AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF
Ann Louise Vong for the degree of Master of Science in Design and Human
Environment presented June 3, 2011
Title: An Investigation of the Relationship between Fabric Grain Orientation and
Pattern Grading.
Abstract approved:
______________________________________________________________
Kathy K. Mullet
Pattern grading is a method of creating multiple sizes of a garment style. Grading to
extreme sizes is not recommended since the design and drape of the garment can be
distorted. Researchers suggest that customized fit is a solution for creating sizes in a
garment style. However, manufacturers continue to grade patterns because it saves
time and costs less to produce the multiple sizes needed in production. The purpose of
this study was to investigate the relationship between fabric grain orientation and
pattern grading and whether grading changes the drape of the garment. Different fabric
grainlines and grade reference lines were used to determine the influence of traditional
x and y coordinate grading methods on pattern shape and garment drape. A bias grain
was used to determine if traditional x and y coordinate grading methods were
appropriate for bias garments. It was thought that a bias garment would need new
grade rules since the stretch of the bias could affect the overall fit and hang of the
garment.
A parametric model was developed in OptiTex™ software to represent a
Misses size 12 and a dress pattern was then created and fit to this model. The pattern
and model were then graded to a size 6 and a size 22.
From the data, it appears that traditional grading methods and grading to larger
and smaller sizes does not substantially affect the angle to the grainline at the grade
points on the pattern perimeter. The center grade reference line in both the lengthwise
and the bias dress was sufficient to produce additional garments that were similar to
the base size pattern. The fit and drape of the original base size garment had the
greatest influence on the fit and drape of the derived sizes. Therefore, if the garment
grading increments are based on anthropometric data the fit and drape should be
acceptable for individuals that are represented in the size data.
© Copyright by Ann Louise Vong
June 3, 2011
All Rights Reserved
An Investigation of the Relationship between Fabric Grain Orientation
and Pattern Grading
by
Ann Louise Vong
A THESIS
submitted to
Oregon State University
in partial fulfillment of
the requirements for the
degree of
Master of Science
Presented June 3, 2011
Commencement June 2012
Master of Science thesis of Ann Louise Vong
presented on June 3, 2011
APPROVED:
__________________________________________________
Major Professor, representing Design and Human Environment
__________________________________________________
Chair of the Department of Design and Human Environment
__________________________________________________
Dean of the Graduate School
I understand that my thesis will become part of the permanent collection of Oregon
State University libraries. My signature below authorizes release of my thesis to any
reader upon request.
Ann Louise Vong, Author
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I wish to express my sincere thanks to my major professor Dr. Kathy Mullet. She has
been extremely supportive and helpful in my graduate studies. Her knowledge,
encouragement and patience throughout my research kept me focused on completion.
I also sincerely appreciate the time and support of my committee members, Dr. Elaine
Pedersen, Dr. Carmen Steggell and Dr. Christopher Scaffidi.
I wish to thank my family and friends for their steadfast encouragement and
belief in me. A special thanks to my fellow graduate students for their encouragement
and assistance and also to the faculty and staff of the Department of Design and
Human Environment.
I especially want to express my gratitude and appreciation for my husband
Rick, who helped me through it all…I couldn’t have done it without you!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Chapter I Introduction……………………………………………………………...
2 Statement of Purpose……………………………………………………………... 4 Objectives……………………………………………………………………….... 4 Assumptions……………………………………………………………………..
5 Definitions of Terms……………………………………………………………… 5 Chapter II Review of Literature…………………………………………………….. 7 Grain Orientation…………………………………………………………………
7 Fabric Characteristics……………………………………………………………
8 Pattern Grainline Orientation……………………………………………………
16 Bias Garments……………………………………………………………………. 18 Fit………………………………………………………………………………… 21 Pattern Grading…………………………………………………………………... 24 Alternative Reference Lines……………………………………………………… 30 Chapter III Methods……………………………………………………………….. 34 Garment Pattern…………………………………………………………………. 35 Grading System………………………………………………………………….. 36 Grade Guide……………………………………………………………………… 37 Grade Distribution……………………………………………………………….. 38 TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued)
Page
Computer Software……………………………………………………………..
38 Data Analysis…………………………………………………………………….. 50 Chapter IV Results………………………………………………………………… 52 Objective 1………………………………………………………………………
52 Objective 2………………………………………………………………………. 66 Objective 3……………………………………………………………………….. 80 Chapter V Discussion……………………………………………………………… 96 Chapter VI Conclusions………………………………………………………….. 105 Limitations……………………………………………………………………… 107 Recommendations for Further Study…………………………………………… 108 Bibliography……………………………………………………………………… 109 Appendix………………………………………………………………………….
114
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure
Page
Figure 1. OptiTex™ Parametric Models Derived from PS42-70 Grade Guide ........... 42 Figure 2. Vector Outline of Fit Models........................................................................ 43 Figure 3. OptiTex™ Spring View Seam Placement .................................................... 48 Figure 4. Misses size 12 Eva Circumferences ............................................................. 49 Figure 5. Difference in Total Internal Angle between Size 12 and Size 6.................. 55 Figure 6. Difference in Internal Angle between Size 12 and Size 22 .......................... 56 Figure 7. Lengthwise Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference in Angle to Grainline
between Misses Base Size 12 and Graded Size 6 ........................................................ 60 Figure 8. Lengthwise Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference in Angle to Grainline
between Misses Base Size 12 and Graded Size 22. ..................................................... 61 Figure 9. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference in Angle to the Grainline
between Misses Base Size 12 and Graded Size 6 ........................................................ 64 Figure 10. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference between Misses Base Size
12 and Graded Size 22 ................................................................................................. 65 Figure 11. Bias Grain Dress, Grainline Reference, Difference between Total Internal
Angle of Misses Base Size 12 and Graded Size 6 ....................................................... 69 Figure 12. Bias Grain Dress, Grainline Reference, Difference between Total Internal
Angle of Base Size 12 and Size 22 .............................................................................. 70 Figure 13. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference Line and Fixed Angle, Difference
between Misses Base Size 12 and Graded Size 6 ....................................................... 73 Figure 14. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Difference in Total
Internal Angle between Misses Base size 12 and Graded Size 22 ............................... 74 Figure 15. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Difference in Angle
to the Grainline between Misses Base size 12 and Graded Size 6 ............................... 77 Figure 16. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Difference between
Base Size 12 and Size 22 ............................................................................................. 78 Figure 17. Bias Grain Dress Size 6, Nest of Grading Methods ................................... 79 LIST OF FIGURES (Continued)
Figure
Page
Figure 18. Bias Grain Dress, Misses Size 22, Nest of Grading Methods .................... 80
LIST OF TABLES
Table
Page
Table 1 . Total Internal Angle at Pattern Grade Point.................................................. 53 Table 2. Absolute Value of Difference in Total Internal Angle of Pattern Grade Points
...................................................................................................................................... 54 Table 3. Lengthwise Grain Dress, Center Grade Reference, Angle Measurement to the
Lengthwise Grain ......................................................................................................... 57 Table 4.Lengthwise Grain Dress, center grade reference, difference between base size
12, graded size 6 and graded size 22 ............................................................................ 58 Table 5. Bias Grain Dress, Center Grade Reference, Angle to Grainline .................... 62 Table 6. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference between Base Size 12,
Graded Size 6 and Graded Size 22............................................................................... 63 Table 7. Bias Grain Dress, Grainline Reference, Total Internal Angle Measurement. 67 Table 8. Bias grain dress, grainline reference, difference between the total internal
angles of base size 12, size 6 and size 22 ..................................................................... 68 Table 9. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Total Internal Angles ......... 71 Table 10. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Difference in Total Internal
Angle ............................................................................................................................ 72 Table 11. Bias Dress, Center Grade Reference and Fixed Angle, Angle to Grainline 75 Table 12. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angles, Difference between the
Angle to the Grainline between Misses Base size 12, Graded Size 6 and Graded Size
22 .................................................................................................................................. 76 Table 13.Front View: Lengthwise Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference............ 82 Table 14. Front View, Bias Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference ...................... 83 Table 15. Front View: Bias Grain Dress with Grainline Reference ............................ 84 Table 16. Front View: Bias Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference and Fixed
Angle ............................................................................................................................ 85 Table 17. Difference Between the Body and the Garment: Ease ................................. 86 LIST OF TABLES (Continued)
Table
Page
Table 18. Area and Perimeter of Draped Pattern Hemline Contour ............................ 88
Table 19. Hemline Contour: Lengthwise Grain, Center Grade Reference .................. 89 Table 20. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Center Grade Reference .............................. 90 Table 21. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Grainline Reference ................................... 91 Table 22. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Center Grade Reference with Fixed Angle 92 Table 23. Visual Evaluation of Seam Placement ......................................................... 93 Table 24. Visual Differences in Dress Appearance ..................................................... 95 An Investigation of the Relationship between Fabric Grain Orientation
and Pattern Grading
2
Chapter I Introduction
Vintage clothing inspires many of today’s clothing designs. The 2009
retrospective exhibition in Paris of Madeleine Vionnet brought focus once again to an
original designer of bias-cut garments. Madeleine Vionnet was a French designer with
a fashion house in Paris. The house was open from 1912 to 1939, when the business
permanently closed due to the Second World War. Vionnet’s techniques of creating
garments were unique because she designed in three dimensions, draping fabric on a
small wooden form and using the bias grain of the fabric in many of her designs
(Kirke, 1998).
Bias-cut garments are unique in that the angle of the fabric’s grain affects the
drape of the fabric, thus becoming a major design element in the garment. Bias
garments also use the natural diagonal stretch of the woven fabric. This stretch can
accommodate differently shaped bodies by using the shear effect of the perpendicular
fabric yarns to distribute the volume of the fabric over the body. Just as with stretch
fabric garments, bias garments are usually draped on a dress form. Vionnet
understood that it was important to see how the grain of the fabric was incorporated
into the final shape of the garment. Today, bias garments may be draped to achieve
the first pattern, of a master pattern or a base size, but the patterns are still graded to
achieve the multiple sizes needed to sell. Bias garments present an interesting
challenge for grading to other sizes because there is little published information on the
3
best procedures to use when the fabric grainline is not parallel to the center of the
garment.
The traditional way to create additional sizes from a single style is to grade the
master pattern or base size. Pattern grading is the manipulation of the two
dimensional pattern or flat pattern into multiple sizes. This is done for speed and
simplicity. Grading is the process of systematically increasing and decreasing the size
of a master pattern to create a range of sizes (Mullet, Moore, & Young, 2009).
Traditional grading practices distribute the changes in body dimension to
points on the pattern perimeter that are called cardinal points or grade points. Grade
points relate to individual body measurements or size specifications. Grading is also
an additive process; adjacent sizes are larger and smaller. Often when grading, a large
range of sizes are derived from a single pattern. Patterns extended beyond more than
two sizes from the base size may lose the visual effect presented in the base size (Bye
& DeLong, 1994). In apparel production designs may be graded to extreme sizes. To
save time and money a base size pattern may be graded in a large range such as from
size 6 to size 22. After grading the pattern each pattern size is checked to make sure
that the seamlines that sew together are the same length.
The influence of the fabric grain on the outcome of the graded pattern is of
interest because the grain is associated with the drape of woven fabric, and the drape
of the fabric is a component of fit. Moore (1992) found that "Fabric grain alignment is
one of the most important factors to consider when analyzing a garment's fit and
drape" (p. 31). A previous study by Orzada (2001) concluded that “A tilt angle of 4°
4
appears to be the maximum level of tilt before a significant effect on shearing
properties is observed, but this is dependent on fabric" (p.62). It is difficult to
measure the change in the shape and fit of a garment, but the angle at the grade points
of a graded pattern can be measured to assess the change in the grainline angle as it
relates to the lengthwise grain and to the maximum stretch of the bias grain. If the
grainline angle is affected by grading then the fit will be compromised.
Statement of Purpose
The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between fabric grain
orientation and pattern grading.
Objectives
The following objectives were developed to measure the influence of different fabric
grains when garments are graded to larger and smaller sizes.
Objective 1. To measure variation of the grain angle at defined grade points from the
Misses base size 12 to size 6 and size 22 in relation to the fabric grain: when the center
of the garment is on the lengthwise grain and when the center of the garment is on the
bias grain.
Objective 2. To evaluate the use of alternative grading methods in relation to fabric
grain when grading from the Misses base size 12 to size 6 and size 22.
Objective 3. To evaluate the changes in a garment drape and fit when a Misses base
size 12 garment is graded to size 6 and size 22.
5
Assumptions
1. Fabric properties and garments can be simulated by OptiTex™ 3D software.
2. The body beneath the garment is changing the same amount as the pattern is
changing. (see the sizing chart based on the PS42-70 grade guide in the
Appendix)
3. The grading is representing the changes of the body to the larger and smaller
sizes
4. Fit is determined correctly on static models.
Definitions of Terms
Base Size: the master pattern that is used as the reference size when grading.
Drape: the way that a fabric hangs or falls over a three dimensional form.
Extreme Sizes: pattern graded more than two sizes from the base pattern.
Grade Points: the points on the pattern that are used as landmarks for dimensional
change on the outer perimeter of the pattern. Grade points also are called cardinal
points (Mullet et al., 2009, p. 14).
Grade reference line: an orientation at the grade point that determines the x and y
coordinate direction. This is usually parallel to the grainline symbol but some patterns
may use alternate grade reference lines, or axes, that are not parallel to the grainline
(Mullet et al., 2009, p. 85).
6
Grading or Pattern Grading: the process of systematically increasing and decreasing
the size of a master pattern to create a range of sizes (Mullet et al., 2009, p. 1).
Grain: orientation of yarn in a woven fabric.
Grainline: a line symbol, usually an arrow, representing the orientation of a pattern
piece parallel to the lengthwise grain and selvage edge on a woven fabric.
Master pattern: perfected for fit and then used as a basis for other sizes.
Nodes: a drape measurement tool, the shape and position of folds at the hemline can
help interpret the drape of the fabric.
Parametric Model: three dimensional computer generated representation of a human
body. The parametric model changes with input of measurements that correspond to
important length or circumference dimensions needed for apparel design (bust
circumference and waist height). The parametric model sometimes is called an avatar.
(OptiTex™, 2010).
Shear: the yarn rotation over crossover points on warp and the weft yarns.
Tilt: the change in angle measured in degrees from the straight of grain.
7
Chapter II Review of Literature
This review of literature discusses fabric grain in relation to woven flat textiles,
the characteristics of fabric and the grainline in a garment. Grading is discussed in
relation to the methods process which includes the selection of a grading system based
on size specifications and the desired size range. Bias garments are reviewed for
unique design attributes and special considerations needed when using the bias grain.
Garments with good fit are the ultimate goal when grading; factors that influence fit
and perception of fit will be discussed.
Grain Orientation
Grain refers to the orientation of the yarn within a fabric. There are three basic
grains to a woven fabric: lengthwise, crosswise, and bias. The lengthwise grain is
parallel to the selvage edge and the warp yarns in the fabric. The lengthwise grain
usually has less stretch due to a higher twist in the yarn which provides the strength to
the warp yarn that is needed to maintain the tension on the loom. The crosswise grain
is perpendicular to the selvage edge. The crosswise grain is parallel to the weft yarn,
also called filling yarns. The crosswise grain has more stretch than the lengthwise
grain in woven fabrics. The bias grain has two orientations, in that bias grain is at a 45
degree angle to both the lengthwise and crosswise grain. This true bias at 45 degrees
from the crosswise and lengthwise grain has the most stretch in a woven fabric
(Kadolph & Langford, 2002).
Defects in the manufacturing process such as bow and skew may also affect
the grain. Bow occurs when the filling yarn is not perpendicular to the selvage edge
8
across the fabric. The center of the fabric sags as it travels from selvage edge to
selvage edge. Skew occurs when the filling yarn is not perpendicular to the selvages
as it crosses the fabric from one selvage edge to the other. With fabric skew the filling
yarn is tilted at an angle other than 90 degrees to the warp yarn. These errors in
production cause the fabric to be ‘off grain’. Garments which are ‘off grain’ often
exhibit flaws in how the garment hangs or drapes. The most common defect is that
seams twist or rotate from perpendicular to the body to falling or rotating toward the
front or back of the garment (Kadolph & Langford, 2002, p. 177).
