GLOSSARY OF TRENDS
Women’s collections A/W 2011-2012
Archi-Couture
DEL CIMA – The big chill, metropolitan colours, from asphalt to frost, ideas taken from daily life
in the beating heart of the city provide the inspiration for this collection. Layers of padding, both thick
and thin are everywhere: in jersey, with nylon, among laces and silks printed with arabesques and
architectonic swirls. Plus rounded effects, pleats and curls to exaggerate shapes, and also applied
details to frame and highlight the face. The icons of this style are the wool jersey dress with superfeminine yet comfortable lines and coat in the same material, lined and padded.
VERONICA BETTINI MOOD – Focus on the concept of Biodiversity, for a collection born out of
collaboration with the architect Claudio Varone: bags, bracelets, cuffs and necklace-collars use
her soft warm “felt for architecture”; a project that combines craftsmanship skills with construction of
shape. Whereas the capsule clothing collection comes in wool jersey, silk crepe and pure silk, with
refined black edging, all hand sewn. The jacket closes with a turn of the collar, the trousers wrap
around the body like a shawl, the tracksuit goes asymmetric, the vest top drapes like a kefiah from a
plunging neckline.
HENRIETTA LUDGATE – British luxury brand for the ethically aware woman, A/W 2011/2012 sees
Henrietta Ludgate exploring the mysterious dark side of the Scottish landscape. Drawing on ancient
local folklore, the collection retraces the style of this designer of essential lines, this time round
expressed in skilful use of drapes and thick English cashmere and mink, Scottish wools and superfine
wool jersey weaves from Yorkshire. A dynamic silhouette, where minimalism meets references to
futurism and the art of sculpture, thanks to defined shape and the freedom of drapes. One of the
names in The Green Closet.
Basic vintage
BEHIP - Behip revolutionises the use of fabrics, interprets the old couture lines, using modern fabrics
like jersey, reworking coats in sweat material, sewing together pieces of cloth to reproduce the
geometric patterns from Mondrian’s paintings. Barbara Tirotti’s project challenges the very fabric itself,
moulding it into contorted shapes: close-fitting bodices cinched at the waist explode into full skirts,
tailoring reminiscent of the fifties ranges simply from Tees to ball gowns. A series of limited
edition slips enhance the most classic garments, dayglo inserts liven up shades of grey and layers,
asymmetric cuts give every outfit style with personality.
PAM & ARCH LONDON - “The Little Black Dress” as the basic element for an eleganceguaranteed wardrobe. The collection teams typically sixties’ allure chic with a veil of mystery,
enriching little cocktail dresses in satin and soft jersey with delicate lace and sophisticated details.
Bracelets and other Armour
ELLEBJ Made in Italy – Limelight on Body jewel, the accessory-jewel that enhances the different
expressions of the body. The collection features two ranges: the Amor line, expression of femininity and
seduction and the Psyche line, minimalism and androgynous look. Amor focuses on sculpturependants, bracelets, earrings and rings where elliptic shapes weave into fine cages to highlight the
body’s curves, resulting in shiny, opaque, clear and satin effects. Psyche meanwhile, for the original
warrior woman, tends towards armour that embraces the body, head, wrists, arms, shoulders
and legs. The colours recreate the sensations of the raw, worn, used metal. For all its creations, elleBj
uses non-allergenic nickel-free materials and original Murano glass.
FEZBAG – Must-have for winter 2011/12, alongside the Fezbag and the Bisanzio, will be the new
Floatbag, for the first time in a winter version, in different colour and size combinations. The brand new
FezBelt Obi will also be presented. A shoulder Fezbag that turns into an obi, fastened with thin
coloured leather laces. Finally tiny wrist belts in coloured leather with antique-effect silver buckles and
other minute jewels in hide.
GEDEBE – Wide cuffs in leather or shaped collars, wide belts, extravagantly decorated with
stones, crystals and chains, finished with studs and fastened with a silk bow. The colour palette
chooses sands, greys and shades of powder, in addition to black. All hand made in Italy by artisan
leather workers and skilled embroiderers, guided by the flair of creative director Giuseppe Della Badia.
The accessory collection is joined for the next season by a mini collection of T-shirts, tailored in the
softest glove weight nappa leather.
LIVELUCKY – The new line of glam-chic lucky jewellery is called LiveLucky. Each piece is made
from the highest quality metals and stones. The line is in sterling silver and 18 k gold and comprises
exclusive pieces and accessories, inspired by the eclectic sensibility and modern style of its creative
director, Silvia Tatiana Peric.
Felt Hat
LIKA – “Cristal” rainwear in clear pvc is made cosier for winter with soft felted wool. Transparent hats
with wide half-wheel brims that cover the shoulders like capes. The pvc comes in a new iridescent
bronze variant, also matching the felted wools. Fundamental elements of the collection are felted
wool and lapin: cloches with geometric styles and curled brims, raw-edge felt that imitates thirties
hairstyles, faded felt, felt with 3D inserts, felt teamed with lace, fur and sheepskin. Goat skins with
smooth flat fur team up with voluminous raccoon fur and classic sheepskin.
