CHAPTER 21
HAIRCOLORING
Haircoloring is
•One of the most creative,
challenging, and popular salon
services
•It is also the most lucrative !
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Add: Haircoloring is both the art
and science of changing the color
of hair.
www.insidesocal.com/bargain/HairColoring
Why people color their hair
Add to side bar: just the #’s
1. Unpigmented hair (graying)
Book: Cover or blend gray
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2. Self-image boost
Book: Enhance an existing color
3. Experimental
Book: create a fashion statement or
statement of
self-expression
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4. Artistic
Book: Correct unwanted tones
nyenoona.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/rainbow-...
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5. . Corrective
Book: Accentuate a particular
haircut
Note: Either list can be used on the
test, your choice
aheadofourtimesalons.com/images/gallery/716-A..
FYI:
“Chlorine green” hair is caused by
copper deposits from the water, that grab
onto the hair. Only very light hair shows
this reaction.
Use a demineralizing shampoo, like
Alternate Action and place
under a dryer or use baking
soda and water to remove
deposits.
media.onsugar.com/.../GreenHair.larger.jpg
Hair Facts
Knowing how products affect the
hair will allow you to make the
best product choices for your
client.
Hair Structure
Quick review of the structure of
the hair.
Q. What is the outer most layer of
the hair called?
Q. What is the purpose of the
cuticle?
Q. List two points about the
cortex.
Q. How much of a role does the
medula play in haircoloring?
Q. Why is texture, density and
porosity factors we must
consider when performing color
services?
Texture: individual hair strand
•Coarse, medium, fine
Melanin is distributed differentlyrefer to Figure 21-3
Fine hair texture
•Takes color faster
•Can look darker
Medium hair texture
•Has average response to
haircolor products
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Coarse hair texture
•Can take longer to process
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Density-hair per square inch
•thin, medium, thick-dense
•Needs to be considered when
applying haircolor
Q. How would this matter, and
what do we need to do?
Porosity-ability to absorb liquid
•Porous hair accepts color faster
~ darker than expected
end result
Q. Explain the step needed to
do the test for porosity
•Resistant hair (low porosity)
~ requires more processing time
•Normal porosity (average)
~ processes in an average
amount of time
•Overporous (high)
~ takes color quickly
~ fades quickly
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Identifying Natural Hair Color and
Tone
Q. What is the 1st thing Mrs. K
and I do prior to creating a
color formula?
Two types of melanin in the
cortex:
•Eumelanin-black and brown
•Pheomelanin-blond and red
•Natural hair color contains
both (Mixed melanin)
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Contributing Pigment
• Known as “undertone”, is the
varying degrees of warmth
exposed during permanent color
or lightening process
• The darker the natural level,the
more intense the contributing
pigment
• Must be taken into consideration
before the haircolor selection is
made
• Haircoloring modifies this
pigment to create new pigment
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The Level System
•Level is the unit of
measurement used to identify
the lightness or darkness
•Saturation, density, or
concentration of a color
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Level system
*use to determine the
lightness or darkness of
colors
•Arranged on a scale of 1-1 0
-1 being the darkest
(black)
-10 being the lightest
(pale blonde)
Add: Value-unit of measurement
to evaluate lightness or darkness
Identifying Natural Level
•First step in haircolor service
•Valuable tool-color wheel
•Use haircolor swatch book
Demonstrate the four steps
Read: Here’s a Tip
10-Lightest Bl.
9- Lt. Blonde
8- Med. Blonde
7- Dk. Blonde
6- Lt. Brown
5- Med. Brown
4- Dk. Brown
3- V. Dk. Br
2- Black
1- Blue Black
Natural Hair
Color Levels
(this is the
number system
Mrs. Kucas and I
follow. Page 632
is a little
different)
Gray Hair
•Associated with aging
~ heredity
•Solid or blended
~ “salt and pepper”
•Requires special attention in
formulating
www.lookbeauty.com/images/Gray-Hair-Styles.jpg
Color Theory
•Color is the visible spectrum of
light
•Human eye only sees red, green, or
blue, or other shades
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•Before applying color products
*have an understanding of
color theory
***All are developed by primary
and secondary color
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•A base color is the predominant
tone of a color
Ex.
Violet base color=cool result
*minimizes unwanted yellow
tones
Blue-base haircolor=coolest results
*minimizes orange tones
Add:
Violet-green-blue=cool tones
Yellow-orange-red=warm tones
***Red-orange base
*bright warm results
***Gold bases
*brunettes to light blondes
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The Law of Color
•Is a system for understanding
color relationships
•When combining colors, you
always get the same result
from the same combination
•Equal parts of:
red and blue always =violet
blue and yellow always=green
red and yellow always=orange
Primary Colors
•Pure colors that cannot be
created by combining other
colors
•All colors are created from these
three primaries…
Blue
Red
Yellow
Primary
Colors
•Predominance of blue
*cool colors
•Predominance of red and or yellow
*warm colors
•Blue is the strongest and the only cool
primary color
*brings depth or darkness to any
color
•Red is the medium primary color
* Red added to blue-based colors
~ appear lighter
•Red added to yellow
~ become darker
Yellow is the weakest of the primary
colors
• yellow added to other colors
~ lighter and brighter
•All three primary colors present in
equal proportions
* the color is brown
Secondary Colors
•Obtained by mixing equal parts
of two primary colors
Green=blue and yellow
Orange=red and yellow
Violet=blue and red
Primary and Secondary Colors
Refer to the color wheel
Tertiary Colors
•Intermediate color achieved
by mixing a secondary color
with its neighboring primary
color on the color wheel in
equal amounts
Blue-green
Blue-violet
Red-violet
Red-orange
Yellow-orange
Yellow-green
*test info*
Q. Why is it necessary to fully
understand the law of color?
