Luxury Hair Color Anti

advertisement
Luxury Hair
Color Manual
Color is an Expressive Tool that will always be
an essential component in a creative process.
Luxury Hair
Color
A New Concept
Luxury Hair Color gives us the opportunity to consider hair coloring from a new
perspective, delivering aesthetic results while the integrity of the hair is kept in
place.
2
Respect for nature
Respect for the
Environment
Respect for the
Hair
Respect for
Hairdressers
The colors have been formulated with the concept of combining nature and
science. The precious ingredients, White Tea and Orchid Butter, profoundly
nourish and illuminate the hair.
United, these ingredients form a complex that has long lasting, anti-age and antipollution properties, which constantly protect the structure of the hair, the color
and shine from the aggression of smog, sun and free radicals.
White Tea & Orchids
3
Luxury Hair Color – Quality in Color
The main aspects of Luxury Hair Color:
The










latest, extremely fashionable shades
Protection of the hair and scalp
Has a delicate perfume
Respects the environment
Practical and easy to use
100ml Tube
Dilution ratio 1+2
100% coverage of white hair
Long lasting color
High lightening power
145 Shades
A unique product for all coloring requirements.
 A revolutionary Double Action formula that can be used in conjunction with
the dye revealer 2.1% as a tone on tone highlight or with the conditioning
oxidative lotions 10, 20, 30 and 40 Volumes for permanent coloring.
 The Luxury Hair Color creams with natural protective components protect
the hair structure during the chemical process resulting in evenness and
durability of color
Covering Power
 The particular emollient qualities of the ingredients and the dilution ratio
make the coloring mixtures easy to apply as the cream obtained has fluid
properties which are better absorbed by the hair. 100% coverage of grey
hair.
4
Luxury Oxidising Milk
 It is a mild chemical combination with non-aggressive properties
 It has a pleasant fragrance (rose fragrance)
 Added protective agents which assist in scalp protection
o Dye Revealer 2.1% - Intermixed with Luxury Hair Color can be used for
tone on tone coloring or color balancing
10 Volume
 Toning
 Level on level coloring
20 Volume
 Two levels of lift
 Grey coverage
 Level on level coloring
30 Volume
 Three levels of lift
40 Volume
 Four levels of lift
The Luxury Hair Color Cream and Oxidising Milk have been made biodegradable in
order to protect the environment. The low ammonia content has been analysed
from a toxicological point of view to guarantee the hairdressers and clients well
being.
Since it has been created, Luxury Hair Color has always operated according to
nature and world laws.
5
Luxury Hair Color Pigmentating Oxidant Emulsion
Available June 2008
Formulated to accentuate the application of the coloring
cream, gel or bleaching powders that contain red pigmentation.
It offers particular advantages such as strengthening the penetration of the colors that contain
red pigments (6, 5, 46, 66, 64 etc.), into the hair stalk, with the coverage of grey hair and in
enhancing the intensity, the reflexes, contrast, brilliance and shine of the color.
Its initial volume and color remains unaltered even after a long periods of time, having been
stabilised and formulated with high quality ingredients.
It is used as a normal oxidant in every coloring treatment where a stronger red reflex is
desired. Follow the instructions of use of the product with which it is to be mixed.
10 Vol.
20 Vol.
30 Vol.
40 Vol.
Luxury Hair Color Anti- Yellow Oxidant Emulsion
A special bleaching and super lightener (series 10 and 11),
emulsion that is ideal for high lights, streaks or complete Available June 2008
bleaching and prevents yellow tones. It has been specially
formulated to be used in combination with the beige, ash and all the cold shades.
It is used as a normal oxidant in every coloring treatment where a stronger high lightening
effect or anti-yellow is desired. Follow the instructions of use of the product with which it is to
be mixed.
10 Vol.
20 Vol.
30 Vol.
40 Vol.
6
Mixing
Tone on Tone Coloring
MIX 1+2
1 Part Luxury Hair Color
&
2 Parts Dye Revealer 2.1%
E.G.
