75
YEARS OF
CHARITY
CELEBRATING TWO TEN
FOOTWEAR NEWS | NOVEMBER 24, 2014 | VOLUME 70 | NO. 40
LIFT OFF
Move over, single soles. TOM FORD’s
leopard calf-hair heels are tall, dark
and intriguing in every way. For more
spring ’15 standouts, turn to page 45.
born in A D V E N T U R E
khombu.com
raised in the C I T Y
CONTENTS
From top:
Gianvito
Rossistyles
x
Seaside
slip-on
Maryfor
Katrantzou
him (Vincepump,
Camuto)
Oscar de la
Renta
stiletto
and
her (Klub
Nico)
We handstitched each
of these plume
d’oie onto a
mesh. Sometimes
nature is more
beautiful than
anything you
could imagine
yourself.”
— Oscar de la Renta’s
Daniel Lawler
10 Retail News
Rebecca Minkoff and Ugg tap technology
just in time for the holiday season.
12 FN Spy
Inside Janie Bryant’s newest fashion venture ...
Bergdorf gets in the holiday spirit.
14 Top Stories
Jack Erwin is taking an unconventional
approach to retailing in New York.
15 Top Stories
Lacoste gears up for a 2016 women’s relaunch.
TWO TEN MILESTONE
18 Neal’s Diamond
The footwear foundation’s president
recaps a 75-year legacy, and shares what’s
in store for the future.
20 Party City
Two Ten’s annual gala like you’ve never
seen it before.
22 Female Power
How WIFI has been supporting footwear’s
female workforce, and how it will continue
its momentum.
24 House Calls
Shoe company employees on times when
they were in need, and how Two Ten
stepped in to help.
26 Board Certified
Leaders talk about their Two Ten experiences.
30 Helping Hands
How does the foundation help thee? FN
counts the ways.
32 Pay It Forward
The scholarships getting the industry’s
students and veterans ahead.
34 15 Facts
The impact of Footwear Cares adds up.
36 Staff Secrets
What Two Ten employees love most.
38 Time Travel
A look back to the past.
PHOTO: THOMAS IANNACCONE
INSIDER
7 Up Front
Prabal Gurung is making footwear a major
part of his growth strategy.
CONTENTS
Prabal Gurung
Eytys’ new flagship
in Stockholm
FN FEATURES
Jessie Lagasse Swanson
(left) and Jilly Lagasse
46 Show Offs
Misfits, sure, but no missteps here. The
boldest statement shoes for spring ’15.
FN PICK
68 Hunger Strikes
Jennifer Lawrence wins again with her look
for the premiere of “The Hunger Games:
Mockingjay, Part 1.”
MARKETPLACE
52 Luxury Origins
Read a page from the diary of Giuseppe
Santoni.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s
platform sandal
56 Blake Afire
What Toms’ Blake Mycoskie is looking
forward to with his brand.
58 Eytys Pops
Two Stockholm natives come together to
create a minimalistic brand.
60 Good Taste
Olympic gold medalist Caroline Ouellette
talks about her loves and fancies.
62 Cook’s Choice
For two chefs, comfort is king in the kitchen
and cool on the street.
64 Lemon Squeeze
Yellow hues shine on kids’ looks.
66 Getting Picked
Taking a bite out of baby moccasins.
67 Buzz
Launches and brand expansions for spring.
2|
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
PHOTOS: GURUNG, SHOES: THOMAS IANNACCONE; LAGASSE SISTERS: COURTESY OF LAGASSES; STORE: COURTESY OF BRAND
54 Trim & Her
Menswear touches adorn feminine styles.
CHILDREN’S FOOTWEAR
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| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
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INSIDER
UP FRONT × ON DEADLINE × NEWSMAKERS
Prabal Gurung
in his New York
showroom
PRABAL’S
PLAN
Q&A
He’s young, bold
and determined.
Why this designer is banking on
shoes as his next major growth
opportunity. BY KRISTEN HENNING
PHOTO: THOMAS IANNACCONE
F
or Prabal Gurung, timing was
everything when it came to launching
footwear.
“Instead of getting immediately
into it, I wanted to understand the
business,” said Gurung, who’s had a longtime passion for shoes. “I’ve always been fascinated by this
idea of completing a look. As an apparel designer,
you start by creating clothes, and there is always a
shoe you envision, especially on the runway.”
Gurung, who launched his ready-to-wear label
in 2009, has racked up a lot of knowledge in the
past five years through collaborations with top
footwear designers such as Manolo Blahnik,
Nicholas Kirkwood and Cesare Casadei.
In fact, Casadei crafted the shoes for the
designer’s New York Fashion Week shows for
four seasons.
“When thinking of Prabal, I will never forget
the immediate synergy and connection the first
time I met him,” Casadei said. “We share exactly
the same passions and commitment to quality,
craftsmanship and attention to detail. He is young
and so talented at the same time.”
For his debut spring ’15 collection, Gurung, who
is an avid traveler, tapped into recent trips and his
own heritage for inspiration.
“Having grown up in Nepal, I really value my
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
|7
INSIDER
UP FRONT × Prabal Gurung
Q&A
solitude time when I’m exploring,”
said the designer. “The first season was
inspired by luxurious trekking, You’ll
see strap details, little spikes, very much what I
see in nature.”
Priced at $695 to $1,165, the new collection is
comprised of six styles.
While Gurung is banking on footwear to play
a major role in the label’s expansion, he doesn't
want to move too quickly with it.
“For the first few seasons, we are going to be
very careful about how we distribute,” Gurung
said. “It’s extremely important to get feedback
instead of putting out a ton of product.”
Overall, the designer has crafted a five- and
10-year plan that is primarily focused on growing in the brand’s home base of New York. “We
already have a great presence, but we are looking to strengthen our position,” he said. (Top
accounts include Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue,
Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.)
Here, Gurung talks passionately about entering the footwear game, why he handles his own
Instagram and the challenges of being heard.
How big can shoes become for the brand?
PG: Footwear is going to be an extremely important part of our business. As with everything
we do, we are very careful, and the growth plan
is really thought-out. We want to make sure we
are able to meet demands, so I want to build [the
category] slowly but steadily.
Whose advice did you seek out as you ventured
into shoes?
PG: I asked some of my biggest mentors: Carolina Herrera, Caroline Brown (Donna Karan’s incoming CEO) and Anna Wintour. I reached out
to retailers, and I talked to Nicholas [Kirkwood].
I wanted to make sure I had an understanding of
what I was getting into. It was extremely important that I get feedback. I wanted to be luxury,
but at a smart price point.
Where do you fit among competitors?
PG: Everyone is a competitor. If I stay
consistent and have a voice, there is
room for the right kind of product. If I find one
person who likes the [shoes], it’s a job well done.
How is footwear incorporated into your runway
shows?
PG: Footwear plays such a significant role [in illustrating] our type of girl. As designers, we prepare for six months for an eight- to 12-minute
show. We always have taken shoes into account.
More broadly, what is the biggest obstacle
designers face right now?
PG: Not just in fashion, but around the world, we
are living in a very noisy place. How do you cut
through the clutter and noise and speak loudly?
How do you make at least one person turn
around and hear you talk?
You created a lot of buzz with your Target collaboration. Why did you decide to produce a
lower-priced line?
PG: I felt it was extremely important because it
talks about the brand versatility. The world has
changed, and women are shopping differently
than they used to. They are no longer confined
to the world of luxury department stores. Now
they have access to online shopping, and that
has changed how people shop.
What is your biggest piece of advice for new
designers?
PG: The most important thing is to figure out
who you are and stay true to that. Challenge
yourself. Fame is a result of hard work and good
PR. It’s a byproduct of your passion. Everyone’s
time will come.
You’re personally active in your social media.
Why is that important?
PG: I’m very involved because the voice has to
be authentic. All of the joy that I am receiving
by doing what I love doing, I want to be able to
share it via social media. It helps [consumers]
get to know me, and I’m very curious about the
women and girls who are interested in my world
because I’m interested in their world, too.
What do you want consumers to know
about you?
PG: My hope is for consumers to understand the
product and my philosophy of femininity with a
bite. I’m a very product-driven person.
You’re also passionate about your charity
effort, Shikshya Foundation Nepal, which supports the education of displaced children. Why
is that cause meaningful to you?
PG: I’m here by the virtue of incredible support.
I’ve been fortunate enough to build this on my
own without investors. Because of my work, I
have a platform and a responsibility to be able
to divert that attention to a cause that is truly
important. Education is freedom, and freedom
brings choices.
Where do you see the brand in the future?
PG: We definitely want to get into handbags and
small leather goods. The most exciting time is
now, and the next 10 to 15 years are going to
be everything I’ve dreamt about: [crafting] a
brand that can be global.
The shoes on the
spring ’15 runway
You’ve lived in a lot of diverse cities. How has
that shaped your perceptions about fashion?
PG: I was born in Singapore, raised in Nepal, and
moved to London and New York. Globally, the
landscape of the business has changed completely. I was just in Bombay and in China, and
the language of clothes varies culturally. Accessories are a universal language for women.
8|
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
PHOTO: COURTESY OF BRAND
What footwear lessons have you learned?
PG: It felt like I was going back to school. It’s
a whole different ball game. It is one product
where functionality and the design aesthetic
truly need to meet. And shoes need [to evoke] an
orgasmic reaction.
INSIDER
ON DEADLINE × Top Stories
Retailers Go High-Tech to Drive Sales
EBay and Minkoff again
turned to large touch
screens when they were
NEW YORK — As the holiday shopplanning the latter’s shop.
ping season ramps up, brands are
The technology allows
betting big on technology-driven
consumers to do everything
concept stores to push the boundarfrom ordering a compliies of brick-and-mortar.
Rebecca Minkoff and Ugg Australia mentary latte to selecting
key items they like to take
recently opened new locations that
emphasize personalized styling, con- into a fitting room. The
shopper receives a text
tent and a mobile-ready experience.
message on their phone
“We talked a lot about the path to
when their beverage and
conversion with e-commerce, then
we thought about how we envisioned fitting room are ready.
More importantly, the
things to get that path to work in
wall acts as a virtual merretail,” said Uri Minkoff, CEO of
chandiser that can highRebecca Minkoff. “We saw so many
Ugg’s new store
light a particular product
broken points in the process and
has several
depending on the hour of
started dreaming.”
touch screens
the day or business focus.
While retailers have been strugIt will also feature selected
gling to adapt traditional models to
blogger and Instagram images along- partnered with Control Group, a
an increasingly digital and mobileside its traditional e-commerce shots. New York-based technology retail
first shopper, one of Minkoff’s adfirm, on the project. “This is a big
The emphasis on using technolvantages was that the company had a
test for us, but it’s really about
ogy to craft a personal and local
completely blank slate to work with
experience is a key emphasis for the understanding and enhancing the
stateside — the New York store is the
customer experience,” said Dave
company.
brand’s first in the U.S.
Powers, president of omnichan“We can know when a certain
The company also had an experinel for Deckers. “We know other
shoe and jacket are doing well in a
enced partner in eBay, with whom it
brands have strong social followSan Francisco store, for example,
had worked with on a holiday touchings, which would make sense for
screen pop-up shop last Christmas at and we can prioritize them and adthis type of project, but we chose
just e-commerce messages around
Westfield San Francisco Centre.
Ugg because it has such an elevated
those items,” Minkoff said.
service orientation.”
