Chapter 9
Viennoiserie
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.
Introduction
• Viennoiserie is the term used to described yeast
raised breakfast pastry that is enriched and
sweetened
– Non-Laminated Enriched Dough
• Brioche
• Cinnamon Rolls
• Gibassier
– Laminated Dough
• Croissant
• Danish
• Laminated Brioche
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9
An Introduction to Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
• Viennoiserie comes from Vienna, which is the
first place this type of bread was made
9
• It was brought to France in the 18th century by
the Austrian bakers of Marie Antoinette upon
her marriage to the future king of France, Louis
XVI
• Is made throughout the world in all shapes and
varieties
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.
Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
• Choices will have an affect on working
properties of the dough and the final product
• Basic ingredients include flour, water, salt and
yeast
• Common additional ingredients may include
milk, eggs, sugar and butter
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CHAPTER
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
CHAPTER
9
Flour
• Flour must have good quality protein
– Suitable for longer fermentation
• HRW flour is preferable
• HRS may be too high in protein
– Leathery mouthfeel, chewy texture
• Ash content supports fermentation activity and
increases extensibility
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
CHAPTER
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Hydrating Components of Viennoiserie: Water,
Milk and Eggs
• Water, milk or eggs may be used to link flour’s
components
• Choice will effect dough properties and flavor.
• These ingredients are used to control the
dough temperature
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
CHAPTER
9
Water
• Used commonly in Viennoiserie in conjunction
with milk or dry milk powder
• Does not add richness, yet is effective at
hydrating starch and protein
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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9
Milk
• Adds richness, color, nutritional benefits and
flavor
• Lactose and proteins encourage browning; fat
makes dough smoother, finer
• May be used as portion of or all of hydration
(87%)
• Dry milk may be substituted accordingly
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Eggs
• Add flavor, color, nutritional value
• Contain water, fat and protein (hydrate at 73%)
• Using 10-20% water or milk can improve
dough hydration and strength
• Selection may include fresh, pasteurized liquid
eggs or frozen egg products
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Sugar
• Range of use varies/ Croissant vs. Brioche
• Quantity affects mixing, fermentation, baking
temperature and flavor
• Quantities higher than 10% FW merit special
considerations in mixing and fermentation
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Mixing
• Quantities above 10% FW need to be held
back and added in later stages of mixing.
– Protein must be hydrated first
– Sugar weakens the gluten structure and early
additions will require longer mixing times
– Sugar should be added to dough as it develops
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Flavor
• Flavor is dictated by type and quantity of sugar
used.
• Croissants have approx 12% sugar based on
FW but are not “sweet”.
• Other sugars may be used to introduce other
flavors: brown sugar, honey.
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Color
• Primary influence is crust color
• Products with higher quantities of sugar should
be baked at lower temperatures
• Some sugar may change crumb color: brown
sugar, molasses or honey
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Texture and Shelf Life
• Hygroscopic nature helps to attract and retain
moisture
– Creates softer crust and crumb
• Higher quantities increase shelf life of products
– Inverted sugars are sometimes used for this
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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• Yeast
• Osmotolerant yeast is preferred for sweet
yeasted dough.
– Yeast strain that functions well under high osmotic
pressure.
– Ensures consistent fermentation activity and fuller
volume of finished products
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Fat
• Type of fat used affects working properties,
flavor and cost of products.
• Selection of fats include:
– Butter, margarine, roll-in shortening
• Variables include:
– Cost, plasticity, melting temperatures, flavor and
texture
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Application of Fat in Viennoiserie
• Selection of fat is a determining quality for
Viennoiserie
• Fat is used two ways in Viennoiserie:
– In the dough
– For lamination
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Fat in the Dough
• Non-laminated dough:
– Enriches crumb, creates flavor
• Laminated dough:
– Creates extensibility
• Range of usage: 4 – 70%
– As % of fat increases above 10%, special mixing
precautions must be taken
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Fat in the Dough
•
Effects
–
•
Color, flavor, crumb and shelf life
Mixing Considerations
–
Improved mix for 4-12% fat (FW)
–
Intensive mix for ≤ 12%
•
Delay addition of fat until intensive mix
•
Fat should be similar consistency to dough
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Fat for Lamination
• Type of fat will determine temperature for
usage.