SUPERDUPER HATS – For the A/W 2011-2012 collection, SuperDuper Hats looks to vintage shapes
and volumes: colours, styles and models recall the classic hat in old black and white photos. The
result is a refined range of felt hats that gives a nod to the roaring twenties and wraparound soft
cloches, metropolitan gangster models, but each piece has absolutely contemporary allure. Colours are
warm, bright and embellished by small metal details.
Comfort Zone
IVANA BASILOTTA – Emerging London-based eco designer launched in 2009, Ivana Basilotta
presents her eco-friendly collection: the garments are produced by local craftsmen, in collaboration with
small manufacturers and suppliers. For the AW 2011-12 season, she has designed a line that
emphasises the body, with close-fitting structured shapes. Elegant tracksuits, soft waistcoats with
matching blouses, bustier dresses, pencil dresses with accentuated piped seams and big shoulders,
tailored coats and jackets. All in natural fabrics that drape softly, the real distinctive feature of her
style. The collection uses only the very best materials, the most innovative, ecological, biodegradable
and recycled. One of the names in The Green Closet.
NINE IN THE MORNING – Trousers, skirts and dresses designed around the body reveal an elegance
that derives from tailoring skills. Comfort is the result of the materials used, only the highest
quality denims, that embrace the body like a beauty cream. This is “bespoke” denim: to be felt on
the skin, not just worn. A metal plaque peeps from the fifth pocket.
PINKMEMORIES – For autumn winter 2011-2012 Pinkmemories presents a collection that uses fine
fibres, warm and impalpable. A range for today’s woman who wants to express her femininity without
giving up on the comfort and practicality of everyday wear. Non-colours, shades that blend to create a
very personal style.
Destination Canada
BARBARA BONER – Irreverent and provocative, but at the same time an aesthete. Barbara
Boner, a designer born in Italy, raised in Canada and based in London, shines the limelight on a real
rebel queen. The collection’s archetype is the Ginger bag. With its rectangular shape framed in wavy
multi-colour fringes, it is a real piece of any woman’s wardrobe, one that moves with the body, part of a
collection that is totally embracing and soft. Materials used: Plant-dyed faded nappa, nubuck leathers,
panels made iridescent by snake skin, silver fox and white agates. The collection is called
Snowflakeshire: a magical fantasy land, an icy world inhabited by nomadic women who are half human
and half animal.
MUKS - Muks comes from “mukluks”, the footwear worn by the Aborigine populations in
Canada for hunting in the snow. A must-have that happened quite by chance when Jamie Cooke,
who had worn them since she was a girl, was noticed in a shop in Notting Hill. Kate Moss, the first celeb
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to buy a pair of Muks, launched a real trend that immediately caught on with Paris Hilton, Kate Hudson,
Beyoncè and Jennifer Lopez. Each Muks boot is unique and the decorations on the upper are the
original embroidery that identify the different tribes of Canadian Sioux. Warm and cosy, Muks are made
from suede and fur.
PAJAR – The performance attitude of the Canadian sports boot gets the designer treatment.
Rubber sole, impeccable resistance to low temperatures, an array of contrasting details like day-glo red
laces on midnight blue leather, check print on fabric or quilted texture with stitching.
Eco + Design
BIG BUBBLE BAGS – The laboratories of a packaging company with twenty years’ experience in the
field of plastics created “Laplam” in 2008, a resistant fabric, either clear or in brilliant colours, made of
recycled plastic entirely produced in-house using production waste. Together with the new prints of the
Big Bubble Bags, Eco2: in collaboration with the American company “Konarka Technologies Inc.”
famous for the production of flexible lightweight solar panels, the brand has come up with the first
eco solar bags, which can recharge all kinds of smartphones, mp3 players and small cameras.
DOZEN – For the atypical fashion accessory project, Dozen, focus is on eco-friendliness – the
use of a special mix of natural rubber and cork shavings – and on design, with minimal yet unusual
features. Each piece, from boots to shoppers, is characterised by unique details and distinctive
interpretation. The colour range is basic and as timeless as the product: white, natural, blue, grey and
black.
FROM SOMEWHERE WITH SPEEDO – Award-winning eco-friendly brand, its collections take
marvellous waste materials from big international designer names and transform them into elegant
dresses, telling of a passion for design and the environment, redressing the balance between waste
and consumption. The new collection reworks lux from the seventies: fine materials are carefully
worked with attention to detail to give a sculptured effect inspired by shells and sea shapes for the
knitwear line. Top articles in the Speedo collection are Speedo One Offs, the knitted cape made from
off-cuts and the maxi panelled skirt in masculine silk. One of the names in The Green Closet.