A. Natural-looking haircolor is made
up of a combination of primary
colors, secondary colors, and
tertiary colors
Complementary Colors
•Are a primary and secondary color
positioned opposite each other on
the color wheel
•Complimentary color
include blue and
orange, red and
green, yellow and violet and…
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• They neutralize each other
Q.What do we mean neutralize each other?
Complementary colors are used to:
•Neutralize or refine unwanted tones in
the hair
•Help you choose the
correct color
*review reference
guide page 635
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Mrs. Kucas’ great idea
It’s easy to remember the
complimentary colors:
Green-red=Christmas
Blue-orange=almost Halloween
Yellow-violet=Easter
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Tone or Hue of Color
Add: Describes the warmth or
coolness of a color
Tone or Hue of Color
•Answers-which color to use
for clients desired result
•Warm, cool, or neutral
(or tonality)
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•Warm tones look lighter
*gold, orange, red, yellow
Use with clients:
*auburn, amber, copper,
strawberry, bronze
Ex. Our tube says
6 RO=level 6 with red-orange tone
Tell client: dark strawberry blonde
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•Cool tones look deeper
*blue, green, and violet
Use with clients:
*smoky, ash, drab, or
platinum
Ex. 4B
Level 4 brown with a
blue tone
• Natural tones (also called
neutral tones) are warm tones
~ described as sandy or tan
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Intensity-strength of a colors Add:
tonality
• Described as soft, medium, or
strong
• Color intensifiers
Add: color additives
are tones added to a haircolor
formula to intensify the
results (show our intensifiers
• Base color is the predominant
tone of a color
• Identified by a number and letter
• # indicates the level
• Letter indicates the tone
• Ex. 6G
•
Level 6-dark blonde
• With a gold base
• When selecting formula=know
what tone the client likes and
dislikes
*** client will say they do not
want to see red-in many cases
this would include gold (caramel)
• Neutral base colors are used to
cover gray hair.
Types of Haircolor
Four categories:
•Temporary
•Semipermanent
Non-oxidative
•Demipermanent
•Permanent
Oxidative
Add next to nonoxidative:
Vegetable, flowers, herbs, salts
of heavy metal
(veg. tints, metallic dyes,
compound dyes)
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www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou…
•Patch test required for all, except
temporary color
Q. What is the purpose of a patch
test?
Q. Is a patch test required prior to
using lightener (bleach)?
Q. What wording does the
Cosmetology State Law give us
that requires us to patch test
prior to aniline derivative tints?
http://www.hennaforhair.com/ppd/index.
html
Click on “a severe reaction to hair dye
following sensitization from PPD temporary
tattoo”
•All haircolor products and
lighteners contain:
~ a developer (oxidizing agent)
~an alkalizing ingredient
Alkalizing ingredient-ammonia or
an ammonia substitute is to:
•Raise cuticle of the hair fiber so
tint can penetrate the cortex
•Increase the penetration of tints
within the hair (oxidation
reaction)
•Trigger the lightening action
of the peroxide
The next paragraph said differently:
The alkalizing agent:
- opens the cuticle
- the peroxide enters into the cortex
- breaks up the melanin (lighteners)
- permanent color does this to a
lesser degree, then replaces it
with new color
Temporary Color
Neutralize yellow hair or unwanted
tones
Q. What tone would we use for this?
Q. What happens when a tone (like blue)
is used and there is no
complimentary tone (yellow) ?
Just ask Mr. Herr !!!!!
Top: Several applications
of lightener, then
toned with violet
Bottom: used blue to
counter the yellow
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•Pigment molecules are large
*prevent penetration the
cuticle layer
•Coating action only
•Removed by shampooing
•Nonoxidation color
•Physical change not a chemical
change
•No patch test required
Temporary haircolors are available in a
variety of colors and products:
•Color rinses applied weekly to
shampooed hair, then styled
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Q. If this product only coats the hair,
how can it last for a week?
•Colored mousses and gels
•Hair mascara/crayons
for dramatic effects
(or to hide gray
regrowth)
teendiariesonline.com
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•Spray-on haircolor
•Color-enhancing
shampoos:
-brighten
-impart slight color
-eliminate unwanted
tones
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Add all:
Coating- residue left on the
outside of the hair shaft
Made from preformed dyes
Certified colors-standards for
purity-FDA approved
Semipermanent Haircolor
• Nonoxidation color
• Not mixed with peroxide
• Last through several shampoos,
*depending on the hair’s
porosity
• Partially penetrate the hair shaft
*stain the cuticle
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*fades with each shampoo
•Lasts about 4-6 shampoos
(used to be 4-6 weeks)
Q. What do you think caused this
change?
