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NEW ENGLAND SOUP FACTORY
BY DREW SPANGLER FAULKNER
“Fall is like opening day at New England Soup Factory,” effuses Marjorie Druker, executive chef and co-owner. “It is
the most beautiful time of year for food. All the gifts that
God has granted us, all the plants that have been nurtured
all summer, come into fruition.”
The offerings at the
New England Soup Factory always follow the season. At this time of year,
however, customers are
met with the smells, sights
and tastes of the fall season with offerings such as
Pumpkin and White
Bean, and Apple, Onion
and Cheddar soups. To
further enhance a fall
meal, one will find chewy
molasses cookies, fragrant
pumpkin bread and large,
crisp taffy apples.
Marjorie has always
loved making soups. Long
before she started selling
soup professionally, she had a reputation amongst her
friends and family for her luscious soups. She was often
asked to make a soup as a favor to a friend, to deliver to
someone in the hospital or to give to the mom of a newborn.
That former hobby has developed into a business that
produces and sells 200 to 300 gallons of fresh soups a day.
Marjorie and her husband, Paul Brophy, opened the first
New England Soup Factory in 1995 in Brookline, MA.
Today there is a second location in Newton. Marjorie and
one member of her staff continue a tradition begun 12 years
ago: They produce all of the soups by hand in 40-gallon
batches.
Interestingly, it was Marjorie’s husband, Paul, who pro-
vided the original impetus for the stores. After graduating
from Johnson & Wales culinary school, both were employed
in the restaurant industry. When their daughter was born,
Marjorie decided to stay home with her. Every night when
Paul returned from his job, Marjorie found herself pelting
him with questions about
his experiences in the
restaurant.
Keenly aware of his
wife’s creative energy and
personality, Paul arrived
home one day in 1995
and announced to her, “I
got you a location today.
You are going to start a
business.”
“What business?” inquired Marjorie. “Whatever you want.” he
replied. The New England Soup Factory was
the result.
Marjorie feels that each
of the soups she develops exhibits a distinct personality. Like
the people who enjoy them, some of her soups are classy,
others Bohemian, sexy, erotic or traditional. For example,
she feels her summer Watermelon and Lychee Gazpacho is
clearly erotic. “Everyone has their own way about them,”
says Marjorie, “yet we all have a bit of all those traits within
us.” Marjorie enjoys it when “my customers trust me with
their palate and are willing to go someplace new.” Her goal
is to create distinctly individual soups that can be enjoyed
by all.
Marjorie admits to being obsessed with ingredients. She
loves scouring local markets and stores and meeting with
fishermen and farmers in order to find top-quality ingredients. Realistically, however, it is not possible for her to obtain from local farms the 400 to 500 pounds of produce
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fall 2007
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that she needs daily. The growing season in New England is
just not long enough.
But when the local growing window is open, she seizes
upon it. She feels that it is incumbent on chefs to keep local,
sustainable agriculture, livestock farming and fishing alive.
For example, she purchases fall apples for taffy apples from
Volante Farms in Needham, MA. They also supply her with
“the most extraordinary lettuce,” Italian prune plums and
Cinderella pumpkins in season. Additionally, she sells locally
produced products such as Carlson Orchard apple cider
from Harvard, MA, which she describes as tasting like apple
champagne.
Marjorie’s latest project has been the production of the
New England Soup Factory Cookbook, which she co-wrote
with Clara Silverstein. Marjorie describes it as being as
much a memoir as a cookbook.
“When I make my soups I am pouring my love, passion
and emotion in,” she exudes. It is this same passion and
sense of creativity that she has worked to pass on to her
cookbook readers. Another quality take-home item produced by Marjorie, designed both to awaken our individual
sense of curiosity and adventure and to contribute to the
warmth and camaraderie of our individual homes and workplaces.
Chef, cooking teacher, and journalist, Drew began her culinary career in Newton
Centre, MA, with Madeleine Kamman studying French and Italian cuisines.
Since then she has traveled the world studying various cuisines. Today her energy
is focused on writing and teaching. She has most recently taught at Sur la Table
in Canton, CT.
Ap p l e , O ni o n a nd C h e d d a r S ou p
by Marjorie Druker
Chef/Co-Owner, New England Soup Factory
This soup is perfect for a Sunday open-house party during the
cool fall months. It incorporates apples and cheese, which are
also an old-fashioned combination for a pie in New England.
The soup builds contrasting layers of sweetness, starting with
the apple cider in the stock. Into that go the onions, sautéed
slowly until they are perfectly browned and sweet. Green apples
add tartness.
Makes 12 servings
3 Tbsp. butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 large Spanish onions, peeled and thinly sliced
4 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups apple cider
2 tsp. caraway seeds
1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp. Calvados (apple brandy)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a stockpot melt the butter over medium heat. Add the
garlic and onions. Sauté for 25 minutes, or until the onions
are soft and golden. Add the sliced apples and sauté an additional 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock, apple cider, caraway seeds, and thyme. Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover the pot, and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes.
Remove the pot from the stove. Add the cream, cheddar
cheese, and Parmesan cheese. Stir until the cheeses melt
completely. Add the Calvados and season with salt and pepper. Return to the stove and simmer an additional
3 minutes.
Recipe reprinted from
The New England Soup Factory Cookbook:
More Than 100 Recipes from the Nation’s Best
Purveyor of Fine Soup
with permission from Thomas Nelson, Inc.
Copyright 2007 by Marjorie Druker.
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fall 2007
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Pum p ki n a n d W hi te Bea n So up
by Marjorie Druker
Chef/Co-Owner, New England Soup Factory
This is my favorite pumpkin soup recipe. I created it after I had eaten a magnificent butternut squash ravioli with brown butter
and sage at Olives restaurant near Boston, chef-owner Todd English’s home base. I had to see if I could make a soup that could
remind me of its perfectly balanced flavors. I played with the spices and ingredients, and found that white beans gave me better
results than pasta. Whenever I taste this soup, it reminds me of that meal at Olives. I am thankful to Chef Todd for inspiring
me to create bold and spirited dishes.
Makes 12 to 14 servings
2 1/2 pounds pumpkin, peeled and cut into
3/4-inch cubes, divided
1 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
4 Tbsp. butter
4 whole cloves garlic, peeled
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and chopped
2 ribs celery, diced
5 carrots, peeled and sliced
10 cups chicken stock
1/2 tsp. rubbed sage
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional,
for garnish
1/2 cup cream sherry
pepper, to taste
2 cups cooked cannellini beans
1/4 cup torn fresh basil leaves, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place 3 cups of the pumpkin in a roasting pan. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt
and pepper. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until soft and brown on the outer edges. Set aside.
Melt the butter in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, onion, celery, and carrots. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add the
remaining pumpkin and sauté for an additional 5 minutes. Add the stock, sage, and nutmeg. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat
to medium, cover the pot, and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft and tender. Remove from the heat
and add the brown sugar, cheese, and sherry. Puree the soup in the pot using a hand blender or working in batches with a
regular blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cannellini beans and the reserved roasted pumpkin chunks.
Stir well. Serve in big, deep bowls with the basil leaves and freshly shaved Parmesan cheese.
Recipe reprinted from The New England Soup Factory Cookbook: More Than 100 Recipes from the Nation’s Best
Purveyor of Fine Soup with permission from Thomas Nelson, Inc. Copyright 2007 by Marjorie Druker.
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