Fabric Characteristics
Some important aspects of fabric that are considered in garment design are the
fabric’s characteristics, the orientation of the fabric grain, and seam placement. These
factors affect the appearance of the garment.
The foundation of any garment is the textile from which it is created. Fabric
selection is one of the first steps in the design process. “The visual appearance of any
garment is directly affected by the characteristics of the fabric in which it is made”
(Aldrich & Aldrich, 2007, p. 20).
Fabrics often are described by fiber content and weave structure, but there are
other important aspects of fabric that are described by the fabric properties. Textile
properties describe the construction of the textile through the manufacturing process
from fiber to fabric. Each textile has physical properties that include: fiber content,
yarn size, yarn twist, yarn count, weight, weave structure, and the dye and finish
processes. Woven textiles are characterized by flat loom construction and yarns that
9
are interlaced in a grid like arrangement with warp yarn and weft yarns at 90 degree
angles (Kadolph & Langford, 2002, p. 182).
Fabric properties are expressed in fabric as measurable characteristics that
can be used to predict the behavior of the fabric. Methods for determining the hand or
handle of fabric were developed to predict processing ease of the fabric, tailorability,
and appearance during wear (Hunter & Fan, 2004). These same fabric tests can be
used to predict fabric drape. Fabric drape is related to the weight of the fabric, its
stiffness and bending rigidity, and its shear resistance (May-Plumlee, Eischen, Bruner,
Pandurangan, & Kenkare, 2002). Five measurements that are used to predict fabric
drape behavior will be discussed: drape, bending length, shear, weight, and thickness.
Fabric drape describes the way that a fabric hangs or falls over a three
dimensional form. The first assessment of fabric drape is a simple visual assessment.
"Fabric drape is an important element in a garments overall aesthetic appearance and
is one of the most important properties of interest to fabric apparel buyers” (Orzada,
Moore, & Collier, 1997, p.272).
The goal when measuring fabric drape characteristics is predicting the
behavior of the fabric when it placed on a three dimensional form. Fabric drape
“involves three dimensional double curvature deformation” (Hunter & Fan, 2004, p.
115). There are two basic categories for the measure of fabric drape: subjective
measurement or objective measurement.
10
Subjective measurements of fabric drape include a personal view as part of the
measurement assessment; this may be the evaluation of a trained expert or simply the
preference of a customer when viewing a fabric or garment (Hu, 2004).
Objective measurements are based on mathematical formulas. The
measurements which describe the deformation in fabric when suspended have been
studied extensively. There is not a single test that can predict or describe the behavior
of fabric; a combination of tests gives better predictive values (Hu, 2004).
Objective measurement devices include drapemeters which are used to
measure drape in three dimensions. A type of drapemeter described by Aldrich and
Aldrich (2007) is a simple angled template that measures the collapse of the fabric
when suspended from one edge. Chu, in 1950,was one of the first that studied three
dimensional drape and measured drape using a drape coefficient expressed as a
percentage (as cited in Hunter & Fan, 2004, p. 115 ). Cusick refined the test method
and defined the drape coefficient as DC%=W¹/W² x 100, where W¹ is the weight of a
template paper and W² is the weight of the fabric shadow that is traced and cut from
the same template paper (as cited in Hunter & Fan, 2004, p. 115). The drapemeter
measures the difference between a flat template of a specified diameter and the
shadow of a suspended fabric of the same dimensions suspended by a smaller
template. The same ratio can be found using the area of the shadow as compared to
the total area of the template. Collier (1991) adapted the concept to create a drape
tester that uses photovoltaic cells to measure the amount of light that is blocked by a
fabric specimen to calculate the drape coefficient. Another type of drapemeter
11
measures the force needed “to pull a circular sample at a constant speed through a
ring, the force being termed the drape resistance” (Hunter & Fan, 2004, p. 117).
The drape coefficient was not enough to predict the drape of a fabric. Node
analysis was developed as another method of measuring drape. Nodes analysis
describes the shape of the folds created during the drape of the fabric. The
measurement of nodes can include the number of nodes created, the node depth, node
location, node shape and symmetry (May-Plumlee et al., 2002; Kenkare & MayPlumlee, 2005).
Bending length is an important fabric characteristic that influences fabric
drape. Bending length describes the rigidity of the fabric. Bending length is measured
as the distance under which a rectangle of fabric can support its own weight before
reaching a predetermined angle. The standard angle measured is 41.5 degrees. The
stiffer the fabric the longer the bending length will be. This test, first described by
Pierce in 1930, is called the Pierce Cantilever test. It measures the flexural rigidity of
fabric using the bending length, fabric weight, and thickness (as cited in Kenkare &
May-Plumlee, 2005). The cantilever test is the method used in the Shirley Stiffness
Tester instrument. The Shirley Stiffness Tester is a commercial instrument that
measures two dimensional fabric bending (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005).
Fabric weight and fabric thickness are both factors in fabric drape. Collier
(1991) found that weight and thickness measurements are correlated to, but do not
explain, drape behavior. Weight is calculated as grams per meter squared of fabric.
12
The weight has an influence on drape but the complex nature of fabric makes the
relationship indirect (Hu, 2004).
There are two types of thickness according to Aldrich and Aldrich (2007):
visual thickness and technical thickness. Visual thickness is a subjective measurement
that is based on the appearance of the fabric. Technical thickness is measured by
compression under two loads and also is called the thickness of the surface layer. The
fabric sample is compressed in the lateral direction and the percentage reduction in
fabric thickness is calculated (Hunter & Fan, 2004; Hu, 2004).
Shear is the deformation of the warp and weft yarns from perpendicular
interlacing. Shear hysteresis describes the ability to rebound to the original orientation.
A simple shear measurement is a vertical measurement of the amount of trellising of
the yarn in the fabric before the fabric buckles to produce wrinkles on the surface of
the cloth (Aldrich & Aldrich, 2007).
Two systems used extensively for fabric testing in the apparel industry are the
Kawabata Evaluation System for fabric (KES-f) and the Fabric Assurance by Simple
Testing System (FAST). The systems use measuring instruments that produce a
digital output. The systems add speed to the process while retaining reliable and
repeatable output.
The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was developed by Dr. S. Kawabata in
the 1970s to standardize the evaluation of the hand of fabric; previous to that time, the
measure was subjective. KES is used to measure fabric tensile, bending, surface,
shear, and compression properties as well as thickness and weight. There are four
13
instruments in the Kawabata Evaluation System for fabrics: the tensile and shear test
(KES-FB1), bending tester (KES-FB2), compression tester (KES-FB3), and surface
tester( KES-FB4), (Hunter & Fan, 2004).
Hu (2004) describes drape from fabric structure and mechanics perspective. Hu
found that the KES provides so much data that “a technique of extracting information
from massive amounts of data of this type is needed to explain the main features of the
relationship hidden or implied in the data and charts” (p. 9) The KES provides 16
parameters obtained from a fabric sample. The fiber, twist, yarn, and weave all
contribute to the complexity of fabric. The KES is used due to its high precision and
reproducibility. KES also gives a means to communicate information reliably between
vendors.
Collier (1991) used the Drape Tester, KES Tensile and Shear Tester, KES Pure
Bending Tester, and the Cantilever Test to study the relationship between drape and
fabric mechanical properties. Collier found that shear hysteresis and bending
resistance were closely associated with predicted fabric drape. There were higher
correlations with drape and shear hysteresis than with other shear values such as shear
angles or shear modulus. (Shear angles are the angle at the intersection of the warp
and weft yarns). (Shear modulus is the measurement of shear strain). Collier also used
subjective testing with evaluators judging the drapeability of 17 fabrics. Collier found
that subjective measurements were correlated significantly (p<.001) with drape values
measured on the Drape Tester (p. 51).
14
The Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system was developed by
Csiro in Australia as method of predicting the tailorability of wool products. The
FAST system also called SiroFAST, was developed as an inexpensive alternative to
the KES system. The FAST focuses on fabric properties important to garment
manufacturers and is used to communicate specifications between fabric producers,
finishers, and garment makers (Hu, 2004).
The FAST system is composed of three instruments and a test method: a
compression meter that measures fabric thickness (FAST-1), a bending meter which
measures the bending rigidity of the fabric using the cantilever principle with a
photocell for determining the edge of the fabric (FAST-2), and an extension meter
(FAST-3), simulates three different loads on the warp and weft threads. The
extensibility of the fabric can be measured at any angle but “In practice, it is normal to
measure the extensibility in only the warp, weft and bias directions” (Hu, 2004, p. 30).
Research in fabric behavior is increasingly driven by computer simulation. The
mechanics of fabrics are very complex. An approach to understanding the movement
of fabric is found using mathematical algorithms. The simulation of drape is used in
movie animation and computer games and is an increasing focus in online retail
display of clothing. The measurement of drape also includes dynamic drape (the
measurement of the fabric drape in motion) (Magnenat-Thalmann, 2010).
.
In drape testing, the fabric is often tested on pedestals, and the length is fixed
when determining drape (Collier, 1991; Hu 2004). In a visual test performed by
Aldrich and Aldrich (2007), three fabrics in circular shapes were mounted on dress
15
forms at three different scales and four different lengths. A simple visual analysis
shows that the same fabric will drape differently depending on the radius of the
circular form.
Variation in drape appearance also occurs in the same sample when a drape
test is repeated. The nodes and folds in the sample are not replicated in subsequent
test with the same fabric and the same test conditions (May-Plumlee et al., 2005).
Naujokaityte, Stazdiene, and Domsiene (2008) used a bias extension method
to look at shear deformation and buckling in fabrics with different thickness.
Naujokaityte et al. (2008) used a visual analysis technique which used light to
illuminate the samples amplifying the contrast in the wrinkles produced when a
critical shear angle was reached and buckling occurred. They confirmed that there are
three distinct zones in a bias stretched woven fabric: a square or hexagonal middle part
where full shear (trellis deformation) occurs (Zone A), a triangular zone experiences
half the shear as A (Zone B), and the transitional region of deformation (Zone C). The
length of material sample must be at least twice its width in order for three regions of
deformations to exist. The comparative width and length of a pattern piece will
determine the amount of bias shear. It is important to recognize that the wider the
pattern piece the more of the fabric will be in Zone A where full shear is occurring. As
bias garments are graded to different sizes, the span of fabric changes the amount of
bias stretch available in the garment.
Vaitkeviciene and Masteikaite (2006) study on evaluation of drape behavior
considered fabric characteristics, garment construction and seams on a flared skirt and
16
produced a mathematical model. They found that differences in the number of folds
formed were different depending on the orientation of the fabric grain. All fabrics
deform due to bending of yards due to gravity forces. Bias directions have additional
deformation due to the shear of yarns. The shape of the folds at the bottom of the
samples were 'sharper' in the bias direction than the samples cut in the warp or weft
direction. The garment symmetry was influenced if the bias directions on the front and
back of the garment were at the same or opposite bias directions (p. 77).
Seams in a garment may change the drape of the fabric. Jevšnik and ŽuničLojen (2007) looked at the seam effect on drape parameters and bending rigidity in
four woven fabrics. Seams were sewn in the warp, weft, and bias direction of a
circular sample and prepared for testing on a “Cusik Drape meter with a video camera
and the Drape Analyser programme package” (p. 552). They found that the drape
coefficient was higher on samples with seams but supposed that is could be the result
of greater mass concentration in the seam area. The number of folds on the samples
with seams was lower than samples without seams. Different numbers of folds were
seen in different fabrics. The number of folds and drape coefficient was not always
the same in repeated tests.
Pattern Grainline Orientation
Grainline orientation refers to the direction of the lengthwise grain symbol on
the pattern piece. All pattern pieces contain a grainline symbol as information to
communicate the desired placement upon the fabric for cutting (Cole & Czachor,
2009, p. 21).. The symbol is often a line or arrow that spans the interior of the pattern
17
piece. The grainline represents the lengthwise grain on a woven fabric as parallel to
the warp yarns This lengthwise grainline becomes a reference line for the crosswise
grain at 90 degrees, and the bias grains at +45 degrees and -45 degrees. Bias
orientation from the grainline is an important consideration because it represents the
maximum shear distortion in a woven fabric. When a garment is cut on the bias angle,
the drape of the fabric is emphasized.
It is important to align the pattern grainline to the lengthwise grain in order to
produce a garment consistent with the designer’s intent. Solinger (1988) in the
Apparel Manufactures Handbook explains the different stresses on the yarn depending
on the orientation of the grainline. The gravitational pull is dependent on the
orientation of the pattern piece in relationship to the warp and filling yarn.
Moore (1992) suggests that research is needed to determine the acceptable use of
grainline rotation for “specific garments and fabrics without negatively affecting
drape” (p. 34).
The quality of a garment can be affected when the grain alignment is not
correct. Orzada, Moore, and Collier (1997) examined the relationship between fabric
drape and grain alignment. The study was a follow up to a previous survey by Orzada
and Moore that requested information from apparel manufacturers on the amount of
tilt that was allowed on markers to improve efficiency. The tendency of garments cut
off-grain is to pull toward the lengthwise grain position; this can affect the drape of the
garment. Orzada et al. (1997) used a half circle cut at different degrees of tilt to test
the effect of grain alignment on drape. The fabric specimens for testing drape were
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cut at the same tilt angles as samples tested on the Kawabata Shear tester. Fabric
specimens are usually cut on the straight of grain for testing. Orzada et al. (1997)
found that there was no consistent relationship between the tilt angle and the drape
values, rather it was dependent on the fabric. The study did find that as the tilt amount
increased, the symmetry of the garment changed, and the tilt did affect the folds which
formed as the garment draped.
Orzada (2001) also tested tilt angles and drape in nineteen fabrics that were
selected to represented different fiber contents, yarn counts, weight, and weaves.
Two KES instruments were used to test the fabrics drape properties: the KES Bending
Tester and the KES F Shear Tester. Six tilt angles between zero degrees and ten
degrees were produced by tilting the sample specimen pattern on a marker. Increased
tilt resulted in higher shear values, with an increase in shear values as tilt angle
increased. “A tilt angle of 4° appears to be the maximum level of tilt before a
significant effect on shearing properties is observed, but this is dependent on fabric”
(p. 62).
Bias Garments
The purposeful tilt of the grain is used in bias garments. Bias garments are
defined by the use of the fabric grain to manipulate the drape of the silhouette.
Madeleine Vionnet is the designer credited for presenting this silhouette that defined
the 1930s. DeLong and Peterson (2004) analyzed 160 evening gowns from the 1930s
in a university collection. One of the identifying characteristics used to describe the
19
garments in the study was the bias cut. Dresses cut on the bias were represented
throughout the period studied: 1929-1939.
Kirke (1998) in her book about Vionnet writes about the ‘textile revolution’
that made higher twist yarns available for crepe fabric. Larger dye vats made it
possible to dye finished fabric rather than yarn. This allowed yarn to remain tightly
twisted. A combination of S-twist and Z-twist yarn gave an elastic quality to crepe
weave fabric. The bias grain of crepe fabric was balanced by the alternate twist of the
warp and weft yarns. Kirke (1998) also writes about bias grain as not a grain at all.
There is no yarn in the bias direction, it is only airspace. It is the lack of support that
causes the distortion. Vionnet used different orientations of the bias to control the
drape. Kirke (1998) includes Vionnet patterns in her book, and pattern 13 (p. 87)
shows that the grain relationship between the front and back are in a spiraling
orientation. Thus, if you look at the front and back pattern pieces laid flat next to each
other, the grainline runs the same direction on both pattern pieces, spiraling the grain
around the body. In another pattern 28 (p.163), the grain is the opposite on the front
and back garment pieces.
Bryant (1993) looked at the methods Vionnet used to create shape in garments,
by examining photographs, original toiles (prototypes), and garments. Bryant found
that Vionnet would slash the fabric to manipulate the grain, sometimes inserting
gussets or other wedge shaped pattern pieces. In some garments partial bias was used
rather than true bias. The straight of grain would be used as a stabilizing force at
20
hemlines or necklines. Vionnet is also credited with creating the bias cut cowl
neckline which was also represented in the garments studied.
Technique for creating bias garments is explained by Armstrong (2009) who
used a combination method of draping on a dress from and the flat pattern method
when describing a procedure for patterning a bias garment. Armstrong recommends a
test-fit of all garments cut on the bias to check for problems created by bias stretch.