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• Only deposits color
•Does not lighten the hair
***No significant color change
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•Does not require maintenance of
new growth
•Far more gentle
•Requires a patch test
•Used right out of the bottle
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Add: (in very small writing)
•no ammonia
*if mixed with an activator
develops the color
pigments within the
formula (not in hair)
*swells the cortex
*opens the cuticle for color
penetration
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Demipermanent Haircolor
•No-lift deposit only haircolor
***Lasts longer than semi
Add: penetrate the hair shaft
•Less alkaline
*mixed with low volume
developer
Wellaprofessionals.co.uk
www.framesius.com/eclectic%20tube%20copy.jpg
ADD: No ammonia or low
ammonia formula
•Uses alkalizing agents other
than ammonia
*oxidizing agents other than
peroxide
•Not necessarily less damaging
•If milder, active ingredient is
lower
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•Introduces client to color service
Add:
*vivid color results
*reverse highlighting
•Blend or cover gray
•Refreshes faded
permanent color
•Color corrections
•Restoring natural color
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•Deepens or creates a change in
tone
•Usually used on cold shaft and
ends during a regrowth touch-up
• Refreshes previously colored hair
•Available in: gel, cream, or liquid
•Requires a patch test
Cgi.ebay.ph
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Permanent Haircolor
•Lighten and deposit color at the
same time
*single process
*more alkaline
•Mixed with a higher volume
developer
•Used to match, lighten and
cover gray
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ADD:
***Contains: ammonia, oxidative
tints, and peroxide
•Requires a patch test
•Contain uncolored dye precursors
*very small
*easily penetrate the hair shaft
•Called
Aniline derivatives
•Combined with peroxide forms
larger, permanent tint
molecules
•Molecules are trapped in the
cortex
•Cannot be easily shampooed out
•Lighten the natural color
*permanent change
Add:
Action- causes the hair shaft to
swell and the cuticle to open
Ammonia- a colorless pungent
gas composed of hydrogen and
nitrogen, it is used in the
haircolor to swell the cuticle
Soap cap:
• Equal parts permanent color
mixture and shampoo
• Use last 5 minutes
• Worked through hair to refresh
ends
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Permanent color:
• Best for covering gray
hair
•Removes natural pigment
*through lightening
•At the same time adds artificial
color
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•Results=natural-looking color
Erdamtasdelen.com
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Add:
High-lift tinting-single process,
higher degree of lightening
action and minimal amount of
color deposit
Review the 4 haircolor categories:
Q. List the four categories of
haircolor.
Q. If the desired color result is to
stain the cuticle layer which
type of haircolor would you
choose?
Q. What color product provides a
coating for the hair?
Q. Which product will give me the
most vivid color results?
Q. What is happening to the hair
during a permanent haircolor
service?
Q. Out of the four categories
which require a patch test
prior to application?
Q. Out of the four which would be
good for unpigmented hair?
Q. Which one causes a physical
change in the hair shaft?
Natural and Metallic Haircolors
•Not used in salons
•Include: natural, vegetable and
metallic haircolors
•Gradual colors
•Repeated use creates a buildup
*grayish or green cast
Natural/Vegetable Haircolors
•Henna-obtained from leaves or
bark of plants
•Does not lightening/lift
•Process can be lengthy and
messy
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•Shade range is limited
•Henna only available in
clear, black,
chestnut, and auburn
tones
• No chemical services can be
performed over natural
hair colors due to coating on
the hair shaft (uneven or
undesirable results can be
expected)
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Metallic Haircolors:
•Called gradual colors and
progressive dyes
•Contain metal salts
•Change hair color gradually by:
*progressive buildup
*exposure to air
*creating a dull, metallic
appearance
•Require daily application
•Marketed to men
•Unnatural-looking colors
•Limited shade range
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FYI: not needed on test
•Destroy sulfur-cross-links in
the cortex-hair breakage or
hair loss
•Metals interfere with PW and
our other chemicals (tint)
FYI
con’t
•Metals can be absorbed through
the skin and reach dangerous
levels in the body
•Users report: headaches,
dermatitis reactions, facial
swelling, & lead poisoning
•If hydrogen peroxide or any
other chemical is added to a
metal salt it will melt the hair
•Read Caution page 639
•Removal of metallic colors is
difficult and not
recommended
Test for Metallic Salts (pg. 583)
*Needed for Chapter test*
1.In glass container, mix 1 ounce
of 20 volume peroxide and 20
drops of 28% ammonia water.
2.Cut a strand of the client’s hair,
bind with tape, and immerse in
the solution for 30 minutes
3.Remove, towel dry, observe the
strand
Hair with lead-lightens
immediately
Silver-no reaction (other chemicals
will not be able to penetrate
the coating)
Copper-hair will start to boil and
will easily pull apart (other
chemicals would severely
damage or destroy the hair).
Other info to know for test:
•Silver dyes fade to a green cast
•Lead dyes fade to a purple cast
•Copper dyes turn red
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
•Is an oxidizing agent
*when mixed with an oxidation
color
*supplies oxygen gas to
develop color molecules
*creates a change in natural
hair color
•pH between 2. 5 - 4. 5
•Others developers on market;
peroxide is most common for
haircolor
•Different forms-liquid and cream
Volume: measures the
concentration and strength of H2O2
Lower the volume=less
lift is achieved
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•Higher volume=greater the lifting
action
•10,20,30,40 are used for proper
lift and color
development
•Store-cool, dark place
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Add to side bar:
10 volume-deposit only
*does not cause enough lift
to consider
20 volume-one-two levels of lift
30 volume-two-three levels of lifts
40 volume-three-four levels of lift
Add:
Stabilizers are added to prolong
the life, appearance, and
performance of product.
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Not in book-need to know:
High-lift tint will allow you to
achieve four levels of lift
successfully.
Many haircolor brands are mixed
equal parts developer/tint.
Ratio of 1:1
Tint
Developer
High-lift tints are a ratio of 1:2
*use 40 volume developer
Lighteners
•Lighten hair by dispersing,
dissolving, and decolorizing the
natural pigment
•H2O2 mixed with lightener begins
to release oxygen
•Known as oxidation
*happens within the cortex
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• To achieve a very pale blonde
shade use a double-process
application
• Known as a two-step coloring
• Hair is prelightened, then the
depositing color is applied
• Using a lightener-up to 90
minutes
• Once hair is properly lightened,
second step adds soft tone back
to the hair
• Called toning process
• Toners-very light shade palette
to add tone to decolorized hair
• Demipermanent colors, Level 810 are also used as toners
Lighteners are also used to
achieve:
•Lighten the hair prior to
application of a final color
•Lighten hair to a particular shade
•Brighten and lighten an existing
shade
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Q. What situation would cause us not to
be able to achieve a blonde shade?
A. If client wants a color lighter than 4
shades of lift. Remember tint can only go
up 4 levels.
