OCEAN WAVES AND TIDES
SO416
(2-2-3)
Course Coordinator (2013-2014): CAPT Petruncio
1. Text: None required
2. Prerequisites: SO414
3. Objectives:
a. Understand the two dimensional flow and dispersion relation for surface gravity waves
b. Distinguish between phase and group velocity for surface gravity waves
c. Understand the use of Fourier analysis to identify wave frequencies and their associated
amplitudes and produce wave energy spectra.
d. Understand the concepts of sea and swell and potential impacts on surface ship and
submarine operations.
e. Understand the basic physics of wave shoaling and refraction and describe the types of
breaking waves and their potential impact on Expeditionary Warfare
f. Describe the tractive force and harmonic tidal analysis and interpret tide predictions.
4. Course Content:
a. Airy solution to Laplace’s Equation, deep and shallow water approximations
b. Wave groups and group velocity, orbital motion, pressure, and wave energy
c. Fourier analysis of surface elevation time series
d. Internal and capillary waves
e. Sea and swell forecasting
f. Wave transformation and breaking
g. Rossby and Kelvin waves
h. Tidal theory and harmonic tidal analysis
5. Acquired knowledge – Upon completion the student will be able to:
a. Apply assumptions and boundary conditions to solve the small amplitude wave equation
b. Compute orbital motions, pressure, and propagation of surface gravity waves
c. Conduct Fourier analysis of wave records and analyze wave energy spectra
d. Make simple sea forecasts based on wind speed, fetch, and duration, and simple swell
forecasts using time and distance considerations
e. Explain the basic physics of internal and capillary waves.
f. Use Snell’s Law and the conservation of energy flux to compute wave height and group
speed after shoaling and refraction.
g. Interpret tidal predictions and their limitations.
Updated 31 July 2013