Formulating for Whole Foods Compliance
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Formulating for Whole Foods Compliance Chris Boone Agenda • • • • • • • Other lists to watch How was the Whole Foods list created? Sulfates Betaines Acids Preservatives Sunscreens Why should we pay attention? • Wal-Mart said that, beginning in January 2015, it would require suppliers to disclose ingredients online for items sold at its stores,, and In January 2016, it would begin to report publicly on what progress is being made The Whole Foods List http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/about-ourproducts/premium-body-care-standards How was it created? How It Really Was Created XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Attention to Details • • • • • Misspellings Classes of product listed Non-INCI designations No peer review Nutritionist? Changes Since Inception • • • • • Last modified 12/13 Added note section Not INCI compliant Must prove to be from “natural” source Added acceptable if used as pH adjustment “Sulfates” • Sulfosuccinates • Sulfonates • Alkyl sulfates Sulfosuccinates Secondary surfactants commonly used in bubble baths and children’s products because of their mildness Products on the list Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Disodium Oleamido Sulfosuccinate Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Laureth Sulfosuccinate • Not INCI compliant • Not proper chemical name Sulfosuccinates Products on the list Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Disodium Oleamido Sulfosuccinate Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Laureth Sulfosuccinate How to get around restriction • Use Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate • Use Ammonium Laureth Sulfosuccinate • Use Disodium Oleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate? • Use something else, they aren’t that stable anyway Sulfonates Primary surfactants sometimes used as “sulfate-free” but will not work for Whole Foods Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate Olefin Sulfonate Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate • Not INCI compliant • Not proper chemical name Sulfonates Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate Olefin Sulfonate Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate How to get around restriction • Use Sodium C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate • Use another carbon chain length not listed Sulfates Primary surfactants used in most shampoos and body washes Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Myristyl Ether Sulfate Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate Sodium Coco Sulfate Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Myreth Sulfate Sodium Trideceth Sulfate TEA-Lauryl Sulfate Sulfates Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Myristyl Ether Sulfate Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate Sodium Coco Sulfate Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Myreth Sulfate Sodium Trideceth Sulfate TEA-Lauryl Sulfate How to get around restriction • Use Sodium C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate • Use a base with APGs and other secondary surfactants Betaines Betaines Most common secondary surfactant, often used with alkyl sulfates babassuamidopropyl betaine betaine cetyl betaine coco betaine Lauryl Amidopropyl Betaine Lauryl betaine lauryl glucoside betaine oleyl betaine Wheat germamidopropyl betaine • Not INCI compliant • Not proper chemical name Betaines babassuamidopropyl betaine betaine cetyl betaine coco betaine Lauryl Amidopropyl Betaine Lauryl betaine lauryl glucoside betaine oleyl betaine Wheat germamidopropyl betaine How to get around restriction • Use Cocamidopropyl Betaine • Use Sultaines • Use products above but be sure to have documentation that they are from natural source Acids Acids AHA and BHA type AHAs alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid Lactic acid salicylic acid “Other” type kojic acid myristic acid phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Thiotic acid Acids Ingredients used in facial anti-aging, anti-acne products AHAs alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid Lactic acid salicylic acid How to get around restriction: • Use citric acid Note: some are OK if used as pH adjustment Whole Foods Brand Daily Facial Cleanser aqua (water), sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, glycerin, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, panthenol, sodium citrate, caprylyl glycol, citric acid, natural aroma Acids “Other” type kojic acid myristic acid phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Thiotic acid Kojic Acid – used in skin whitening and restricted on other lists as well • Use Vitamin C for whitening Myristic Acid – Fatty acids are commonly used in PC • Use Stearic Acid or any other carbon chain not C14 • OK that it’s part of coconut fatty acid Acids “Other” type kojic acid myristic acid phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Thiotic acid Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid • Also known as Ensulizole for sunscreens (more later) PABA • Not used in sun care since the 80’s – irrelevant Thiotic Acid – not an actual chemical • Thioctic Acid is probably what they are referring to – which is an antioxidant found in lots of different foods • Use Vitamin C instead Sunscreens Sunscreens Sunscreen actives not allowed on the list avobenone benzophenone homosalate methoxycinnamate octinoxate octisalate octocrylene oxybenzone parsol phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Sunscreens avobenone benzophenone homosalate methoxycinnamate octinoxate octisalate octocrylene oxybenzone parsol phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Benzophenone • Which one? Methoxycinnamate and Octinoxate • Same? Ethylhexyl? Parsol • Tradename for DSM Sunscreens avobenone benzophenone homosalate methoxycinnamate octinoxate octisalate octocrylene oxybenzone parsol What to use instead • Zinc Oxide • Titanium Dioxide • Make sure they aren’t “nano” because nanotechnology is on their banned list! phenylbenzimidazole‐5‐sulfonic acid And I thought Whole Foods was into “organic”! PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (see PABA) Preservatives Preservatives Preservatives and biocides not allowed on the list bronopol DMDM Hydantoin formaldehyde germaben germall imidazolidinyl urea iodopropylnyl butyl carbamate methylisothiazolinone methylchloroisothiazolinone methyl paraben parabens quaternium-15 Preservatives Bronopol • No longer used widely in PC Germaben and Germall • Trade names of preservative blends Parabens • Not INCI compliant • Ethylparaben? bronopol DMDM Hydantoin formaldehyde germaben germall imidazolidinyl urea iodopropylnyl butyl carbamate methylisothiazolinone methylchloroisothiazolinone methyl paraben parabens quaternium-15 Preservatives What can I use instead? • • • • • • Benzoic Acid Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol Ethylhexyl Glycerin Glyceryl Caprylate Caprylhydroxamic Acid • Blends of the above products bronopol DMDM Hydantoin formaldehyde germaben germall imidazolidinyl urea iodopropylnyl butyl carbamate methylisothiazolinone methylchloroisothiazolinone methyl paraben parabens quaternium-15 Questions?