20gm 8.32
&
40ml Dye Revealer 2.1%
TIME
20 minutes
Luxury Permanent Hair Color Cream
MIX 1 + 2
1 Part Luxury Hair Color
&
2 Parts Oxidising Milk
Eg
20gm 8.35
&
40ml Oxidant Emulsion
TIME
30 - 45 minutes
Color Balancing
A translucent result will be achieved when this mix is used. Where reflect requires
enhancing or for toning blondes.
Faded 1 Level
MIX 1 + 3
1 Part Luxury Hair Color
Eg
20gm 10.01
TIME
10 - 20 minutes
&
3 Parts 2.1% Dye Revealer
&
60ml 2.1% Dye Revealer
Faded 2 Levels
Greater deposit will be achieved
MIX 1 + 2
1 Part Luxury Hair Color
&
2 Parts Dye Revealer 2.1%
Eg
20gm 10.003
&
40ml Dye Revealer 2.1%
TIME
10 - 20 minutes
Timing
10 Vol.
10 min. + 15 min.
.= 25 Minutes
20 Vol.
20 min. + 15 min.
.= 35 Minutes
30 Vol.
30 min. + 15 min.
.= 45 Minutes
40 Vol.
40 min. + 15 min.
.= 45 to 55 Minutes
7
Number and Nuance System
Base Levels
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Black
Brown
Dark Brown
Intense Brown
Light Brown
Dark Blonde
Blonde
Light Blonde
Very Light Blonde
Platinum Blonde
NUANCES
The nuances are the dominant reflexes within the color. The warmer nuances
appear lighter and brighter. The cooler nuances can appear darker as they do not
reflect as much light.
Cool Nuances .01
Warm Nuances .003
.03
.32
.23
.73
.35
.3
.33
Red Nuances .34
.4
.6
.5
.2
Ash
Warm Naturals
Natural
Beige
Carioca
Tobacco
Cocoa
Gold
Intense Gold
Gold Copper
Auburn
Red
Mahogany
Iris Violet
The first number preceding the point represents the base level. The numbers
after the point represent the reflexes, the first number being the dominant reflex,
for example -
6. 3 4
Base Level
Dark Blonde
Primary Reflex
2 Parts Gold
Secondary Reflex
1 Part Auburn
8
Eight Luxury Hair Color Corrective Agents
Red
Blue
Yellow
Orange
Green
Violet
Ash
Joker
What are they?
The corrective agents are shades that allow a reflex to be intensified. They must
be used in combination with the selected Luxury Hair Color Color Creams in
proportion of 1 to 10cm of color cream.
When mixing the cream, keep in mind the total amount of grams used, for
example
20g 5.6
+
5g Red
+
50ml 20 Volume
9
Joker
Is an additive cream that provides once extra level of lift when mixed equal parts
with a Luxury Hair Color Cream. With it you can achieve lighter blondes, brighter
reds and lighter browns.
 The Luxury Hair Color Joker contains 100g of product and is marked in 20
gram increments for easy measuring.
 The Joker can be mixed easily with all Luxury colors and can be used with all
the Oxidising Milk.
 It is ideally used for virgin applications and highlighting when extra lift is
required.
 To lighten gold bands;Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Apply Luxury color formula to the new
Growth
Apply Luxury color formula mixed with
Joker onto the gold band
Process for 5 – 15 minutes and check for desired results
MIX
E.G.
10gm 7.4 Luxury Hair Color
&
10g Joker &
40ml Oxidizing Milk
TIME 30 Minutes
10
Super lightners
The super lightners have been designed to achieve maximum lift and deposit in a
single process. They can be used on levels 6 or 7 and are mixed with 30 or 40
volume violet oxidant emulsion for best results.
MIX 1 + 2
1 Part Luxury Super
lighteners
E.G.
