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Skin care begins with understanding its
underlying structure and basic needs
You must recognize adverse conditions
 Inflamed skin
 Diseases
 Infectious skin disorders
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Skin care specialists are in high
demand
High end salons/spas
Work less arduous and physically
demanding
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Process that takes many years
Do not necessarily age as your parents
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Genetic aging
 How your parents aged
 Their skin coloring
 Resistance to sun damage
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Gravity
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Facial expressions
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Repeated movements – expression lines
Crow’s feet – eyes
Nasolabial folds – corners of the nose
Scowl lines – between eyes
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Primarily environmental factors
Up to 85% of skin aging
What we choose to put into our bodies
has a profound effect on the over all
aging process
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Sun Exposure
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Tanning= no-no
Daily doses – damaging causing
# 1 cause of premature aging
Use broad spectrum sunscreen every day –
(most makeup has)
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Smoking
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Free Radicals – unstable molecules that cause
biochemical aging
Causes premature wrinkling of the skin
Weakening and contractions of the blood
vessels and small capillaries
Tissues are deprived of essential oxygen
Skin may have a yellow or gray tone to it
and a dullness
 Alcohol
 Causes body to repair itself poorly
 Interferes with proper nutrition
distribution for skin & body tissues
 Over dilates the blood vessels and
capillaries
 Causes capillaries to weaken and burst
 Flushed appearance and blotchy red eyes
 Dehydrates the skin by drawing out
essential water
 Causing the skin to appear dull and dry
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Combination can be devastating to the
skin
Constant dilation and contraction of
capillaries and blood vessels as well as
oxygen and water deprivation quickly
make skin appear lifeless and dull
Difficult for skin to adjust and repair
itself
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Illegal drug use
 Similar effects of smoking
 Interfere with body’s intake of oxygen –
affecting healthy cell growth
 Some can aggravate skin conditions – acne
 Dryness and allergic reactions on skin
surface
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Cumulative stress –
 Causes biochemical changes that lead to
tissue damage
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Poor nutrition – deprives skin of
proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins,
minerals needed
Exposure to pollution – produces free
radicals and interferes with oxygen
consumption
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Outside factors that influence aging
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Sun
Environment
Health habits
General lifestyle
Heredity has little to do with the aging
process when above factors are so
great (15%)
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The sun and its UV rays have the
greatest impact
80 – 85 % of our aging process is
caused by the rays
Collagen and elastin fibers weaken as
we age
 Happens faster when skin is frequently
exposed
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“Aging rays”
90 – 95% rays reach the earth
Rays weaken the collagen and elastin
fibers
Causes wrinkling and sagging in skin
tissues
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“Burning” rays
Affects the melanocytes
 Rays can destroy melanocytes cells so they
can no longer protect the skin
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Do not penetrate as deep as UVA rays
 Can be equally damaging to the skin and
eyes
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UVB rays do contribute to the body’s
absorption of vitamin D
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UVB rays - cause
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Sunburns
Tanning
Majority of skin cancers
Shorter rays that penetrate at the base of
epidermis
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Sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher
Avoid exposure during peak hours (10
am – 3 pm)
Apply sunscreen 30 minutes before
exposure to allow for absorption
Reapply sunscreen after water activity
and sweating
Sunscreen should be full or broad
spectrum to filter both UVA & UVB rays
– check expiration dates
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Avoid exposure for children under 6
months
Wear protective clothing
See Dermatologist regularly if changes
in moles
 Coloration
 Size
 shape
Self-care examinations
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Air pollutants affect the overall
appearance and health
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Factories
Auto exhaust
Secondhand smoke
Speeds up the aging process
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Follow daily skin routine
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Washing
Exfoliating - Removes dead skin cells
Moisturizers
Protective lotions
Foundation
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Objective symptoms
Symptoms that can be seen
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Subjective symptoms
Symptoms that are those that can be felt
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Prognosis
Foretelling of probable course of a disease
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Diagnosis
Recognition of a disease by its symptoms
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Dermatitis Venerate – allergies
developed to ingredients in:
 Cosmetics
 Antiseptics
 Cold waving lotions aniline derivative tints
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WEAR GLOVES
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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An inflammation of the skin caused by
contact with chemicals or substances
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Develops an allergy to an ingredients or
a chemical by repeated skin contact
Sensitization –
 An allergic reaction created by repeated
exposure to a chemical or substance
 Fingers
 Face
 scalp
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When irritating substances temporarily
damage the epidermis
Not usually chronic if precautions are
taken
Corrosive substances or exfoliants
 Inflammation, redness, swelling , itching,
burning
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WEAR GLOVES!!!!! Or use tongs!!!!!!