“[Our technology is across
One of the key aspects of the shopall of our platforms, so]
ping experience, according to both
it can impact the lines of
brands, is the process of discovery.
communication based on a
Ugg has implemented radiocertain area because of the
frequency (RFID) tags in its products
data we are getting.”
to cue unique content, styling suggesIt’s a concept similar to
tions and similar offerings.
that of Deckers Brands’
“Having this information from the
newest Ugg shop at Tysons
screens allows us to know who is in
Galleria in McLean, Va.
the store and what they like. It helps
As part of a push to furus to provide targeted marketing and
ther develop Ugg as a true
multifaceted lifestyle brand, merchandise appropriate for them,”
said Powers.
the 2,110-sq.-ft. shop highRebecca Minkoff took RFID
lights the website in-store,
a step further by creating smart
as well as customization
Rebecca and
fitting rooms that register each
options.
Uri Minkoff in
individual piece that’s brought into
“Ugg
by
You”
and
“Bling
their new store
them. It also allows shoppers to creIt On” allow users to design
ate their own experience using the
and order product on the
fitting room mirror, which doubles
spot. Additionally, touch
as a touch screen, to shop online,
screens let shoppers discall for other sizes and discover
cover new product online
matching pieces. The data collected
that might not be available
from the fitting room also allows
in-store. The company
10 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
Minkoff sales associates to bring
shoppers suggested pieces that they
know have high conversion rates.
So: Will consumers buy into
the tech?
Most experts say yes. “Being innovative, being progressive and being
at the forefront will not only create
customer loyalty but will also help
with the image. This investment is
as much in marketing as it is in retail
efficiency,” said Marshal Cohen, chief
industry analyst at NPD Group.
Other experts are also anticipating brands testing new technology to more nimbly respond to
consumer needs. “We’re seeing
experimentation right now,” said
Andrea Weiss, founder of The O Alliance retail consultants. “Everyone
is watching closely to see what happens, but there is no silver bullet.”
Going forward, Rebecca Minkoff
will bow a San Francisco store in
December and a Los Angeles unit
in 2015, as well as two additional
stores in undisclosed locations. All
will incorporate the new format.
“We have had so many people in
[the past few days saying], ‘You
gave me something I never knew I
wanted, and now I can’t live without it,’” Minkoff said.
At Ugg, Deckers plans to debut
its technology in all future stores,
as well as integrate it into its 120
existing Ugg units.
PHOTOS: MINKOFF: STEVE EICHNER; UGG: COURTESY OF BRAND
BY MARGARET SUTHERLIN
SPY
Janie Bryant
Janie’s Journey
Janie Bryant is mad about Shoes of Prey. The Emmy Award-winning
costume designer recently teamed up with the online retailer on a capsule
collection, marking her first foray into shoes. The “Mad Men” and “Deadwood” design ace created seven styles ranging from heeled snakeskin
sandals and red ankle boots to gold-and-black ballet flats. Bryant was a
fan of the company’s shoe-customization ways, too. “I love that anyone
can go online and design their own pair of shoes,” she said. Here, Bryant
gives Spy the scoop on some of her favorite haunts, style icons and which
actress was a favorite to dress.
What Shoes of Prey style from your collection would you wear on a
date with your husband, and what would you do?
“I would wear the D’Orsay Point heel, and we’d go to Bestia in Downtown
Los Angeles. My husband, Peter, and I would share a bowl of their uni
pasta. It’s delicious.”
Who is your dream celebrity to dress in Shoes of Prey?
“Beyoncé, and it would be in the snakeskin sandal. She is such a style
inspiration for me. I love that she wears amazing, sexy outfits when she
performs. She always looks so beautiful and feminine, but she also has an
edge to her style. Beyoncé is everything that shines. I love her music,
love her voice … she is an incredible performer.”
Who was one of your favorite characters to design for on
“Mad Men”?
“Jessica Paré, who played Megan Draper. We did
everything from sandals and chunky low-heel
pumps to mod ankle, knee-length and laceup boots. I loved the variation in all of the
shoes she wore.”
You’re based in Los Angeles, yet you’ve also lived in NYC. What
are some of your favorite vintage stores on either coast?
“Cherry Vintage in New York City is the best resource for vintage
shoes. My resource for amazing shoes here in Los Angeles is a
vendor I met at the Rose Bowl. His name is Jermel
Nakia. He has amazing taste and the best
Bryant for
Shoes of Prey
taste in vintage shoes.”
12 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
Brian Atwood is a mover and shaker.
The designer recently traveled to
Istanbul, where he opened a
Brian Atwood
shop-in-shop with Harvey
Nichols. Last week, he hit
to Moscow for some photo
shoots and events. “I was only
there for a day and a half, but I
had a fabulous lunch and dinner, plus a nice walk through
the city,” Atwood said. It was
a whirlwind: “Keeping it together with only three hours
of sleep. Press day … Moscow madness,”
Atwood tweeted. For travel attire, there’s
one pair of footwear the designer can’t
travel without. “My Adidas Stan Smiths,”
he said, “and a fur hat to stay warm.”
Stepping Ahead
Zappos Couture is upping the footwear
ante. The offshoot of Zappos’ main site
is set to unveil a handful of new luxe
labels to sit side-by-side such marquee
brands as Oscar de la Renta and Marc
Jacobs. Zappos Couture revealed to Spy
the addition of SJP this November and
Derek Lam Footwear for December.
Launches in January 2015 will include
Band of Outsiders, Dolce & Gabbana
and Proenza Schouler. “We always
want to partner with the top brands our
customers are asking for,” said Eileen
Tetreault, director of fashion strategy.
In other news, the e-tailer is launching a
20,000-sq.-ft. pop-up shop in downtown
Las Vegas for the holidays. The physical store, Zappos’ first, will play up tech
features and be open through Dec. 31.
World of Windows
Bergdorf Goodman unwrapped its
intricate arts-themed holiday windows
last week, but the undertaking has been
a nearly yearlong effort. “We begin
planning on Jan. 2, so it is an 11-month
process,” said
David Hoey,
the retailer’s
resident window dresser.
“Research
and development continue
Bergdorf’s
through the
windows
winter, and in
mid-summer,
we are in full
production.” A
28-person team
spends two
weeks installing
the windows.
What is Hoey’s
favorite this
year? “A highlight is a window
meant to evoke
the marquee of
a midcentury
movie palace. We used over 600 feet of
multicolored tubing,” he said.
Richie Rich
To round out her year of standout style,
Nicole Richie is also gearing up for the
holidays with her daughter, Harlow, and
son, Sparrow. Yet her motherly duties
only sometimes overlap with her stylesetting ways. “I think of fashion as a form
of self-expression, as long as it’s appropriate,” she said. “My son had a mohawk
until last week. I love a mohawk, of
course, but he made that decision
on his own.” As for her own style,
comfort is key for Richie. “[It]
leads everything,” she insisted.
“I’m not the girl who will wear
7-inch heels and be miserable all night.” It’s fitting that
Richie will be honored next
week at the Footwear News
Achievement Awards as the
Rihanna
Style Influencer of the Year.
SPOTTED...
Rihanna rocking Altuzarra. The star stepped out wearing the
brand’s Coco sandals to complete her more-covered-up-thanusual look at a Mac Cosmetics event in Los Angeles.
By Kristen Henning, with contributions from Katie Abel and Jessica Kaplan
PHOTOS: BRYANT, SHOES OF PREY: COURTESY OF BRAND; ATWOOD AND BG WINDOWS: C OURTESY OF COMPANY; RIHANNA: GETTY IMAGES
Moscow Mule
INSIDER
ON DEADLINE × Top Stories
Jack Erwin Edges
Into New York
with orders then placed via the
website.
The concept helps keep costs
NEW YORK — When it comes to
in check since no product is kept
selling shoes, Lane Gerson and
on hand. Meanwhile, the FitAriel Nelson prefer the direct
ting Room gives the partners a
approach.
chance to “engage with customAfter launching in 2013 Jackers” and learn firsthand what
erwin.com, which offers classic
men are looking for in their
footwear for men, the two are
footwear, Gerson said.
extending their reach with the
“It’s online meeting offline,”
opening of The Fitting Room, a
companion brick-and-mortar busi- Nelson said. He emphasized that
ness located in New York’s Tribeca men don’t mind waiting several
days for their shoes to be delivneighborhood.
ered to their door, as an alternaInvestors have been steadily
tive to carrying them around.
coming aboard. Recently, a
The unorthodox approach to
$9 million Series B investment
retail is starting to gain traction
in the business was led by Brown
elsewhere, too. Just last week, Paul
Shoe Co. This followed a $2 milDrish, a new men’s line out of Inlion Series A investment in Febdia, debuted with Pauldrish.com,
ruary 2014. Initial funding was
an e-commerce site, as well as a
provided by friends and family.
New York showroom that doubles
The transition from online
as retail space. Here, customers
selling to a storefront was always
can book an appointment to see
in the business plan. “Tribeca’s
the selection as well as
be fitted. Orders are then
Inside The
placee online and shipped
Fitting Room
to their homes.
Gerson and Nelson
were newbies to the
industry when they
launched the business.
Nelson, 31, was formerly
in food and beverages,
while Gerson, 32, has a
background in accounting.
Inspiration for the collection came
a neighborhood we enjoy, and
when they had to attend a wedding
it represents the ethos of our
for which they couldn’t find reabrand,” Nelson said about the
sonably priced classic footwear.
collection, which targets men
After a serendipitous enemployed in the area’s financial
counter with industry veteran
institutions. Retailing from $95
Bertrand Guillaume, they found
to $220, the line includes oxfords,
the expert they needed to oversee
penny mocs and chukka boots,
production and design.
all made in Spain from leathers
Gerson and Nelson said it’s too
produced in Italy and France.
early to predict what percentWhile The Fitting Room offers
age of overall sales the store will
traditional looks, its retail aprepresent. That said, first-year
proach is anything but. Accordonline revenues totaled several
ing to the entrepreneurs, the
location on Hubert Street will not million dollars, with expectations
that number could double over
stock any inventory. Instead, the
the next year. The partners plan
entire offering will be available
to roll out additional stores.
for customers to try on for size,
PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE FITTING ROOM
BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
INSIDER
Top Stories × ON DEADLINE
Lacoste Takes Aim At Women’s Market
PHOTO: COURTESY OF LACOSTE
BY JESSICA KAPLAN
NEW YORK — Lacoste Footwear is
planning an aggressive relaunch of
its women’s collection for spring ’16.
The brand has installed a new
design team and is broadening its
lineup of styles to more effectively
compete in the highly saturated
women’s market.
The initiative comes after the
label polled about 12,000 consumers via an outsource agency to gauge
perception. (Lacoste Footwear is
produced under license with Pentland Group LLC. )
“[We wanted] to get a feel for our
consumers and hear what they are
looking for and how we’re performing,” said Mary Slevin, marketing
and PR director for Lacoste Footwear, who is moving into a newly
created role heading women’s sales
as part of the project. “What we
found was that there is a huge opportunity with women’s that we hadn’t
been capitalizing on thus far.”
Lacoste aims to take the collection in a fresh direction, starting
with a women’s-focused team.
“They’ve restructured our headquarters in the U.K., and that
includes new factories and sourcing, which is something we’ve never
done,” Slevin explained. “[This
group] in the past has generally
been [servicing] all genders.”
Catering more effectively to the
brand’s core consumers is also a big
focus, according to Dave Grange,
president of Lacoste Footwear
North America.
Styles will be grouped under three
categories: sport, casual and casual
elegance. Patent,
suede and premium leathers will
be incorporated
across the roster,
and price points
will range from $60
for canvas looks to
$250 for premium
leather boots.
Lacoste will
focus on expanding
distribution with
existing partners,
including department stores such as Nordstrom, and
Zappos and various independents.
Leading the charge will be Slevin,
who is the first women’s territory
manager in the U.S. market.
“It’s important to me that we have
this kind of dedication,” Grange
A spring ’15
women’s style
said. “Mary can
work with our
partners to build
something that is
absolutely specific
to women’s.”