JIANHUI LONDON – The new icon in the world of haut de gamme bijoux, the must-have necklace by
the brand Jianhui London – which has also been called the Next pashmina – is the result of a small
detail noted by the Chinese-born designer Jianhui among the waste products in an artisan carpenter’s
shop. Hundreds of fragments of the lightest ethically recycled wood have been put together to
keep the wearer’s neck at just the right temperature. The necklace can be worn long or, in winter,
wrapped dozens of times around the neck like a pashmina. One of the names in The Green Closet.
Ethno-Chic
CLAUDIO CUTULI – Focus on carded alpaca threads, edge-to-edge seamed felted sheep wool
scarves and lacy stoles. Stripes and dots, flowers and ethnic patterns, from compositions embossed
onto cashmere gauze to patchwork details filled with embroidery stitches, satiny chains with an aged
galvanic look, transferred into silk and cashmere foulards. The stud, the collection must-have, is
teamed with the most classic of fabrics, plus pure wool and fragrances imbued into scarves, straight
from the lands of sheep and shepherds.
DANIELA BENZI - Ethno-chic in the colours of Parisian allure. One-off jewels that team bright
Indian fabrics with iridescent mother-of-pearl, matt ebony woods, solid colours, evanescent dusty
hues, the elegance of multi-facetted stones, the energy of Thai amulets, geometries of rings and chains
and the gleam of metal. The materials are the culmination of continual research in India, Nepal and
Thailand: semi-precious stones, ebony, horn, mother-of-pearl, shells and rosaries from Nepal, silver,
material and old sari borders from India, blown glass, stamps from old printing shops, amulets and old
Afghan mother-of-pearl buttons.
ROYAH – The designer Gabi Ghidoni creates a collection that is inspired by Afghan tradition and
costumes, reinterpreted in a conceptual way. This is the birth of a range of jackets, coats and
waistcoats with minimal appeal, the main materials being felts and cloths, featuring small embroidery
details.
Female + Male
FEDERICA VACCARO – Extreme shapes, mini or maxi: linear, clean-cut, classic shirts, simple styles,
even collarless, alongside shirts with experimental lines, puffed sleeves, rounded collars and plunging
necklines. Contrasting volumes are either structured or flowing: different lengths on tasteful shirts with
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minimal measurements and romantic shirt-dresses. Top articles in the collection are dual version
adult and young shirts, mother/daughter and father/son. There are also shirt-dresses with longer
lines, to wear over classic trousers or with leggings.
LES PETITES – The new collection by this sophisticated French brand is called “Gentlewoman”.
Elegant with a touch of new classic, it draws on inspiration from past decades to create a very personal
style attitude. The icons are Katharine Hepburn, Lauren Bacall, Charlotte Rampling and the
muses of Yves Saint Laurent. An explosive mix & match of male and female, glam à la Parisienne
combining dresses in chiffon, draped tunics and also the eternal LBD, with pieces like blazers and
outerwear, children of more severe tailoring.
Flat
AVEC MODERATION – The architecture of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (founded on the intuition that
“less is more” and “God is in the details”) transferred into a mono-product where aesthetic
experimentation partners easy-to-wear solutions. For next winter, Avec Moderation gives us a
personal reinterpretation of “superflat” footwear presenting a single model in two versions, both
available in the entire palette of colours and with sophisticated details.
GYPSYZ – Gypsyz is a new footwear concept, a hybrid between a boot and a long sock, inspired
by the hand-made boots worn in South America. In knitted wool with biodegradable soles, Gypsyz is
an eco-friendly product. Available in two lengths, to the calf and to the knee, they come in a variety of
colourful patterns and ethnic designs.
Big chill
ERIBE’ – The British label Eribé is synonym of knitwear inspired by the Scottish tradition but
with a contemporary touch. In the new collection the modern look is teamed with sensibility for the
historic Scottish tradition of knits. Fairisle garments come in surprising colours with a very soft handle
thanks to hand-spinning. Perfect for after-ski, the hand-worked sweaters borrow classic Scottish
fisherman’s patterns with the addition of details in angora. Other models, heavy knit accessories in
Arran-type designs, sweaters in eco yarns, circular-knit multicolour stripe scarves with matching gloves
and Fairisle articles in Supersoft Shetland with a tweed weave.
One of the names in The Green Closet.
RICHLY TREND – “Aspen. The snow caresses the Rocky Mountains. A house on the banks of Maroon
Lake”: an Ivy League, New Preppy style reworked for the winter cold, by Alberto Incanuti.
Materials are natural: 100% cashmere, merino, wool and cashmere blends, also in extreme gauges,
interpreted in light and shaded hues. Houndstooth jacquards, lined fabrics and blanket stitch details
make refined tasteful garments stand out. New treatments are teamed with new volumes and couture
effects, outerwear stolen from the male wardrobe gives an hint of new sobriety, extra-long cardigans,
coats in irregular houndstooth, knitted duvet jackets, soft and very warm, partner with easy chic
wearability.