Armstrong describes two methods to correct a garment cut on bias grain. Method I
was used to cut the design and facilitate the bias stretch to determine where to make
corrections. The pattern was made for the dress form using the flat pattern method; a
tested block is used as the basis for the design. The fabric was cut and the original
seamline above the hip was stitched or pinned then was placed on the model dress
form. The hems were weighted to allow the fabric to stretch. The fabric was then fit to
the model, and new seams were marked with chalk and transferred to the paper
pattern. A second fit was recommended from the adjusted pattern.
Method II was described as a method to determine the stretch of the fabric
before the pattern was completed and the pattern was adjusted according to the fabric
stretch. In the example given, the hip arc measurement was calculated for an all-inone dress with a center front seam. The fabric was folded on true bias, and the distance
of the hip arc measurement was marked with pins on the fabric. The fabric was then
stretched keeping the fabric smooth. The distance the fabric stretched beyond the hip
arc measurement was recorded, and the amount was removed from the center of the
pattern to offset the bias stretch (Armstrong, 2009).
21
Method II is similar to the method used to calculate the stretch factor in knit
fabrics. A ruler is used to calculate the percent stretch that compares the relaxed
fabric with the extended stretched fabric. As with knits, the bias cut can add ease to a
garment, but there is still a limit to how far the bias can stretch.
Knowles (2005) also considers bias stretch when designing garments using the
flat pattern method. Knowles recommends stretching the fabric while pinned to the
model and comparing the width at the hip to the pattern measurement across the hip,
the difference being the amount the bias needs to stretch for the seams to hang
smoothly. Knowles also acknowledges that the layout of the pattern will influence the
drape of the garment, and a spiraling grain will sew differently than mitered grain
orientation at the side seams. The amount of stretch may vary from the right and left
sides of the garment because of differing tensions in the warp and weft grain. To work
with bias stretch in garments requires study of the fabric grain as it is draped on the
body.
Fit
Fit is an expected quality in clothing that is related to sizing. Ready to wear
clothing is mass produced, and individual variation makes perfect fit difficult. The
apparel production process is concerned with fitting as many people as possible with
as few sizes as are necessary. Cooklin (1991) states that “From an industrial and
commercial point of view, an effective sizing system must cover the largest number of
women with the smallest number of sizes. Therefore, some practical compromises are
22
necessary to order to maintain a viable balance between the degree of fitting quality
and price levels” (p. 19).
The majority of ready to wear clothing is made by the flat pattern method.
The flat pattern method is the two-dimensional representation of a three dimensional
garment. The pattern of a previous season’s successful garment may be altered with
new design lines or new details, but the basic pattern or block is little changed. While
the garment pattern may be reused, the fabric is likely to change. This is why new
styles that are selected for production are sewn into sample garments. The fit of the
garment must be re-evaluated when the fabric is changed. The different characteristics
of fabric that influence fabric drape also influence the fit of a garment (Burns &
Bryant, 2007).
The grainline represents the angle of the fabric as it drapes over the body.
“Experts check the positioning of the grainline when judging the fit of a garment”
(Farmer, 1982, p. 4). Fit is determined by examining the garment on the three
dimensional form. When a garment is designed and cut so the fabric grain is oriented
with the grainline parallel to center front, the correct fit includes a crosswise grain that
is horizontal at the bust and hips and parallel to the floor. Vertical seams, such as side
seams, are perpendicular to the floor. Shoulder seams are on the top and middle of the
shoulder (Minott, 1991; Moore, 1992).
Wrinkle charts are often used to determine where a garment does not fit
correctly. Poor fit is usually an incorrect relationship between any back and front
length or width. The garment should lay smoothly on the body without tension strain
23
or gaps caused by excess fabric (Minott, 1991). Yu (2004) states that fit is the most
important element to customers in clothing appearance and that definitions of fit may
vary over time. The five factors of good fit: according to Erwin, Kinchen, and Peters,
(1979, as cited in Brown and Rice, 2000) are ease, line grain, balance, and set. Ease
provides comfort and movement in a garment. Line follows the silhouette and
circumference. The grain runs horizontally at bust/chest and at the hip level and is
usually the crossgrain of the fabric. The center front and center back are parallel to the
lengthwise grain. Balance is the garment symmetry from side to side and front to
back. Set describes a smooth garment with no wrinkles (pp. 156-158).
McKinney (2007) developed a model to look at fit as the relationship of the
human body to the garment. Fit evaluation with objective measurements may involve
measuring the volume of space between the body and the garment. Subjective
measure has two directions: one is an observer’s perception of the garment fit; the
other is the wearer’s perception of how the garment fits. McKinney also considers the
division between the wearer’s perception of physiological fit and psychological fit.
Physiological fit refers to the wearer’s perception of the space of the body in the
garment and physical comfort. Psychological fit is the wearer’s satisfaction or
dissatisfaction with the fit.
The wearer’s satisfaction with fit is individual to a person and the garment’s
sizing. Ashdown and Dunne (2006) used anthropometric data obtained by body
scanning to study sizing systems. Sizing systems focus on fit by defining the body
measurements representing a majority of consumers. If consumers are included in the
24
sizing system then consumers should find clothes that satisfy their fit preferences.
Ashdown and Dunne research has found that ‘perception of fit’ is a very important
aspect of fit that is difficult to predict by body measurements.
Ashdown and Loker (2010) looked at sizing from the point of view of an
apparel firm. The target market of an individual apparel company can be analyzed to
find a sizing system that is based on the desired consumer’s measurements. Consumer
based models may help with consumer satisfaction and also distinguish differences
between apparel companies. A factor in apparel sizing is shape as well as size. Most
sizing is still based on an hourglass figure though it does not represent a high portion
of the population. The researchers propose using a targeted sizing system to add shape
variables to a smaller consumer population. New shopping models may be needed to
accommodate the larger inventories needed for expanded choices. Catalog and online
venues are suggested as means to provide more choices based on body type and fit
preferences. The communication of sizing becomes an important issue. Virtual try on
with avatars that can be changed to different body shapes is one direction. One issue
that is represented in the conceptual model presented in the article is the need to
design for multiple materials. The Mass-customized target market sizing system could
give consumers the option to choose fabrics, colors, and style features for specific
garments.
Pattern Grading
The use of pattern grading to make multiple sizes is less costly than making an
individual pattern for each size garment. The assumption and expectation when using
25
grading to make multiple sizes from a single pattern, is that the grade rules used in
sizing the pattern genuinely reflect the changes in body dimensions between sizes .
The perimeter of a pattern is composed of points that form the shape of a
garment piece. Current pattern grading practice uses the two dimensional space of a
Cartesian plane to manage the dimensional changes through movement in the x and y
axes. In traditional grade methods these points are moved horizontally (x coordinates)
or vertically (y coordinates) to create a difference in length and width between sizes
(Doyle & Rodgers, 2003) .
Kidwell (2004) found that that the search for a simple system to make multiple
sizes of a garment was documented in the patent systems in the United States and
Europe. The availability of the sewing machine created a demand for drafting systems
and measuring devices in the 19th century. Kidwell found the system patented by
Aaron A. Tentler as the earliest documented system “specifically designed for cutting
dresses was a proportional method using a perforated tool” (p. 21). The patent
information, dated 1841, included three drawings submitted by Tentler, two which
show bodice patterns with a line of numbers radiating from the pattern edge at cardinal
points.
The Science of Grading (1916) was written by Harry Simons to document the
procedures used in grading men’s clothing patterns. The method of grading patterns
displayed in the book was not based on an axis system that used a plane with x and y
coordinates. A static point on the garment was selected and guidelines were drawn
from the point through a grade point. This line was then used to place the grade points
26
of adjacent sizes. The grading method demonstrated is sometimes referred to as radial
grading.
The US Patent Office records shows that Saul Aster (1937) was granted a
patent for a grading machine that used an elastic mat to stretch the pattern in measured
increments. The stretched pattern could then be traced onto paper. This device was
presented as a solution to the problem of maintaining curved lines when grading. Aster
wrote about two other methods in the patent application that used the connection of
points to form a new size. The first was the chart method for proportional grading
which was the ‘present system’ which was described as “the grader traces the master
pattern on paper and extends lines beyond the borders of the said tracing at different
points from some central point of the tracing, marking off as many fractions of an inch
as the largest desired pattern will require”( p. 5). The second method was termed the
‘shoving method.’ This method was described as follows: “by putting the master
pattern directly on the pattern paper, marking one side and marking off from the
pattern to a point for the next size. He shoves the pattern on the paper connecting
different points until he has marked a new size” (Aster, 1937, p. 6).
The use of the x and y coordinate system predates computer grading as
evidenced by the patent of the Dario Grad-O-meter in 1952. This pattern machine was
a drafting instrument that could be moved in a controlled manner. The device moved
the master pattern “by means independently movable in two mutually perpendicular
directions parallel to the base with means for indicating and controlling the degree of
motion in these two perpendicular directions so as to move the pattern in any direction
27
to the design desired” (Maiocchi, 1952, p. 4). This x and y movement system was
easily adapted to computer systems used to grade garments.
The grading machines move the perimeter of the pattern. A grading system
determines the increments of the movement. A grading system is developed to
determine sizing specifications. The grading system is based on anthropometric data
collected or compiled from a population or target market. The differences between
sizes are determined. The difference is then distributed to the area of the body that
changes between sizes. A grading system determines the increments between sizes.
Grading to a larger or smaller size is performed by calculating the desired difference
between the same grade point on subsequent sizes. The increments are used to
develop grade guides and grade rules. Grade rules are written for specific points on the
body called cardinal points or grade points (Mullet et al., 2009, p. 14).
When grading, the ‘essence’ of a garment should be maintained through all
sizes (Solinger, 1988). Doyle and Rodgers (2003) state the importance of keeping the
curves of the base pattern consistent: “If the grader changes the shape of the curve, the
fit of the garment changes” (p. 6). Murphey (1993) looked at the influence of grading
on bodice fit and found that the "Maintenance of fit should be technologically possible
but may not be practical for mass marketed ready-to-wear"(p. 147).
The grainline relative to a patterns edge will change during the grade to
another size whenever the lines defining the outer edge are not parallel to the base
pattern. To keep all the lines parallel to the base size, one would have to scale the
pattern. The pattern would grow the same amount in both height and width and all
28
proportions would remain the same, including all orientations to the grainline. This is
not how patterns are graded because it does not reflect the proportion of human
bodies. Height does not increase at the same rate as circumference and circumferences
change at different rates. The hip circumference and the neck circumference have
different proportional changes between sizes.
Grading is a method of creating new sizes, and grade differences may not be
considered in relationship to fit. Grading is an expedited method used to create readyto-wear sizes in a quick cost efficient manner. Mullet et al. (2009) recommend not
grading more than two sizes from the base size. Bye and DeLong (1994) state that
patterns derived from more than two sizes from the base size may lose the visual effect
presented in the base size.
Karlsson (1986) graded three dress designs with horizontal, vertical, and
diagonal lines to study the visual impact of grading. Karlsson suggested that the
design with vertical princess seams had less visual distortion due to the ability to
distribute the grade across the pattern pieces. The study also found that proportion
changes were an important factor in visual analysis.
Schofield and Labat (2005a) looked at the relationship between sizing systems
and grading. They identified three criteria that are important for establishing grade
rules. The first criteria was that measurements on the body need to correspond to the x
and y axis that is used in grading garments. A vertical measurement corresponds to the
lengthwise grain, and a horizontal measurement corresponds to the crosswise grain.
The second criterion was that a body measurement cannot span two cardinal points.
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The study recommends additional measurements to correspond to grade rules. The
third criterion is that body landmarks must be used for measurement. The
anthropometric measurements from PS42-70 were compared to grade rules published
by Price and Zamkoff. The study determined that historic grading practices took
precedent over anthropometric data when grade rules were written.
Schofield and LaBat, (2005b) write that the “primary purpose of grading is the
creation of garments that fit each size the way the base size fits the base size model”
(p. 148). They also recommend an evaluation of the angles and arcs of seamlines and
an evaluation of the garment on a fit model for all sizes. Regression analysis was used
with the anthropometric measurements of 1988 Anthropometric survey of US Army
Women (ANSUR) to test grading assumptions and compared two methods of derived
grade rules. The two methods identified are incremental grade rules and proportional
grade rules. Incremental grade rules have a constant value in all size ranges, such as
1/4 inch per size. Proportional grade rules are in proportion to the base measurement
the example given was 1/4 inch per bust inch across all sizes.
Schofield and LaBat (2005b) found that complex grade rules better represent
the changes in the body. Complex grade rules take into account the differences in
growth between the front and back of the body. Simplified grade rules use the same
increments for the front and back of the body. Simple grade rules used in the
traditional grading system introduced differences that did not fit the ANSUR
measurements. One example of a simplified grade rule given was an increase in the
front and back bust arcs of the same amount would add too much width to the back to
30
accommodate the change in the front. The horizontal shoulder point grade rule that
increased too much for larger sizes was another example of simplified grade rules that
do not reflect the ANSUR data.
Bye, LaBat, McKinney and Kim (2008) used a close fitting sheath dress to
compare traditionally graded patterns to fit –to-shape patterns. Participants were
selected that represented standard sizes. The sheath dresses were altered to fit the
individual, and the difference between the altered dress and the traditionally graded
pattern was analyzed. The researchers confirmed that the base size should be graded
no more than two sizes before another fit model is needed. Personal variation from
standards is accepted as a part of the grading process. The closer the individual to the
fit model standard the fewer alterations are needed.
Alternative Reference Lines
The shape of the pattern piece is distorted when it is converted to a three
dimensional form. This is the intent as fabric is moldable, unlike a paper pattern.
Taylor and Shoben (1984), Cooklin (1990), and Mullet et al., (2009) consider alternate
grade axes or alternative reference lines for some garments. Alternate grade axes are
used when simple x and y axis orientation would distort the shape of the pattern. One
of the basic premises of flat pattern is that the change in the perimeter of the pattern
through rotation or movement of darts does not change the fit of the garment. Cooklin
(1991) advises applying a grade that reflects the dart position in a ‘master pattern’ that
relates to the position of the seam in the garment to keep the grade accurate. The basic
front bodice has bust shaping in a single dart in the shoulder position. In other master
31
patterns the bust shaping is at the neckline or waistline, and the x axis pivots to
accommodate the movement of the dart. This becomes an alternative grade axis that is
used for grading a portion of the garment. In both Cooklin (1991) and Taylor and
Shoben (1984) this alternative grade axis is then used for the shoulder/armscye point
when the dart has been rotated from the shoulder position.
Taylor and Shoben (1984) stress that when grading the armhole shape, “that
the angles at the cardinal point on the pattern must remain the same on all sizes” (p.
70). Shoben and Taylor (2004) also emphasize “the importance of marking
construction lines on to the production pattern as they provide a guide to original darts
and tracks” (p. 66). Each cardinal point is then graded according to the original
construction line.
Mullet et al. (2009) recommend alternative grade reference lines when “a style
line on the pattern piece forms an acute angle to the grade reference line (x axis)” or
when grading a curve that would be distorted by using the original axes (p. 92).
Another consideration for the use of an alternative grade reference line is the
orientation of the pattern section in relation to the position on the body. A kimono
sleeve which is cut in one with the bodice was given as an example of where an
alternate axis is used to maintain the shape of the sleeve as it is graded.
The cowl neckline is a pattern example that is included in both flat pattern
textbooks (Gebbia, 1987; Armstrong, 2009) and grading textbooks (Price & Zamkoff,
1996; Taylor & Shoben, 1984; Mullet et al., 2009). The cowl neckline is designed to
use the bias grain to help form the shape of the neckline. There is no consistent
32
method between the authors; the textbooks demonstrate varying techniques to create
the pattern as well as to grade a pattern that has a bias orientation.
Price and Zamkoff do not use alternative grade axes and do not use a neck
grade as the cowl does not encircle the neck but drapes in front. The
neckpoint/shoulder grading point has a 1/8” width grade for a 1-1/2” grade between
sizes. Shoben and Taylor (2004) use the alternative reference axes on the basis that all
bust shaping has been moved to the cowl neckline and also use a three-dimensional
grade, which considers shape along with a static bust point. Mullet et al. (2009) use
alternate grade reference axes at the shoulder and use the same grade rules as the basic
bodice.