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•Lighten only certain parts of the
hair
•Lighten dark natural or colortreated levels
The Decolorizing Process
•Hair goes though different
stages of color as it
lightens
Add: Stages-visible color change
that natural hair goes through
while being lightened
•depends on how much pigment
the hair has
•the strength of the lightening
product
•length of time it is processed
•goes through as many as 10
stages
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Depicts how long it takes to lift
thru the gold.
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•Allows the colorist to create the
exact degree of contributing
pigment needed for the final
result
•First, the hair is decolorized to the
appropriate level
•New color is applied to deposit the
desired color
•Lightening the hair to the correct
stage is essential to a beautiful,
controlled, final haircoloring
result.
Q. If the client is a natural level
2 (very dark brown), and
wants to have level 7
(medium blonde) full head
of color, what level of
decolorization will I need to
get to for a successful
color?
•Toners
*Semi-permanent
*Demipermanent
*Permanent haircolor products
used primarily on prelightened
hair to achieve pale and delicate
colors
*process up to 5 minutes
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•Not all hair will go through 10
stages of lightening
•Each natural color starts at a
different stage
•Goal: is to create the correct
degree of contributing
pigment as the foundation for
the final haircolor result
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•Hair is never safely lifted past the
pale yellow stage to white
•Causes excessive damage to the
hair strand
•Result: wet hair feels mushy
and will stretch without
returning to original
length
www.kimlake.com/hair/pic6/before007.jpg
•When dry: hair is harsh and
brittle
•Often suffers breakage and will
not accept toner properly
•Baby-blonde look (Marilyn
Monroe/Madonna) can be
achieved by lightening to a
pale yellow and neutralizing the
unwanted undertone
(contributing pigment) with a
toner
www.sessionmagazine.com/.../marilyn-monroe06.jpg
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CONSULTATION
•Most critical
•First step in establishing a
relationship with your client
•Client will communicate what she is
looking for
•Listen carefully so you can make the
appropriate haircolor
recommendations
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• Allow sufficient time ensure a
client’s satisfaction
***Have proper lighting, walls
should be a neutral or white color
Steps to include:
1.Book client 15 minutes
extra
Introduce yourself and welcome
them to the salon
Offer a beverage
Allow no interruptions
2. Have client fill out information
card
-hair history
-tells what kind of color service
client is looking for
-pay attention to client’s skin
and eye color
-condition and length of
hair, amount of gray
3. Look directly at client
ask what they are thinking
about doing with hair color
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Ask leading questions
Let them talk
Your questions might include:
•Temporary or permanent
change
•All over or highlights
•Conservative or dramatic
If you ask a client: do you want
your color to whisper, talk or
scream? You will gain a clear
picture of how they want to look,
how much of a highlight, or how
light/bold the color is to be.
Describe what you would label your
hair color as.
•Use people’s hair from the media to
help describe an effect
•Add shine to your hair?
4. Recommend at least two different
options
5. Review the procedure and
application techniques
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-cost of service and follow-up
maintenance
-several steps may be needed to
achieve result
-may not be able to afford it,
have a more economical
back-up solution ready
6. Be honest, do not promise the
world
-corrective color solutions
take time, let client
know what you can do
today and how many
visits it will take to
achieve desired look
7. Gain approval from the
client
8. Start the hair color service
9. Educate and inform client about
home care, products,
rebooking, what shampoo and
conditioner is needed, how
many weeks to the next service
10. Fill out client haircolor card
Read both Caution Boxes and the
Focus On
Release Statement
Q. What statement can be made
about release statements in
PA.?
Q. Name two haircolor safety
precautions that will prevent
injury to a client.
A. Patch test and do not tint
eyelashes or eyebrows with
haircolor.
Formulation:
•Four basic questions that must
always be asked when
formulating a haircolor
***Drape the client for a chemical
service, and try to answer these
four questions, then give us the
answers when we come to help you
formulate.
**Need to know all four questions
for the test
1.What is the natural level? Is
there any gray hair?
2.What is the client’s desired
level and tone?
3. Are contributing pigments
(undertones) revealed?
4.What colors should be mixed
to get the desired result and
what volume of developer?
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: www.dailymakeover.com/blogs/hueman-behavior/2...
Formulation con’t:
•Combination of the shade and
the volume of H2O2
determines the lifting
ability of a haircolor
•Formulate with both lift and
deposit in mind
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Add:
Formulation: art of mixing to
create a blend or balance of two
or more ingredients.
•Higher lifting formulas may
not cancel the warmth of a
client’s natural contributing
pigment
•Volume of H2O2 mixed with
the haircolor product will
also influence the lift and
deposit
Ex. Bright reds
Q. Can I mix the color of the
hair swatch that the client
showed me she liked? Why
or why not?
Q. What will help me to
determine the tone that
will be needed?
Q. When you have a color client,
what will you do before
calling Mrs.K or myself over?
Mixing Permanent Colors:
•Method of mixing is
determined by the type of
application you are using
•Applied by either bowl and
brush or applicator bottle
•Always follow manufacturer’s
directions
Applicator bottle:
•Large enough to hold
color and developer,
enough room to shake to mix the
product
•For ratio 1:1-pour 1 ounce
developer into bottle, add 1
ounce of color, mix
Q. What is another way to say ratio
1:1?
Equal parts
•For a ratio 1:2-one part high
lift tint to two parts
developer, or
Ex.-1 ounce tint to 2 ounces
developer
Q. What is another way to say this
ratio?
Double peroxide
•This is the ratio for high-lift
blonde colors
*On test*
Matrix
Socolor
3 ounce
tube
Most
brands are
2 ounce
tubes
2 1/2
2
1 1/2
1
1/2
Let’s talk
mixing
Brush and bowl:
•Use nonmetallic bowl!!!!!