Hand washing causes dryness and
cracking – use moisturizers
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Keep implements and surfaces clean
and disinfected
Wear gloves
Keep hands clean and moisturized
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You must be prepared to recognize
certain skin conditions
Know what you can and cannot work on
If you see a skin condition you do not
recognize – refer to a physician
DO NOT serve a client who has an
inflamed skin disorder
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Lesion – is a mark that may indicate an
injury or damage that changes the
structure of tissues or organs
 Primary
 Secondary
 Tertiary
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Different color or raised above surface
Bulla – A large blister containing a
watery fluid
Cyst – A closed, abnormally developed
sac, containing fluid, semifluid or
morbid matter
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Macule – A spot or discoloration on the
skin – freckle
Nodule – a solid lump larger than .4
inches, can be easily felt
Papule – A pimple, contains no fluid but
may develop pus
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Pustule – An inflamed pimple containing
pus
Tubercle – An abnormal rounded, solid
lump
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Tumor – A swelling; an abnormal cell
mass resulting from excessive
multiplication of cells, varies in size,
shape and color
Vesicle – A small blister or sac
containing clear fluid –
 Ex: poison ivy , poison oak
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Wheal – An itchy swollen lesion that
lasts only a few hours
 Ex: insect bite, urticaria (skin allergy),
hives, mosquito bite
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Those that develop in the later stages
of disease:
Crust - Dead cells that form over a
wound or blemish while it is healing
 Ex: scab on a sore
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Excoriation – A skin sore or abrasion
produced by scratching or scraping
 Ex: brush burn
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Fissure – A crack in the skin
 Ex: chapped lips or hands
Keloid – A thick scar
 Scale – Thin plate of epidermal
flakes, dry or oily
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 Ex: dandruff
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Scar – Cicatrix – Light colored,
slightly raised mark formed after an
injury or lesion of the skin has healed
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Ulcer – An open lesion on the skin or
mucous membrane of the body,
accompanied by pus and loss of skin
depth
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Open Comedo/Comedone – Blackhead
– a wormlike mass of hardened sebum
in a hair follicle – keratin and sebum
 T-zone
 Sebum exposed to environment, oxidizes
and turn black
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Closed Comedo Milia – Whiteheads
Should be removed under sterile
conditions using proper extraction
procedures
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Milia – Whiteheads – benign, keratin
filled
 small, whitish, pear-like masses in/under
the epidermis
 due to retention of sebum
 associated with fine-textures, dry skin types
 Sesame seed –round
 Eyes, cheeks, forehead
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Acne – A skin disorder characterized by
chronic inflammation of the sebaceous
glands from retained secretions,
bacteria – Propionbacterium acnes
 Two Types
 Simple Acne
 Acne Vulgaris
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Sebaceous Cyst – large protruding
pocket-like lesion filled with sebum
 Scalp, back
 Surgically removed
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Seborrheic dermatitis – skin condition
caused by an inflammation of the
sebaceous gland
 Redness, dry or oily scaling, crusting,
itchiness
 Eyebrows, beard, scalp, middle forehead,
sides of nose
 Cortisone creams, antifungal medications
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Rosacea – (formerly - Acne Rosacea) is
a chronic congestion appearing
primarily on the cheeks and nose
 Characterized by – redness, dilation of
the blood vessels and the formation of
papules and pustules
 Cause unknown
 Aggravated by: spicy foods, caffeine,
alcohol, exposure to extremes of heat
and cold or sunlight, and stress
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Asteatosis – Is a condition of dry, scaly
skin due to a deficiency or absence of
sebum, caused by old age and
exposure to cold
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Steatoma – (Wen) Is a sebaceous cyst
or fatty tumor, filled with sebum and
ranges in size from a pea to an orange
 Usually appears on the back, neck or scalp
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Anhidrosis – Deficiency in perspiration
 Result of a fever or certain skin diseases
 Requires medical attention
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Bromhidrosis – Foul smelling
perspiration
 Usually more noticeable in armpits and feet
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Hyperhidrosis – Excessive sweating
 Cause by: heat or general body weakness
 Medical attention is required
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Miliaria Rubra – Prickly heat – heat rash
 Characterized by: eruption of small red
vesicles and accompanied by burning,
itching skin
 Caused by: exposure to excessive heat
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Dermatitis – Inflammatory condition of
the skin
Eczema – An inflammatory, painful
itching disease of the skin
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Forms: dry or moist
Must be referred to a physician
Cause unknown
Not contagious
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Conjunctivitis
 Pinkeye
 Bacterial infection of the eyes
 Products or implements touching infected
eyes MUST be thrown away
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Herpes Simplex – Fever blister or cold
sore; recurring viral infection
 Characterized by: eruption of a single
vesicle or group of vesicles on a red swollen
base
 Lips, nostrils, other parts of face
 IT IS CONTAGIOUS!
 Virus remains in person’s body!
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Impetigo
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Contagious bacterial infection
Weeping lesions
Face (chin area)
Children
VERY CONTAGIOUS!!!!!!!