It is not clear if the orientation of the alternative axes is used because of the
grain orientation on the cowl pattern or because of the final location of the fabric grain
on the shoulder which creates the drape (Shoben & Taylor, 2004). There are many
options available when deciding how to apply grade rules to a two dimensional
pattern. There is little information available that is specific to grading bias garments
Summary
Fabric characteristics can be measured in many ways, however grain has been
shown to be important to drape. The fabric grain can be used as a design feature. If
bias is used, the fabric may stretch and therefore the garment fit is affected. Garment
sizing and fit are related in that garments are made to one master size and then graded
to achieve other sizes. It is assumed that that the graded garment will be the same as
33
the original, but because of variation in grain orientation, such as in bias garments,
graded patterns do not have the same properties as the original sized garment.
Therefore the purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between the grain
orientation and graded patterns.
34
Chapter III Methods
Grading a garment pattern to other sizes is a standard method used in the
apparel industry. Grading is done to save time and money in the development of other
sizes from one sample size. Grading does not improve fit, and Mullet et al. (2009)
recommend that no more than two sizes should be graded from a fitted sample size (p.
xvii). This procedure is suggested so fit at extreme sizes within a size range could be
controlled. However, few companies within the industry fit more than one sample
size.
When grading to extreme sizes, the movement or change at a grade point from
the sample’s can be substantially different. The difference can be measured as the
angles of the seamlines and the grain orientation at the grade points. Graded garments
are assumed to be the same as the original, but because of variation in grain
orientation, such as in bias garments, graded patterns may not have the same
properties as the original sized garment. Therefore the purpose of this study was to
investigate the relationship between the grain orientation and graded patterns. The
following investigation was conducted to test the application of grade rules with
consideration of the grain orientation. Two dress patterns with different grain
orientations were graded using two grading methods:
The two dress patterns had:
1. Lengthwise orientation of the pattern with grainline parallel to center front and
center back
35
2. Bias grain orientation of the pattern with the grainline at 45 degree angle to center
front and center back
Grading method one: Reference line parallel to the center of the garment
Two patterns were graded from size 6 to size 22 using a simplified grading system and
a grade reference line using x and y axes. The degree from lengthwise grain
orientation was measured at each grade point: the center hemline, the side
seam/hemline, the sideseam/waist, the side seam/armscye, the armscye, the
armscye/shoulder, the shoulder/neckline and the center neckline grade point.
Grading method two: Alternative reference lines
Alternative reference lines were used on the bias grain dress. The bias grain dress
pattern was graded to maintain the angle at each grade point, and the pattern was
graded with the grainline as the reference line.
In order to measure the grain, garment fit and the graded garment, criteria were
established using the following parameters:
1. A software program was used to measure the angle of the grainline at grade points.
2. Garment sizing was controlled by the use of a simplified grading system derived
from PS 42-70 by Mullet et al (2009).
3. Garment Fit was examined by location of seamlines on a parametric model.
Garment Pattern
A simple Misses size 12 tank dress pattern was created in OptiTex™ based on
a previously constructed bias garment. The garment was created with the lengthwise
36
grain parallel with center front. The same pattern was used to create a bias garment.
There was not a direct comparison between an actual dress on a body or dress
form and a dress on the parametric model. Previous studies have shown the most
reliable comparisons have used a body scanner to input the dress form dimensions
directly into the software (Lim, 2009, p. 197).
The design details chosen for the dress were influenced by possible grain
changes and previous research. The tank dress does not contain any darts, as darts
change the grain orientation on the three dimensional body. The lack of darts does
create excess fabric in the bust area that was more apparent in the dress with the
lengthwise grain orientation. The tank dress has a V neckline in the front and a
shallow scoop neckline in the back so an additional closure system was not necessary.
Side seams and shoulder seams were the only seams used, as seams also change the
behavior of the drape of the fabric. Sidabraite and Masteikaite (2002) concluded that
seamlines and grain direction have a significant influence on garment drape (p. 293)
The dress was loose fitting as simplified grade rules are more appropriate for a looser
fit ( Shoben & Taylor, 2004, p. 6).
Grading System
A grading system is based on anthropometric data. The system needs to
contain enough information so a grade guide (difference between sizes) and a grade
distribution (location of individual differences) can be determined. The American
Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) guide for Misses size specifications D5585
was recently withdrawn without replacement. At this time there is no published data
37
set for Misses size standards based on recent anthropometric data. Individual
company sizing specifications of fit models are considered proprietary information as
are company grade rules (Fasanella, 1998). Size specifications used in this study are
based on the grade rules derived from the National Bureau of Standards Voluntary
Product Standard, PS42-70 (“Voluntary Product Standard PS 42-70 Body
Measurements for the Sizing of Women’s Patterns and Apparel,” 1971). The PS 4270 specifications are a complete set of body measurements that are easily obtained
government publications. The range of sizes was derived from the measurements of
the fit model. Subsequent size measurements were calculated using the grading system
published in PS42-70 and by the grade rules derived from the PS42-70 by Mullet et al.
(2009).
Grade Guide
“A grade guide is determined by the mathematical differences between the
dimensions of adjacent sizes” (Mullet et al., 2009, p. 5). There is a one inch grade
between sizes 6-8 and 8-10 at the circumferences of the bust, waist and hips; a one and
a half inch grade between 10-12, 12-14 and 14-16 at the circumferences of the bust,
waist, and hips; and a two inch grade between 16-18, 18-20, and 20-22 at the
circumferences of the bust, waist, and hips. The size 12 garment was chosen as the
base size to place it towards the center of the size range of 6-22 represented in PS 4270 and because the measurements of the fit model were similar to the size 12
measurements published in PS42-70
38
Grade Distribution
An even grade distribution was used. The major circumferences of the bust,
waist, and hips change equally between sizes. The front and back of the garment are
graded using the same grade rules at the same identified grade point. This method is
part of the simplified grading method
The shoulder slope was graded according to the simplified grading method.
The shoulder seam/neckpoint and the armscye/shoulder seam have different grade
rules. Using this method, the shoulder slope does not stay parallel between sizes.
There is no consistency in how textbook authors grade the shoulder. The shoulder
seam grade is defined differently in each grading textbook (Rohr, 1961; Handford,
1980; Price & Zamkoff, 1996; Doyle & Rodgers, 2003; Shoben & Taylor, 2004;
Mullet et al., 2009).
Computer Software
OptiTex™ software was used to grade the garment into subsequent sizes from
a base size 12 garment. There were two version used, OptiTex™ 10 was used to create
and grade the pattern at the beginning of the study. The software was upgraded to
OptiTex™ 11 beta in February 2011, and this version was used to render the garments
in 3D.
To apply grade rules to the pattern, the zero point must be determined. The
zero point on this dress is the center front and center back waistline. All grade points
39
are calculated from this point. The calculated placement of subsequent sizes is
determined by the grade distribution on the pattern as it relates to the body.
The grade for the dress pattern was input on half of the pattern. The software
then calculates the grade of the total pattern using the center line to reflect the grade to
the other half of the pattern. The pattern was rotated so the center of the garment was
oriented to be at zero polar degrees. The default position for zero polar degrees is a
horizontal position in the software. This is often the default position for grading in
computer software, but this horizontal position is not used consistently in all textbooks
to demonstrate how to grade a pattern. The grade distributions were applied to the
range of sizes based on the distributions calculated in PS42-70.
Three grade points were forced to stay at 90 degrees for the half pattern in the
base 12 size, the center front hemline, the center back hemline. and the center back
neck. These grade points are forced to stay flat to prevent peaks or dips at the
reflected centerline.
The lengthwise grain dress was converted from a half pattern to a full pattern
for consistent numbering between the dress with a lengthwise grain orientation and the
dress with the bias orientation. The grade rule numbers were applied in a clockwise
position with rule 1 being the 0, 0 point at the center waist. The grade rule numbering
resulted in 15 grade points on the front of the pattern and 15 grade points on the back
of the pattern.
The front and back that share the same number also use the same grade rule for
that point. The dress pattern is symmetrical, and with the lengthwise grain dress, the
40
measurements to the grainline are the same on the left and right of side of the front.
The measurement to the grainline is also the same on the left and right of the back.
With the bias dress the angles are not the same to the grainline on the left and right of
the pattern front and back. The bias dress is symmetrical in the pattern outline, but the
grade points angles are not symmetrical to the grainline angle.
It was not feasible to calibrate the ‘instrument’ of OptiTex™ with an actual
garment of test material. To calibrate the instrument a comparison of the fabric with
tested characteristics (KES or FAST parameters) and fitted on the same exact size fit
model as the parametric model would be needed. Previous studies have demonstrated
the ability of OptiTex™ (previously Scanvec) to render three dimensional garments
using scanned garments as comparison to the rendered garment. Researchers at the
National Textile Center in a four year study (ending in 2005) compared scanned
garments to rendered garments to characterize garment drape and understand garment
simulations. The study showed that “variation in drape metrics compared to actual
fabrics was less than 20%” (May-Plumlee et al, 2005, p.1). This means that the
rendered garments were similar to the actual garments.
The OptiTex™ software was used to control the body measurements of the
size 12, size 6, and size 22 fit models. The test dress garment was first rendered onto
the base size 12 parametric model to check for fit. OptiTex™ provides a mesh spring
view that displays the triangular shapes used to simulate drape and also shows the
location of the seamlines on the model. These seamlines were inspected to assure the
41
shoulder seam was centered on the shoulder and the side seams were perpendicular to
the floor.
The base size parametric model’s dimensions are based on ‘Eva’ the default fit
model in OptiTex™. Eva is a compilation of multiple data sets (M. Bakhoum,
personal communication, December 14, 2010). The selection of the frame size of the
parametric model is based on the underbust measurement. The underbust measurement
of 30 inches was chosen as the size of the fit model. The default values for the
parametric model with an underbust measurement of 30 inches were altered to round
to nearest half inch in the circumference measurements of bust, waist, and hips, all
other measurements were left at the default measurement to avoid distortion.
The benefit of using virtual models is the control of the body dimensions in
the fit models throughout the size range. The parametric models were adjusted to
match the grade rules derived from PS4270. The same measurements used to create
the grade rules used in the study were used to calculate the changes in the parametric
model body. The increments between each size were calculated, and the parametric
models were altered to match the dimensions of the extreme sizes.
Lim (2009, p. 199) found that the hourglass and bottom hourglass shaped
parametric models created by input of measurement into OptiTex™ represented more
closely the scanned bodies of the actual models as compared to other body shapes. The
default model Eva in OptiTex™ represents an hourglass shape body. The models of
size 6 and size 22 were created by input through the parametric model interface. The
42
parametric model dimensions were saved for each size. Figure 1 illustrates the three
model sizes: size 6, base size 12 and size 22.
Figure 1. OptiTex™ Parametric Models Derived from PS42-70 Grade Guide
The body measurements added to or subtracted from the models were derived
from the PS 42-70 grade guide. Appendix A shows the body measurements derived
from the fit model Eva and the PS42-70 grade guide. The technique used by Bye et al.
(2008, p. 84) was used to compare the silhouettes of the derived models. The
silhouettes were traced with a vector-based program to compare the size of the body in
the size range. Figure 2 shows the outline of the size 6 fit model, the size 12 fit model,
and the size 22 fit model. The PS42-70 includes a change in stature for each size
increment.
43
Figure 2. Vector
V
Outliine of Fit Moodels
A single
s
fabricc was used foor all garmennts. Due to budget
b
constraints and
equipmentt availabilityy and also beecause the faabric is a fixeed componennt in this stuudy, a
previously
y tested fabriic was used. The fabric is
i a lightweigght silk charrmeuse
previously
y tested by Lim
L (2009) using
u
FAST measuremen
m
nts and conveerted for usee
with the OptiTex™
O
sooftware ( p. 199).
1
Silk chharmeuse fabbric is often used for biaas
grain garm
ments due to the high sheear of the yarrn in the weaave which prroduces drappe.
The textilee characteristics of the faabric are sim
mulated in thee OptiTex™
™ software ass
drape on a three dimennsional modeel.
44
The basis for comparison of the two dimensional pattern and three dimensional
garment is the orientation of the grainline. The simulation of the fabric drape in
OptiTex™ is based on the orientation of the grainline. The OptiTex™ software
simulates the drape of the fabric based on the user input of fabric weight, fabric
thickness, and stretch in the horizontal and vertical dimension.
Fabric drape is influenced by fabric characteristics, grainline orientation, and
seam placement as well as the shape of the object form. A change in drape influences
the fit of the garment. Changes in the shape of nodes and folds at the hemline contour
indicate changes in the grain angle as it covers the form when all other garment
properties are held constant.
The primary assessment of a change in grain alignment was the measurement
of the angle of the pattern outline at the grade points in three pattern sizes. The
difference between the total angle measurements for the base size 12 were compared
to each of the other sizes: size 6 and size 22. The total angle at the grade point is
calculated by the OptiTex™ software. In addition, the angle to the lengthwise grain
was measured at each grade point. Grainline angles were compiled for the front and
back pieces of the pattern
The OptiTex™ files were exported to AutoCAD in the form of drawing
exchange files to verify angle measurements. The angle measurements differed
because the method for measuring the angle in OptiTex™ was not available in
AutoCAD. AutoCAD will measure angles that are composed of straight line while
OptiTex™ is able to measure the angle at a grade point that incorporates a curved
45
line. To use the angle measurement in AutoCAD the pattern perimeter needed to be
straightened, which negated the comparison. There was agreement in the areas of
most change in degree angle, but the degree measurements were not exactly the same
due to the curved outline of the pattern at the grade point intersections.
The measurement of an angle is usually calculated from a given point with
straight line radiating from this point. In patterns, often one of the perimeter lines is a
curve. The angle measurement was described by OptiTex™ as being the smallest
recordable measurement, but the angle would change slightly if different slices of the
pattern were built from the same grade point angle. To standardize the measurement a
device was created within the OptiTex™ software.
A crosshair measuring tool was used as a guideline, using a one inch circle
bisected vertically and horizontally with a center point. The center point of the
crosshair was placed on each grade point in order to measure the distance to the
grainline which is parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric. The distance from the
center point of the crosshair to the outer perimeter was one half inch. This measuring
device was necessary to standardize the angle given when curved portions of the
pattern pieces were included. One half inch was chosen because it was an easily
viewable segment and is a measurement that is used in hand patternmaking to smooth
curves at center front and center back.
The angle to the grainline was calculated using the OptiTex™ software using
the build piece tool to construct a duplicate portion of the pattern that represented the
distance to the grainline from the grade point. Not all grade points included the
46
reference grainline within the pattern interior, such as at the side hemline. If the angle
to the grainline was within the pattern, the measurement was recorded in both a
clockwise and counter clockwise direction from the pattern perimeter to the guideline.
If the grade point did not have the grainline guideline through the interior of the
pattern, both a clockwise and counter clockwise angle were calculated from the pattern
perimeter to the guideline. The absolute value of the difference between the base size
12 and graded size 6 and size 22 was calculated as the difference from the grainline,
not a positive or negative value.
Notation was developed to record the circular area of the crosshair with the
expectation that the total of all measurements would equal 360 degrees.
•
CW for Clockwise
•
CCW for Counter Clockwise
•
i for a measurement interior to the pattern outline
•
e for exterior to the pattern outline
A sample of measurements was checked to see if the total was equal to 360
degrees. It was determined that there is some rounding, and the degree decimal place
was not expandable beyond one decimal point in the software. It was also noted that a
curved grade point smoothes the pattern outline and calculates an angle that is
different from a grade point without a curved grade point. The total internal
measurement can include a curved grade point. All measurements from the pattern
perimeter to the grainline did not use curved grade points. This difference between a
curved grade point and the same grade point without the curve option as used with the
47
measurement tool, also introduced a difference in angle measurements. The largest
difference measured was at the armscye. A total internal angle measurement at the
armscye, point 6 in the size 22 was 180 degrees. The same point 6 and size 22
measured with the crosshair measurement tool without the curved grade point was
177.8.
A secondary visual assessment was performed in the 3D module of OptiTex™.
The garment was stitched and rendered on the virtual model. The rendering process
was repeated three times to check for consistency in the virtual rendering of the
garment. Each rendered dress was saved on the parametric model for further review.
One of the challenges of sewing bias garments is the stretch of the seamlines
while sewing. The default stitch choice in OptiTex™ was the single needle lockstitch.