VIOLANTI – Winter in St. Moritz, all cosy settings and Alpine colours. Cosy fabrics, soft, lightweight yet
absolutely warm, fluid like the techno fabrics teamed with sheepskin, knits partnered with fur,
metallic materials and structures with a bronze or silver effect. Plus coated cottons treated with a
special quilting procedure and shiny nylons padded with soft down. The chic variant is the perfect
synthesis of luxury aesthetics with minks, foxes, musk rat, rex lapin and extremely creative mink tricot.
Black is the main player, highlighted by bronzed micro-studs and details in patent.
Hand Made, Hand Painted
LEAPIOPERAIE – Knitting stitches, woven fabrics and artisan seams carried out by a group of
ladies with needles. Focus on evening bags for a line of entirely handmade accessories, made with
all-Italian raw materials, never more than 3000 pieces every season, numbered and certified by a label
giving detailed information about the relative collection, production number and hours of work.
MAJO – Bags and bijoux made with the craftsmanship expertise of local skilled labour in Central
Italy. The bags are made from recycled leather and materials from military supplies, reworked with old
processes, painting and hand-weaving. The pieces are in bronze, copper and pewter. Even the final
colouring is extremely complex with each article individually painted and different.
PAGODINA – An all-female team for the first collection by Pagodina. A project that is born from the
desire to free art from the conventions of dedicated spaces: painting canvases come down off gallery
walls and out of their frames to become the raw material, the fabric for fashion and furnishing
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accessories. Bags and accessories with geometric linear shapes, made from hand-painted canvases.
The models are called Warm, Change and Easy and each piece is the fruit of inspiration, of the artist’s
state of mind and becomes a unique article.
PEOPLE TREE WITH BORA AKSU AND ORLA KIELY - For People Tree fair-trade means much more
than paying the right price. The goal is to make fashion a means for offering new opportunities to the
underprivileged. People Tree supports 2000 farmers and craftspeople in 15 countries in 50 Fair Trade
production groups. It provides assistance to artisans and their communities with a view to improving
their technical know-how, strengthening economic activities and social impact. Showcased at Touch,
the capsules by Bora Aksu and Orla Kiely. The range of materials includes organic jersey, silk,
hand-woven fabrics and embroidery. One of the names in The Green Closet.
Unusual Jewels
A PROPOSITO DI GIOIE – One-off pieces of bijoux hand made in Italy: Papier Mâché bracelets,
the Vintage Ties bracelet, the Textile bracelet, the Fleur du bien brooch, the Meteoriti necklace.
Shapes that are elegant in their purity yet imaginative thanks to materials reinterpreted in new
combinations and experimentation into partnering of unusual materials for costume jewellery, like
vintage fabrics, material with metallic mesh and with papier-mâché. A preference for neutral colours
and non-colours, matt, pearly and metallic effects.
LE MARIONELLE – The blown-glass bauble is the basic piece leading to new artistic compositions,
characterised by a combination of unusual materials. Jewels that shine the limelight on fragranced
spices or metal wire, silk or cashmere, flowers or even colourful lacquers. Soft voluminous vintage silks,
coordinated cotton jerseys and the softest of leathers are the bases for creation of bijoux embellished
with baubles and other shapes in glass. Must-haves in the new collection are the coffee necklace, the
choker with a semi-sphere containing striped silk, the long leather necklace with lacquered and silk
spheres and the leather necklace with feather details.
LITTLE GLASS CLEMENTINE – The AW 2011-12 collection by this British brand is steeped in the
rich eccentric culture of the circus and theatre. Each necklace is full of secrets and whispers from
the world hidden in the wings. Fine elements and waste materials come together in an indissoluble
partnership. The ethics behind these creations are simple: recycling and recreating bijoux, giving life to
a new story. Each necklace is an exclusive manifest of tactile joy, each has its own story to narrate.
One of the names in The Green Closet.
POMI – A bijoux monocle: a new eyewear accessory to wear as a jewel, for reading or standing out
from the crowd. A new item in multi-colour acetate with delicate details in silver or semi-precious
stones, part of a collection of oriental-inspired jewel glasses, inlaid and studded with precious stones
and with flowery patterns.
La Chemise
CORA DE ADAMICH – The shirt as a lifestyle: elegant yet versatile, always impeccable in the bright
candour of total white stretch cottons or soft colourful silks. A collection of shirts and little dresses that
draws on tailored details, on exclusive shades and lace, designed to make every woman feel unique
and recognisable. Fabrics are all natural, strictly made in Italy and all accessories are always personally
chosen with great care and passion by Cora de Adamich.
GUGLIELMINOTTI – A collection of shirts in natural colours, from grey via beige to warm brown. Plenty
of whites, too, and blues in all different shades, interrupted by flashes of indigo and red. College,
clubhouse and Anglo-American influences inspire Archivio ’67, the washed area in the
collection that features cold dyeing. Checks, denim, whites and blues on shirts in silk and cotton with
refined buttons, inserts of edge-to-edge seamed fronts, needle laces and knitted collars. Whereas
Archivio ’67 Abiti highlights digital prints, created with a patchwork of images and inserts in lace and
embroidery, all photographed and placed on digital panels.