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Psoriasis – A skin disease
 characterized by: red patches, covered with
white-silver scales
 usually found on the scalp elbows, knees,
chest and lower back
 It is not contagious
 Caused by cells turning over faster than
normal
 Irritated – bleeding can occur
 Not curable
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Albinism – Congenital
leukoderma/hypopigmentation or
absence of melanin pigment of the
body
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Silky hair is white
Skin is pinkish white and will not tan
Eyes are pink
Skin is sensitive to light and ages early
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Dyschromias –
 Abnormal colorations
 Accompany a skin disorder may mean
systemic disorder
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Hyperpigmentation
 Darker than normal pigmentation
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Hypopigmentation
 Absence of pigment
 Results in white or light splotches
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Chloasma – increased pigmentation on
the skin (not elevated)
 Also called moth patches or liver spots
 Cumulative sun exposure
 exfoliation
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Lentigines – singular: Lentigo –
Technical term for freckles developed
by exposure to sunlight and air
Leukoderma – light abnormal patches
 Caused by: burn or congenital disease that
destroys pigment producing cells
 Classified as : Vitiligo and albinism
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Nevus – birthmark
Stain – Abnormal brown or winecolored skin discoloration with a circular
and irregular shape – cause is unknown
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Tan – Change in pigmentation of skin
caused by exposure to the sun or
ultraviolet rays
Vitiligo – Milky-white spots –
 Causes hypopigmented spots and blotches
 must be protected from overexposure to the
sun
 (Michael Jackson claimed to have this)
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Keratoma – An acquired superficial
growth of the skin – many are benign or
harmless
 Callus
 Corn – inward growth
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Mole – A small brownish spot or blemish
on the skin
 Any change in a mole requires medical
attention
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Skin Tag – Small brown or flesh colored
outgrowth of the skin
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Verruca – Wart – Caused by a virus
 Is infectious
 Can spread from one location to another
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Hypertrophy – abnormal growth of the
skin
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Basal Cell Carcinoma – Most common
and least severe
 characterized by: light or pearly nodules
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Squamus Cell Carcinoma – More
serious,
 characterized by: red, scaly, papules or
nodules
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Malignant Melanoma – Most serious
 Characterized by: black or brown patches
on the skin, that may appear uneven in
texture, jagged or raised
 Most commonly located on areas of the
body not receiving regular sun exposure
 Least common, but most serious
• Important for cosmetologists to be able to
recognize the appearance of serious
disorders to better serve clients
• Cosmetologist should not attempt to
diagnose a skin disorder, but should
sensitively suggest the client seek medical
advise from a dermatologist
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A – Asymmetry
B – Border
C – Color
D – Diameter
E - Evolving
www.cancer.org
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Most people have skin care issues at
some point in their lives
Acne is both a disorder an esthetics
issue
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Acne is a disorder affected by 2 major
factors
 Heredity
 hormones
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Retention Hyperkeratosis
 Heredity tendency for acne-prone skin to
retain dead skin cells in the follicle
 Forming an obstruction
 Exacerbates inflammatory acne lesions
 Papules & Pustules
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Skin oiliness is heredity
Propionibacterium acnes are anaerobic
 Bacteria that cannot survive in the presence
oxygen
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Main food source is fatty acids found in
sebum
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Bacteria flourish in clogged follicle
 No oxygen
 Plenty of food (sebum)
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Bacteria multiply
Causing inflammation and swelling
Eventually rupture
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Immune system is altered
Blood rushes to ruptured follicle with
white blood cells to fight bacteria
Causes redness in pimples
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Acne pustule is an inflammatory lesion
resulting from wall rupture and infusion
of blood
Pustule forms from papule when
enough white blood cells form pus
Dead white blood cells
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Use cleaners formulated for oily skin
Follicle exfoliants - leave-on products
to remove cell buildup
 Allows oxygen in to kill bacteria
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Avoid products that contain fatty
materials
 Noncomedogenic – designed and proven to
not clog pores/follicles
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Do not use harsh products – can cause
inflammation and worsen condition
Trained salon and spa professionals can
work over mild to moderate cases of
acne – specialized education
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Rhytidectomy – face lift
Blepharoplasty – Eyelid surgery
Chemical Peeling – Specially formulated
chemical solution is applied to the areas to
be treated
 A technique for improving the appearance when
wrinkles of the skin are present.
 The chemical causes a mild, controlled burn of
the skin
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Rhinoplasty – Plastic surgery of the
nose
Mentoplasty – Chin surgery
Dermabrasion – A technique to smooth
scared skin by “sanding” irregularities
 Performed with a rotary abrasive instrument
that thins the skin, making the sharp edges
of facial scars less prominent
 Micro-dermabrasion – uses a diamond bit to
“sand” off skin – “for younger looking skin”
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Injectable fillers – tiny injections of
collagen may used to raise
depressions closer to normal skin
level
 Used for deep scars, acne scaring, deep
aging lines around the mouth or
forehead
 Ex: Botox