•Measure developer into bowl
•Add color/colors in appropriate
proportions
•Use applicator brush, stir to blend
Patch test info:
•To determine any allergy or
sensitivity to the mixture
•Also called *predisposition test
Add all
three:
*hypersensitivity test
*sensitivity test
*allergy test
•Must be given 48 hours prior to
each application of an aniline
derivative tint
•Must be the same tint brand
and color that will be used
on the hair
•Negative skin test/or resultshows no sign of
inflammation
* color may be safely applied
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•Positive result-shows redness,
rash, welt, swelling, itching,
burning, blisters, open sores
and breathing difficulties-do
not use this product on your
client
***You can patch test with a
different brand of color,
however I would expect them
to be allergic to that as well.
Result of using
permanent haircolor on
the eyebrows.
Blindness may occur.
(this client did a 48
hour patch test and it
was negative)
*Read both
Caution
Boxes
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The ingredient that people are allergic
to is:
Add: para-phenylenediamine or PPD.
***There are other ingredients that
clients could be sensitive to as well, but
this is the most common one.
***About 1 in 100 react to haircolor.
***I have seen one case in 26 years
Q. Does it matter what level of developer
is used in the patch test? Why or
why not?
Q. What will determine how long the
patch test is to remain on the
client’s skin?
Q. What must we anticipate from a
higher volume of developer than
20, when mixed with a level 6
haircolor?
Q. We know that we will pull more orange and
red, so what complimentary tone must
we include in the formula?
Haircolor Applications
•Follow a prescribed procedure
•Makes for greatest efficiency
and the safest, most
satisfactory results
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Preliminary Strand Test
•Once formula is created-try it on a
small strand of hair
•This will tell you how the hair will
react to the formula and how long
to process
•The strand test is performed after the
client is prepared for the coloring
service.
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Temporary Colors:
•Apply to manufacturer’s
directions
Semi-permanent Haircolor
•Deposit only
•Color applied over color
always creates a darker
color
•Porosity determines how well the
products “take”
•Can build up on the ends
•Strand test will determine the
formula and processing time
***Strand test
prior to
rinsing out
tints and
lighteners
Q. Explain the difference
between a preliminary
strand test and a strand test.
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Demipermanent Haircolor
• Great way to introduce client to
color
• Enhance their natural color
• Application is similar to
semipermanent, FMD
Gray hair: special challenges
• Depth of color may appear too
harsh
• Allow for some brightness and
warmth
• Select a shade one level lighter
*more natural-looking result
• Previous color service-greater
degree of porosity
• Take into consideration when
formulating and applying
FYI (whole page)
Single Process tints:
•Usually contain a lightening
agent, shampoo, an aniline
derivative tint, & an
alkalizing agent to activate
the added peroxide
•Usually uses 20 volume
developer
•When using other volumes of
developer, the results will be
altered
Single-Process Permanent Haircolor
• Lightens and deposits color in a
single application
•Includes: Virgin tint going lighter
Tint retouch
•Prelightening or presoftening is not
required
Single-process Color Retouch:
*use a glaze (nonammonia) to add
shine and tone the hair shaft and ends
1. Retouch the new growth
*Do not overlap
*causes breakage and a
“line of demarcation”-visible line
separating colored hair from
new growth.
Done for effect
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2. Process color according to
your analysis and strand
test results
3. Refresh faded ends
* no-lift deposit-only
haircolor
*rinse the color through the
ends, shampoo/condition
Add: Shampoo two times for all
lighteners and color services
Q. Explain why we would see a line
of demarcation.
A. When the color is applied to porous
hair (previously tinted) it will usually
take a deeper tone than the new
growth will, leaving you with a line of
two colors.
Add: Line of Demarcation-obvious
difference between two colors on
the hair shaft
Double-Process Haircolor:
• Process of hair lightening
• Known as bleaching or
decolorizing
• Diffusion of the natural hair
color or artificial haircolor from
the hair
Double-process Haircolor:
•Dramatically lighter color
•Prelightened first
•To achieve pale or cool
colors use double-process
application
•Decolorize with lightener
*then deposit desired tone
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Modern day accelerating
machines to process
perms and color faster
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•Known as double process highlift coloring and two-step
blonding
1. Hair is prelightened first
2. Then toned
•Prelightening lifts the
natural pigments, before
the toner
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*wider range of
haircolor possibilities
•By prelightening the hair to the
desired color you create a perfect
foundation for longer- lasting red
colors that avoid muddiness and
stay true to tone
Add: Shampoo all
color/lightener
services 2 times
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•Prelightener is applied the
same way as a regular
lightening treatment
•Once reached desired shade,
lightly shampoo, acidify and
towel dry
•Do a strand test to ensure the
results of the toner
•Apply color/toner in the usual
manner
Read Focus On and Caution Box
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Using Lighteners
•Choose from oil, cream and
powder
•Oil/cream: on-the-scalp
lighteners
•Powder: off-the-scalp lighteners
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On-the-scalp lighteners:
*cream and oil, some powder*
• Easy to apply
•Oil-mildest
*one or two levels of color
lift is desired
•Used professionally to lighten
dark facial and body hair
•Cream
*strong enough for high-lift
blonding
•Gentle on scalp
•Conditioning agents that give
some protection to hair and
scalp
•Thickeners give more control
during application
•Do not run or drip,
overlapping is prevented
during retouch services
•May be mixed with activators
(boosters, protinators,
accelerators) in the form of
dry crystals. ON TEST
•Activators
*powdered persulfate salts
*increase lifting power
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•More activators, the lighter the hair
•Up to 3 for on-the-scalp
•Up to 4 off-the-scalp
•Increase scalp irritation
Powdered Off-the-scalp lighteners:
• Quick lighteners
• Strong, fast acting powder
• Dry out more quickly
*cover with plastic cap
•Do not run or drip
•Expand and spread out
Time factors:
•Darker the hair, more melanin,
takes longer
•Influenced by porosity, lightening
agent can reach the cortex
faster
•Tone-more red, more difficult to
achieve pale delicate shades
•Ash blondes are difficult to achieve
•Strength of product affects the
timing
•Heat leads to quicker timing
***use infrared lamps
•Stage of lightening must be
observed to avoid excessive lift
•If lightened beyond desired
foundation toner may not
develop properly in the hair
shaft
•When this occurs, the toner shade
may “grab” the base color, giving
an ashy, cool tone
Preliminary Strand Test
*determines processing time
*condition of hair
*end result
•Watch strand for any discoloration or
breakage
•Recondition if needed prior to toning
•Carefully record all data on
client’s card
•If test shows hair is not light
enough, increase strength of
mixture and/or processing
time
•If strand is too light, decrease the
strength of mixture and/or
decrease the processing time
•Patch test done prior to
application of a toner
***Save time-strand test and patch
test the same day
Read both Caution boxes
Lightener retouch:
•New growth
*part of the hair shaft
between the scalp and
the hair that has been
colored
•Applied only to the
new growth
Q. Name the application that
must be used for a
successful retouch on this
client.