Changing the stitch and stitch length to accommodate the fabric was not included in
this study. There was also no facing or edge finish applied to the neckline, armscye or
hem. This stitching would add additional variability to the study; so the decision was
made not to include additional stitching that could influence the drape of the garment.
Screen captures were taken using OptiTex™ software ‘snapshots’ for each
rendering, as shown in Figure 3. The position of the shoulder seamlines and side
seams on the model were assessed. The green lines in the figure represent the position
of the seamlines in the garment.
48
Figure 3. OptiTex™ Spring View Seam Placement
The difference in between the garment size and parametric model size was
measured and recorded at the circumference of bust, waist and hip as shown in Figure
4. The circumference measuring tool was placed on the parametric model in the
position that corresponded to the body measurement previously established by the
grade rules. The software displayed both the body and garment measurements on the
rendered garment screen view.
49
Figure 4. Misses size 12 Eva Circumferences
The perimeter of the hem drape and the area of the hem drape were also
calculated from the snapshot feature of OptiTex™. The software placed the
parametric model upside down in the same place in each event. In this way the
hemline had a standardized orientation and scale. The scale is not full scale and does
not represent the actual measurement of the hem contour but is based on the scale of
the snapshot.
To obtain the same scale in each drape, the spring view is employed, then the
parametric model is turned off and the bottom view is chosen. A snapshot was taken
using the OptiTex™ software and saved as a .jpeg file. The snapshot was then opened
in Adobe Illustrator and traced using the Live Trace Feature which converts the .jpeg
snapshot to a vector based line depicting the hem outline. This file was saved as a .dxf
50
(data exchange file) and opened in AutoCAD where the perimeter and area
measurements were obtained.
Data Analysis
Descriptive statistics were used to analyze the data. Quantitative and
qualitative data were collected to address each objective. For each objective the type
of quantitative and qualitative data are explained.
Objective 1 measures the variation of the grain angle at defined grade points
from the base size Misses 12 to Misses size 6 and size 22 in relation to the fabric
grain: when the center of the garment is on the lengthwise grain and when the center
of the garment is on the bias grain.
Quantitative measurements were made of the pattern angle at each of the grade
points including i) the total angle measurement in degrees and ii) the angle
measurement in degrees to the lengthwise grain when the pattern is graded with a
center reference line.
Objective 2 evaluates the use of alternative grading methods in relation to
fabric grain.
Quantitative measurements were the pattern angle measurements taken at each
of the defined grade points when using alternative methods including: i) total angle
measurements at each grade point for bias grainline reference, ii) the total angle
measurement on the bias dress when a center reference line was used with a fixed
51
angle, and iii) the angle measurement in degrees on the bias dress to the lengthwise
grain when a center reference line was used with a fixed angle.
Qualitative measurements included comparison of the bias dress nested
pattern’s perimeter shape between the different grainline reference procedures. Three
outcomes of the same pattern were compared by nesting the patterns with a common
reference point.
Objective 3 evaluates the changes in a garment drape and fit when a Misses base size
12 garment was graded to size 6 and size 22.
Quantitative measurements included measurement of: i) difference in
circumference measurements between the body and the garment on the 3D model and
ii) comparison of hemline contour using the ratio of the area and the perimeter.
Qualitative measurement included: Comparison of the three dimensional
rendering on the OptiTex™ models including i) the seam placement on parametric
model between different grainline reference procedures, ii) visual difference between
sizes using snapshots, and iii) visual differences between hemline contours.
52
Chapter IV Results
The results of the study are presented in relation to the objective that is
addressed. The implications and discussion of the results will be discussed in the
following chapter.
Objective 1
To measure variation of the grain angle at defined grade points from the
Misses base size 12 to size 6 and size 22 in relation to the fabric grain when the center
of the garment is on the lengthwise grain and when the center of the garment is on the
bias grain.
The total internal angle was measured on the basic dress pattern. The basic
dress pattern used in this study has 15 locations on the front dress and 15 locations on
the back dress. The angles are formed by either the intersection of actual perimeter
lines of the pattern or location lines such as the center front location and a seamline.
The internal angles at the grade point are automatically calculated by the OptiTex™
software when the pattern is graded.
The information in Table 1 is the total internal angle measurements in degrees
at each grade point for the lengthwise and bias dresses. The pattern perimeter is the
same in both grain orientations with a center grade reference line. The table includes
the degree angle measurements for the Misses base size 12 and for the graded size 6
and size 22.
53
Table 1 . Total Internal Angle at Pattern Grade Point
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
Size
6
Size
12
Size
22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
92.3
180.0
95.5
180.0
102.4
82.1
‐87.8
82.1
102.4
180.0
95.5
180.0
92.3
0.0
180.0
92.6
180.0
90.0
180.0
101.5
83.8
‐90.0
83.8
101.5
180.0
90.0
180.0
92.6
0.0
180.0
92.9
180.0
80.8
180.0
102.3
84.7
‐94.3
84.7
102.3
180.0
80.8
180.0
92.9
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
91.4
180.0
95.2
180.0
102.6
82.6
180.0
82.5
102.6
180.0
95.2
180.0
91.4
0.0
180.0
91.5
180.0
90.1
180.0
101.6
84.3
180.0
84.3
101.6
180.0
90.1
180.0
91.5
0.0
180.0
91.5
180.0
82.3
180.0
102.2
84.7
180.0
84.7
102.2
180.0
82.3
180.0
91.5
Table 2 presents differences between the base size (Misses 12) and the graded
size (Misses size 6) (Misses size 22). The difference represents the change in the
grain angle from the base size 12 pattern when the garment is graded with a center
reference line. Differences greater than 4 degrees are in bold font. The absolute value
of the degree difference between the base size 12 pattern and the graded size 6, and the
54
base size 12 and the graded size 22 is given. There were four grade points in the size 6
and size 22 graded patterns that had difference greater than four degrees from the base
size 12 pattern. The points were the front side seam/armcyes (point 5 and point 13)
and the back side seam/armscyes (point 5 and point 13).
Table 2. Absolute Value of Difference in Total Internal Angle of Pattern Grade Points
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
Size
6
Size
12
Size
22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
5.5
0.0
0.9
1.7
2.2
1.7
0.9
0.0
5.5
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
9.2
0.0
0.8
0.9
4.3
0.9
0.8
0.0
9.2
0.0
0.3
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
5.1
0.0
1.0
1.7
0.0
1.8
1.0
0.0
5.1
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
7.8
0.0
0.6
0.4
0.0
0.4
0.6
0.0
7.8
0.0
0.0
55
Fig
gure 5. Diffeerence in Tottal Internal Angle
A
betweeen Base Sizee 12 and Graaded
Size 6, illu
ustrates the summary
s
of differences in
i the total innternal angle between thhe
Misses basse size 12 annd graded sizze 6. The larrgest differennces betweenn the grain
angles are at points at the under arrm/side seam
m intersectionn (points 5 and
a 13).
D
inn Total Interrnal Angle beetween Basee Size 12 andd Graded Sizze 6
Figure 5. Difference
he summary of the differrence in the total internaal degree anggle between the
t
Th
Misses basse size 12 annd the gradedd size 22 at the
t numbereed grade poinnts is illustraated
56
in Figure 6.
6 The dress was graded with a centeer reference line. The laargest differeences
are on the sideseam/arrmscye and the
t center froont neck (pooints 5, 13 annd front 9).
Figure 6. Difference
D
inn Internal Anngle betweenn Size 12 annd Size 22
Th
he lengthwisee grain dresss was measurred, and the angle measuurement in
degrees at each patternn grade poinnt is shown inn Table 3. Thhe angle measurement iss
taken from
m the pattern perimeter too the lengthw
wise grain guuideline, whhich is parallel to
grainline on
o the patternn piece. Thee table incluudes the measurements foor three sizes: the
Misses basse size 12, graded size 6, and gradedd size 22.
57
Table 3. Lengthwise Grain Dress, Center Grade Reference, Angle Measurement to the
Lengthwise Grain
Rule #
Description
6
FRONT
Location
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
i₁
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Size 6
6
0.0
89.9
171.7
145.1
13.2
136.2
68.6
35.6
8.5
6
i₂
e₁
0.0
89.9
79.7
8.5
3.4
35.4
8.4
69.3
135.9
12.9
68.6
145.0
81.2
171.7
8.0
6
e₂
12
i₁
0.0
90.0
Base Size 12
12
12
i₂
e₁
0.0
90.0
8.0
e₂
80.0
172.0
143.1
3.4
8.7
68.4
37.7
69.1
37.7 142.9
3.4
16.2
132.7
67.5
69.9
35.5
86.6
8.7
7.3
79.9
36.8
3.4
8.2 172.0
79.7
172.4
140.6
14.7 69.9
134.9 135.1
69.6 13.9
8.4
22
i₁
0.0
90.3
8.0
8.0
86.6
8.2
81.2
12
7.7
Size 22
22
22
22
i₂
e₁
e₂
0.0
90.2
80.7
6.5
7.7
3.5 95.7
41.0
9.2 67.5
67.5
132.7
16.1
68.6
9.1
140.4
95.6
3.5
172.4
6.5 80.6
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CB
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
89.9
0.0
90.1
79.5
176.4
3.6
138.9
41.0
13.1
90.1
68.4
69.4
90.3
13.2
0.0
89.9
0.0
90.1
176.7
3.3
137.5
44.1
9.1
79.7
4.0 80.7
3.9
8.2 69.5
8.6
68.6
8.3
69.9
80.6
4.1
85.8
79.6
8.5
2.8
136.2
46.0
16.0
89.6
68.5
67.7
89.7
16.2
46.2
136.2
2.8
177.0
68.4
8.7
4.0
3.3 176.6
9.0
177.0
86.0
44.1 137.6
3.0 176.5
0.0
90.1
8.6
14.3 70.0
90.0 89.9
68.8 14.5
41.1 138.9
0.0
89.9
79.9
80.4
7.9
3.7
93.9
9.2
67.2
68.6
9.3
93.7
3.9
7.8
80.6
Directon from perimeter to Lengthwise guideline
i₁
Internal Measure Clockwise
i₂
Internal Measure Counter Clockwise
e₁
External Measure Clockwise
e₂
External Measure Counter Clockwise
The absolute value of the differences between the angle measured at each
grade point on the lengthwise grain Misses base size 12 and graded size 6 and graded
size 22 pattern are shown in Table 4.
58
Table 4. Lengthwise Grain Dress, center grade reference, difference between base size
12, graded size 6 and graded size 22
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
6
i₁
0.0
0.1
0.3
2.0
1.5
1.3
1.0
2.1
0.3
Size 6
6
6
i₂ e₁
0.0
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.0
2.3
0.3
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.3
2.1
5.4
0.3
0.7
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.3
1.4
3.1
1.2
0.1
0.4
0.6
0.4
1.3
3.0
1.3
0.3
0.1
0.2
0.1
0.4
1.3
5.2
0.5
6
Base
12
e₂
0.0
5.4
0.7
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.5
5.3
1.1
0.4
0.1
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
22
i₁
0.0
0.3
0.4
2.5
1.5
2.2
2.1
0.9
0.5
Size 22
22
22
i₂ e₁
0.0
0.2
0.7
0.5
0.1
3.3
0.0
0.5
2.4
2.4
2.2
1.3
2.5
9.0
0.4
0.8
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.5
1.3
1.9
1.7
0.4
0.3
2.3
0.2
1.7
2.1
1.4
0.5
0.4
22
e₂
1.5
9.1
0.9
0.4
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.7
0.7
0.7
0.2
7.9
0.6
1.2
1.3
0.6
7.9
0.1
0.7
0.7
Directon from Perimeter to Lengthwise guideline
i₁ Internal Measure Clockwise
i₂ Internal Measure Counter Clockwise
e₁ External Measure Clockwise
e₂ External Measure Counter Clockwise
Figure 7 illustrates the summary of difference in degree angle between the
Misses base size 12 and graded size 6 from the pattern perimeter to the grainline for
the lengthwise grain dress pattern. The difference is greater at towards the armscye
59
curve (points 5 and 13). At each grade point the distance to the grainline was
measured by placing a one inch circular measuring tool on the grade point. The
direction to the grain was measured in two directions, a clockwise direction to the
grainline and the counterclockwise direction to the grainline. The shape of the pattern
perimeter at the grade point determined if the measurement could be made internal or
external to the pattern outline. The measurement was coded in a circular quadrant as
clockwise, counter clockwise, internal or external as shown in the legend in each
figure. For example, in Figure 7, the front sideseam/armscye (point 5) was measured
external to the pattern perimeter due to the curve of the side seam. The measurement
from the perimeter of the pattern at the armscye to the grainline, in the
counterclockwise direction, was more than four degrees different from the base size 12
pattern. The measurement from the sideseam/armscye (point 5), measured external to
the pattern from the sideseam to the grainline, in the clockwise direction, was less than
2 degrees.
60
Figure 7. Lengthwise
L
G
Grain
Dress, Center Refference, Diffference in Anngle to Grainnline
between Misses
M
Base Size 12 and Graded Sizee 6
A summary
s
off the differennce in degreee angle to thee grainline between
b
the
Misses basse size 12 annd graded sizze 22 for thee lengthwise grain dress pattern
p
withh a
center refeerence line iss illustrated in
i Figure 8.
61
Figure 8. Lengthwise
L
G
Grain
Dress, Center Refference, Diffference in Anngle to Grainnline
between Misses
M
Base Size 12 and Graded Sizee 22.
Th
he bias grain dress angle measuremennts are preseented in Tablle 5. The anngle
measurem
ments in degreees at each pattern
p
gradee point for thhe bias grainn dress are lissted.
The angle measuremennts are takenn from the paattern perimeeter to the leengthwise grrain
guideline that
t is paralllel to the graainline on thee pattern piece. The tablle includes
measurem
ments for Missses base sizee 12, gradedd size 6, and graded size 22.
62
Table 5. Bias Grain Dress, Center Grade Reference, Angle to Grainline
Size 6
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
6
i₁
6
i₂
Base Size 12
6
e₁
6
e₂
0.0
0.0
134.8 44.8
36.9 55.3
36.8 143.8
12
i₁
12
i₂
48.4 36.2
e₂
48.4
53.4 24.3
23.7
34.6 54.1
48.7
41.0
93.8
36.8
131.8
49.0
88.7
65.1
52.4
35.0
34.8
53.6
65.2
23.7 53.2
67.5 28.8
44.1 134.1
23.6 61.0
24.6
35.8 48.9
48.0
41.3
91.1
35.8
30.5
53.6
1.3 181.3
138.8 41.4
55.6 35.9
35.5 51.5
132.0
41.4
91.1
67.5
45.0 135.0
23.9 59.4
3.9 176.1
51.5 35.7
45.1 135.1
48.1
41.1
91.3
36.4
65.9 31.7
45.7 135.6
23.6 58.2
28.9 66.3
35.9 66.1
86.1 95.6
41.5 35.9
52.8 127.4
0.0 0.0
44.9 135.1
44.9 134.9
54.1 22.6
22.5
87.8
65.1
65.2
94.0
48.4
127.1
53.0 34.7
22
e₂
48.5 50.7
61.2
177.8
31.1
36.3
86.0
41.6
53.3
22
e₁
5.5 176.1
53.7
32.1 65.7
22
i₂
41.6
59.0 24.8
180.0 90.0
65.8
99.8
53.8
126.8
22
i₁
0.0
0.0
135.3 45.3
38.5 54.5
37.4 142.8
4.0 176.0
57.9 24.2
181.7 91.7
131.8
54.2
86.1
65.8
e₁
12
0.0 0.0
135.0 45.0
37.7 55.1
37.1 143.3
9.5 170.6
36.6
80.1
41.6
53.8
Size 22
12
23.6 54.2
1.1 181.1
41.1
138.3 41.6
55.2 36.4
48.9
48.5 48.8
138.5
54.5
42.0
37.1
Dire cton from patte rn pe rime te r to grainline guideline
i₁
Internal Measure Clockwise
i₂
Internal Measure Counter Clockwise
e₁
External Measure Clockwise
e₂
External Measure Counter Clockwise
Table 6 lists the absolute value of the difference in degree measurement for the
angle to the grainline at each pattern grade point for the bias grain dress. The table
includes the difference in degree angles between the Misses base size 12 and the
graded size 6, and the absolute value of the difference in degree angles between the
Misses base size 12 and the graded size 22.