Though plans
are still taking
shape, Grange
said Lacoste is
slated to hold a
number of launch
events next fall
in key cities like
New York, Miami
and Los Angeles.
“Because we have showrooms in
those places, we can do cool events
where we can showcase the product
and spend time with potential partners,” Grange said. “There is a whole
world around this.”
“
ON BEHALF OF
EVERY
B R O W N S H O E C O M PA N Y
A S S O C I AT E ,
C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S
O N YO U R
OF
T WO T E N
7 5 TH A N N I V E R S A R Y
HELPING THOSE
INDUSTRY
TO
IN OUR
WHEN THEY
N E E D I T M O S T.
”
- D I A N E S U L L I VA N // C E O , P R E S I D E N T & C H A I R M A N
FN MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75
PHOTO: TWO TEN ARCHIVES
Charity Ball
TWO
TEN
@ 75
Two Ten Footwear Foundation has a legacy that can’t be beat. The charitable organization has
raised millions of dollars for thousands of industry families in need. Initiatives like WIFI, YP, HR
Leadership and Footwear Cares prove that, even at 75, the foundation continues to reach more
people in new ways. From its humble beginnings, like at the 1940 banquet above, to next month’s
blockbuster dinner, Two Ten has hit many major milestones. Turn the page for a look back.
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
| 17
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Q&A
Q&A
NEAL’s
DIAMOND
The head of Two Ten talks
about a sparkling 75 years
and beyond. BY KRISTEN HENNING
18 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
Neal Newman, photographed
in Two Ten’s Waltham headquarters
PHOTOS: ADAM DETOUR
N
eal Newman spends
hundreds of hours on the
road. The president of Two
Ten Footwear Foundation
is often putting in face time
with industry executives and
spreading the group’s goodwill mission.
But a recent trip to New York amplified
everything Two Ten aims to accomplish.
At one of the foundation’s events, a man
approached Newman with a powerful
tale of personal hardships — job loss, sick
spouse and, at times, alcoholism. The
man said Two Ten helped in a big way
with three months of rent money and by
providing counseling resources.
“He said to me, ‘Your group saved my
life. I put my life back together,’” Newman recalled. “I’m humbled, and it’s a
memory I’ll take to my grave.”
Currently under Newman’s leadership,
Two Ten is celebrating 75 years of charitable work, raising over $3 million annually.
And plans call for even greater growth.
“We want to align and reshape our
services and scholarships programs to best
suit where the domestic workforce is,”
said Newman, who joined the foundation
in January 2012 after longtime president
Peggy Kim Meill stepped down. “The
second goal is in the community space,
the Women in the Footwear Industry
program, the Young Professionals, the HR
Leadership Group and Footwear Cares.”
MILESTONE
Q&A × TWO TEN @ 75
Newman is banking in particular on WIFI,
which was formed in 2008 and has more than
1,000 women participating.
“We are exploring the issue that 70 percent of
our calls are from women, so how do we connect that with WIFI? [The group] is in a place to
explode in a positive way,” he said.
More effort is also planned for the HR Leadership program, which hosts a yearly conference. In
2013, Zappos’ Tony Hsieh was the keynote speaker.
“The [industry] is looking at us to roll out a comprehensive outreach program — we see that it’s
not so much an event but a network. It’s critical we
put more energy and time into it,” Newman said.
That’s also part of a bigger strategy to bring
together the industry.
“We have a chance to shape corporate responsibility across an entire industry,” Newman said.
“Our goal that’s frightening everybody here in the
office: I want every single member of the footwear
fraternity to know Two Ten is here for them. We
want to touch 250,000 people all the time.”
Here, Newman speaks candidly about the joys
of lending a helping hand, challenges along the
way and why his leadership tactics are working.
How would you describe the Two Ten mission?
NN: The formal narrative is that Two Ten
strengthens and enriches the lives of shoe people.
I see this as if we are the guardians of a remarkable
tradition of caring in the corporate context. It’s
been a remarkable 75-year tradition of being together, coming together, supporting and caring for
our own workforce, and that’s pretty darn special.
What does 75 mean to you?
NN: We have a lot to celebrate in 75 years. We
also have an organization that has never been
stronger, and that’s something to celebrate. The
beauty is, there is no need to convince people in
the industry that caring is a good thing.
There were some strong leaders before you. How
does it feel to hold the mantle?
NN: I’m humbled and reminded every day of how
blessed I am to hold this position. The chance
I have to lead the organization assertively and
positively into the future is truly a blessing.
How do you differ from your predecessors?
NN: When I’m talking to people in the industry or going to a health benefits fair, whatever
it is, it’s face-to-face interactions that remind
me how important Two Ten is in the lives of
folks. There is an energy and dynamism that is
different today than before. I move a little differently and faster, and I think our communications are stronger. We are benefitting from
the hard work that [predecessors] Michael
[Appel] and Peggy did. We’re servicing more
people and raising more money.
What milestones are you proud of?
NN: I’m happy with what we’re doing for Footwear
Cares. We test-drove it two years ago, and it has
been a transformative moment for Two Ten. If we
had more people coordinating it, we could have
doubled the impact in the first year. [We’re also]
very pleased for a number of different reasons
with the launch of the Footwear Warriors scholarship fund, a new scholarship just for veterans who
are returning from service to a footwear job. We
were able to raise $300,000 with 28 different donors in 10 weeks. We’re going to be raising another
$60,000 for that scholarship.
Speaking of raised funds. How are you tracking?
NN: We’re now raising over $3 million per year.
Fundraising in the last three years has increased
What other challenges do you face?
NN: Running a national organization from one
location. We are truly a national organization,
and that is a challenge. It means we have to
travel a lot. A focus of ours is to have a massive
presence on the West Coast. We want to have
more events there, more of a presence and more
at-home events that will bring together footwear
folks who in some cases don’t know each other.
How did you raise money in the down years?
NN: There’s always this dilemma that people
in fundraising have, which is when times are
tough, do you stop fundraising? I’d argue the
opposite: When times are tough, you have to
speak to donors more often and let them know
exactly where you’re at. We’ve been able to grow
our fundraising 23 percent in that time frame.
The secret to our success was getting better at
talking about our impact. Donors want to be assured that the organization is run well.
The secret to our
success was getting
better at talking about
our impact.” — Neal Newman
Maureen Lederhos, Neal Newman,
Elba Marcillo, Kate Alley and Kate Kaplan
at an aggregate 23 percent. Call volume has
increased about 57 percent [in five years]. Even
though we’re doing well in terms of fundraising, we’re not keeping pace with the requests for
help. The last couple of years, we’re hearing a lot
about college debt. We don’t pay college debt, we
just do scholarships, but that might be one of the
things we need to look at in the future.
How have the “help” calls changed over the years?
NN: Seventy percent of the people who call us are
women. A very high percentage is single moms. We
need to be smart about what Two Ten services and
programs look like in the future. It’s very different
than it was in the ’40s and ’50s. And the complexity
of the calls is vastly different than what it was 50
or 60 years ago. Now, people aren’t only calling because they can’t pay a bill, they are calling because
there is an alcohol problem in the house or they
can’t afford to buy food. We are getting calls about
domestic violence every week. We have people
calling us routinely with a chronic health issue, and
because health care is getting better, what insurance companies are covering is being shrunk.
Over the years, who were some large donors?
NN: Certainly Steve and Wendy Madden with
their $1 million gift a couple of years ago. Steve
is on the board and Wendy will replace him, it’s
just a massive love fest going on with Steve and
Wendy. Bobby Campbell and Tim O’Donovan
have been extremely generous. From the corporate side, Wolverine, Brown, Nine West, BBC,
Clarks and New Balance. People will laugh at
this quote, but it’s not only about the money, it’s
our relationship with people. By changing the
calculus from “I’m asking you for money” to “I’m
asking you to get engaged with us,” that’s totally
transformed us over the last couple of years.
Why don’t other industries have a Two Ten?
NN: There is a sense that we’re in this together.
I’ve never heard an industry talk that way before.
It’s usually more competitive, and that’s where the
relationship begins and ends. Here, it’s, “I’m willing to share some secrets with you, but let’s collaborate.” We don’t have to manufacture people in
footwear to care — they want to come together.
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
| 19
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Annual Gala
Steve Madden donates
$1 million in 2012
PARTY
CITY
Two Ten is forging ahead with
a new format for its biggest
fundraiser of the year.
BY KRISTEN HENNING
A
man and CEO of Wolverine World Wide Inc.
s Two Ten celebrates turning 75
this year, its famed gala is getting a before retiring in 2009. “I’ve known Bob
[Campbell] for over 25 years, and I’ve always
new look.
had great admiration for him. It’s special when
On Dec. 2, the foundation’s anthe award is named after him.”
nual dinner will consist of two events, instead
O’Donovan also commented on some of the
of its past format made up of cocktails, dinner
gala’s biggest changes over the years since the
and an awards ceremony. The event, hosted
first banquet in 1940.
at the Marriot Marquis Times Square in New
“One of the major enhancements was movYork, starts with a fundraising dinner for 300.
ing the dinner from Boston to New York,”
That will be followed by a much larger
he said. “They are getting a much younger
industry soiree.
audience at that dinner, and
“There is broad agreethat has made it more excitment that this is the social
ing. It’s one of the most fun
event of the year for the
things in the industry, to
industry,” Two Ten Presimeet your peers.”
dent Neal Newman said.
Looking ahead, Hicks
“We want it to be a party,
2013:
said he is leaving a solid
for people to enjoy themfoundation for the next
selves and see this as a
Chair: Tim Belk, CEO, Belk Inc.
dinner chair.
celebration.”
“They can build on the
Ken Hicks, who recently
2012:
new format; the key is for
stepped down as Foot
Chair: Steve Madden
more people to understand
Locker CEO, will serve as
what Two Ten can do,” he
chairman of the event.
2011:
said, adding that although
“With the new format,
Chair: Wes Card, former CEO,
his role in the industry will
we are trying something
change, he plans to stay indifferent, and we are able to
Jones Group Inc.
volved with the organization.
involve more people at the
Overall, Newman looks
event,” Hicks said. “Hopeforward to bringing the community together.
fully, we raise another record amount; we’re
“We want to express the generosity, the
still pushing and I think we will.”
compassion, the sense that you can compete
Also on the night’s agenda: Tim O’Donovan
during the day, but after hours there is still a
will be honored with the Bob Campbell Lifecamaraderie and sense that we are going to
time Achievement Award.
take care of our own,” Newman said. “That’s a
“I’ve been very fortunate in my footwear
shoe thing.”
career,” said O’Donovan, who served as chair-
Blake Krueger and Diane Sullivan
Raising the Revenue Bar
$2.3 million
$2.1 million
A predinner cocktail setting
20 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
2011 annual dinner
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN
$2 million
CONGRATULATIONS
TO TIM O’DONOVAN
ON RECEIVING
TWO TEN FOOTWEAR
FOUNDATION’S
ROBERT B. CAMPBELL
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
AWARD.
At Wolverine Worldwide, we are proud to
recognize and help honor Tim for his tireless
dedication to Two Ten and his devotion to
helping others in the footwear industry.
MILESTONE
FEMALE POWER
WIFI is making moves to keep momentum going — participation is up and
the number of chapters will expand. BY ERIN E. CLACK
I
n an industry whose executive
ranks are largely dominated by
men, Two Ten Footwear Foundation has sparked a growing
women’s movement.
Through its Women in Footwear
Industry group, launched in 2008,
female professionals from across
the shoe business are coming
together to share ideas and inspiration. Spearheaded by founding
co-chairs Diane Sullivan, chairman, president and CEO of Brown
Shoe Co., and Carol Baiocchi, SVP
and DMM of footwear for Kohl’s
Corp., WIFI’s mission is to educate
and nurture the next generation of
women leaders through conferences, networking and mentorships.