• Use cream lightener for retouch
• Less irritating to the scalp
• Helps prevent overlapping
*overlapping can cause severe
breakage or lines of demarcation
•Consult record card
*lightener formula, timing
and other matters
Using Toners
•Primarily used on prelightened
hair
*achieve pale, delicate colors
•Requires double-process
application
-application of lightener
-application of toner
*no-lift deposit only
•Contributing pigment
*color that remains in the
hair after lightening
(foundation)
•Achieve the correct
foundation
Contributing
pigment
needed for a
light red
color
*to create the right color and
degree of porosity
required for proper toner
development
•Manufacturer’s will include
literature recommending
the foundation necessary to
achieve the desired color
•Paler the desired color the
lighter the foundation
•Overlightened hair will
“grab” the base of the toner
•Underlightened hair will
appear to have more red,
yellow, or orange than the
intended color
•Do not prelighten past the
pale yellow stage
•This creates overporous hair
that will have inadequate
amounts of natural
pigment left in the cortex
for the toner to bond to
•Refer to law of color to select a toner
*neutralize or compliment
Toner Application
•Patch test required/***strand test
•Proceed with application only if the
patch test is negative and the hair is
in good condition
• Speed and accuracy in applying is
important
*determines whether you
get good color results
Procedure-check with instructor
Q. What would your first instinct
be for the procedure?
Special effects haircoloring:
•Any technique that involves
partial lightening or coloring
*pure fashion
techniques
•Versatile and exciting
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•Strategically placing light
and dark colors in
the hair
•Highlighting involves coloring
strands lighter than
natural color
* illusion of depth
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•Light colors appear larger
•Makes details more visible
•Reverse highlighting or low lighting
colors strands darker than the
natural color
•Contrasting dark areas
recede, appear smaller
•Make detail less visible
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•As you expand your
knowledge, you will
become more creative
•Possibilities are limited
only by your imagination
Techniques for highlighting
•Cap
•Foil
•Balayage or free-form
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Cap technique:
•Involves pulling clean, DRY
strands of hair through a
perforated cap with a thin plastic
or metal needle
•Comb to remove tangles
•# of strands pulled
determines the amount of
highlighting or lowlighting
•Small # pulled effect will be
subtle
•Noticeable effect when many are
pulled though
•Caution: the density of the
client’s hair must be
considered
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•For high/lowlighting-apply lightener or
any haircolor
FYI **when desired shade is reached
-rinse product off of cap
(if lightener is used, cool water)
-add small amount of shampoo
-untie and slide cap off
-wet down all hair
-shampoo twice, condition
•Do this except if a toner is needed
after the lightener
FYI
To tone:
*rinse lightener off of cap with
cool water
* add small amount of shampoo
* cleanse off bleach
* rinse out with cap on
* towel dry hair thoroughly
*dry with blow dryer
* add toner and process.
When toner is finished proceed as before.
Go under cap to
erase a pull that
is too thick
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***use caps only on
shorter hair/never long
hair
Foil Technique:
•Involves coloring selected
strands of hair by slicing or
weaving out sections
* placing them on foil or
plastic wrap
*applying lightener or
permanent haircolor, and
sealing them in the foil or
plastic
•Use permanent haircolor for softer
looks/red HL
•Placing foil in hair is an art
•Takes practice and discipline
•Slicing-take 1/8th” section of hair
by making a straight part at the
scalp
•Position hair over the foil
•Apply lightener/color
•Carefully close the foil while
preventing the foil from slipping
Fold all foils on a diagonal line to
prevent foils from slipping.