63
Table 6. Bias Grain Dress, Center Reference, Difference between Base Size 12,
Graded Size 6 and Graded Size 22
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
6
i₁
0.0
0.2
0.8
0.3
5.5
1.1
1.7
0.3
5.9
0.0
0.5
Size 6
6
6
i₂
e₁
0.0
0.2
0.2
0.5
0.0
5.4
0.3
0.6
1.7
1.0
0.6
5.8
5.4
0.3
0.6
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
5.2
2.6
0.7
0.6
0.1
2.5
0.4
0.7
0.3
0.6
1.2
2.6
5.2
0.5
0.4
0.2
0.5
0.2
0.7
0.9
0.0
5.3
6
Base size
12
e₂
5.4
0.6
0.6
0.3
0.5
1.2
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
22
i₁
0.0
0.3
0.8
0.3
1.5
2.2
2.2
0.4
0.1
0.1
0.5
Size 22
22
22
i₂
e₁
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.5
0.1
0.1
0.4
2.3
2.2
2.2
0.9
1.6
12.5
0.3
0.9
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.2
7.6
2.4
2.4
0.1
0.2
0.2
0.6
0.9
0.3
0.9
1.6
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.7
0.4
0.7
22
e₂
9.1
1.1
1.2
0.7
0.7
2.1
2.3
1.7
1.0
0.6
7.4
0.1
Dire cton from Pe rime ter to Grainline Guide line
i₁
Internal Measure Clockwise
i₂
Internal Measure Counter Clockwise
e ₁ External Measure Clockwise
e ₂ External Measure Counter Clockwise
Figure 9 represents a summary of the difference in the angle to the grainline
measurement data between the Misses base size 12 and graded size 6 for the bias grain
dress with a garment center grade reference line. The armscye has changes in the
grain angle that are greater than four degrees on the front dress pattern. The back
64
dress patteern has the saame four deggree or greatter changes, but the channges at the
armscye (p
point 6 and point
p
12) aree not as largee as the frontt.
Figure 9. Bias
B Grain Dress,
D
Centerr Reference, Difference in Angle to the Grainlinne
between Misses
M
Base Size 12 and Graded Sizee 6
Fig
gure 10 illusttrates a summ
mary of the difference inn angle to thhe grainline
measurem
ment data betw
ween the basse Misses sizze 12 and the graded size 22 for the bias
grain dresss with a garm
ment center grade
g
referennce line. Thee bias grainlline creates more
m
variability
y in the anglee to the grainnline on the right
r
and lefft side of the garment.
65
Figure 10. Bias Grain Dress, Center Referencee, Differencee between M
Misses Base Size
S
12 and Graaded Size 222
66
Objective 2
To evaluate the use of alternative grading methods in relation to fabric grain.
The alternative methods are: i) total angle measurements at each grade point for bias
grainline reference, ii) the total angle measurement when a center reference line is
used with a fixed angle, and iii) the angle measurement in degrees to the lengthwise
grain when a center reference line is used with a fixed angle.
The bias grain dress was graded with the grainline used as the reference line.
Since there is little published information available about how to grade a bias garment,
a grading procedure was used that is based on the orientation of the grainline. In a
garment that is on the lengthwise grain, the center of the garment and the grainline are
the same reference line. The default for computer grading is to set the grading
reference line parallel to the grainline. Therefore the default reference line for a bias
dress is 45 degrees to the center front line. Data were collected for this reference line
in order to determine what the results would be if the pattern was graded in the default
computer position. This orientation would not be used by an experienced pattern
grader.
The total internal angle measurement data from the bias grain dress graded
with the grainline as the grade reference line are shown in Table 7. The table includes
measurements for three sizes: the Misses base size 12, graded size 6, and graded size
22.
67
Table 7. Bias Grain Dress, Grainline Reference, Total Internal Angle Measurement
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
Size
6
Size Size
12
22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
91.8
180.0
96.7
180.0
103.0
79.8
‐88.5
85.5
101.1
180.0
90.0
180.0
93.0
0.0
180.0
92.6
180.0
90.0
180.0
101.5
83.8
‐90.0
83.8
101.5
180.0
90.0
180.0
92.6
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
92.3
180.0
87.6
180.0
100.7
85.4
180.0
80.9
103.8
180.0
98.3
180.0
90.6
0.0
0.0
180.0 180.0
91.5 88.3
180.0 180.0
90.1
93.6
180.0 180.0
101.6 107.0
84.3
80.8
180.0 180.0
84.3
88.3
101.6
97.4
180.0 180.0
90.1
72.5
180.0 180.0
91.5 94.6
0.0
180.0
95.5
180.0
73.6
180.0
98.1
89.7
‐93.3
79.0
106.2
180.0
90.2
180.0
90.0
Table 8 lists the absolute value of the difference in degree angle between the Misses
base size 12 and graded size 6 and graded size 22 for the bias dress graded with the
grainline as the grade reference line. Numbers greater than four degrees are in bold.
There is a much greater change in the graded size 22 as compared to the graded size 6.
68
Table 8. Bias grain dress, grainline reference, difference between the total internal
angles of base size 12, size 6 and size 22
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
size
6
base size 12
22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0
6.7
0.0
1.5
4.0
1.5
1.7
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.9
0.0
16.4
0.0
3.4
5.9
3.3
4.8
4.7
0.0
0.2
0.0
2.6
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0
2.5
0.0
0.9
1.1
0.0
3.4
2.2
0.0
8.2
0.0
0.9
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
3.2
0.0
3.5
0.0
5.4
3.5
0.0
4.0
4.2
0.0
17.6
0.0
3.1
Figure 11 illustrates a summary of the data; the absolute value of the difference
between the base Misses size 12 and Misses size 6. The bias grain dress was graded
with the grainline as the grade reference line. The asymmetrical change in the
69
grainline from
f
the left and right sidde of the dreess is appareent in the shooulders and
underarm of the garmeent.
Figure 11. Bias Grain Dress, Grainnline Reference, Difference betweenn Total Internnal
Angle of Misses
M
Base Size 12 andd Graded Size 6
A summary
s
off the data preesented in Taable 8, the abbsolute valuee of the
difference between thee Misses basse size 12 annd the gradedd size 22 is illlustrated in
Figure 12. The changee in angle too the grainlinne from the Misses
M
base size 12 and the
grade size 22 is highesst at the sideseam/armscyye grade poiints (points 5 and 13), buut the
shoulder also
a has angle differences great than four degreess from the grrainline.
70
Figure 12. Bias Grain Dress, Grainnline Reference, Difference betweenn Total Internnal
Angle of Base
B
Size 122 and Size 222
Th
he bias dress was also graaded using a center referrence line annd then fixing the
angle at th
he grade poinnt to the basee size 12 meeasurement. Table
T
9 incluudes the dataa
from the bias
b grain dreess that has been
b
graded with a centeer grade refeerence line annd
fixed anglees at each grrade point. The
T angle meeasurements are listed foor the total
internal an
ngle at each grade
g
point. The table inncludes meassurements foor three sizess: the
Misses basse size 12, graded size 6 and graded size 22.
71
Table 9. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Total Internal Angles
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
size
6
base
12
size
22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
92.6
180.0
90.0
180.0
101.7
83.8
‐89.9
83.8
101.7
180.0
90.0
180.0
92.6
0.0
180.0
92.6
180.0
90.0
180.0
101.5
83.8
‐90.0
83.8
101.5
180.0
90.0
180.0
92.6
0.0
180.0
92.6
180.0
90.0
180.0
101.0
83.8
‐90.1
83.8
101.1
180.0
90.0
180.0
92.6
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
180.0
91.5
180.0
90.1
180.0
101.4
84.3
180.0
84.3
101.4
180.0
90.1
180.0
91.5
0.0
180.0
91.5
180.0
90.1
180.0
101.6
84.3
180.0
84.3
101.6
180.0
90.1
180.0
91.5
0.0
180.0
91.5
180.0
90.1
180.0
101.8
84.3
180.0
84.3
101.8
180.0
90.1
180.0
91.5
Table 10 lists the absolute value of the difference in total internal angle
between the Misses base size 12, graded size 6 and graded size 22 shown in Table 9.
The bias grain dress has been graded with a center grade reference line and fixed
angles at each grade point. The differences are all .5 degrees or below.
72
Table 10. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angle, Difference in Total Internal
Angle
Rule #
FRONT
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
BACK
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Description
size
6
base
12
size 22
CF/ Waist
CF/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
CB/Waist
CB/Hemline
Hemline/Side Seam
Side Seam/Side Waist
Side Seam/Armscye
Armscye
Armscye/Shoulder
Shoulder/Neckline
Neckline/CF
Shoulder/Neckline
Armscye/Shoulder
Armscye
Side Seam/Armscye
Side Seam/Side Waist
Hemline/Side Seam
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
Figure 13 illustrates a summary of the difference in the total internal angle
measurement data between the Misses base size 12 and the graded size 6 for the bias
grain dress with a garment center grade reference line and a fixed angle.
73
Figure 13. Bias Grain Dress, Center Referencee Line and Fixed
F
Angle, Difference
between Misses
M
Base Size 12 and Graded Sizee 6
Fig
gure 14 illusttrates a summ
mary of the difference inn total internnal angle
measurem
ment data betw
ween the basse Misses sizze 12 and the Misses sizze 22 for the bias
grain dresss with a garm
ment center grade
g
referennce line andd a fixed anglle.
74
Figure 14. Bias Grain Dress, Center Referencee and Fixed Angle,
A
Diffeerence in Tootal
Internal Angle between Misses Baase size 12 annd Graded Size
S 22
Tab
ble 11 includdes the anglee to the grainnline in the bias
b dress paattern with a
center grad
de reference line and fixxed angles. The
T angle to the grainlinee is measured in
three sizess, the base size 12, size 6,
6 and size 222 at each num
mbered gradde point.
75
Table 11. Bias Dress, Center Grade Reference and Fixed Angle, Angle to Grainline
Size 6
Rule # Description
FRONT
1
CF/ Waist
2
CF/Hemline
3
Hemline/Side Seam
4
Side Seam/Side Waist
5
Side Seam/Armscye
6
Armscye
7
Armscye/Shoulder
8
Shoulder/Neckline
9
Neckline/CF
10 Shoulder/Neckline
11 Armscye/Shoulder
12 Armscye
13 Side Seam/Armscye
14 Side Seam/Side Waist
15 Hemline/Side Seam
BACK
1
CB/Waist
2
CB/Hemline
3
Hemline/Side Seam
4
Side Seam/Side Waist
5
Side Seam/Armscye
6
Armscye
7
Armscye/Shoulder
8
Shoulder/Neckline
9
Neckline/CF
10 Shoulder/Neckline
11 Armscye/Shoulder
12 Armscye
13 Side Seam/Armscye
14 Side Seam/Side Waist
15 Hemline/Side Seam
Base Size 12
6
6
6
6
i₁
i₂
e₁
e₂
0.0
0.0
134.7 44.7
37.1 55.7
36.7 143.3
48.9
41.1
5.8 175.9
53.5
23.7
59.0 24.8
180.0 90.0
31.1
65.4
36.5 65.2
86.0 93.9
41.1 48.8
53.5 127.0
52.9
34.7
0.0
0.0
44.5 134.8
0.0 0.0
44.9 135.1
34.5
131.6
49.4
88.5
64.4
54.1
48.6
40.7
91.3
36.9
34.8
131.8
49.0
88.7
65.1
64.5
65.2
25.3
53.1
24.6
49.3
41.1
135.0
38.5
36.5
45.0
54.2
143.6
4.4
176.0
58.9
180.0
23.6
89.9
35.8
86.0
43.1
53.6
65.4
94.4
46.8
126.5
45.0
135.0
131.5
47.8
89.3
67.5
48.2
42.3
91.2
35.5
45.0
23.6
135.0
60.5
0.7
180.5
138.2
54.5
41.5
37.1
53.6
1.3 181.3
40.6
22
i₂
30.5
45.0 135.0
23.9 59.4
2.5 180.0
22
i₁
53.6
48.1
41.1
91.3
36.4
31.3
45.4 135.4
25.3 58.7
138.6 41.5
55.7 35.9
Size 22
12
12
12
12
i₁
i₂
e₁
e₂
0.0 0.0
135.0 45.0
37.7 55.1
37.1 143.3
48.4
41.6
4.0 176.0
53.7
23.7
59.0 24.8
180.0 90.0
31.1
65.1
36.3 65.2
86.0 94.0
41.6 48.4
53.3 127.1
52.4
35.0
48.9
138.3 41.6
55.2 36.4
22
e₁
22
e₂
46.9
43.2
54.2
23.4
31.0
65.2
51.5
34.8
35.9
52.9
67.5
29.4
23.7
54.5
42.2
47.7
Table 12 lists the absolute value of the differences between the angle to the
grainline measurements listed in Table 11 for the bias dress with the center reference
angle and fixed angle. The angle is measure from the pattern perimeter to the
grainline for Misses base size 12, graded size 6, and graded size 22.
76
Table 12. Bias Dress, Center Reference and Fixed Angles, Difference between the
Angle to the Grainline between Misses Base size 12, Graded Size 6 and Graded Size
22
Size 6
Rule # Description
FRONT
1 CF/ Waist
2 CF/Hemline
3 Hemline/Side Seam
4 Side Seam/Side Waist
5 Side Seam/Armscye
6 Armscye
7 Armscye/Shoulder
8 Shoulder/Neckline
9 Neckline/CF
10 Shoulder/Neckline
11 Armscye/Shoulder
12 Armscye
13 Side Seam/Armscye
14 Side Seam/Side Waist
15 Hemline/Side Seam
BACK
1 CB/Waist
2 CB/Hemline
3 Hemline/Side Seam
4 Side Seam/Side Waist
5 Side Seam/Armscye
6 Armscye
7 Armscye/Shoulder
8 Shoulder/Neckline
9 Neckline/CF
10 Shoulder/Neckline
11 Armscye/Shoulder
12 Armscye
13 Side Seam/Armscye
14 Side Seam/Side Waist
15 Hemline/Side Seam
6
i₁
6
i₂
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.4
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.0
1.8
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.5
0.2
0.0
0.1
0.4
0.1
Base
6
e₁
0.5
0.2
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.4
6
0.0
0.3
0.3
0.0
0.3
0.3
0.2
0.4
0.2
0.7
0.5
0.4
0.0
0.5
0.4
1.4
0.4
0.7
1.2
1.3
0.3
0.5
0.1
0.5
0.7
0.7
0.5
22
i₁
22
i₂
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.6
0.0
0.0
0.9
0.3
0.4
0.0
0.1
0.0
1.2
0.1
0.5
0.0
1.5
0.3
0.2
0.4
1.6
0.6
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
e₂
0.5
0.5
0.8
0.5
0.4
Size 22
12
22
e₁
22
e₂
1.5
1.6
0.5
0.3
0.1
0.1
0.9
0.2
1.1
0.7
2.3
1.1
0.9
0.9
1.1
1.2
0.0
0.1
0.3
1.2
0.6
2.4
0.1
1.2
0.1
0.9
0.0
0.3
0.0
1.1
0.6
0.8
0.1
0.7
0.1
0.7
Figure 15 illustrates the summary of the data presented in Table 12; the
absolute value of the difference in angle to the grainline between the Misses base size
12 and graded size 6. The data show that there was some movement in the grainline
angle though the total internal angle between the sizes remained fairly constant in as
77
shown in Table
T
10 whhere all differrences from the size 12 is below .5 degrees
d
and is
recorded as
a zero at 25 of the 30 measured poinnts in size 6 and size 22.
Figure 15. Bias Grain Dress, Center Referencee and Fixed Angle,
A
Diffeerence in Anngle
to the Graiinline betweeen Misses Base
B
size 12 and Graded Size 6
Fig
gure 16 illusttrates the sum
mmary of thhe data preseented in Tablle 12; the
absolute value of the difference
d
inn angle to thee grainline beetween the Misses
M
base size
12 and graaded size 22.. The changges in the anggle to the graainline are laargest at the back
shoulder (p
point 7 and point
p
8), thoough all the angles
a
are stiill less than four degreess.
78
Figure 16. Bias Grain Dress, Center Referencee and Fixed Angle,
A
Diffeerence betweeen
Base Size 12 and Size 22
Fig
gure 17 illusttrates the neested pattern of the gradeed size 6 biass grain dressses.