20gm
11.1
TIME
40 - 45 minutes
+
2 Parts Violet Oxidising
Milk
+
40ml Violet 40 Volume
Oxidising Milk
If ½ to extra 1 level of lift is required, Joker may be added to the formula
20gm 11.1
Luxury
Super lighteners
+
10g
Joker
+
60ml 40
Volume
Oxidant
Emulsion
If more tone is required add Ash Correctives to formula
20gm
11.1
+
5g Ash
+
50ml 40
Volume
Oxidant
Emulsion
11
PLATINUM BLONDES
10.0
10.1
10.13
10.3
EXTREME BLONDES
Platinum
Platinum
Platinum
Platinum
Blonde
Ash Blonde
Beige Blonde
Golden Blonde
11.0
11.1
11.2
11.3
Extreme
Extreme
Extreme
Extreme
Blonde
Ash Blonde
Beige Blonde
Golden Blonde
N. B. Super lighteners are not recommended to be used as toners or for grey
coverage
The EXTREME BLONDE SERIES is designed to be used on Coarse and hard to
lighten hair.
11.1
11.2
11.3
11.0
Extreme
Extreme
Extreme
Extreme
Ash Blonde
Beige Blonde
Gold Blonde
Blonde
For level
For level
Ideal for
Ideal for
6–7
7
highlighting
highlighting
The PLATINUM BLONDE is ideal for fine textured easy to lighten hair.
10.1
10.13
10.0
10.3
Platinum
Platinum
Platinum
Platinum
Ash Blonde
Beige Blonde
Blonde
Golden Blonde
For level
For level
Ideal for
Ideal for
7&8
7&8
highlighting
highlighting
N. B. When using the platinum blonde series, slightly warmer result will be
achieved.
VIRGIN APPLICATIONS
Step 1
Apply 11.0 Extreme Blonde to mid lengths and ends starting 1cm
away from the scalp
Step 2
Time for 15 minutes
Step 3
Remove excess color from hair by towel blotting
Step 4
Mix a new batch of color in the reflect desired and apply to the scalp
and take through to the mid length and ends
Step 5
Time for 15 – 30 minutes. Check for desired result.
12
Grey Coverage
One of the most frequent color problems we face as hairdressers is the coverage
of white hair. White hair no longer produces melanin which is what gives the hair
its natural color.
Luxury Hair Color offers the added option of three natural bases;Intense Naturals - Natural to Cool result (numbers only e.g. 6, designed for over
50% white)
Warm Naturals
- Natural result (.003 series e.g. 7.003)
Naturals
- Natural Golden Result (.03 series e.g. 8.03)
The mixture of Naturals with warm Golden Colors will provide improved coverage.
White hair absorbs more warmth than natural colored pigments.
The % of white will determine your color formulation. Follow this guide for great
color results;-
30% White
Up to
50%
White
TIME
No Natural Required
1 Part
Luxury Hair
Color
Natural
+
1 Part
Reflect
10ml
6.003
+
10ml
6.6
+
+
2 Parts
Oxidant
Emulsion
40ml 20
Volume
Oxidant
Emulsion
30 – 45 minutes
13
Over
50%
White
2 Part
Luxury Hair
Color
Natural
20ml
8
TIME
+
+
1 Part
Reflect
10ml
8.32
+
+
2 Parts
Oxidant
Emulsion
60ml 20
Volume
Oxidant
Emulsion
30 – 45 minutes
Why is White Hair so difficult to Cover?
Usually because of its structure, which has a tightly packed cuticle layer causing it
to become tenacious and therefore resistant to color. You can identify resistant
white hair due to its glassy shiny appearance.
To assist you in good coverage for resistant white hair;
Change your formulation. Reducing the oxidant emulsion will assist in
improving the penetration process.
Mix 1 + 1½. 40g of Natural + 60ml of 20 Volumes

Extend timing – 45 minutes

Pre-soften, helps prepare the hair to absorb more color
14
PRE-SOFTENING
Is generally used as “Spot” Coloring. It prepares the hair to absorb more color.
Select a Natural or Golden Shade 1 level lighter than the desired result. Mix with
warm water and apply. Next apply the desired color over the top and process for
45 minutes.
PRE-PIGMENTATION
The pre-pigmentation process is designed to re-infuse hair with color pigments
that have been previously lost, due to natural causes such as sun or from
chemical treatments such as coloring, highlighting or perming of the hair.
Without this step the hair could appear dull and drab and color would fade quickly
from the hair.