Be sure the top is
no longer or
shorter than the
parting
Show movie
•Weaving-selected strands are
picked up from a narrow
(1/8th”) section of hair
• use a zigzag motion of the
comb
•Place hair over foil
•Apply lightener or color
•Carefully close the foil while
preventing the foil from
slipping
•Many patterns that foils can be
placed in the hair
•Face-frame, half-head, three
quarter head, full-head
•To produce different highlights in
different portions of the head
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Foil retouch:
Apply product
to the regrowth
only-not the
entire strand
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Balayage technique:
•Or free-form, involves painting of
a lightener (usually powder
lightener) directly onto clean,
styled hair
•Applied with tint brush or a tail
comb from base to ends
around the head
•Extremely subtle/used to draw
attention to the surface of the
hair or…
Very bold effect done
on blonde hair
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Will look “sun kissed”
Toning overhighlighted and
dimensionally colored hair:
•When hair is decolorized to
the desired level
*toner may not be necessary
•If a cool tonality is desired,
use a toner to cancel any
undesirable yellow
contributing pigment
•An oxidative toner will add
color to the highlighted
strands
* it might also causing a slight
amount of lift to the
natural, or pigmented hair
***Result may be uneven tonality
*warmth brought out
•Strand test to ensure best results
Avoiding untreated hair options:
•Use a nonoxidative toner
*no ammonia
-no developer (thus
no lift)
•Is gentler on the scalp and
hair
•Semipermanent color can be used
(deposit/no lift)
•Always check with the
manufacturer’s color
chart for the base color of
your chosen toner, to ensure
that when the toner combines
with the contributing pigment,
gives you the exact tone you want
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•Use a demipermanent haircolor
*deposit only without
ammonia
•Lasts longer than temporary or
semipermanent toner
Highlighting Shampoo
Prepared by combining
permanent haircolor,
hydrogen peroxide, and
shampoo
•Slight change in shade is desired
*Or when a client’s hair
processes very rapidly
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•Highlights the hair’s natural color in
a single application
•No patch test is required
****Other:
•Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen
peroxide
•Natural color is slightly lightened
•No patch test required
•Follow manufacturer’s directions
Special problems in
haircolor/corrective coloring
•Each haircoloring service is
unique and can present
unique challenges
•Complete client
consultation and
analysis of hair is
critical
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•Strand tests
*satisfactory final results
•Even the most skilled colorist
will occasionally have a
problem that could not be
predicted
Gray hair: Challenges and
Solutions
•Gray, white, and salt and pepper
hair all have characteristics
that present unique coloring
challenges
•Gray hair can turn orange if
lightener is not processed
long enough
Yellowed Hair:
•Gray hair with a yellow cast
is caused by:
•smoking
•medication
•Sun exposure
•hair sprays and
styling aids
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•Lighteners and tint removers
can help remove yellow
discoloration
•Can be overpowered
(neutralized) by the deposit
of violet-based colors
Add: Discoloration-development
of undesired shades through
chemical reactions
Q. What is the problem when we see someone
with blue or violet hair? (Mr. Herr’s blue
haired ladies)
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Blue-violet toner was used
Formulating For Gray Hair:
•Accepts the level of the color applied
•Level 9 or higher may not give
complete coverage (not enough
pigment)
Add: Coverage-ability of a product to
color unpigmented , white, or other
colors of the hair
•Level 7 or darker will cover better, can
be used for pastel & blonde tones
Before and after:
Lowlights in gray hair
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Q. What effect would
a lighter color
have on this client?
•For 80-100% gray-blonde range
is better
•Selected color can be warm or
cool depending on skin, eye
color and preference
Q. What theory can you state about
why the hair changes to gray?
A. As we age skin, eye color and
hair lose pigment/part of aging
process
•Salt and pepper (low
percentage of gray)
*color on color will always
make a darker tone
•To compensate: use a shade
2 levels lighter than the
natural dark hair
•Always strand test
•Follow the chart-table 21-5 and
manufacturer’s product color chart
•Take into account client’s:
*personality
*personal preferences
*amount of gray and it’s location
Location:
-majority gray in the front
section
-formulate on percentage of
gray hair the client sees
-hair that surrounds the
face influences the
client’s self-image
Tips for Achieving gray Coverage:
• Level 7 medium-blonde or deeper
•20 vol. developer
•Process 45 minutes
•Add neutral or neutral (warm tone)
in percentages that follow
•High-lift blonde will not cover gray
hair
•Use Level 7 then add highlights
Presoftening:
•Gray hair can be resistant
•Raises the cuticle
*allows better penetration of
color
•Acts like a stain
• Presoftener is applied, processed,
and removed
• Then haircolor is applied
• Allow to process 15 minutes or
FMD
• While presoftening the resistant
areas, mix and apply final
formula to the rest of the head
***To presoften:
•Mix according to
manufacturer’s directions
•Apply to most resistant areas first
•Process room temperature 5-20
minutes/FMD
•Wipe color off gently with towel
to remove
•Next, apply desired level and
tone to achieve end results
Or use Mrs. Mandato’s “Primer”
•Chemistry is different, this is
not a presoftening technique
•In clinic, when one of us is
working with you use their
technique, learn both, then
you decide which to use
Rules for Effective Color
Correction
•Color may not come out as
expected
•Problems can be corrected
Q. What is the main
reason this color
needs correcting.
Determine what
tone would be better
and why.
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Keep in mind:
1.Do not panic
2.Determine the nature of the
problem
3.Determine what caused the
problem
4.Develop a solution
5.Always take one step at a time
6. Never guarantee an exact
result
7. Always strand test for
accuracy
Damaged Hair:
•Blow-drying, wind harsh
shampoos, and chemical
services affect the condition
of the hair
•Coating compounds:
*hairspray
*styling agents
*some conditioners can
block color penetration
***Heavy coatings/shampoo
and dry hair under dryer for
better results
Hair is considered damaged
with one or more of:
•Rough texture
•Overporous condition
•Brittle and dry
•Susceptible to breakage
•No elasticity
•Becomes spongy and matted
when wet
•Color fades or
grabs too dark
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•Any of these conditions can create
problems during tinting, lightening,
PW, or hair relaxing treatments
•Give reconditioning
treatments prior to,
and after the
application of these
chemical processes
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Tips for damaged hair:
•Use a penetrating
conditioner that deposits
protein, oils, and moisture
rich ingredients
•Complete each chemical
service with a low
pH finishing rinse
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Q. What do we use here that is
an acidic finishing rinse?
Q. What effect will Reginal have in
the hair?