The nest in
ncludes the Misses
M
size 6 dress patteern graded with
w a center grade refereence
line; the Misses
M
size 6 dress patterrn graded with the grainlline as the reeference line; and
the Missess size 6 dresss pattern graaded with a center
c
referennce and a fixxed angle.
79
Figure 17. Bias Grain Dress Size 6,
6 Nest of Grrading Methhods
Fig
gure 18 illusttrates the neested pattern of the gradeed Misses sizze 22 bias grrain
dress. Thee nest includdes the Missees size 22 drress pattern graded
g
with a center gradde
reference line;
l
the Missses size 22 dress
d
patternn graded withh the grainliine as the
reference line;
l
and thee Misses sizee 22 dress paattern gradedd with a centter reference and
a fixed ang
gle.
80
Figure 18. Bias Grain Dress, Misses Size 22, Nest
N of Gradding Methodds
ve 3
Objectiv
To evaluatte the changees in a garm
ment drape annd fit when a master sizee Misses 12
garment iss graded to Misses
M
size 6 and 22 sizees.
To evaluate thee drape and fit,
f a parameetric model was
w construccted on the
u
the 3D
D modeling software
s
in OptiTex™.
O
The same faabric and
computer using
constraintss were used on each sizee.
81
Each size of graded pattern was stitched within the software and placed on the
corresponding size parametric model for rendering. Each rendered garment was saved
on the model and could be reopened for further review in the 3D window. The pattern
was draped on the parametric model three times due to variation in fabric drape, in
reality, as well as with the virtual fabric on the parametric model. The operator
positions the fabric pattern on the parametric model. The numbering system in the
following tables notates the size designation and the sequence in the rendering. For
example, 6A is the first rendering of the size 6 pattern, 6B is the second rendering, and
6C is the third rendering.
The picture of the Misses base size 12 bias grain dress is repeated in the tables
for ease in visual comparison. The base size 12 bias grain dress was draped three
times. This Misses base size 12 bias dress pattern is the same pattern that is used as the
basis for grading with the different grading procedures: center grade reference line,
grainline grade reference line, and center grade reference line with a fixed angle.
Table 13 displays the front view the snap shot of the parametric model wearing
the lengthwise grain dress in size 6, size 12 and size 22. Each dress was removed
from the parametric model, and the process was repeated until there were three
separate renderings (A, B, C). Table 14 displays the front view snapshot of the
parametric model with the bias grain dress and the center reference line graded to size
6, the Misses base size 12 and graded size 22.
82
Table 13. Front View: Lengthwise Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference
View
Size 6
Size12
Size 22
A
B
C
83
Table 14. Front View, Bias Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference
View
Size 6
Size
Misses
base
Size 12
Size 22
A
B
C
84
Table 15. Front View: Bias Grain Dress with Grainline Reference
View
Size 6
Misses
base
Size12
bias
grain
copy
Size 22
A
B
C
85
Table 16. Front View: Bias Grain Dress with Center Grade Reference and Fixed
Angle
View
Size 6
Misses
base
Size12
bias
grain
copy
Size 22
A
B
C
86
Table 17 shows the circumference measurements of the parametric model at
three circumferences on the body: bust, waist, and hips. The OptiTex™ software
calculates the circumference of both the body and the garment. The difference
between the two is labeled as ease. The table includes all the lengthwise and bias
grain orientations and the bias dress grading methods. The Misses base size 12 dress
is represented in the lengthwise grain and the bias grain in the center grade method.
Table 17. Difference Between the Body and the Garment: Ease
Grain
Grade
Size
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
Bust
body
32.50
32.50
32.50
36.00
36.00
36.00
45.00
45.00
45.00
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
Centered
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
32.50
32.50
32.50
36.00
36.00
36.00
45.00
45.00
45.00
33.75
33.75
33.75
37.25
37.25
37.25
46.00
46.00
46.50
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.25
1.00
1.00
1.50
24.00
24.00
24.00
27.50
27.50
27.50
36.50
36.50
36.50
32.25
32.00
32.50
35.75
35.25
35.50
44.00
44.25
44.25
8.25
8.00
8.50
8.25
7.75
8.00
7.50
7.75
7.75
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Grainline
Grainline
Grainline
Grainline
Grainline
Grainline
Grainline
6A
6B
6C
32.50
32.50
32.50
36.00
45.00
45.00
45.00
33.75
34.25
34.25
1.25
1.75
1.75
33.50
33.50
33.50
9.50
9.50
9.50
46.00
46.00
46.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
24.00
24.00
24.00
27.50
36.50
36.50
36.50
42.75
42.25
41.75
6.25
5.75
5.25
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
Center + Fix
6A
6B
6C
33.75
33.75
33.75
1.25
1.25
1.25
32.25
32.25
32.50
8.25
8.25
8.50
46.00
46.00
46.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
24.00
24.00
24.00
27.50
36.50
36.50
36.50
44.25
43.75
44.00
7.75
7.25
7.50
12
22A
22B
22C
12
22A
22B
22C
32.50
32.50
32.50
36.00
45.00
45.00
45.00
garment
33.25
33.25
33.25
36.75
36.75
36.75
46.00
45.75
45.75
ease
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.75
0.75
Waist
body
24.00
24.00
24.00
27.50
27.50
27.50
36.50
36.50
36.50
garment
33.25
33.25
32.75
36.75
36.50
36.75
45.00
45.75
45.50
ease
9.25
9.25
8.75
9.25
9.00
9.25
8.50
9.25
9.00
Hips
body
35.50
35.50
35.50
38.00
38.00
38.00
47.00
47.00
47.00
garment
38.00
38.75
38.75
42.25
42.00
42.25
51.25
52.14
52.00
ease
2.50
3.25
3.25
4.25
4.00
4.25
4.25
5.14
5.00
35.50
35.50
35.50
38.00
38.00
38.00
47.00
47.00
47.00
39.00
38.50
38.25
41.50
41.75
41.25
50.25
50.25
51.00
3.50
3.00
2.75
3.50
3.75
3.25
3.25
3.25
4.00
35.50
35.50
35.50
38.00
47.00
47.00
47.00
38.50
38.75
38.50
3.00
3.25
3.00
49.75
49.50
48.75
2.75
2.50
1.75
35.50
35.50
35.50
38.00
47.00
47.00
47.00
38.25
38.25
38.25
2.75
2.75
2.75
49.50
50.50
50.50
2.50
3.50
3.50
.
Table 18 shows the hemline contour data which are comprised of the area and
perimeter of the draped pattern. The OptiTex™ software will positioned the
87
parametric model and the garment in six standard positions: front view, rear view, left
view, right view, bottom view, and upper view. The bottom view option was used to
capture the contour of the hemline. The view is looking from the floor up into the
dress. The parametric model can be hidden from view leaving just the draped
garment. The garment was then converted to spring view to provide more contrast for
measuring the perimeter and area. A ‘snapshot’ was taken of each dress rendering
from this perspective.
88
Table 18. Area and Perimeter of Draped Pattern Hemline Contour
Optitex jpeg>Live Trace Adobe Illustrator>AutoCAD
Grain
Grade
Size
AREA
PERIMETER
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
19.7134
18.7628
20.1402
20.8345
20.522
23.1454
25.3701
27.2785
28.2994
18.1998
18.1276
18.2214
18.6332
18.5392
18.4846
20.2022
20.5189
20.1509
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
17.0305
16.5330
15.8219
16.8907
15.2622
16.2898
18.6634
20.4633
17.9394
18.3634
17.5750
17.6714
18.4202
17.9003
17.8430
18.0066
19.5582
19.6057
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
x Grainline Grade
6A
6B
6C
12
22A
22B
22C
14.5962
15.7043
16.3336
17.5654
17.4522
17.4791
18.6655
19.6832
16.4586
18.061
19.3677
19.0371
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
6A
6B
6C
12
22A
22B
22C
16.4185
17.3254
16.6689
17.5348
17.6176
17.5131
19.481
19.9081
19.9648
19.5625
19.4231
19.5478
89
Table 19. Hemline Contour: Lengthwise Grain, Center Grade Reference
Size 12A
12B
12C
Front
Size 6A
6B
6C
Front
Size 22A
Front
22B
22C
90
Table 20. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Center Grade Reference
Size 12A
12B
12C
Front
Size 6A
6B
6C
Front
Size 22A
Front
22B
22C
91
Table 21. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Grainline Reference
Size 6A
6B
6C
Front
COPY BIAS 12A
12B
12C
Front
Size 22A
Front
22B
22C
92
Table 22. Hemline Contour: Bias Grain, Center Grade Reference with Fixed Angle
Size 6A
6B
6C
Front
COPY OF BIAS 12A
12B
12C
22B
22C
Front
Size 22A
Front
93
The visual differences in seam placement that were determined by recording
the placement of the seamline in each rendered garment are shown in Table 23. The
garment was draped and rendered in OptiTex™ three times for each size: size 6, size
12 and size 22. Each draped garment was saved as a cloth file on the parametric
model. The cloth file is file format that saves the draped garment on the parametric
model. The garment then was converted to spring view which highlights the seams in
green. The orientation of the seam was recorded as it related to the proper placement
of a seam on a correctly fitting garment. The shoulder seam should be centered on top
of the shoulder and side seams should be parallel to the floor.
Table 23. Visual Evaluation of Seam Placement
Grain
Grade
Size
Hemline Left view
Hemline Right View
Shoulder Seam
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
straight
slightly towards back
straight
straight
straight
slightly towards front
straight
straight
straight
straight
straight
straight
straight
straight
straight
hip curve straight at hem
straight
straight but curl at hem
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
center forward
center forward
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
straight
slightly towards back
slightly toward back
slightly toward back
straight
slightly towards back
toward calf below hip
slightly toward back
towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
straight
straight
slightly towards back
toward calf below hip
straight
towards back
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
centered
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
6A
6B
6C
slightly toward back
toward calf below hip
straight
slightly toward back
straight
straight
centered
centered
centered
22A
22B
22C
straight
toward back
toward back
straight
straight
twist toward back
centered
centered
centered
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
6A
6B
6C
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
slightly towards back
centered
centered
centered
towards calf
towards calf below hip
towards calf below hip
towards calf
towards calf
towards calf below hip & curl
centered
centered
centered
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
12
12
22A
22B
22C
94
Table 24 presents the visual differences in the dress appearance. The
difference in angle at the pattern perimeter may not show in the hemline perimeter.
The neckline, left and right armscye shape and the hemline angle to the floor were
evaluated for differences between the Misses base size 12 and the graded size 6 and
graded size 22.
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
x,y
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Center + Fixed Grade
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Bias
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Grainline Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Center Grade
Grade
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Len
Grain
12
22A
22B
22C
6A
6B
6C
12
22A
22B
22C
6A
6B
6C
22A
22B
22C
12B
12C
6A
6B
6C
12A
6A
6B
6C
12A
12B
12C
22A
22B
22C
Size
some gaping
---------gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
---gaping armscye
gaping armscye
gaping armscye
----------------------
higher on right shoulder
---high at left shoulder
high at left shoulder
high at left shoulder
off center to right
---off center to left
off center to left
off center to left
high on shoulder neck point
---------high on shoulder neck point
slight offset towards right
slight offset towards right
higher on right shoulder
scoop back neck rides up near
neck point
---riding up on neckpoint greater
than base size 12
-------
-------------
------------------shifted toward right shoulder
-------
Back Neckline
off center to right
----------
narrower across neck width than
lenghtwise grain dress
----
-------------
---off center toward right shoulder
------------off center toward right shoulder
sag at cf between v and bust
----
Front Neckline
'---- = no noticeable difference compared to base size 12 renderings of same garment grain and grade reference
some gaping
---------gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
---gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
gaping at armcye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
less gaping than lengthwise
grain dress
----
less gaping than lengthwise
grain dress
---slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
slight gaping at armscye
-------------
---more sag in armscye gaping
------------less sag than right armscye
-------
Left Armscye
-------------
------------------more sag in armscye gaping
-------
Right Armscye
Table 24. Visual Differences in Dress Appearance
slight hangup on high hip
slight hangup on high hip
slight hangup on high hip
-------------
------------hem longer on left side
hem longer on left side
hem longer on left side
----------
back 'bubble' from shoulder
blade to high hip.
----
wrinkles above high hip
wrinkles above high hip
wrinkles above high hip
----
----------------------------
Other notes:
95
96
Chapter V Discussion
The discussion of the results is based on the relationship of the fabric grain and
how grading to the size 6 and size 22 was different or similar to the base size 12.
From the data presented for Objective 1 (in Chapter IV Results), it can be seen that
grading a pattern to a smaller size 6 and to a larger size 22 from a base size 12, does
change the pattern angles. Though it was originally thought that angles which were
not perpendicular to the center of the garment might be affected the most with grading,
this was not the case for the selected pattern and the software methods. As shown in
Table 2 and Figure 5, the greatest variation in the garment angle was seen at the
armscye/side seam angle. These angles changed more than four degrees. As found in
the review of literature, a change in angle of more than four degrees will change the
drape of the fabric (Orzada, 2001).
The change in angle at grade points 5 and 13, the sideseam/armscye
intersection, was consistently larger than four degrees in both the size 6 and size 22 for
total internal angles. The angle measurement to the grainline shows that in both size 6
and size 22 in the lengthwise grain dress the change in angle was in the curve of the
armscye rather than in the curve of the side seam.
This change in the shape of the armscye curve also is seen in the bias grain
dress with the center reference line. In addition, the angle to the grainline also was
more than four degrees in the armscye curve of point 6 and point 12 on the front of
this bias dress in only the size 6. The size 22 maintained the armscye curve at the
97
armscye grading points 6 and 12. The size 22 bias dress with the center reference line
did not maintain the total internal angle in the v-neckline. The difference in total
internal angle in the v-neckline was then divided between the two sides of the
garment. This resulted in a change of angle less than four degrees to the grainline.
These measurements in the armscye and neckline may not directly affect the shape of
the hemline contour.
The shoulder/neckline (points 8 and 10) did have some changes in the size 22
dress in both the lengthwise and bias grain orientations. These changes were smaller
than four degrees and were in the curve of the neckline rather than in the shoulder line.
The shoulder is considered to have a substantial influence on the drape of a garment as
the garment hangs from the body at the shoulders. The grading for this garment did
not produce any measurement greater than four degrees at any shoulder intersection.
The variation in grading using alternative grade reference lines (in Objective 2)
with the bias grain dress did result in some differences between the bias dresses with
the center grade reference. The bias dress with the grainline as the reference angle was
included to examine the application of grade rules without regard to the center of the
pattern. In this pattern it is clear where the center of the pattern is due to two pattern
pieces and the symmetrical shape of the pattern. Grade rules are derived by
apportioning measurements that correspond to the length, girth, or circumference of
the body. When the pattern position does not correspond in a linear regard to these
body measurements, the assumption is that the grade rules cannot be correct. The
obvious error is that the pattern would not sew together as the seamlines are not
98
changing symmetrically. On this pattern the front and back bias grainlines are
‘mitered’ rather than spiraling because the grainline is placed in an opposite direction
front and back, the pattern can be sewn together. The application of the grade rules
with the pattern oriented to the grainline skewed the pattern in a manner that the
seamlines that sew together were skewed in the same direction for front and back.
After grading patterns the seamlines need to be checked and ‘walked’ to make sure the
grade has been applied correctly and the corresponding pattern seamlines have not
been altered.
The internal angle measurements on the bias dress with the grainline reference
have large variations. The largest is a 17.6 degree difference between the size 22 and
the size 12 on the back dress at the armscye/sideseam (point 13). The opposite point
on the back pattern, point 5, does not have this large a difference, and is only 3.5
degrees from the base size 12. This difference in shape in the pattern perimeter is
obvious in Figure 17 and Figure 18.
The bias dress with the center reference and fixed angle is a combination of
grading procedures designed to maintain the angle to the grainline at the grade point.