GUY ROVER – Focus on a capsule of 15 styles of elegant, romantically inclined shirts, where
transparent voiles are teamed with white cottons. The Guy Rover vintage style makes a comeback
thanks to embroidery, inlaid details and a range of white shirts with embroidered messages on the
collar. A capsule of 25 precious scarves distributed in the most exclusive top stores. Made from fine
materials like silk and cashmere/modal, the scarves and foulards in the Guy Rover collection feature
embossed messages that blend together with patchwork techniques, skilful mixing of fabrics, colours
and different compositions.
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Luxurious and Designer: Stoles
BLUI – Refined yet modern image for the Blui collection of accessories, which draws inspiration from
daily life and travel for its range of scarves, kefiahs, hats and gloves – like the articles that feature
the British or American flag. Colours range from the various shades of grey to a palette of naturals and
blues. Materials used are cashmere, wool, modal, silk and cotton.
CLAUDIO CUTULI ADAMANTIS – Refined moods and luxury sophistication in a mix of eccentric
inspirations: strands of lurex and mohair team with cashmere mesh, rhinestones in earthy colours
are applied to hand random-dyed stoles, in wool and modal, large foulards in embossed silk, with
graphic logos bear floral and geometric patterns and needle punched fringes decorate silks. The
collection is based on the elegance of black, of asphalt and coal through to pearl.
FRANCO FERRARI – From A/W 2011-2012, Pierre Louis Mascia is the new creative director for the
Como-based company Franco Ferrari. The result is an 80-piece collection that stands out thanks to
careful study of the huge Franco Ferrari archive, a brand with almost 40 years of history. The patterns
printed on the scarves have become a visual journey made up of characters with a defined refined
style. Old designs found with notes and comments in the margins of yellowed pages are
transformed into new trompe l’oeil. Colour digital prints – an innovative eco-friendly technique used
for all the collections, are also applied front and back to valuable materials like 100% silk, cashmere
and wool, modal and cashmere and silk and wool for stoles, scarves and neck warmers – featherweight
and incredibly warm.
Single product
EQUIPAGE – Tailored cut, maniacal attention to details, the finest quality fabrics: these are the strong
points of this collection of trousers in traditional materials and prints such as overcheck,
houndstooth and pinstripes in high-performance cashmere, washed velvet and flannels. The
styles: slim and low-waisted with turn-ups and little American-style pocket; masculine structure and
tucks; carrot shape to be worn short or boyfriend cut.
LOVELY LOLI – The corset, not as underwear but as a piece of clothing to show off over jeans,
black trousers and even teamed with a leather jacket. Clean-cut lines and basic colours – ivory, black
with small flashes of contrasting colour – satin bows, stitching and lacing that recall bridesmaids’
dresses from the past. A super-feminine single product full of appeal.
Multishapes & Transformers. Dresses
CLOTILDE – Two ranges, one based on generous soft and daring styles, the other that clings to a
slender silhouette, shaped to fit the body. Transformer dresses, fine for all seasons, that allow total
personalisation. Dresses without sizes to fit different body shapes in different ways. The new
collection “Movimento in posa” focuses on the concept of “No Gender”: male and female mixed to
create a supra-gender taste. Not only does it draw on the male wardrobe, but unisex garments are
inserted into the total looks (shirt, waistcoat and trousers) made by the Sartoria Fabio Bartolini. Plus,
limelight on “Taglia&Indossa” with three garments (dress, sweater and tights) in two-tone jersey, in a
DIY logic.
UNRAVEL 19022010 – A minimal versatile total look, with emphasis on clever contrasts and total
black: each garment changes shape depending on how it is worn. The most representative
garments include the dress in pleated silk tulle – a series of layers of silk tulle all pleated in different
ways – that softly embraces the body, the mini-dress in jersey that can also be worn as a maxi top, the
jersey top in viscose with alternating panels of pleated tulle, the tiny cape in heavy cotton, with pointed
collar and lining in wool jersey.
Northern Europe
ERFURT LUXURY ACCESSORIES – Cotton, silk, cashmere and wool in ultra-soft weights and fine
finishes meet the minimal style of North European design in this range of scarves, stoles and
accessories by the Danish designer Lotte Erfurt. Initially only for women, today the brand also has a
men’s and children’s range. Buzzwords that inspire this new collection: street, colour, casualwear.
INEKE OTTE DESIGN – Jewels that get their inspiration from the natural world and daily experience
and team them with the minimal design that is typical of North European aesthetics: this is the
range created by the designer Ineke Otte for this new Dutch brand. The strong pieces in the collection
are the necklaces Cherry, Fish, Moss and Penguin and Cup earrings with tiny teacups as pendants.
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Padded quilted nylon
MIA BAG – Two new models join the Mia Bag cult classics. The return of padded quilted nylon, now
in a printed version. A collection that focuses on creating a must-have bag. Colours go from black to
mud to white, all enriched by a range of refined prints that add movement and a desire for lightness.