•Postpone any further chemical
services until hair is
reconditioned
•Schedule client for betweenservice conditioning
•Recommend retail products for
use at home to prepare for the
next service
Q. If the damage to the client’s
hair is your fault, do you
charge for conditioning
treatments or home care
products? If client’s fault,
same Q?
Fillers:
•Equalize porosity
***Can be ready-made by
manufacturer or are prepared by
mixing haircolor and
conditioner
Allure.com
•Two types:
•Conditioner fillers and
color fillers
•Conditioner fillers
*recondition damaged, overly
porous hair
*equalize porosity
•Apply in a separate procedure or
immediately prior to color
application
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•Color fillers
•Equalize porosity
•Deposit color
•Uniform contributing pigment
•Use no-lift deposit only
haircolor (demipermanent)
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Advantages:
•Deposit color to faded ends
and hair shaft
•Help hair to hold color
•Prevents streaking and dull
appearance
Add: Faded-to loose color
through exposure to the
elements, or other factors
•Prevents off-color results
•Produces more uniform,
natural-looking color in a tint
•Produces uniform color
when doing a tint
back
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Selecting the Correct Color Filler
•All three primary colors must be
present
*looks natural
Ex. Blonde hair to Brown:
Yellow
Blue
orange-red is needed
•To correct unwanted haircolor:
*use the complementary
color that is missing
Yellow blonde hair
*corrected with violet
Orange blonde hair
*corrected with blue
Adding blue to yellow hair
*makes green
Haircolor Tips for Redheads
•Exciting and fun
•Fading common problem
•Artificial pigment within the hair
shaft continues to oxidize and
fade
***Use lower volume developer
to prevent fading and
brassiness
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Tips:
•To create warm coppery reds
*red orange base color
•To create hot fiery reds
*red-violet or true red colors
•After hair has been colored
with permanent haircolor
*use no-lift deposit only on
hair shaft and ends
•If gray hair
*add ½ to 1 ounce of
neutral/natural color
***gray hair will pick up the
pure base of the color,
your results could be
bright orange or bright
pink
•To brighten:
*use soap cap
*equal parts shampoo
and remaining color
before rinsing
Haircolor Tips for Brunettes:
•Avoid orange or brassy tones
*use cool blue base
Add: Red, orange, or gold tones
use “drabber” to reduce red or
gold highlights
•Avoid unwanted brassy tones
*do not lighten more than 2
levels above natural color
•Add 1 ounce neutral/natural
color to cover gray
•Highlights in brunettes
*deep or caramel colored
*less
maintenance
than
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www.haircolortradesecrets.com/
FYI
Special effects highlighting
•Tone on tone
•Reverse highlighting
•Scrunching
•Shoe-shine
•Balayaging
•Color mapping
•Twisted highlights
*on hair
*on foil
Hji.co.uk
Color mapping
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Q. How much money would a
salon quote as a price for a
client that enters the salon
with green hair?
A. Never quote a price unless
you have strand tested each
step. Problems can still
arise, so I recommend that
you give yourself a safety
net and say “corrective hair
color starts at $_____”.
Q. How much time will you tell
your client that a corrective
haircolor service will take?
Haircolor Tips for Blondes:
•Popular, profitable, fun
•Possibilities are endless
•Lightening brown to blonde
*underlying unwanted warm
tones
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•Covering gray
*use Level 7 or darker
•Double-process blonde
*pale blonde results
•If high-lift blondes are used
on Level 4 or below
*results too warm or brassy
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If highlights become too blonde
*lowlights or deeper strands
foiled in
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Common Haircolor Solutions
• Refresh faded color
*demipermanent
*stay within two levels of your
formula
*apply all over-process up to
10 minutes
Green cast:
*build up of minerals
~well water
~chlorine
*remove the mineral buildup
*apply demipermanent color
to neutralize unwanted
color
Add: “drab” describes no red or
gold.
Overall Haircolor is Too light:
•Result of incorrect formulation
•Apply no-lift haircolor one-two
levels darker
Overall Color is Too Dark:
Add: 1st try Dawn dish
detergent to fade or spot
lightening
•Determine how much color
needs to be removed
•Use haircolor remover
•Process 10 minutes
•Designed to remove artificial
pigment
•Once achieved desired color,
rinse and shampoo
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Tint back:
What steps will be
needed to achieve
the natural
haircolor?
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Restoring Blonde to Natural
Haircolor
***called Tint Back
•Can be tricky
•Client may not like it
*will look dark
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•1st soften new growth
*level 6 violet base/20 vol
*apply to scalp
*process 30 minutes, rinse
•Next,
*apply no-lift deposit only glaze
-1 oz. Level 8
-1 oz. Level 9 red-orange
*to all lightened hair
-not to scalp area
-process 20 minutes, rinse,
shampoo, towel dry
Finally
*no-lift deposit only glaze
*2 oz. Level 6
*apply scalp to ends
*process 20 minutes
-check every 5 minutes
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Haircoloring Safety Precautions
*** need 5 for the test
Give patch test
Do not apply if abrasions are
present
Do not apply if metallic or
compound tint is present
Do not brush hair prior to tint-can
be picked, avoid scalp
Read and follow
manufacturer’s directions
Use cleaned and disinfected
applicator bottles, brushes,
combs, and towels
Protect clothing with a
chemical drape
Do strand test
Only use glass or plastic to
mix product
Do not mix tint/ lightener
before ready to use;
discard leftover product
Wear gloves
Do not allow color to get in
the client’s eyes
Do not overlap tint or lightener
Use mild shampoo
Always wash hands before
and after service
Read Caution and Focus On
FYI
Haircoloring offers:
*opportunity to exercise your
creative impulses
*will bring great pleasure to
your clients
*enjoy and appreciate all the
learning you need to do,
now and in the future
*techniques, fashions,
and formulations
constantly change
*keep learning new
techniques
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