“WIFI came out of the awareness
that though our industry is large
and vast, we weren’t representing
the full diversity of it. There was a
clear need to be more inclusive and
tap into the power of the women
in our industry,” said Baiocchi,
recalling the group’s first meeting
six years ago. “From that moment,
you just knew this was going to be
something important and powerful.
Women were opening their voices
and creating this amazing dialogue.”
“Finding the Silver Lining”
Boston event
22 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
WIFI meeting in 2009
Sullivan, who in May
stepped down as WIFI’s
co-chair and was succeeded
by fellow Brown Shoe exec
Libby Edelman, agreed.
“We’ve been able to meet a
real need, the size and scale
of which we didn’t even
understand when we first
started,” she said, noting that
National summit in June
in shaping the organization,
she and Baiocchi were motivated by the remembrance
of challenges they faced as
women coming up in the
business some 20 years ago.
“I was working while raising
young kids, which wasn’t
typical at the time. So it
would have been terrific to have this al summit during either FN Platform
or FFANY. All told, the group’s events
opportunity to connect with other
draw as many as 1,000 women.
women going through the same
“Participation is growing every
experiences.”
year, and we continue to field reSince its launch, WIFI has grown
quests for new chapters,” said Tanya
to eight local chapters in cities
Allain, manager of special events
including New York, Los Angeles,
and programs at Two Ten.
Boston, St. Louis and Las Vegas. The
A core part of WIFI’s programs is
chapters, which typically host two
education through guest speakers,
events yearly, are led by executives
panel discussions and workshops.
from companies such as Keds, BBC
International and Zappos.com. In ad- Topics range from woman-specific
issues to more general industry condition, WIFI holds an annual nationcerns. For example, this year’s national summit, held in June in New
York, featured a discussion on social
media with Libby Edelman; designer
Rebecca Minkoff; Alison Koplar
Wyatt of Refinery29; and Danielle
and Jodie Snyder of Dannijo.
Networking is another important
aspect of the events. “We’ve heard
so many stories of women meeting
future business partners or lifelong
friends through WIFI. Knowing
they have the support there helps
women stay and succeed in the
industry,” Allain noted.
Baiocchi said this fellowship
among women facing the same challenges is even more critical in today’s
fast-moving business. “The industry today is very different from the
industry I grew up in — the dynamics
are ever-evolving, and there has been
tremendous consolidation. So the
need is even greater for opportunities to learn and grow and connect.”
WIFI also coordinates a mentoring program that pairs seasoned
industry professionals with women
just starting out in their careers.
Over the yearlong relationship,
mentors advise protégés as they
work toward specific career goals.
In February, WIFI will award its
first scholarship under the program.
Sponsored by Foot Petals and open
to both current and past mentees,
the $1,000 scholarship will fund
classes and other professional development venues.
As WIFI looks to the future, Edelman said she is excited to partner
with Baiocchi in taking the group to
the next level. One of her big goals
is to bring in people and points of
view from outside the shoe industry. “Great ideas can come from any
industry. It would be inspiring to
hear from other women outside our
business,” she said.
Edelman also plans to focus on
expanding WIFI’s network of chapters, which she believes are key to
growing participation. “Our national
summits are fantastic, but it’s hard to
do as much as we’d like around these
events in New York and Las Vegas
because we all get caught up in our
own shoe-show business,” she noted.
“The local chapters can hold events
during the off times, and gatherings
don’t have to be rushed.”
Sullivan, who plans to remain
closely involved with WIFI, said
she is proud of what the group has
achieved under her watch. “Women
are engaging and sharing with one
another and bringing their points of
view to the forefront,” she said.
Added Baiocchi, “If you look
around, there are more women
serving at high levels. You can see
that movement. There is an awareness today that didn’t exist before.”
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN
TWO TEN @ 75 × WIFI
ECCO CONGRATULATES TWO TEN ON 75 PROUD YEARS
OF SHOEPEOPLE HELPING SHOEPEOPLE
eccousa.com
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Firsthand Accounts
HOUSE CALLS
SURVIVING SANDY: Mickey Yanes, now 54, lost his Seabridge, N.J., home to
Hurricane Sandy in 2012. The sales executive for Wolverine World Wide and his
son (aged 7 at the time) had sought refuge from the storm with friends; when
24 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
they returned to town, the ranch-style home was in ruins and ultimately had
to be demolished. Yanes did what he could to cope. “I got into a cruise-control
mindset, ‘Alright, everything out.’ I didn’t want it to get the best of me,” he said.
PHOTOS: FAMILY MATTERS: COURTESY OF CHRISTINE CRUZ; SURVIVING SANDY: COURTESY OF MICKEY YANES
Two families, two stories. Impacted by natural disasters,
Two Ten stepped in to help rebuild. BY IRENE PARK
MILESTONE
Firsthand Accounts × TWO TEN @ 75
The Federal Emergency
Management Agency
was first on Yanes’ call
list to get whatever
assistance he could. But
no aid came. “Where’s all
that money that people
were donating going to?
I don’t know. We didn’t
get anything,” Yanes
said. Then he called Two
Ten. The foundation
quickly contributed
$2,000, which he used
for clothing for his family.
“It was like an emotional
hug,” he said. The family
now lives in their new —
and elevated — home.
FAMILY MATTERS: One
early morning in June of
2013, Christine Cruz, 27 at
the time, awoke to the
stench of smoke and the
wailing of fire truck sirens.
She discovered it was the
result of a three-alarm
fire in an apartment two
floors above. Though the
fire didn’t reach her home,
extensive water damage
would displace her family
for seven months. “I could
literally swim in my room,”
Cruz said.
Cruz contacted Two Ten on the recommendation of her coworker at Eastman Footwear Group,
the CFO’s assistant. The foundation promptly provided a $500 initial check for food and
clothing, then another later for first month’s rent toward her new home. “Think of big disasters:
You get intimidated trying to go to a big organization like Red Cross,” she said. “Knowing that
Two Ten works specifically at helping people within the industry is more comforting.”
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Director Sound Off
BOARD CERTIFIED
BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
BLAKE KRUEGER
Chairman, president, CEO, Wolverine World Wide Inc.
“Two Ten’s the Switzerland of the industry. It’s a place leaders
can get together and forget about the competitive nature of the
business. They work together for a higher cause. Neal Newman
and his team have brought a fresh perspective and commitment
to the organization and the
industry. They’ve expanded the
reach of WIFI and YP [as well
as] the numbers of individuals
and scholars being served.
Around four years ago, I led
the strategic planning process
focused on Two Ten’s plans for
the next five years. It set forth a
new road map and future goals
that includes expanded relief
efforts for [those in need].”
DIANE SULLIVAN
Chairman, president, CEO,
Brown Shoe Co.
“I’ve been involved with Two Ten for
15 years, hosting the [annual] dinner
and [participating in]
WIFI. Brown
Shoe has also
been very supportive of Two
Ten. We feel it’s
our responsibility to not
only help our
company, but
26 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
also help our industry. Everyone’s
had challenges in their life coming
when you least expect it. It’s fantastic there’s an organization that helps
people when they don’t have another place to go. The scholarships are
a wonderful aspect as well. Credit
[for this work] goes to the amazing
Two Ten team, whether it was Peggy
Meill, who brought a great emotional connection between Two Ten
and the industry, or Neal Newman
and his team, who are [moving to]
grow WIFI and YP. It’s important to
continue to increase the awareness
of what Two Ten does and increase
industry involvement.”
STEVE HILL
VP of merchandising,
Zappos.com
“I’ve been a member of Two Ten
for 10 years and on the board
three. Sonny Shar, who’s been a
mentor and
instrumental in
my career, is a
big part of the
reason I got involved. [Seeing]
how passionate
he is about Two
Ten, I thought it
was something I
needed to be involved in. [Living]
on the West Coast, I’ve tried to
help extend the awareness of Two
Ten here. I’ve been on the [organization’s] dinner committee for
the last few years and also worked
on Zappos’ Halloween charity
golf tournament, held [annually]
to raise money for Two Ten. Neal
Newman’s great leadership is now
taking it into the future.”
DANNY SCHWARTZ
CEO, Schwartz &
Benjamin
“Being involved
in Two Ten has
been a way to give
back to an industry that’s been
very good to me
and my family. It
has helped those
who’ve come
across hard times,
from Hurricane
Sandy to personal tragedies.
Several years ago, I was chairing
the solicitations committee. I was
proud of the amount of monies we
raised. Over the last few years, I’ve
been involved in running the operations committee for the [annual]
dinner. A few years ago, Two Ten
honored me with the A.A. Bloom
award. [Today], Neal Newman and
his team are taking Two Ten to
another level. There’s lots of room
to grow. However, you can’t grow
the number of people you help if
you don’t have the money.”
CHRIS QUINN
EVP North America,
New Balance
“Two Ten’s a group of companies
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
Two Ten board members share candid thoughts on years of service.
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Director Sound Off
WENDY MADDEN
Director of operations, Steven Madden Ltd.
“When Steve and I chaired the dinner
committee, we chose a Beatles theme of
‘Come Together.’ After the cocktail party,
we segued to the dinner with dancers
performing to the song. It exemplifies what
Two Ten’s all about. While we can compete
fiercely in the marketplace, we can also come
together to support shoe people in need. I’ve
seen the impact Two Ten’s causes have had
on associates at Steve Madden. It’s provided
counseling services, financial assistance,
scholarship money, smiles on so many faces,
and put hearts at ease. As part of the auction committee, it was a
thrill to experience the record-setting fundraising that took place.
Once, I bid on a vacation home without knowing my competition
was a longtime business associate and friend.”
28 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
ANNA BAKST
Group president of
footwear and accessories,
Michael Kors
“I feel camaraderie with [Two
Ten members].
You’re coming
together with
your peers, not
about business,
but to give back
to this wonderful community.
When people
are in need, we can do something
quickly. Footwear Cares is also a
way for [members] to support each
other. The [Michael Kors] team had
a great opportunity to participate
in the ‘God’s Love We Deliver’ food
program. Here, everybody wins —
those that benefit from the organization and the team participating.
I’m also involved with WIFI, where
we can engage up-and-coming
professionals within the industry,
as well as establish the mentoring
program.”
DANNY MUSKAT
National sales manager,
Deer Stags/No Sox
“I’m new to the board and proud to
be made chair of the YP committee.
As chairman, I hope to help broaden
Two Ten’s reach on the West Coast
and [connect with] emerging leaders
in the business. [Closer to home],
Deer Stags held a
small Two Ten potluck lunch earlier
this year, where
contributions were
made by attendees. We invited
our employees to
contribute a small
amount. Over half
the company participated. One employee suggested
an additional contribution of some
change when [having a beverage] provided free-of-charge by Deer Stags.
The initiatives, coupled with a match
from Deer Stags’ management, will
total over $4,000 for the year.”
SUSAN ITZKOWITZ
President, Marc Fisher
Footwear
KATIE BUTLER
“I’m a member of the social services
committee that ferrets through
requests from people [in need].
It’s heartbreaking, but at the same
time, we have the ability to help.
We not only help them, but we give
them hope. So many people come
back and say, ‘When I’m back on my
feet, I’m going to help others.’ In
an emergency, people think of the
Red Cross or
government.
Two Ten’s an
organization
many people
don’t know
about. There
are always
opportunities
to help more
people through
“This year, Joe
Ouaknine and
I are on the
solicitations
committee for
the December
dinner and
gala, the main
fundraiser for
the year. Being
a part of WIFI
has also been fun; I’ve [even] had the
chance to speak at one of the [events].
