Textile Fibers and Yarns
Objectives:
• List the main characteristics of natural
and manufactured fibers
• Explain how fibers are marketed
• Summarize the role of leather and fur as
primary materials in fashion
• Describe new fiber innovations
• Explain how fibers are made into yarns
Fiber Categories
• Natural
– Originate from natural sources
– Plant (cellulosic) or animal
(protein)
• Manufactured, synthetic,
or man-made (terms
interchangeable)
– Originate from chemical
sources
– May also be from regenerated
or recycled sources
Natural Fibers
• Cellulosic (from plants)
– Cotton
• From cotton plants
– Flax (linen)
• From flax stems
• Protein (from animals)
– Silk
• From cocoons of silkworms
– Wool
• From fleece (hair) of sheep
or lambs
Textile Terms
• Fibers
– Staple: short fibers
• Usually characterizes a
natural fiber
– Filament: long
continuous fibers
• Usually characterizes a
synthetic fiber (except
silk)
• Denier
– Fiber thickness or
diameter
• Yarns
– Fibers twisted
together
– Ply refers to how
many yarns may be
twisted together
before weaving
• Fabrics
– Yarns woven,
knitted, or fused
together to create
fabric
Cotton
• Cellulosic fiber
• From “bolls” (seed
pods) growing on
bushes
• Comfortable
• Soft and durable
• Absorbent, cool to
wear
• “Environmentally
friendly” cotton can
be grown in a range
of colors
Wool
• Protein fiber
• From sheep
• Worsted wool is
higher quality with
long staple fibers
(over 2 inches)
• Natural insulator
• Will shrink and mat
if washed
Flax (Linen)
Flax is the fiber name;
linen is the fabric name.
• World’s oldest
textile fiber
• Cellulosic fiber from
stem of flax plant
• Stiff, wrinkles easily
• Absorbent, cool to
wear in heat
• Other uses
– Dish towels
– Tablecloths
Other Natural Fibers
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Ramie
Jute
Sisal
Cellulosic
Fibers
Hemp
Raffia
Down feathers
Hair fibers
from
Protein
– Goats
Fibers
– Rabbits
– Camels
Marketing Natural Fibers
• Natural fiber trade
associations:
Natural Fibers r cool
–
–
–
–
Cotton Incorporated
National Cotton Council
Wool Bureau, Inc.
Mohair Council of
America
– International Silk
Association
• Provide fabric libraries
Leather and Fur
• From hides or pelts
(skins) of animals
• Expensive
• Artificial substitutes
available (faux leather
and fur)
• Leather used mainly
for footwear
• Fur used for “prestige”
apparel and
accessories
Manufactured Fibers
• Process
– Raw materials melted
or dissolved to form
thick syrup
– Liquid extruded
through spinneret
– Extruded filaments
stretched and
hardened into fibers
Categories of Manufactured
Fibers (generic groups)
• Generic group: a family
of manufactured fibers
with similar chemical
composition
• Common generic fibers
from chemical or
petroleum products:
–
–
–
–
Polyester
Nylon
Olefin
Acrylic
• Variants: trade or
brand names given
to slightly modified
generic fibers
• Example: ANTRON
nylon used for
hosiery
Manufactured Fibers
• Qualities that are
unique or superior
to natural fibers
– Elasticity
– Nonallergenic
– Strength
– Resistant to
abrasion
• Qualities that may
be less than
desirable
– Feel clammy
because they are
nonabsorbent
– Build up static
electricity
– Susceptible to oil
stains
Other Types of
Manufactured Fibers
• Fibers that come from
a plant (cellulosic)
source; chemically
altered to create new
fibers (regenerated)
– Rayon
– Acetate and Triacetate
– Lyocell
Fiber Innovation and Trends
Plastic soft drink
bottles recycled
into apparel
• Fibers are designed for
specific end-uses
• Polymers (chemical
compounds) are
engineered to meet needs
• “Microfibers” are ultra-fine
deniers that make softer,
more luxurious fabrics
• Spandex added in fiber
blends to make stretchable
fabrics
Marketing Manufactured
Fibers
• Trademarked
variants assure
consumers of quality
• American Fiber
Manufacturers
Association helps
inform the consumer,
maintain government
relations, and
monitor foreign trade
policy
Spinning Fibers into Yarns
• Spinning draws,
twists, and winds
staple, filament, or
blends of both fibers
into long, cohesive
strands or yarns
• Yarns wound onto
bobbins or spools
• Twist may vary,
creating different yarn
properties
Early 18th century
spinning wheel
Yarn Terminology
• Yarn blends
– Combining two or more
fibers into a spun yarn
• Combination yarns
– Contain two or more
plys of different fibers
• Textured yarns
Texturing gives bulk,
stretch, softness, and
wrinkle-resistance to yarns.
– Changing the surface of
a yarn using chemicals,
heat, or machinery
Do You Know . . .
• The American Yarn
Spinners Association
deals with the
government on yarnindustry issues such as
trade laws, customs
regulations, packaging,
labeling, and product
standards.