MONICA BIANCO - Nylon jackets & knits. More relaxed casual shapes, but always chic and
sophisticated. Jacquard and colourful knitwear for a single product where printed padded nylon
features alongside an “eco-teddy” look. Colours from black to mud to white printed for nylon to match
the Mia Bags and more in-your-face colours for the knitwear.
Oversize and capacious: the Bags
HAGS – Generous bags entirely made in Italy, where the characteristic qualities of leather are
highlighted by a minimum use of metal hardware. Colours go from natural to dark brown, sand and tan
and have been selected and combined to emphasise the naturalness of the materials.
L’AURA – Simple lines, over sizes, ultrasoft materials, hot colours. Extra large, preppy glam style
with fun tangy details, these are the new winter bags. In buffalo print leathers, creased patent, printed
suede with inserts in pvc or glitter, multi-pocketed and multi-zipped: these are the maxi shoppers by
L’aura, bags for days that never stop, to flaunt night&day.
LE PANDORINE – Five lines suitable for any moment during the day. From Shopping bags in ecoleather and pvc, generous and lightweight, to the smallest more delicate Mini, right through to the
new Maxi and Tasca. Each bag is a snapshot of moments and experiences shared by all women,
immortalised by famous sayings. From “I’ve nothing to wear” to “behind every great woman is a great
mother”, from the wisdom of Madame Coco’s maxims to “Women are not the sum of their years.. but of
their moments”.
A passion for antiques
LAURENT GANDINI – Contemporary makeover of popular jewellery worn by country folk in Italy during
the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The fundamental themes include decoration with the lightness
of lace and simplicity of flowers, traditional costumes, rituals and popular superstition: motifs given new
life in a collection of earrings in pink gold and satin-finish silver. Cult models include les
girandoles, the interpretation of a famous late eighteenth-century model of French origin.
TATABORELLO OFFICINA BIJOUX – For the new collection Tataborello gleans inspiration from
the Victorian era and grandmother’s jewellery box, reworking cameo pendants, lace and
embroidered ribbons. Must-haves include pearl necklaces with restyled cameos; strands of pearls with
chandelier pendants; huge earrings in tatting lace; fine silver chains embellished with tiny zircons. The
colour palette prefers midnight blue, anthracite grey, cardinal red and jade green.
TOMOKO TOKUDA – Focus on contrasts between the colours of stones, crystals and brasses
that meet simple shapes from nature. Wavy asymmetric shapes, different sized circles brought
together to create movement and volume. Echoes of watches and their mechanisms give rise to jewels
that started with ideas picked up in antique markets.
Exclusive Leathers
HYBOY – Artisan-produced bags and accessories. Unusual very well-defined shapes that seem to
want to “move” in space. Small dimensions and volumes. A simple, clean-cut, no-frills image teams with
the contrasting exclusivity of the leathers: ostrich, lizard, python and alligator.
THE FELT – Energy is the buzzword of this collection: of the material – only pure cashmere – of the
accessories – only the very finest leather and fur – of the shapes – soft, easy-fitting, feminine – of
the colours – sober but warm. Plus luxury at accessible prices for a collection of 100% cashmere knits
made in Italy.
TREASURES DESIGN – A collection of bags designed in Bali, which attempts to capture all the
island’s magnetism and exotic appeal with fine leathers, combined with soft fringes and golden chains.
Great importance is given to material combinations: from suede to nappa, lambskin to mohair, reptile to
metal hardware. Plus a range of boho-chic scarves in suede and crochet. With the support of Dutch
Touch Milan 2011.
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Embroidery on Eclectic Jewels
AYALA BAR – Shading is the distinctive trait of the collection by this Israeli designer. The materials
used (glass, beads, fragments of fabric, wires, stones) are woven together embroidery-style, guided by
skilful hands and an extraordinary intuition for colour harmony. The Hip Collection portrays the talent of
Ayala Bar for surprise: this is an eclectic adventure. At the end of the nineties, after a trip to India, Ayala
created the Hip Collection, even if she does not see the collection as truly ethnic. These unexpected
materials are combined to create hand-made jewels with velvets, satin and modern stones.
DORI CSENGERI – Dori Csengeri has created a new collection of jewels like an embroidery that
brings together the threads of a journey into colour, matter and culture. The whole collection pays
tribute to the art of jewellery making from past times with the skilful combination of colours dictated by
experience and refined hand-sewn decorations inspired by nature. The Adesso line chooses materials
like gilded buttons, Swarovski crystal cuplink chains, Swarovski beads, turquoise doughnut-shaped
beads and silk soutaches.
EVATINI – Mesh lace edged with Swarovski and sewn by hand, crochet that mixes silk and semiprecious stones, plus tricot leather with interwoven Swarovski, jewels decorated with enamels and
inserted cord patterns. A collection of accessories and jewels made by hand in Italy, craftsmanship that
uses unusual innovative techniques.
