Strawberry Planting Time
For years, gardeners have grown the strawberry plant as a
perennial with limited success. In Louisiana, the greatest production
is achieved from plants grown as annuals, and some growers in our
parish are producing strawberries with some great success.
Speaking of plants, the first step in successful strawberry
production is choosing varieties adapted to the areas in which they
are to be grown. The varieties at this time are:
 Strawberry Festival – developed by the University of Florida.
Earliest maturing variety, medium-long fruiting period, light
red, medium to large berries, good quality, not susceptible to
anthracnose fruit rot.
 Chandler - developed by the University of California. High
yields fairly early, deep red berry, somewhat soft, good to fair
quality, susceptible to the development of misshapen fruit
when blooming during times of low temperatures.
 Camarosa - developed by the University of California.
Camarosa is a little earlier than Chandler with more firmness,
well-shaped fruit with only fair quality.
 Sweet Charlie - developed by the University of Florida. Early
maturing, short fruiting period, light red berries, well to fair
quality.
Within the last 10 years, the production of strawberry plants in
Louisiana has become extremely difficult because of the incidence of
crown rot. Few plants are produced in the state. Growers obtain
plants from commercial nurseries in California, Michigan, Oregon
and Canada (Nova Scotia). Plants from each source have unique
characteristics and problems:
 California Plants: Large leafy plants without leaves with
medium late season maturity. These plants need to be planted
in early October.
 Canadian Plants: Large leafy plants with a medium early
season maturity. Fruit tends to concentrate at mid-season.
 Michigan Plants: Medium-sized plants with a large root system
and early season maturity.
Site Selection
Strawberries should be planted in a full sun site with deep
sandy soil, having good drainage. The recommended soil pH for
strawberries should be range from 5.2-6.0. Gardeners are urged to
take soil samples and adjust the soil pH to the desired level before
transplanting. A convenient water supply for irrigation is desirable.
Often, small plantings (10-25 plants) are not successful because of
bird damage. For successful home garden plantings, some type of
bird netting is required. Larger plantings (100 to 500 plants) help to
spread out the bird damage and allow gardeners to harvest adequate
berries.
Strawberries are a long-term plant and require a considerable
amount of fertilizer to make a good crop. From 6 to 8 pounds of 8-2424 or 8to10 pounds of 13-13-13 per 100 feet of row is sufficient for
strawberries. Fertilizer needs to be put down in September, well
ahead of planting. To avoid fertilizer burn, wait for a rain (1 inch to 2
inch) or irrigate before putting out mulch and planting.
Strawberries should be side dressed in January or early
February with ½ pound to 1 pound of ammonium nitrate or 1 pound
to 2 pounds of calcium nitrate per 100 feet of row. Another side
dressing in mid-March or early April may be necessary if the plants
are pale green. These side dressings help to maintain plant vigor and
fruit size through the fruiting season.
Mulching
To prevent splashing of soil particles on the fruit, strawberries
should be mulched. Pine straw or other natural mulches have been
used for years. One bale of pine straw will cover a 25 to 30 foot row
(75 to 100 sq. ft.) bed. Apply the mulch in late November and
December. Be sure all the mulch is snug against the base of the plant
and that the plants are well above the mulch.
Black plastic mulch is used widely. The advantages of plastic
mulch are earlier fruiting, prevention of dirt splashing on the fruit
and weed control. Plastic 36 to 48 inches wide and 1 ½ to 2 mil thick
is the size most often used in strawberry production. It is important
that the plastic mulch be snug to the surface of the row and covered
well on both sides of the row with soil. Gardeners are encouraged to
have the rows settled and firmed by rainfall or irrigate before putting
out plastic. If the soil is firm and moist at the time of transplanting,
plants will usually not settle below the plastic, fewer plants will die,
and growth and development of the plants will be enhanced.
Transplanting
Gardeners should transplant only well-developed plants, with
good root systems.
Best yields are usually realized when
transplanting is done in mid-October to early November. Use a
trowel to make slits to plant the plants. A 3-6 inch slit is large enough
for the strawberry plant on plastic mulch. The bud and crown of the
plant should be above ground and the roots below ground level.
Plants set to high will suffer from root injury from exposure. Those
set to low will usually suffer from bud or crown injury. Firm the soil
around the roots to prevent drying out. After the plot has been
planted, water the plants to settle the soil around the roots.
There are some insect and disease associated with strawberries.
For recommended plant sources as well as a pesticide spray schedule,
feel free to call Rafash Brew at your Lincoln Parish Extension Office
at 251-5134.