Both WIFI and YP are important
programs that are in their infancy. We
hope through outreach and marketing, they’ll expand nationally. Reaching out to [industry members] in Los
Angeles is [also important]. Next:
How do we engage [footwear] people
all over the globe?”
Longtime industry executive
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
that normally would be competing, but [are working together]
in their love and commitment to
serve others. An important initiative has been the Footwear Warriors Scholarship Fund, where we
try to help those who’ve dedicated
their lives to
our country. We’ve rallied to
identify how
we can develop
and more effectively source
new funds to
help [veterans].
I’ve also worked
on a five-year
strategy plan
with Blake
Krueger. We all came in from various parts of the country and created a strategic plan [regarding]
where we wanted to take Two Ten.
An [important initiative] is helping people in the industry outside
the U.S. We’ve made progress, but
can make even more in serving
the global footwear community.”
scholarship and mentoring programs. Through board meetings
and retreats, I’ve met some incredible executives. I’ve always been
impressed by their passion, intelligence and dedication.”
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MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Data Bank
HELPING HANDS
30 |
2012
2013
2014*
$1.8 million to 1,737 families
$1.5 million to 1,177 families
$1.6 million to 1,200 families
$717,000 to 417 scholarship recipients
$750,000 to 322 scholarship recipients
$800,000 to 346 scholarship recipients
Housing: 912 evictions prevented
Housing: 783 evictions prevented
Housing: 778 evictions prevented
Car repair: 249 awards for emergency
loan assistance and repair
Car repair: 276 awards for emergency
loan assistance and repair
Car repair: 282 awards for emergency
loan assistance and repair
Utilities: 664 emergency utility payments
Utilities: 559 emergency utility payments
Utilities: 570 emergency utility payments
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
*PROJECTED FIGURES. PHOTO: COURTESY OF TWO TEN
A breakdown of Two Ten’s assistance to the industry, by the numbers.
Thank you for all you do!
A Special Congratulations to
Tim O’Donovan
for receiving the Bob Campbell Humanitarian Award
FFANY December 3rd-5th
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MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Scholarships
Shoe School design
class in Brighton, Mass.
Ars Sutoria
fall class
Two Ten is aiming high, with a hefty focus on providing a variety of
scholarships for footwear’s youth. BY MARGARET SUTHERLIN
K
ate Swanson always knew she’d have
to find funding for her college education. But when Swanson’s father lost
his job in a series of layoffs, the need
became much more pressing than
she initially anticipated.
Enter Two Ten, which awarded Swanson the aid
she needed.
“[The foundation] has been an absolutely huge
help for my family and me,” said Swanson, now a
senior at Northeastern University who will graduate in December. “My brother was in school, too,
so college was a big challenge for my parents.
It’s so much easier knowing that I’m financially
secure. It’s taken the stress of money off of me.”
Two Ten’s offerings go far beyond need-based
academic scholarships. From design grants to veterans’ aid, the organization has focused on finding
new avenues to support young people as well as
continuing education in the shoe business.
More than 300 people in the shoe industry
receive some form of aid from Two Ten annually.
Scholarships are available for students who have
been in the shoe industry — or whose parents have
been — for at least two years.
“It’s important that we’re helping people on a
variety of fronts,” said Beverly Goldberg, VP at
Florsheim and a member of the Two Ten scholarship committee. “If we want the best talent in the
32 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
industry, that means supporting education [and
shoe-design programs]. The scholarship committee supports academic and training scholarships
because both are important.”
Two Ten introduced its first design award
in 2003. Five years later, the Ars Sutoria scholarship — which allows students to participate in
a specialized shoe-manufacturing and design
course — followed.
On the executive side, Two Ten has teamed
up with companies from Pensole to Boardroom
Rockstars to help provide ongoing education to
members of the industry.
Youth Vote
Career development has become an increasingly
important focus for Two Ten in the past several
years.
The Young Professionals group was established
in 2009. It sponsors a variety of events each year,
from fireside chats with industry experts to festive,
casual parties. Now the group boasts about 1,000
members.
“YP210 was established as a powerful way to
connect emerging leaders in the industry,” said
Danny Muskat, national sales manager of Deer
Stags and a Two Ten board member who leads the
YP210 program.
In the coming years, Muskat said, the YP branch
will do more to help Two Ten expand its influence.
The group wants to promote small-donor giving,
develop small-business support, and tap into microfinance opportunities. YP210 also aims to grow
nationally, with regional chapters on the West Coast
and across the country.
“We want YP to work toward becoming a group
that is self-sustaining,” Muskat said. “We want to
[build] the same momentum that other branches of
Two Ten have, such as Women in Footwear.”
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN
PAY IT
FORWARD
Footwear Warriors, launched in 2013, has
been one of the organization’s biggest initiatives.
Spearheaded by Kevin Donahue, chairman and
CEO of Quabaug Corp., the fund aims to support
veterans. The $250,000 initial endowment was
one of the largest ever for Two Ten.
Earlier this month, Two Ten kicked off the
Footwear Warriors Phase II Campaign, a threemonth fundraising effort in support of the
Footwear Warriors program. The goal is to raise
$60,000 by Feb. 28, which would bring the scholarship fund’s total to $360,000.
“There are so many worthy causes to support,
but it can become overwhelming,” said Martin Berman, managing director of Micro-Pak Ltd. “Even
‘scholarships’ can be a somewhat overwhelming
topic. By focusing on veterans or specific areas of
the industry, donors can easily connect with causes
and may be more willing to give.”
Moving forward, the organization hopes
to increase donations from companies in the
industry. Goldberg said Two Ten is also focusing
on getting the word out about its programs more
regularly and with a more concentrated effort.
“Scholarships are tremendously important,”
Berman said. “For some students, these scholarships mean the difference between attending or not
attending college. For others, it means being able to
graduate with a manageable amount of debt.”
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Footwear Cares
13 restoration projects
FACTS
Footwear Cares
is on the move.
The annual
monthlong
April initiative,
which works
with the industry
to support a
broad range of
charities, has
the numbers to
show for it. Here,
a look at the
program’s reach.
The Vans team
working hard
20 environmental
2.
projects tackled, including cleanup
and landscaping along coastlines, highways and public parks
3. Number of states participating in Footwear Cares activities:
83 charitable nonprofits served by Footwear Cares
5. Footwear companies that supported the cause: 100
6. 474 “selfies” posted to the #footwearcares tag board on Two
4.
Ten’s website (during the month of April)
1,242 children provided with clothing
8. Comfort kits assembled for active military families: 1,480
9. 3,200 pounds of frozen
peas packaged by sponsor Amazon Fashion
7.
Amazon Fashion
for families in Washington state
10.
4,170 shoelaces used to secure volunteer T-shirts
11. Footwear Cares T-shirts ordered: 4,170
12. 6,500 volunteers contributed time
13. 11,300 pairs of shoes distributed
Industry
members pitch in
to children
14. Total hours of volunteer work:
BY CHRISTIAN ALLAIRE
15.
34 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
22
15,000
517,549 meals sorted, packed, prepared and/or served
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN
15
1.
performed, including painting and cleaning
classrooms, building homes and repairing
playground equipment
75
Y E A R S
FOR OVER 75 YEARS
To our friends at the Two Ten Foundation,
thank you for 75 years of helping our local
communities and the footwear industry.
Here’s to Shoepeople Helping Shoepeople.
Proud makers of the New Balance 990.
In 2013, 1 out of every 4 pairs of shoes we sold in the USA
was made or assembled in American factories, by American
workers. We’re proud to be the only major company making
athletic footwear in the USA. Where domestic value is at
least 70% we label our shoes Made in the USA.
com/USA
©2014 New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc.
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Employee Feedback
STAFF SECRETS
Two Ten insiders share emotional anecdotes and why
their work is meaningful. BY IRENE PARK
SUZANNE MURRAY
Development Manager
“When you leave at night, instead of working at a place for
profit where you’ve made profit
or done something for yourself,
you leave the doors of Two Ten
TANYA ROBINSON
“We give people an easy way to help
out their coworkers. Sometimes
we’ll hear from people, ‘[A colleague] was diagnosed with cancer,
what can I do to help her?’ It’s not a
situation where you can often give
directly to somebody you know is
having a hard time, but you can give
to us, and we can help them. It’s
something people can’t always find.”
Intake Specialist
“When I hear that sigh or sob of
relief, that affects me the most
because I know that we made a difference. It means that was a job well
done, not only for that person, but
for the entire family.”
KELLI-BETH VECCHIONE
Development Manager
ERNESTO TEIXEIRA
Accounting Associate
“One day, I was joining my colleagues for lunch and jumped
into the elevator. As the door
closed, the elevator speaker
system started ringing. At that
time, we’d been experiencing
some technical issues where the
elevator just randomly rang and
then stopped. On the other line, I
heard somebody say, ‘Hello?’ So
my instincts kicked in immediately to respond with ‘Thank you
for calling Two Ten.’ This gentleman proceeded to tell me he was
calling me to apply for a scholarship. I had to explain to him that
somehow he called the elevator
of our building. I gave him my
direct number, and I ran back
downstairs to my desk. I helped
him start his application, and he
got the scholarship.”
“I get to show people what their gift
does directly. It’s getting to show
that every gift to Two Ten makes
a difference, whether you’re an
individual giving $2.10 or you’re a
company giving $100,000. It’s making a real impact, and I like to be
able to share those stories.”
JOHN MEISENBACH
Intake Specialist
“We’re a unifier in the footwear
industry in that we bring the footwear industry together as a whole,
even though [certain brands]
might be your sworn enemy. We
get people from Aldo and then
people from Converse all together
in the same room doing something
good for everybody. It’s a cool
thing.”
PHOTOS: ADAM DETOUR
MARY HEHIR
Assistant to President
knowing you’ve done something
for someone else. It’s a rewarding life-giving experience every
day. We are kind of insular where
we work in Waltham; there are 15
of us making the wheels turn. I’ll
never forget my first annual dinner. I went up on the balcony to
get a full view of [the dining floor].
Everyone was there in support of
Two Ten. There were 1,200 people
there. That’s when I realized, this
was the [result] of the foundation.
I was very proud to be a part
of that.”
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Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2014 Dansko, LLC.1.800.326.7564.
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × History
TIME TRAVEL
FN takes a look back at the biggest milestones in Two Ten’s 75-year history.
1949
The T. Kenyon Holly
Award is established,
named for the late
president of Two Ten.
1950
The Regional Chairmen group — a variety of
shoe-industry members who serve on a relief
committee — is formed by Two Ten’s board of
directors.
1964
Two Ten marks 25 years of industry service.
1969
Two Ten’s first
golf tournament,
in 1939
Two Ten Associates is launched at
210 Lincoln St. in Boston. Founding members include A.A. Bloom, Abe Borkowitz,
Morris Rosenston and Al Schachat.
1939
Imperial Ballroom in Boston. Tickets sell
for $5.
1944
Two Ten begins to support U.S. troops,
providing donations to servicemen at the
Boston Port.
The foundation hosts its first golf
tournament, at the Kernwood Country Club
in Salem, Mass.
1945
1940
1948
First annual “Banquet and Entertainment”
event is held at the Hotel Statler
Fred Bloom joins Two Ten; his career with the
foundation will span over 40 years.
Two Ten goes national.
1975
Two Ten
transitions from
Two Ten Associates into the Two Ten
National Foundation Inc.
1975
38 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
The 36th annual Two Ten Banquet is held in
Chicago, featuring headliners Ella Fitzgerald
and comedian Jack Carter.
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN ARCHIVES
1939
The National
Scholarship
Program is
launched. In its
first year, 20
scholarships
totaling $13,500
are awarded
to high school
students.