Rock = leather, studs and femininity
ABDEH – Rock allure and lots of attitude for a collection that sees fine leathers and even furs in
the limelight – hand made with artisan skill. The cult pieces in the collection for next winter include a
fringed fur waistcoat, a cinched-waist leather jacket in tan with fur details, a shoulder bag complete with
fringes, in python or smooth with studs.
BB WASHED – Bruno Bordese draws on fifties’ rocker looks and the seventies’ London scene
for a line of footwear in total black. The use of skins like stuffed buffalo, nappa and nubuck, treated
to make the shoe seem worn and lived-in, combines with the iconic details of the perfect jackets.
Metallic press studs and zips recall the British underground scene and can be found on both padded
sneakers and short boots.
JEFFREY CAMPBELL - It all started ten years ago in a garage in Los Angeles. Today Jeffrey
Campbell is one of the trendiest most sought-after American footwear brands. Shoes with punchy
rock allure, but also ready to interpret the feminine vein in every woman: from lace-up short boots to
studded bejewelled sandals, right though to classic tasteful ballerina pumps.
NAPSUGAR DESIGN – A sophisticated prêt à porter collection inspired by couture, ranging from
rock inflections with attitude – the biker jacket reworked in size and shape, studs, a prevalence of
black, the use of leather – to a repertoire of floaty ballerina dresses with wide super-feminine skirts.
USED – Slim and oversize contrast in a look that copies English rock from the seventies and
eighties: asymmetric shapes and generous volumes for knitwear, stretch jeans full of rips with
leather details. The hand-made concept is a constant that turns each irregularity in the leather into
added value. The collection’s top garments are the hand-made leather “little biker” boot, stretch jeans
with yoke in pleated nubuck leather, belt with metal studs, leather biker jacket with hood and cuffs in
wool and accessories in faded python.
Rhinestones and Swarovski
2ME – With its colourful fun variants the 2me earpiece turns a functional object into a fashion
accessory. From the Young line – pink flower-shaped earpieces, red to look like strawberries or lucky
ladybirds – to the Lux range – butterflies and flowers in black, white and pink with Swarovski crystals
and 18k gold – through to the more fashionable Skull line.
ALESSANDRA AIROLDI – Metal bracelets with rhinestones become elegant cuffs that come
almost up to the elbow. The various bangles that make up the cuffs are light enough to show off the
central bracelet that steals the scene with clever use of light and colour created by the flowery details.
Made up of 25 or 36 glittering bangles in different shapes and shades, the cuffs mix metals, stones and
crystals.
SWEET MATILDA – Messages that reveal emotions and tell of unexpected states of mind on T-shirts.
Glitter, rhinestones and studs highlight hearts, mouths, love notes and other elements like nail
polishes, perfumes and shoes: indispensable female tools of seduction. For the Autumn Winter 201112 collection, Sweet Matilda garments are given the precious treatment with cashmere and silk. All
rounded out by the new jewel capsule collection “Shalosh per Sweet Matilda”.
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Surrealism and Pop Culture
COCKTAIL – Dresses and coats where shapes and volumes are a clever mix of fifties’ severity
and softer, less structured styles. Prints on silk or fine wool jersey are the strong point of a collection
that looks to the fabulous fifties and Pop Art and breathes strong plain colours, tie-dyes and lively
patterns.
GASTÒN LIBERTO – Born in Patagonia, at home in Barcelona since 2000, the creativity of Gastòn
Liberto draws on Latin-American realism and Pop Surrealism for the prints in the T-shirt
collection, but also on daily technology and experience that interacts with childhood memories. Plus a
range of leggings, brooches and little chains in worn silver with illustrations by Gastòn.
LEITMOTIV - “Light-Motiv” is a modern fable, a dreamlike land interwoven with cultured
reworkings of the past, suspended in a dimension without time, where formulas such as “once
upon a time” and “they all lived happily ever after” are no longer in fashion. Easy fitting and fluid or 3D
and voluminous, silhouettes satisfy any female whim. Classic and elegantly sensual, they contrast with
a playful imagination. Fabrics too satisfy the requirements of the contemporary woman whose wardrobe
is an alternation of voluptuous silks, soft velvets and innovative technical fabrics. The jacquard bags
covered in polyurethane are unique, as are the necklaces with microchips encased in droplets of
crystal.
Total Look in Knits
BAFY – Women’s knitwear is coloured by vintage and grunge moods, and plays around with a
reworked French touch. Modern refined fits, oversize volumes and lengths adjusted in line with the
most up-to-date trends. But also, alongside the avant-garde ideas, a line with a more basic taste.
Colours from nature, hazy and dusty, are the main players, and give garments a lived-in underground
look: earth, mud, powder, cloud, sage and truffle together with evocative shades of grey. Materials used
are cashmere, pure wools and other fine yarns.
CIEL – British womenswear label, bold yet romantic, founded by Sarah Ratty, pioneer of the Brit
Eco Fashion, Ciel, a winner of numerous awards and a hit with celebrities, follows a philosophy based
on continual innovation. It prefers simple linear aesthetics. Beautiful garments made from the best eco
fabrics, produced in collaboration with European and South American communities that supply
innovative eco-friendly bio materials as part of fair-trade agreements. Knits in the softest organic
alpaca, sophisticated articles in draped jersey. One of the names in The Green Closet.