• “Dry” butter is favored for higher fat content
and unique flavor (cultured)
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Viennoiserie:
Ingredient Selection and Functionality
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Fat for Lamination
•
•
Quantity of Fat
–
25% of dough weight- Croissant
–
% of fat determines approximate number of folds
required for lamination
Temperature and Texture of Fat
–
Fat must have plasticity
–
Dough made with manufactured fats must be
processes at warmer temperatures
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Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
9
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
• 6 critical steps are required for laminated
dough
– Mixing
– First Fermentation
– Lamination
– Makeup
– Final Proof
– Baking
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Laminated Dough: Mixing
• Has evolved from simple incorporation to
Improved Mix
– Hold back sugar until after incorporation
– Improved Mix provides better volume
– Autolyse is an option
• Increases extensibility
– DDT is 76°F
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Laminated Dough: First Fermentation
• Typical: 2 hours
– 1 hour at room temperature
– 1 hour under refrigeration
• Dough must cool to limit fermentation and to aid in the
lamination process
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Lamination
• The process of enclosing fat in dough and rolling out
and folding the dough to create flaky pastries.
• Key points include:
– The temperature and texture of the dough and fat
– The process of rolling, folding and resting the dough
– How many folds are given to the dough
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Preparing the Beurrage
•
Goal is to create a smooth, even layer of fat
to be enclosed in the dough.
•
This may be done with
–
A butter press
–
A dough sheeter
–
A rolling pin and heavy plastic
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Dough and Butter Characteristics
•
Temperature of Dough and Fat
–
If the fat gets too warm, lamination will suffer
–
The hardness of the dough and fat should be
similar
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Enclosing the Fat into the Dough
•
•
Fat may be enclosed two ways
–
Placing the fat over 50% of the surface area of the
dough
–
Placing the fat over 2/3rds of the surface area of
the dough
Fat and dough layers should be even
thickness and cool
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
Sheeting the Dough and the Folding Process
• Single vs. Double folds
• Resting dough:
– 30 minutes between series of folds.
• Number of folds:
• 3 single folds or 2 double folds are standard for Croissant and
Danish
• Folds should face out when sheeting
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CHAPTER
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
CHAPTER
9
Make-up
• After final resting time, dough can be sheeted
(3 – 3.5 mm), cut and shaped.
• Key points for makeup:
– Work efficiently so dough remains cold
– Relax dough and cut with precision
• Shaping techniques vary by shape
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Egg Washing Pastries
• Light coat of eggwash, two times
• Enhances crust color
• Use caution to not degas the pastry
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
CHAPTER
9
The Final Proof
• Final proof is at least 90 minutes due to
increased sugar
• Proof box at 78°F with 80% humidity is ideal
– If proofing temperature is too high, lamination will
suffer
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Viennoiserie:
Overview of the Laminated Dough Process
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Baking
• After final proof, pastries like Danish are filled as needed.
• Steam encourages oven spring
• A deck or convection oven may be used with good results
• Pastries should be baked quickly to avoid drying the product
• Once baked, laminated pastries should be handled minimally as
they are fragile
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Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
9
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
• Sweet yeasted dough characterized by
– Eggs, milk, sugar and butter
• Examples include
– Brioche, Gibassier, Pannetone, Pan D’Oro
• Process is similar to traditional bread
– Mixing, fermentation, makeup proofing and baking
need to be adapted
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Viennoiserie:
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
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Mixing
• Higher levels of sugar and fat require use of
intensive mix
– Hold sugar back and add after incorporation slowly
– Add malleable fat once dough is fully developed and
mix until incorporated
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Viennoiserie:
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
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First Fermentation
• Typically similar to traditional baking.