To t a l
MOTION
i n s t a n t C O M F O R T.
R O C K P O R T. C O M © 2 0 1 5 T H E R O C K P O R T C O M P A N Y, L L C . R O C K P O R T ®
Glove like fit. Controlled flexiblity.
T h a n k Yo u
TWO TEN
for HELPING SHOE PEOPLE for 75 years.
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × History
In 1989, the
World Shoe
traveled across
the country,
donating shoes
gives away about 10,000 pairs of shoes.
1991
A support network is activated for servicemen stationed in the Persian Gulf for Operation Desert Storm.
1999
Two Ten relocates to its
current headquarters in
Waltham, Mass.
2001
Peggy Kim Meill takes over as
president.
Peggy Kim
Meill with Jim
Salzano
2008
1989
1980
Two Ten marks 50 years of industry service.
Comedian Bill Cosby headlines Two Ten’s
annual banquet, this time at the
Fairmont Hotel in Dallas.
1989
1981
The first $1 million endowment campaign
is completed.
1982
Fred Bloom
Michael Appel takes over as president.
1986
The foundation moves to new headquarters
in Watertown, Mass. Kitty Dukakis, wife of
Governor Michael Dukakis, is on hand for the
ribbon-cutting.
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
The Young Leadership Seminar
becomes Young
Professionals for
Two Ten (YP210).
2012
1985
40 |
2009
Neal Newman becomes president.
2014
Two Ten celebrates 75 years.
Zappos
founder Tony
Hsieh at an
HR Leadership
event
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TWO TEN ARCHIVES
The first Young
Leadership Seminar
is offered in Massachusetts. (Twentyseven years later, it
will become Young
Professional for
Two Ten.)
The World Shoe Campaign launches. The
traveling exhibit visits 12 major U.S. cities and
Women in the Footwear
Industry (WIFI), a
network for professional women,
is founded.
Congratulations
A
ON 75 YEARS OF
SHOEPEOPLE
HELPING
SHOEPEOPLE.
Surprise IN STORE
MILESTONE
TWO TEN @ 75 × Parting Shot
HANG
TEN
Big dinner parties. Small
group outings. Two Ten
has always been about
the schmoozing. Even
in a different era, the
foundation boosted its
membership by turning up
the charm, as evidenced
here at a local drive in 1960.
“Mad Men,” anyone?
PHOTO: COURTESY OF TWO TEN ARCHIVES
BY KRISTEN HENNING
42 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
CHILDREN’S FOOT WEAR AND ACCESSORIES
FFANY
DECEMBER 3 & 4
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FN FEATURES
TOP CONVERSATION STARTERS FOR THE NEW YEAR
Season’s
Highlights
“I need to do shoes for the future,”
declares Giuseppe Zanotti on his
singular style, emboldened here by
this pop-art crystal bootie. “To be
modern, I look around me. I cannot
create anything someone has
designed before.” FN handpicks a
selection of riveting showstoppers
for spring ’15 and hears from the
famous players themselves.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
| 45
SHOW OFFS
Spring ’15’s outré footwear
defies categorization and
encourages dialogue.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE
No21 leather
and satin
twist-tie mules
There was
the will to
emphasize
a ‘couture
mood’ with big
embellished
mules to
magnify the
surreal.”
— No21’s Alessandro
Dell’Acqua
46 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
VERSACE
perforated
lucite platform
boot (left) and
ALEXANDER
McQUEEN
open-wedge
gladiator
I was recently in Tulum,
[Mexico], and created this
ikat print to remind me of
that wonderful place.”
— Brian Atwood
MANOLO BLAHNIK embroidered stiletto
(left) and BRIAN ATWOOD heel
ROCHAS paillette
cap-toe slingback
FENDI feather-back
footbed sandal
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
| 47
Fashion Editor: Mosha Lundström Halbert
Assistant Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire
From top: SOPHIA WEBSTER
bead stiletto, ALEXANDER
WANG woven heel, PAUL
ANDREW tasseled slingback
DONNA KARAN polished
wood mule (left) and
CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA
Western-motif wedge
I was inspired
by my yearly
sojourn to the
Greek island
of Patmos;
the beauty of
the Aegean,
the flowering
hibiscus.”
— Paul Andrew
I love collage graphics
inspired by Japanese poster
art of the ’60s and ’70s.”
— Nicholas Kirkwood
CALVIN KLEIN
COLLECTION patent
and lucite platform
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD platform wedge
48 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
Call for an appointment to preview our New Fashion Slipper Collection
Market Week December 2 - 5
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141 West 36th Street 22nd Floor New York, NY 10018 • 800-969-9016
MARKETPLACE
WOMEN’S × MEN’S × COMFORT × CHILDREN’S × BUZZ
What’s
Inside?
PHOTO: ANDREA DELBÒ
Giuseppe Santoni welcomed Footwear
News to take a peek into his world and
find out the secrets behind his family’s
Italian luxury brand.
NOVEMBER 24, 2014 |
| 51
MARKETPLACE
WOMEN’S × A Day in the Life
Luxury Origins
G
iuseppe Santoni has been steeped in shoes ever since his parents founded the family brand in
1975 from their garage in Corridonia, Italy. “The factory was my playground,” he remembered. A
baptism by fire followed, with Santoni joining the business at 19 and being named CEO in 1990, at
the tender age of 21. “It certainly made me grow up faster,” said the executive, 46, who still holds that position. Today, Santoni is focused on expanding outside Europe and attracting new customers. A U.S. flagship
opened in October on New York’s Madison Avenue, and the growing women’s collection, which launched
in 2005, now accounts for 30 percent of the business. Footwear News tagged along with this discerningyet-discreet leader for a busy Saturday during Milan’s fashion week. By Mosha Lundström Halbert
2:15PM
12PM
Giuseppe’s next mission is to take his teenage
children shopping. “They always need something,
especially my daughter,” he says of 14-year-old
Sofia, who, along with 16-year-old brother Gabrio,
visits on the weekends from boarding school in
Switzerland. Their headmaster recently asked for
Santoni to provide uniform shoes.
1:30PM
Santoni and I meet at the showroom on
Via Monte Napoleone for a look at the new
collection. Handsome men’s shoes are the
brand’s strength, so Santoni’s design team
wisely weaves in gentlemanly touches — kilties, monk straps, patina finishes — into the
women’s offering. The effect is dashing. And it
must be said: The handmade quality is a huge
source of pride for Giuseppe. “We built a school
[at our factory] to teach the next generation.
It’s important to me to [help] new people
to learn the craft. It’s how we will keep our
[reputation].”
2PM
Coffee break. Thankfully, Caffé Cova, a
Milanese institution since 1817, is nearby, and
Giuseppe comes here often for espresso.
“Italian coffee is short. It’s like, boom — a quick
break,” he says.
52 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
2:30PM
Santoni stores smell intoxicatingly good. “It’s a
custom scent made by a special nose that I worked
with. I’m crazy for perfume,” Giuseppe explains.
He visits the store regularly to get feedback and
tweak the merchandising. Today, he gives notes on
the window display and instructs one associate to
polish his own shoes to a Santoni-level sheen.
3PM
Outside the store, Giuseppe bumps into his
wife and daughter, who are still out shopping.
His wife, Alessia, works on the administration
and finance side of the business. So do his
children hear the siren call of the business?
“Both of them have very good instincts for
design,” Giuseppe shares. “In our house, we
always talk about the philosophy behind
luxury. It’s in our blood.”
3:30PM
We arrive for a late lunch at the Hotel Bulgari’s
hopping outdoor restaurant. “I’m friends with
the owner, so I like to come here a lot and sit
outside,” Giuseppe says. Not surprising, he
bumps into several other pals on the way to
our table. “Everyone knows everybody here,” he
says. “Milano is really a small town. It’s friendly,
easygoing and open. The quality of life we get
in Italy is very hard to find anywhere else.”
4:30PM
Giuseppe is off to another meeting, this time with
the Mercedes team. “We have to talk about their
new car, the GT, as we are creating a special style
for it — sports shoes, but very elegant,” he says.
PHOTOS: ANDREA DELBÒ
8:30AM
“I didn’t get up early because last night we went
out quite late with friends,” admits Santoni, who
celebrated the showing of his brand’s spring ’15
women’s collection with dinner at La Risacca 6
and drinks at Hotel Bulgari. After breakfast, Santoni pops in to see his tailor. “It’s relaxing for me
to visit him and talk about my fall wardrobe,” he
says. Today, he wears a bespoke blue suit lined in
signature Santoni pumpkin orange, finished with
matching crocodile loafers.
On the walk to his flagship store, also on Via
Monte Napoleone, Giuseppe tries to take a work
call, but is drowned out by the roar of a Ferrari.
“Too flashy for me,” says the elegant designer,
who prefers to drive a tricked-out Mercedes. “It’s
a powerful vehicle that appears to be an old-man
car, but it’s much faster and discreet,” he explains.
MARKETPLACE
WOMEN’S × Trend
Trim & Her
Who says guys have all the fun? Women’s brands are
adding kiltie details to spring ’15 sandals and laceups, as
a feminine spin on traditional fringe.
Red slide with aubergine
strap and block heel
from CHARLINE
DE LUCA
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
CASADEI’s wooden
platform sandal
with chain details
MARKETPLACE
Trend × WOMEN’S
Classic slip-on flat in
a deep navy hue by
RUPERT SANDERSON
THE OFFICE OF
ANGELA SCOTT’s
lace-up brogue with
banana-yellow trim
OSCAR DE LA RENTA’s
multihued Amber oxford
with metallic touches
Tamaris USA INC. · Mr. Jan Brinkmann · 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando
FL 32814 · office (407) 514 2734 · jan.brinkmann@tamaris.us · theschuh.com
Gladiator-inspired
sandal by FREDA
SALVADOR
THE SCHUH! COMING TO THE US SOON.
MARKETPLACE
WOMEN’S × 5 Questions
A Toms bag for
spring ’15
Blake Afire
The founder of Toms is showing no signs of slowing down, with new
categories and a retail expansion in the works. BY KRISTEN HENNING
I
56 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
How do you handle competitors and
copycats?
BM: We focus on our own mission. The
footwear industry is historically known for
knocking off, which is unfortunate. Legally, there
is nothing I can do about it, so we focus on our
business. Competitors will do what they do. It’s
just a fact of life.
2
The coffee venture seems like a big
departure from your fashion projects.
Could other non-fashion items be on the
horizon for Toms?
BM: Our focus is on what we can do to make an
impact on the world. We think about categories
in all the places [in need] where we give our
shoes. It helps us leverage relationships in the
countries where we work. We use this as the
cornerstone of our retail strategy, as we are in
all Whole Foods in America. It’s a $12 bag of
coffee, so the specialty item further elevates
our brand. It’s been a fun and disruptive thing
to do, but our core focus will still be shoes, bags
and eyewear. We have so much momentum in
footwear that we don’t want to take our eyes off
the prize.
3
What has changed since selling half of
Toms to Bain Capital?
BM: We just closed the deal [this month],
and they are really bringing an understanding
about our footwear customer. They have a lot of
experience and are helping us to be the best in
class. Bain helps us with a lot of resources, with
our distribution strategy, and they are helping in
the process of our CEO search, to grow as I continue to be the founder and chief visionary.
4
Blake Mycoskie
1
You’re vastly expanding Toms’ footwear
selection for spring ’15. Why now?
BM: We started globally, with one silhouette. [Back then], 100 percent of our business
was the Alpargatas; now, it’s 68 percent. We built
new franchises, like our wedge, which is selling
in top department stores. Women are buying
more fashion from Toms, so there are a lot of
growth opportunities going into spring ’15. The
men’s business is starting to take off — we’ve
always had about 10 percent to 12 percent men’s
product. Our brogue and lace-up category and
Will there be any adjustments to your
role moving forward?