When Tinting
Back to Level;8
7
6
5
4
1)
2)
3)
4)
Neutral Result
For Reds
¾ 9.33 + ¼ 9.34
¾ 8.33 + ¼ 8.34
7.34
6.34
5.46
9.34
8.43 or 8.52
7.46 or 7.62
6.34 or 6.6
5.46 or 5.6
Apply Mids to Ends – for 15 minutes
Blot excess color off or Rinse and towel dry
Then apply desired color Roots to ends
Time 20 minutes
N. B. Avoid using Ash series or the Intense Naturals as the results on porous
hair will be too cool.
15
Bleaching Powders
Being able to obtain excellent bleaching tones is synonymous to high
technical quality.
Usually, this process is limited according to its potentialities, mainly because the
fear to obtain bad results and/or to ruin the client’s hair stops the hairdresser
proceeding with his/her actions.
With Luxury Hair Color, all these fears disappear: our bleach powders are
perfectly in harmony with the hair structure. However, it is important to know the
right techniques that allow the product to be used at its best.
Notes: With the Compact powder and Ammonia FREE White and Blue, the
dilution ratio is 1 + 2.
Once the mixture is prepared, it must be applied quickly on the hair, in that, the
high lightening power of the bleach powder diminishes after a certain amount of
time. Do not exaggerate in expecting that with just one bleaching process, you
will obtain a high light of 5 or 6 tones. It is better to affect two bleaching
processes with low peroxide volumes than applying just one bleaching process
using the 40 volume peroxide.
Luxury Hair Color offers four different types of bleaching opportunities: Compact
Blue and White and Ammonia Free Blue and White. 5 high lightening tones
are guaranteed when using the Bleach Powders Compact and Ammonia FREE
White. The Compact Powder Blue has a particular ingredient that acts on the hair
avoiding the unpleasant intense yellow tone which is usually seen on the 8, 9 and
10 high light tones. It offers a better powder hydration, a pleasant perfume, it
does not fly in the air and it can be put on the scalp.
Compact Blue
Compact White
Ammonia FREE
Blue
Ammonia FREE
White
16
Color is a Visual Perception
We know that very few substances reflect only one colour of the visible spectrum
and absorb all the others. The majority of bodies reflect a combination of waves
that allows us to perceive the mixed colors we generally see. Our eyes can’t tell
the components of a mixed color, they normally perceive it as a single color and
as an even composition.
COLOR PRINCIPLES
Colors are subdivided into two Groups;-
PRIMARY – All colors are made from 3 primary colors
Yellow
Red
Blue
SECONDARY – Colors are made by mixing equal parts of a primary color
=
+
Yellow
+
Red
+
Blue
+
=
Violet
=
+
Blue
Orange
=
+
Red
=
Yellow
=
Green
17
TERTIARY – Colors are made by mixing equal parts of a primary color with a
secondary color
=
+
Yellow
+
Orange
+
Orange
+
Violet
+
Violet
+
Green
+
Red Violet
=
Blue Violet
=
Blue Green
=
+
Yellow
=
=
+
Blue
Red Orange
=
+
Blue
=
=
+
Red
Yellow Orange
=
+
Red
=
Green
=
Yellow Green
18
Keeping it Simple with Luxury Color
The main factors you need to consider to assist you in making the correct color
choice;-
Texture
Fine – Medium – Coarse
Fine hair penetrates color more easily
Tenacity
Tenacious hair has a tightly packed cuticle layer
which causes it to be resistant and sometimes
difficult to color
Porosity
Porous hair has a damaged, exposed cuticle
layer therefore causing it to penetrate color
quickly.
19



QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF BEFORE YOU BEGIN???
What do I have
to begin with?
Level
What is the Base
Level?
A) Natural or
B) Colored?
What do I want to achieve?
Lift
Desired level;A) Going Darker? or
B) Lightening?
Reflect
Desired Tone;A) Accentuating warmth or
B) Eliminating warmth
How
2
3
4
Helps you decide what
reflect to use.
many Levels?
20 Vol.
30 Vol. or
40 Vol.
How do I achieve the end result?