• Dough with higher quantities of fat will benefit
from cooling for easier handling
– Brioche
• Some dough may need a fold or two,
depending on the strength of the dough
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Viennoiserie:
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
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Divide, Pre-Shape and Resting Time
• Same theory is applies as for traditional baking
• Preshaping may be tighter or looser,
depending on dough characteristics
• Be cautious to not add too much flour during
shaping sticky dough
• Resting time may be under refrigeration
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Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
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Shaping
• Consider strength of dough when shaping
• After shaping, deposit into mold or onto tray
• Eggwash as needed
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Viennoiserie:
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
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Final Proof
• May vary from 30 minutes to 15 hours
• Sugar, quantity and type of yeast and acidity
affect time
• Temperature should be between 78-80°F
• Higher temperatures may melt fat
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Viennoiserie:
Non-Laminated Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
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Baking
• Most products receive second eggwash before baking
• Baking should be done with stream in deck or
convection oven
• Once baked, pastries should cool before being handled
• Once cool, some pastries may be garnished
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Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
9
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
• Basic process for Viennoiserie can be adapted
to include:
– Preferments
– Autolyse
– Retarding techniques
• These processes will affect the flavor,
appearance and physical qualities of the pastry
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Preferments
• Provide the benefit of a long first fermentation
• Gas and alcohol production
– Production of aromas
• Acidity production
– Increase in strength
– Increase in flavor
– Increase in shelf life
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Prefermented Dough
• Origin
– Developed to compensate for mediocre quality of bread produced
using a straight dough process with a short first fermentation
• Description
– Could be any kind of dough with at least 3 hours of prefermentation
– Regular baguette dough is preferable
• Application
– Wide range of products
– Tradition and practicability
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Sponge
• Origin
– Originally, used as preferment in pan bread production in
England. Also used in the production of sweet dough
• Description
– Stiffer preferment (60-63% hydration)
– Quantity of yeast calculated based on the fermentation time
• Application
– Could be used in many different products
– Use in sweet dough is preferable
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Poolish
• Origin
– One of the first preferment elaborated with commercial
yeast
• Description
– Liquid preferment (100% hydration)
– Quantity of yeast calculated based on the fermentation
time
• Application
– Could be used in many different products
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Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Biga
• Origin
– Originally, used by Italian bakers to reinforce the strength of the
dough
– Nowadays, biga is a generic term for a preferment
• Description
– Very stiff preferment (50% hydration)
– 1% of yeast for 18 hours of fermentation at 60°F
• Application
– Could be used in many different products
– Mostly used in Italian products
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Liquid Levain
• May be used in low quantities in sweet yeasted
dough
• It is often “available” at bakeries
• Usage:
– 10-15% based of FW
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Italian Levain
• Stiff, active levain with mild acidic flavor
• Ideal for Viennoiserie and sweet dough
• Improves:
– Crust color, shelf life, dough strength, fermentation
tolerance, aromas and flavor
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Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Summary of Preferments
• Preferments add flavor and keeping qualities to
Viennoiserie
• Selection may act as a natural way to improve
workability of dough
– Poolish encourages extensibility
– Prefermented dough adds strength
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Retarding Viennoiserie
•
Slowing or stopping the fermentation:
–
Retard in bulk
–
Retard shaped
–
Freezing
•
Freezing in bulk
•
Freezing shaped
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
Retarding in Bulk- Laminated Dough
• Before lamination
–
–
–
–
Fermentation time at room temperature is limited
Dough temperature between 73°F-76°F
Dough is held at 35°F-40°F for 12-18 hours
After retarding, the dough can be laminated as normal
• After lamination
– After retarding final folds are completed; dough can be
shaped, proofed, and baked as normal
– Some folds may be done before retarding
• It is best not to do all folds
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CHAPTER
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
CHAPTER
9
Retarding in Bulk- Non-laminated Dough
• Fermentation time at room temperature is
limited
• Dough temperature between 73°F-76°F
• Dough is held at 35°F-40°F for 12-18 hours
• After retarding, the dough can be shaped,
proofed, and baked as normal
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Retarding Shaped
• Good for laminated and non-laminated dough
• Shaped pastry is placed immediately into the retarder
• Egg washed is used to protect surface of the dough
• Held at 35°F-40°F for 12-18 hours
• Proofed and baked as normal after retarding
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Freezing in Bulk
• Some folds may be completed before freezing
• Last folds are completed after defrosting to
build strength
• Optimum shelf life of one week with no
conditioners
– May notice slower proofing
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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9
Freezing Shaped
• Shaped pastry is placed immediately into freezer
• One week shelf life for optimum results with no
conditioners
– Yeast activity will be negatively affected
– Structure of the dough will suffer
• Pastry is defrosted, proofed, and baked as normal
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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Pre-Proofed Frozen
• Dough is quickly frozen just before optimal proof is
reached
• Shaped pastry is stored in freezer until needed
• May be baked directly from the freezer
• Convenience product: must be eaten soon after
baking, otherwise product stales quickly
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Viennoiserie:
Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie
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9
Retarding Technique Conclusion
• Ideal way to manage production and build
flavor
• Control dough temperature
• Regulate fermentation time
• Regulate shelf life in freezer and product
rotation
• May increase yeast 1.5 – 2 times
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Conclusion
CHAPTER
• Consumers increasingly appreciate quality
Viennoiserie
9
• Attention to fermentation, lamination technique,
makeup and proofing are required to create
consistent product
• The use of alternative processes (preferments,
retarding) can build flavor as well as improve
production
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