BM: My role will stay the same. Also,
both Bain and I are creating funds to support
social entrepreneurship. Toms is donating half
of the [profits from the Bain sale], and we’re
in the process of deciding on a foundation to
contribute to.
5
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TOMS
t’s been a year of major change
for Blake Mycoskie.
His company sold a 50 percent stake to Bain Capital LLC
in a deal that officially closed
late last month. And Toms is
set to launch another one-for-one
model this spring, focused on bags.
Plus, Mycoskie continues to evolve
the brand’s shoe selection with new
categories, such as wedges and boots.
With all that on deck, it’s time for
a retail push, too. Two stores will
open by the end of the year — in
Portland, Ore., and Chicago — with
a third debuting in New York in
the first quarter of 2015. The shops
will offer the entire product range,
including shoes, eyewear, bags and a
Toms Roasting Co. café.
“The goal is to open three to four
more locations by the end of 2015,”
said the founder of the 8-year-old
firm. “We have more product, and
eyewear is great for
retail. Our strategy is to
focus on neighborhoods
and community spaces.”
The debut bag collection consists of duffels,
cross-body purses and
tablet cases, retailing for
A spring ’15
$28 to $228, and takes
bootie style
on the issue of infant
mortality in developing
countries. “With each bag we sell, we give away a
safe-birth kit [to expectant mothers],” Mycoskie
said. “We are saving lives by [building] a deeper
connection to our female customers.”
When asked about Toms’ next steps, the often
guarded Mycoskie remained enigmatic. “Bags is
our big launch for 2015, but maybe something [will
debut] for 2016,” he hinted. “I don’t know what it’s
going to be — and I’m not just saying that.”
Here, the brand leader does open up about
product evolution, the coffee business and why
he’s banking on Bain Capital.
chukka boot [allow]
us to see a lot of new
accounts. We are doing
a fashion sneaker. The
customer knows and expects all of these things from us, so we’re playing a little more into trends. And we are
really seeing volume.
MARKETPLACE
MEN’S × One to Watch
The Stockholm-based brand is growing its line of sleek unisex
sneakers with strategic retail placement. BY CHRISTIAN ALLAIRE
M
ax Schiller and Jonathan Hirschfeld had sion and offer an elevated
product at affordable
a dramatic start for their brand, Eytys.
“Our entire shipment was on a freight prices. “I would
never want us to
ship that broke in half and sank in the
be considered
Indian Ocean,” said Schiller. “But when we finally
a premium or
launched three or four months later, people had
luxury sneaker,” Schiller
been waiting for the shoes. It made us sell out
said.
almost immediately.”
The Mother style
Nevertheless, the founders
Since debuting in April 2013, Schiller and
have been very selective about their wholesale acHirschfeld — sole owners of the business, which
counts, focusing on markets in North America and
currently has no outside investment — have imAsia, though they sell in Europe as well.
pressively grown the Stockholm-based brand. For
Currently, Eytys is carried in influential concept
2014, Eytys (pronounced like “eighties”) estimates
stores such as Dover Street Market, LN-CC, United
that revenue will be 1.5 million to 2 million euros
($1.88 million to $2.5 million at current exchange), Arrows and Opening Ceremony, as well as a new
shop-in-shop in Our Legacy’s Göteborg, Sweden,
with 40 percent of sales coming from Japan.
location. For the spring ’15 season, the brand
Despite its widespread expansion, the brand
maintains a tight focus: It offers only two
unisex lace-up sneakers, retailing for $150
MAX SCHILLER &
to $300.
JONATHAN HIRSCHFELD
The high-top Odyssey and low-top
Mother are both produced in Vietnam and
Age: 29 (Schiller) and 30 (Hirschfeld)
Hometown: Stockholm
come in leather, suede or canvas. They
Most memorable trip: Hirschfeld: “Max
feature cork footbeds and the brand’s nowand I went to Tokyo in 2012. Tokyo, for
signature thick rubber sole, inspired by a
me, is like New York on acid. They do
vintage favorite.
everything different, but better. We
“I was always on eBay tracking down old
looked at each other and said, ‘We have
to take this energy and do something.’”
deck shoes,” Schiller said. “But whenever I
The flagship location: Schiller:
found pairs, you couldn’t wear them because
“It used to be a historical part of
the rubber was so dried out. So I decided to
Stockholm, but it was completely
make one.”
torn down in the 1960s. You could
Best friends Schiller and Hirschfeld are no
say it’s one of the most hated parts
of Stockholm because it now has
strangers to entrepreneurship. “We worked
architecture that was popular 50
with each other during high school, selling
years ago. But we like it — it’s a part
shirts with the school logo on it that Max
of Stockholm that’s not perfect.”
designed and I sold,” Hirschfeld said.
Humble beginnings: Hirschfeld:
After graduation, the two went their
“Our first showroom was in a hotel
room in Paris, where we also slept at
separate ways. Hirschfeld attended businight. We would just roll up the beds
ness school at the University of Stockholm
in the morning.”
and became an investment banker for
Art fixation: Schiller: “A few years
Crédit Agricole. Schiller worked his way up
ago, I went to the Dia:Beacon, a
at Acne Studios, eventually landing a job
museum in upstate New York. They
have a massive room there with
designing menswear.
paintings by Agnes Martin. I loved it
To create Eytys, the two tapped their difso much that I went to the paint shop
ferent skill sets — Max is the creative force,
and matched all of the colors from
while Jonathan handles business operaher art [for our flagship].”
tions — but they have a common goal: to
conceptualize millennials’ sneaker obses-
58 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
From left: Jonathan
Hirschfeld and Max Schiller
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRAND
Eytys Pops
will launch with Canadian high-fashion e-tailer
SSENSE. “It’s all about working with stores we
like,” Hirschfeld said. “They have to add something different to the market.”
Retailers said that they are attracted to the
brand’s minimalist aesthetic. “We picked up Eytys
at the start of this year, not long after the brand
launched,” said Damien Paul, head of menswear at
Matchesfashion.com. “There’s something about
the proportion that feels totally modern. The
simplicity of their design makes them
feel smarter than sportier styles, and
[the shoes] work as well with tailored
trousers as they do with jeans.”
In August, Eytys opened its first
flagship, in Stockholm. Designed
with cabinet maker Axel Wannberg,
the store offers a curated selection of
books, home accessories and merchandise from
other brands in addition to the Eytys footwear.
The flagship is located on a back street of Stockholm’s city center, an offbeat choice that mirrors
the brand’s nontraditional sales strategies.
“In Stockholm, we’re stocked in high-end stores
that have Lanvin and Balenciaga, but we’re also
stocked in a basement skate shop,” Hirschfeld said.
“I like that about us. We’ve said from the start that
we want to be inclusive, not exclusive.”
PARTNERS
WITH
purpose
MARKETPLACE
COMFORT × Good Taste
MEN’S HOCKEY TEAM
I’D LIKE A SPOT ON:
“Montreal Canadiens.
They’ve won so
many Stanley Cups.”
MOST COVETED TROPHY:
“My Olympic gold
medal. It’s so special to
represent your country.”
STAYING WARM ON
A COLD NIGHT:
“I have a heating
blanket I start before
I get into bed. That’s
heaven to me.”
When Canadian women’s hockey player Caroline
Ouellette isn’t scoring goals for the Montreal Stars,
she’s serving as brand ambassador for Pajar Canada
and promoting hockey among the country’s young
women. “I’m very passionate about coaching and
growing the game,” said Ouellette, who helped bring
home the gold for Canada in the 2014 Olympics. “The
opportunities I got through hockey have been incredible.” The crossover between athletes and fashion continues to escalate, so it’s no surprise that when Ouellette slips off her skates, she dresses up in a pair of low
— yet stylish — heels. “I’ve gotten more comfortable
walking in heels and now enjoy wearing them,” said
the 5-foot-11-inch Ouellette, who ranks Michael Kors
among her favorite shoe brands. However, on a recent
trek to the North Pole with True Patriot Love, Canada’s charity honoring the country’s veterans, she opted
to cozy up in a pair of Pajar boots. Here, a few more of
Ouellette’s choice items. By Barbara Schneider-Levy
60 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
LANGUAGE I DREAM IN:
I have no idea, since
my dreams are
mostly images.”
MY CELL PHONE USAGE:
“I like to text. I don’t enjoy getting
messages to call someone back.
I’m focused on the task at hand.”
BIGGEST SIBLING RIVALRY:
“My sister and I love to
cook. Sometimes we
challenge each other to
make a dish for family
gatherings.”
PHOTOS: PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF CAROLINE OUELLETTE; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
Caroline Ouellette
THE OUTDOOR RETAILER ISSUE
ISSUE DATE: 1/19/15
SPACE CLOSE: 1/8/15
.
R
R
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U
H
O
T
Y
R
U
E
F
K
A
E
T
G
A
S
S
ME
BONUS DISTRIBUTION: OUTDOOR RETAILER JANUARY 21–24
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT SANDI MINES, VP & PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.4872, OR YOUR FN SALESPERSON.
MARKETPLACE
COMFORT × Closet Case
For the Lagasse family, food and fashion make up the perfect recipe.
BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
L
bought Donald J Pliner dark brown booties years
ike father, like daughters. Celebrity
ago with a too-high heel.”
chef Emeril Lagasse’s daughters —
Most expensive pair: “Black Prada booties. I
Jilly Lagasse and Jessie Lagasse
bought three pairs, and together they were $300.”
Swanson — have been busy in the
kitchen themselves. The
two just released their
second cookbook, “The
Jilly Lagasse and Jessie
Lagasse Girls’ Big Flavor,
Lagasse Swanson
Bold Taste & No Gluten,” targeting
the growing gluten-free market.
When the two are on kitchen duty,
they opt for functional yet comfortable footwear. Jilly Lagasse prefers
a pair of Nike Dunk sneakers, while
her sister is loyal to Dansko. “My
father always wore them,” said Jessie
Lagasse Swanson. “When we were
younger and helped him at cooking
events, the first things he got us were
a chef coat and clogs.”
The two are not about to give up
on comfort in their downtime, either,
relying on driving mocs or flip-flops.
Here, the sisters compare footwear
wardrobes and reveal their favorite
shopping haunts.
JESSIE LAGASSE SWANSON
Number of pairs owned: 57
Brands: Bruno Magli, Chaco,
Dansko, Ferragamo, Merrell, New
Balance and Tod’s, among others.
Personal style: “I have two small
boys, so we’re always outside. My
go-to these days is a Chaco flip-flop
in neon purple and green. In winter,
it’s a Merrell slip-on or my Tod’s
driving shoes.”
Kitchen duty: “I always have my
Dansko clogs in black on hand. Their
support is unsurpassed, while black
helps hide nasty kitchen spills. And
they’re cute.”
Favorite occasion look: “Bruno
Magli pumps I bought in Italy 15
years ago.”
Most comfortable pair: Tod’s
driving mocs.
Most uncomfortable pair: “I
62 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
JILLY LAGASSE
Number of pairs owned: “A modest 37. With
traveling and constantly moving, I’ve scaled
down my wardrobe. I focus on things I need,
peppered with a few fun pairs I wear twice
a year.”
Brands: “I have a bit of Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy
Choo, Frye, Chanel and Christian Louboutin.
I also have practical styles from
Steve Madden, Nine West, Fit Flops
and even a fun, cheap pair from
Shoedazzle.com. And I have an
obscene amount of Nike, Adidas,
Vans and Reebok.”
Personal style: “I’m a sneaker girl.