TUA NUA – 100% merino wool, cashmere and baby alpaca are the selected materials for a line of
knitwear with romantic yet contemporary appeal. Patterns in honey, comet and peacock shades on
little smooth knit dresses and warm cardigan-coats in cable tricot. Fingerless gloves, small ruffles,
scarves complete a clean-cut feminine total look.
WETPAINT – Total look in knits. Produced by a Vicenza-based knitting company backed by 50 years of
history. From a rich selection of knitted dresses in different lengths to a line of accessories like
stoles and kefiahs, right through to basic knitwear in updated shapes. Materials used are 100%
extrafine merino wool, cashmere merino blend, cashmere and baby alpaca blend, extrafine merino and
nylon-jersey blend, viscose with wool and a bit of elastane.
A used look for Boots and Sneakers
BB VINTAGE BY BRUNO BORDESE – A passion for “archaeological” recuperation of vintage
accessories, fuelled by the most famous flea markets in Europe and elsewhere, leads to the birth of
the BB Vintage line by Bruno Bordese. The designer showcases perfect replicas of his favourite
models, faithfully copied from examples in the past using fine materials and craftsmanship techniques.
LE VOICE SHOES – For the A-W 2011/12 season, the Women’s line expands to include Classic shoes
reworked in used leathers and soft shapes. Articles that stand out in the range are Oxfords in
buffalo, ankle boots in nubuck, sneakers in reverse sheepskin, the half-boot in nappa and aged buffalos
and the Derby in two-tone patent. A more street style despite classic footwear imprinting.
PANTOFOLA D'ORO 1886 – To crown its 125th anniversary, Pantofola d'Oro has decided to
produce a special commemorative shoe in a limited edition, designed in 1934 for freestyle
wrestling and restyled in 1944. The milestone of an evolution process that makes it a must-have for the
next season; ankle high with a non-skid sole, it comes in two versions (canvas with leather details and
aged calfskin). The classic 1920s model has also been redesigned, developed in line with the Chelsea
boot, the ankle boot or even women’s thigh-high boots in nappa or garment-dyed stretch suede.
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The Venice of your dreams
CLARMONÌA – A line of bags that recalls the elegant sensual atmosphere of Venetian palazzos.
A past of luxury and culture, with oriental influences and decorative frills, brought up to date with
creative flair. Distinctive features, gold hand-stitching, embroidery and linings in 100% printed silk with
the exclusive decorative logo in Liberty style. The jewels, this season’s new entry, draw their inspiration
from the decorative shapes of Venetian mosaics and Burano lace. Gold is the only colour, enriched with
satin ribbons and Swarovski crystals. The bags take on a warm soft appearance in natural effect
calfskins and quilted deerskin. Day-bags are still the main players, together with the special editions in
fine materials, including a capsule in anthracite dappled pony with inserts in nubuck and ochre silk.
YVONE CHRISTA NEW YORK – Femininity in its pure state for the new collection by these two
designers based in New York, which combines the naturalness of pearls and silver with romantic floral
inspiration. Jewels that are unique pieces: entirely handmade in sterling silver, semi-precious stones
and pearls, using the ancient Venetian filigree techniques.
Water Protection
BAGNO NETTUNO – Summer trends are reconfirmed for the upcoming season. Wood! Wood! Wood!
In a winter key, reverse sheepskins and colourful felts see the birth of clogs, short boots and boots with
a sport chic flavour and very warm soul. For the rain: Rain Boots with accessories and original
trimmings to cheer up wet days. The thread running through the collection is once again the marked
craftsmanship in attention to details and choice of materials.
GI’N’GI – Hats made in Tuscany, with strong innovative allure. The colours of the new collection are
inspired by the warm hues of the earth and the colder ones of the sky. Cosy hats or masculine
panamas, but also new shapes studied to enhance any face shape. The hats are joined this year by an
exclusive collection of articles in cashmere and a new shopping bag. Constant research and awareness
of eco issues are evident in the choice of materials: soft warm woollens for cold winter days, while
waterproofed materials star on stormy autumn days.
KARTELL – The season’s new entry is Demi Sofia, a short boot inspired by the Sofia boot,
copying the tapered shape of the foot, the shiny 5 cm wedge, the side straps and naturally the leathersoft plastic of the matt upper that contrasts with the heel. Alongside this, the winter colour range of
Sofia, Glue Cinderella and Lady and the pump designed by Moschino.
PASOTTI – Famous for its umbrellas in double fabric, inside and out, for the new season the brand
focuses on materials such as leathers, Swarovski, bamboo, silver and on a varied range of handles.
Strong articles include the Crystallized model with Swarovski details and the one with skulls.
This Glossary has been put together thanks to contribution by the exhibiting companies.
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