The fixed angle was applied after the center reference grade was applied. The fixed
angle forces the intersection to stay at the base size angle. The software does this
automatically and cannot keep the angle perfectly positioned in all cases. The total
internal angle is half a degree or less different at all grade points. When looking at the
angle to the grainline, some measurements are greater than 1 degree. All of the
measurements involved the armscye curve. The sideseam/armscye, (points 5, and 13);
99
the armscye (points 6 and 12); and armscye/shoulder (points 7 and 11) had variation
greater than 1 degree in the angle to the grainline. The back dress in size 22 had the
largest difference of 2.4 degrees at the shoulder/armscye (point 7). When using fixed
angles for grading, the curve of the armscye can accommodate a change in a way that
a straight line such as the shoulder seam cannot. This may not be noticeable in a
sleeveless garment, but in a garment with sleeves a change in the shape of the armscye
curve can change the fit of the sleeve. While the computer software can smoothly
shape curves, it is up to the operator to understand the actions that result from using a
selected tool. It could be argued that the center grade reference line with a fixed angle
method is most similar to hand grading where the base size pattern is used to mark off
grade point on additional sizes.
The hang or drape of the garment was evaluated in Objective 3. There were
three visual evaluations: the overall look of the garment on the parametric model, the
inspection of the seamlines in spring view, and the shape of the hemline contour. The
circumference measurements also were also taken at the bust, waist, and hips to
calculate how the ease of the garment changed between grainline orientation and
grading procedures. The hemline contour ratios of the hemline perimeter and hemline
area were calculated with the expectation that the drape of the garment should have
similar ratios in all sizes.
The garments were draped on the parametric model, and the model was saved
for further review. The software does not always complete the rendering successfully.
The decision was made not to repeatedly drape the garment to get three successful
100
drape renderings but to drape each garment three times. An unsuccessful rendering is
one that contains fabric that has not completed the drape as expected. This is most
evident in the third drape rendering of the bias grain dress with the grainline grade
reference line, 22C, presented in Table 14 and Table 20. This data from the size 22C
rendering of bias grain dress with grainline reference line was included and averaged
into the quantitative data for the hemline contour, and the circumference ease
measurements.
The front view snapshot of each dress was recorded and is presented in Table
13 through Table 16 as a two dimensional representation of the three dimensional
model. Overall the renderings of the garments show fabric drape that is similar
between sizes. There is as much variation in the drape within a single size with the
same grade reference. The snapshots do show enough detail to see the folds and the
position of the drape of the fabric on the front of the body. There is no substantial
visual difference between the base size 12 and the size 6 or size 22 in the lengthwise
grain dress and the bias grain dress with the center grade reference line and the center
grade reference line and a fixed angle.
The bias grain dress graded with the grainline reference has more visual
difference between the base 12 and both the size 6 and the size 22. In the three
dimensional review, the size 22 dress was shifted on the body and while the shoulder
seam was centered on top of the shoulder, the dress was noticeably off center of center
front and center back at the neckline. The hem also was longer on the left side than
the right side. There could be various reasons for this. In looking at the shape of the
101
pattern in Figure 17 and Figure 18 the hem would be expected to be different lengths
on the right and left sides of the garment. There is also the shift of the pattern through
the grading process. The grade of the pattern with the grainline reference line tilted the
pattern from the centered orientation. Because of this the pattern needed to be rotated
when placed into position on the parametric model for rendering. Operator error
could contribute to the drape of the pattern being off center on the parametric model.
The bias dress with the grainline reference line grade is interesting because the
seams from the sideseam/armscye point to the hemline are perpendicular to the floor
in two renderings, size 6C and another in the size 22A. All the bias dresses use the
same base size 12 bias dress as the basis from which the grade is calculated. Only one
of the renderings of the base size bias dress, 12B, had side seams perpendicular to the
floor, though the dress pattern was tested for this at the beginning of the study. No
other renderings of the bias dress had both side seams perpendicular to the floor. The
criteria for fit in this study included having side seam perpendicular to the floor so it is
curious that grading the bias dress according to the grainline reference line met the fit
criteria at the side seams.
When a garment is graded, the ease, the distance between the body and the
garment, should remain the same. The grading does not add ease to the garment as
grading increments are based on the change in body dimension between the sizes.
The lengthwise grain dress has a mean ease of .78 inches at the bust
circumference with a standard deviation of .083. The waist circumference in the
102
lengthwise grain dress has a mean ease of 9.06 with a standard deviation of .273. The
hip circumference has a mean ease of 4.00 inches with a standard deviation of .875.
If the lengthwise grain dress is used as the standard for ease, it can be seen that
the bias dress does not keep the standard ease in the same proportion throughout the
garment. The ease in the bias dress is harder to asses as the ease can move with the
bias stretch of the garment. The mean ease in the bust circumference of all 21 of the
bias dress renderings is 1.21 inches with a standard deviation of .228. The mean ease
of the waist circumference is 7.86 inches with a standard deviation of 1.09. The mean
ease of the hip circumference is 3.07 inches with a standard deviation of .513.
The mean ease differences at the bust circumferences are similar on the
lengthwise grain and bias grain orientations. The bias dresses have smaller mean ease
differences on the waist circumference and the hip circumference than the lengthwise
dress.
The drape of the fabric on the bias dress causes a bubble of excess fabric to
form at the back of the dress between the shoulder blades and the high hip level. In
the size 6 bias dresses the fabric pools above the high hip causing wrinkles to form.
The base size 12 and the size 22 have the same excess fabric but the fabric does not
wrinkle at the high hip. It is harder to control the ease placement in the bias grain
dress due to the drape of the fabric. This ability for the fabric to stretch with the body
may accommodate different body shapes, but it is harder to predict the visual outcome.
From the shape of the hemline contour it can be seen that the size 6 garment
and size 22 garments have some similarities and some differences. One similarity in
103
all the garments is the presence of nodes at the side seam points on the hemline
contour. The hemline contour of the lengthwise grain dress includes folds or nodes at
the hemline in the front arc of the garment. The nodes in the back of the dress are
more likely to be spaced further apart than in the front.
The mean ratio of the hemline contour was calculated for each grading
procedure. The ratio is the area of the hemline contour divided by the perimeter of the
hemline contour. For the lengthwise grain dress, the mean ratio of the hemline
contours are listed for the respective sizes: size 6 is 1.074 with a standard deviation of
.034; the base size 12 dress is 1.159 with a standard deviation of .080; size 22 is 1.33
with a standard deviation of .07. The ratio is larger as the size gets larger.
The bias dresses have similar nodes at the hemline. The shapes of the folds at
hemline were sharper in the bias direction than the dress with the lengthwise grain
direction, including the nodes at the side seam hemline contour.
The mean ratios of the hemline contour for the bias dress with the center
reference are listed for the respective sizes: size 6 is .92 with a standard deviation of
.02; size 12 is .8942 with a standard deviation of .03; and size 22 is .99 with a standard
deviation of .07. The mean ratio for the size 6 dress is larger than the base size 12.
The mean ratios of the hemline contour for the bias dress with the grainline
reference are listed for the respective sizes: size 6 is .88 with a standard deviation of
.05; the size 22 is .97 with a standard deviation of .09.
The mean ratio of the hemline contour for the bias dress with the center
reference and a fixed angle are listed for the respective sizes: size 6 is .957 with a
104
standard deviation of .02 and size 22 is 1.01 with a standard deviation of .01. Again
the size 6 mean ratio is larger than the base size 12 mean ratio of .8942.
These ratios are explaining the relationship between the shape of the hemline
and the drape off of the body. The lengthwise grain dresses have a ratio greater than
one, as the area of the hemline contour is consistently larger than the perimeter. The
drape of the bias grain collapses the fabric and the measured perimeter of the bias
dress is larger than the area in 15 out of 21 instances, or 71% of the time in the bias
renderings of the hemline contour.
More data would be needed to make any
conclusions about the statistical relationships between the drape, hemline contours and
the grading method.
105
Chapter VI Conclusions
The overall purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between
fabric grain orientation and pattern grading and whether grading changes the drape of
the garment. Should the orientation of the fabric grain be considered when a pattern is
graded? Does grading distort the fabric grain to where the design and fit are affected
by grading?
From the literature review, it was determined that grading to extreme sizes was
not recommended since the design and drape of the garment could be distorted (Mullet
et al. 2009; Bye & DeLong, 1994). Other researchers found that grading distorts the
fit of the garment and suggested that a customized fit was a solution for sizes in a
garment style (Schofield & LaBat, 2005a). However, manufacturers continue to grade
patterns because it saves time and costs less to produce the multiple sizes needed in
production. This study used the PS 42-70 anthropometric data to develop parametric
models for sizes Misses 12, Missies 6 and Misses 22. A Misses size 12 dress was
developed and fit to the size 12 parametric models.
In this study a parametric model was developed in OptiTex™ (TM) software
to represent the Misses size 12 fit model. A dress pattern was then created and fit to
this model. Using the PS 42-70 grade guide, the size 6 and 22 parametric models were
developed and the dress pattern graded. Different fabric grainlines and grade reference
lines were used to determine the influence of traditional x and y coordinate grading
methods on pattern shape and garment drape. A bias grain was used to determine if
traditional x and y coordinate grading methods were appropriate for bias garments. It
106
was thought that a bias garment would need new grade rules since the stretch of the
bias could affect the overall fit and hang of the garment.
Data were collected that related to the angle of the fabric grain and the pattern
angles at grade points. Two grain angles were used: lengthwise grain at center of the
garment, and the bias grain at the center of the garment. The total internal angle and
the angle to the grainline were measured at 15 grade points on the perimeter of the
pattern. Data were collected for the bias grain dress using alternative grade reference
lines that included the grainline reference line and a center grade reference line with a
fixed angle. The two dimensional dress pattern was converted to three dimensional
garments using OptiTex™ software. The three dimensional renderings were evaluated
for fit using seamline placement. The drape of the three dimensional renderings were
evaluated by visual examination of the garment on the model and the projection of the
hemline contour.
From the data, it appears that traditional grading methods and grading to larger
and smaller sizes does not substantially affect the fit or drape of the garment when a
center grade reference line is used. The center grade reference line in both the
lengthwise and the bias dress was sufficient to produce additional garments that were
similar to the base size pattern. Fixing the angle at the grade point after using the
center grade reference line produced hem contours that were most similar to the base
size pattern, but fit as determined by the seam placement did not indicate a benefit for
using this method. The data does show that the angle to the grainline is changed by
grading but it could not be determined when the angle changed the drape of the
107
garment. The fit and drape of the original base size garment had the greatest influence
on the fit and drape of the derived sizes. Therefore, if the garment grading increments
are based on anthropometric data, the fit and drape should be acceptable for
individuals that are represented in the size data.
Limitations
One garment pattern was developed and tested for this study. The simple
pattern shape used for this study is not representative of most garment patterns and
results from this study cannot be generalized to other patterns.
The operator may be an influence in the results of the three dimensional
rendering. The operator places the garment upon the parametric model and positions
the garment by movement of the mouse. The operator cannot know if the placement is
the same in repeated renderings.
Three dimensional apparel design using computer software is still in
development. The OptiTex™ 11 beta software focused on improved drape
characteristics, which is why the version of the software was updated in the study.
The software is assumed to accomplish the renderings accurately. There were some
drape failures where the fabric did not display as expected.
108
Recommendations for Further Study
This study was an exploratory investigation of pattern grading and fabric grain.
Additional studies in the following areas would result in clarification of questions
arising from the current research:
•
Examination of the drape when grading garments with details that have an
obvious need for alternative grade reference lines such as a Magyar type
kimono sleeve, a shawl collar, or circular hemlines.
•
Close fitting garment or garments with sleeves may have more noticeable
issues with grainline grading at the armscye.
•
Different fabric characteristics may influence the drape of the fabric with the
same pattern shape. Fabric with varying drape characteristics could be studied
for drape variability on specific pattern shapes.
•
The location of the zero point on the pattern may change the grade of the
pattern Additional study of whether the drape of the garment changes when the
zero point is moved is needed.
•
Investigation of the variation in the drape of the same pattern, same fabric,
same grainline and same size.
•
The grainline angle to the seamline rather than the angle at the grade point
could be a better predictor of the drape of the fabric in the garment.
•
Comparison of the results of the 3D renderings with the sewn garments would
give more information about making decisions based on the 3D renderings.
109
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113
APPENDIX
o
o
o
o
*
*
*
*
+
*
+
*
+
*
*
Underbust
BUST
WAIST
HIPS
Over Bust
Height
OutSeam
Inseam
Cross Shoulders
Shoulder Slope
High Hip
Thigh (max)
Knee
Low Thigh (mid)
Calf
Ankle
Foot Len
Foot Instep
Bp to Bust Point
Armscye Depth
Armscye Circumference
Waist to Hip
Biceps
Upper Biceps(upper arm)
Elbow
Wrist
Base Neck
Neck
Arm Length(combined)
Cervical Height
Bust Height
Underbust Height
Hip Height
High Hip Height
Knee Height
Low Thigh Height
Calf Height
Ankle Height
Back Waist Length
Front Waist from CF
Vertical Trunk
Crotch Height
Waist Height
Shoulder Length
26.300
32.500
24.000
35.500
30.760
65.000
40.280
30.130
13.920
1.840
29.650
18.780
12.920
16.660
12.730
7.440
8.500
10.510
6.590
6.700
16.000
7.7
8.98
9.45
8.92
5.13
14.65
10.76
22.18
55.75
8.49
44.41
32.84
37.38
19.84
24.83
12.82
5.33
15.66
13.04
Eva
6
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.500
0.250
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.125
0.250
0.250
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.250
0.000
1.000
0.750
0.375
0.500
0.375
0.250
1.000
1.000
1.000
8
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.500
0.250
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.125
0.250
0.250
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.250
0.000
1.000
0.750
0.375
0.500
0.375
0.250
1.000
1.000
1.000
to
10
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.625
0.250
0.375
0.375
0.250
0.125
0.500
0.375
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.375
0.000
1.500
1.000
0.500
0.750
0.500
0.250
1.500
1.500
1.500
to
30.00
36.000
27.500
38.000
34.000
66.500
41.400
30.500
14.790
1.840
33.150
21.280
14.170
18.410
13.980
8.190
8.500
10.610
7.340
7.070
17.620
8.450
9.850
10.390
9.420
5.500
15.650
11.640
22.740
57.250
8.710
45.540
33.220
38.130
20.220
24.900
13.420
5.330
16.250
13.700
EVA
12
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.625
0.250
0.375
0.375
0.250
0.125
0.500
0.375
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.375
0.000
1.500
1.000
0.500
0.750
0.500
0.250
1.500
1.500
1.500
to
14
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.625
0.250
0.375
0.375
0.250
0.125
0.500
0.500
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.375
0.000
1.500
1.000
0.500
0.750
0.500
0.250
1.500
1.500
1.500
to
16
+ Mullet et al
o Not in Optitex
* Not in PS 42-70
Grade Guide from PS42-70 Appendix B p.23 (table above does not include arc measurements)
5.330
15.500
12.950
32.845
37.380
19.845
6.590
6.695
15.995
7.700
8.975
9.515
8.920
5.125
14.650
10.765
22.178
55.750
65.000
40.275
30.125
13.915
1.840
29.650
18.780
12.920
16.660
12.730
7.440
26.30
32.500
24.000
34.500
6
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.750
0.250
0.625
0.625
0.375
0.125
0.750
0.500
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.500
0.000
2.000
1.250
0.500
1.000
0.500
0.250
2.000
2.000
2.000
to
18
Body measurements derived from the fit model Eva and the PS42-70 grade guide
Appendix
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.750
0.250
0.625
0.625
0.375
0.125
0.750
0.500
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.500
0.000
2.000
1.250
0.500
1.000
0.500
0.250
2.000
2.000
2.000
to
20
0.000
0.250
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.250
0.125
0.750
0.250
0.625
0.625
0.375
0.125
0.750
0.500
0.188
0.500
0.500
0.375
0.125
0.500
0.000
2.000
1.250
0.500
1.000
0.500
0.250
2.000
2.000
2.000
to
22
5.330
17.500
14.950
33.845
39.380
20.845
8.590
7.695
21.120
9.700
12.475
13.015
11.045
6.125
18.900
14.015
23.678
59.750
69.000
43.275
31.125
17.040
1.840
42.150
27.030
16.670
22.910
16.480
9.440
37.71
45.000
36.500
47.000
Eva
22
37.71
45.000
36.500
47.000
41.620
69.000
43.280
31.130
17.150
1.840
42.150
27.030
16.670
22.900
16.480
9.440
9.500
11.440
8.590
7.690
21.120
9.700
12.480
12.920
11.050
6.130
18.900
14.020
23.680
59.750
9.000
47.470
33.850
39.380
20.840
25.480
13.920
5.330
16.620
15.130
114