Clients Natural
Level
Desired Result
Desired Reflect
Formula
6 - Dark Blonde
6 – Dark Blonde
7 – Blonde
6 – Dark Blonde
8 – Light Blonde
5 – Light Brown
10 – Very Light Blonde
8 – Light Blonde
Gold Copper
Mahogany
Platinum Blonde
Cool/Neutral
8.34 + 20 Volume
5.5 + 10 Volume
10.1 + 30 Volume
8.01 + 20 Volume
N. B. The final color result will be a combination of the Luxury Hair Color Cream
and the underlying pigment.
20
Luxury Hair Color Level
Neutralization Chart
PART 1
Natural Color Level & Number
Natural Underlying
Pigmentation
To Neutralize Use
Light Ash Blonde
11
Extreme Blonde
Pale Yellow
10
Intense Platinum Blonde
Pale Yellow
9
Intense Very Light Blonde
Yellow
8
Intense Light Blonde
Gold
7
Intense Blonde
Light Orange
6
Intense Dark Blonde
Dark Orange
5
Intense Light Brown
Red Orange
4
Intense Brown
Red
3
Dark Brown
Red Brown
2
Brown
Dark Red Brown
1
Black
Dark Red Brown
Light Ash Blonde
Light Ash Blonde
Medium Ash Blonde
Dark Ash Blonde
Light Ash Brown
Medium Ash Brown
Dark Ash Brown
Dark Ash Brown
Dark Ash Brown
Dark Ash Brown
Luxury Hair Color Reflect
21
Neutralization Wheel
PART 2
Color Tones which neutralize each other are known as complementary colors
when mixed together in equal proportions they create a neutral result.
Cool Tones
Warm Tones
Green Yellow
Green
Yellow
Yellow Orange
Blue
Green
Orange
Red Orange
Blue
Blue Violet
Red
Violet
Red Violet
Type of Color
22
Temporary
Coloration refers to its short duration and because it does not resist the
shampooing action. This mechanism is very simple: the colored molecules settle
around the hair through chemical bonds (attraction process) creating a resistant
film which has strong similarities with Keratin. This process does not modify the
internal structure of the hair, but brings a different high lightened quality. Some
examples could be the colored lotions, mousse or shampoos. Their action helps to
brighten a faded out or high lightened color, caused by external agents and
deletes undesiderable reflexes on white or bleached hair. The limitation of this
type of coloring, apart from its short duration, is the color is absorbed differently
depending on the porosity of the hair.
Semi Permanent
It is a gentle self penetrating hair color which delivers a natural result. Since no
ammonia is needed, mixing with a developer is required. The color is absorbed to
the outer cortex layer and is slowly washed away with every shampoo. The
results last approximately up to 8 shampoos.
Demi Permanent
It is a combination of deposit only Permanent and semi-permanent color
molecules which are penetrated deeply into the cortex layer. A developer is
needed to activate the pigment formation so the molecules are enlarged and
locked within the hair, assuring long lasting hair color. No lightening of the natural
hair color occurs, although the hair color will fade gradually it does not return to
its original color.
Permanent
Permanent and deposit only. Permanent Hair Color is also known as oxidative hair
color. A developer is needed to activate the color molecule so it is penetrated
deeply into the cortex layer. Enlarged and locked in to guarantee durability of
color.
A permanent color works in two ways;A)
Deposits only to create a new color without altering the natural
underlying pigment.
B)
Lightens 1 to 4 levels while depositing artificial color pigment creating an
entirely new color. The end result is a combination of the natural underlying
pigment and the new color chosen.
23
The Composition of
Permanent Hair Color
Three Integral Parts
BASE
Cream / Gel / Liquid
ALKALINE AGENT
Ammonia
COLOR MOLECULES
Dye Intermediates
BASE
Luxury Hair Color is a light Cream Base enriched with Beeswax and Vitamin C,
protecting and conditioning the hair structure, while delivering durable color
results.
ALKALINE AGENT
Ammonia serves two functions;1) To swell the hair, allowing the color molecules to be deeply penetrated
into the cortex layer of the hair.
2) In combination with a developer it promotes lightening of the natural
hair color.
COLOR MOLECULES
Color molecules are designed to penetrate into the hair cortex, once developed
they are enlarged and form new color molecules which can not be released from
the hair cortex, resulting in permanent hair color.
24
Download