I love to throw on a pair of Adidas,
Vans or Reebok. Whenever I travel,
it’s Nike Wedge Dunk all the way.”
Kitchen duty: “I love wearing my
Nike Dunks. It’s all the things you
need in a work shoe.”
Favorite occasion style: “Anything
by Dolce & Gabbana.”
Most comfortable pair: “A skulland-crossbones pair of Vans I’ve had
for 10 years. They’ve been all over the
world with me.”
Most uncomfortable pair: “An
amazing pair of Jimmy Choo tan,
patent leather, basket-weave flats.”
Most expensive pair: “I have the
most yummy pair of satin-and-jewel
Dolce & Gabbana heels. Originally,
they were 520 British pounds, but I
stalked them at a Boxing Day Sale at
Selfridges and got them for 165.”
Least expensive pair: “Flip-flops I
bought in Mumbai for about 90 cents.
This sweet lady was selling things
by the side of the road with her little
ones. It’s a lovely travel memory.”
Favorite store for shoe shopping:
“In the U.S., Saks, Bloomingdale’s and
TJ Maxx. New York has an overload
of fab shoe stores and boutiques, so
I just poodle around and see what I
find. In New Orleans, I go to Sports
Plus on Canal Street for all the latest
trainers. In London, it’s Selfridges,
Harvey Nichols, Topshop and Office. I
also go to TK Maxx, [the U.K. version
of TJ Maxx], where I find interesting
shoes no one here will have.”
PHOTO: COURTESY OF LAGASSES
Cooks’ Choice
Least expensive pair: “A brandless pair of ballet
flats I bought at Marshall’s on sale for under $10.”
Favorite store for shoe shopping: “I hit the
outlets. I love Ferragamo and Cole Haan.”
SAVE THE DATE
M AY 11–13, 20 15
T O A T T E N D : KIM_MANCUSO@FAIRCHILDFASHION.COM 212.630.4212
T O S P O N S O R : AMBER_MUNDINGER@FAIRCHILDFASHION.COM 212.630.4824
MARKETPLACE
CHILDREN’S × Trend
SEE KAI RUN’s
peep-toe Mary Jane
LIVIE & LUCA’s
patent shoe with
heart cutout
Lemon
Squeeze
Designers are adding a sunny twist
to girls’ styles this spring. The cheery
color shows up in shades from bold
citron to pale buttercream.
Thong sandal
with bow detail by
ISAAC MIZRAHI
Yellow punches up
Fun & Fun’s spring ’15
ready-to-wear line
Jute-wrapped
wedge with
polka dots by
CLARKS
64 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
PAZITOS’ Mary
Jane with laser-cut
detailing
PHOTOS: MIZRAHI: ROBERT MITRA; KEDS: THOMAS IANNACCONE; FUN & FUN: GIOVANNI GIANNONI; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
Buckle sandal with
decorative cutouts
by PEDIPED
FFANY
December 3rd-4th
267 Fifth Avenue, 11th Floor
800.325.6116
Under License by BBC INTERNATIONAL LLC, Distributed by TRIMFOOT CO., LLC
MARKETPLACE
CHILDREN’S × 5 Questions
Getting Picked
One entrepreneur survived the “Shark Tank” and is thriving in
her bid to redefine baby moccasins. BY ERIN E. CLACK
S
usan Petersen didn’t let a shoestring
budget stop her from chasing a
big dream.
The Utah mom sold scrap aluminum from her brother’s window installation company to raise startup
capital for her business, Freshly
Picked. Working from home, she
crafted simple leather soft-sole baby moccasins
and began selling them online in late 2009,
utilizing social media to spread the word.
By the end of 2013, Freshly Picked’s sales
topped the million-dollar mark, and its Instagram followers swelled to nearly 300,000.
“We’ve been able to do what a lot of brands can’t
do: get to our customers directly,” Petersen said.
“The great thing about building a business online is you don’t need to raise as much money as
companies that take the traditional route.”
Petersen’s fledgling business got an even bigger boost when she appeared on “Shark Tank,”
the ABC reality series in which aspiring entrepreneurs pitch to a panel of investors. During the
episode, aired in January, Petersen was offered a
deal with shark Daymond John, but she eventually opted to maintain exclusive ownership.
Soon after, Nordstrom came calling. The retail
giant added Freshly Picked to its roster this summer. “We were waiting for a big, top-tier retailer
to kick off [our move into] wholesale,” Petersen
said. This year’s sales are expected to quadruple.
While continuing to focus on e-commerce, the
brand is now building its wholesale business.
Petersen said a large number of retailers are
clamoring to carry her shoes, priced from $45 to
$60. “It’s a great position to be in, but we’re trying
to go slow and not rush into things,” she said.
Here, Petersen talks about diving into the
“Shark Tank” and the tremendous power of
social media.
Susan
Petersen
question. That’s where we’ve had our biggest success; that’s where our supporters live. We’ve been
able to organically grow this amazing community
of moms through social media. Last year, we did
$1.2 million in sales without any advertising
[investment]. We’ve had a lot of success on
Instagram especially. Instagram lends itself to a
one-finger scroll. There are many moms doing
late-night feedings with their babies while surfing their iPhones, and they find us.
How did your “Shark Tank” appearance
boost business?
SP: “Shark Tank” has been incredible for
our brand. Even though it was one of the most
terrifying things I’ve ever done, I would do it again
in a heartbeat. Immediately after the episode
aired, we picked up 34,000 new followers across
our social media platforms. And we’ve had a ton of
new opportunities come about. The sharks were
amazing. They’re obviously looking out for their
own businesses, but they’ve all been on the other
side of that table. They’ve been the scrappy entrepreneur, so they want to help others make it.
3
4
1
Was there a moment when you knew
you’d made it — that Freshly Picked
would be a success?
SP: I wish I felt that way. We’re still so young
and trying to find our footing. There is always a
chance a big company could come along and rip
us off and that would be it. So we’re hustling as
hard as we can. We like to feel we’re the underdog
because it makes us work twice as hard. Also, I’ve
found that being a woman entrepreneur in ecommerce, people don’t always take me seriously,
which is fine — I’ll let the numbers speak for
themselves. I’m really comfortable working from
a place where people underestimate me. [What
matters is that] I know where I’m going.
2
Would your growth have been possible
prior to the online boom?
SP: We’re a business the Internet built, no
You’ve built your brand around a
single silhouette. How do you keep the
collection fresh?
SP: We try to tell a story each season with color.
And we’ve just started printing our own leathers,
which is a fun process. It allows us to get creative.
So that’s how we’re keeping the product fresh. We
actually tried to change up the silhouette a bit,
but we found people love it the way it is.
5
What’s next for Freshly Picked?
SP: We want to continue to expand into
more stores and different countries. We’re
getting some international distributors in place,
[and we’re planning to add] apparel and other
products. We often say we’re not in the shoe
business, we’re in the memories business. When
babies wear our moccasins, their footprint becomes imprinted on the bottom. And there might
be scuff marks from when they were learning to
walk. The moccasins capture that brief, magical
window in time. That’s what we want to sell: products that capture those memories for parents.
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRAND
Freshly Picked
moccasins are
offered in a range
of fabrications
66 |
| NOVEMBER 24 , 2014
MARKETPLACE
Spring ’15 Launches × BUZZ
Relax Mode
PHOTOS: BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
California Footwear Co. will hit the
comfort market with a
collection of laid-back women’s
sandals for spring ’15. The debut line includes
the Sunshine collection, produced in Mexico;
Caliente, made in Spain; and City/Artisanal,
manufactured in the U.S. All styles incorporate
soft, cushioned footbeds. Retailing from $80 to
$130, the line is expected to deliver in February to independents and department stores. A
companion line of boots and closed-up footwear will be added for fall ’15.
Good Company
Marchez Vous is expanding its consumer reach
with a sister collection of younger, more moderately priced looks under the Marchez Vous
Blue label. According to company founder
Yeardley Smith, the series of
modern, trend-driven
shoes is meant for
women ages 25 to 35,
but it will remain true to
the brand’s core focus on comfort, incorporating Poron footbeds. Retailing from $200 to
$300, the line is aimed at department stores.
Delivery is slated for January.
Core Competency
Ten Toes, based in Felgueiras, Portugal, has put
its own twist on tradition with a
collection of men’s contemporary classics for spring ’15.
Included in the offering are
casual ankle boots and
tailored monk
straps. Retailing from $120
to $150, the line targets independents and etailers and is available for immediate delivery
through commercial@tentoes.pt.
Down Time
Comfort collection
Supersoft by Diana
Ferrari is making
its way to the U.S.
The Australian brand — available through Roar Asia Pacific, which
is based in Beverly Hills, Calif. — includes a
full range of styles, from casual moccasins and
ballet flats to mid-heel slingbacks and sandals.
Made for thirtysomething moms or career
women, the series features cushioned footbeds
and soft leather uppers. Retailing from $99 to
$159, the line targets department stores, better
comfort chains and independents, with delivery set for January.
FOOTWEAR NEWS 2014 EDITORIAL CALENDAR
ISSUE DATE
SPACE CLOSE
NOVEMBER
11/3
10/23
EDITORIAL FEATURE
DEER STAGS Milestone, Comfort, Rainboots
Distribution: NSRA Leadership Conference
11/10
10/30
Sneakerhead Issue, Materials & Components
11/24
11/13
TWO TEN Footwear Milestone, FFaNY Pre-Show Issue
Distribution: Two Ten Footwear Annual Dinner, FFaNY
DECEMBER
12/1
11/20
12/22
11/25
12/11
Relaunched in Fall 2013, Shellys London is looking for established Global Distribution partners to expand the
business to the next level.
Shellys London is the heritage Junior Fast Fashion brand from the UK, with unique product, design and
branding. WWW.SHELLYSLONDON.COM
FN Achievement Awards, FFaNY Show Issue
Distribution: FN Achievement Awards, FFaNY
12/8
Shellys London Footwear is looking for a US Distributor & distribution in other global markets.
Women’s, Comfort
Int’l Tradeshow Guide: 1st Half 2015, Year In Review
If you are looking for a fresh project to leverage your extensive retail network, reach out to Julie Papineau juliepapineau@shellyslondon.com and make an appointment to visit us at our NY Showroom during the FFANY
show.
Footwear News
is the premier destination
for the footwear industry’s
classified and career listings.
800.423.3314
OR FAX 212.779.7248
DEADLINE: 2PM (ET) WEDNESDAY PRIOR TO DATE OF PUBLICATION
Tamaris
Leading European women’s fashion
footwear line launching in FW 2015
is looking for
3 Sales Agents in Mid-West,
North-West, and North-East
Please send resume via email to
Jan Brinkmann:
jan.brinkmann@tamaris.us
Hunger
Strikes
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Jennifer Lawrence, star of
the latest installment of the
“Hunger Games” film franchise,
has Hollywood talking about
her unstoppable ability to
produce hit after hit, and had
box office counters estimating
more than $150 million in
opening-weekend ticket sales.
Lawrence fueled the focus with
eye-catching fashions last week
as she stepped out in a silver silk
dress from Dior and Aquazzura’s
metallic gold sandals at the Los
Angeles premiere.
On the Cover: Photographed by THOMAS IANNACCONE
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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68 |
| NOVEMBER 24, 2014
Cong ratulation s to the
Two Ten Foot wear Foundation
on 75 years of e xcellence! We thank
you for your continued suppor t and
ser vice of the foot wear indu str y.
12/3-5
12/10-11
FFANY (YELLOW BOX SHOWROOM - 1370
6 TH AVE STE 601B, NYC)
ATLANTA FASHION SHOE MARKET
T H E BU E N O
TOLL FREE 888-311-6680
YELLOWBOXSHOES.COM