Emilio Federico Schuberth
“Le grand Createur”
Italian fashion was launched and consolidated when Emilio Federico Schuberth was invited by Bista Giorgini
to present his creations at Palazzo Pitti in Florence on 12 February 1951, together with another eight famous
couturiers.
Schuberth was born in 1904 in Naples where he trained according to the best Neapolitan tradition. In the 30’s
he dedicated himself to lingerie at the Montorsi atelier. In 1938 he moved to Rome where he and his wife
opened a milliner’s shop located in via Frattina.
Success was instant and the business grew so quickly that only two years later he opened a Haute Couture
atelier in via Lazio, relocating the following year to via XX Settembre. His creations were distinguished by their
singular, inimitable style: combinations of materials and techniques fused with a luxurious concept of both
fabric and embroidery.
Schuberth launched a new, modern concept of fashion, or rather the garment as a means of expression and
shape as a form of provocation, designed for a ”cosmopolitan” woman.
Schuberth dressed the female icons of the fifties renowned for their narrow waists and eye-catching styles but,
above all, for the romantic, wealthy auras that they exuded.
Soraya, a princess on the run, features largely in a famous anecdote about Schuberth who we are told created
an entire, regal wardrobe for the empress in just one night. His list of prestigious clients also included the
wives and mistresses of King Farouk of Egypt and Maria Pia di Savoia, part of whose trousseau he designed.
He was also a favourite with cinema stars who were unable to resist the appeal of his creations. His garments
were worn by divas of international calibre such as Ingrid Bergman, Brigitte Bardot, Rita Hayworth and Martine
Carol but also by Italian heart-throbs including Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida, Wanda Osiris, Silvana
Pampanini, Lucia Bosè, Silvana Mangano and Elena Giusti. Names which though possibly forgotten today, at
that time featured big in high society and magazines.
Schuberth caused a stir not only with his creations but also as a celebrity in the world of the performing arts,
participating personally in cinema productions. One such example is the 1951 production of the film “Era lui si,
si” where he plays himself during a fitting with the up-and-coming star Sophia Loren, or his appearance in the
famous television program “Il Musichiere” for which he not only created the costumes but can also be seen
singing the song “Donna, cosa si fa per te”. A success that also brought him economic recognition when he
signed an agreement to export his ready-to-wear fashion to the American and German market in 1957.
Also a pioneer in the promotion of his brand name, he created a perfume, Schu-schu, whose advertising
campaign carries the signature of René Gruau.
After having become a key figure on the international fashion scene, an arbiter of taste, an architect of style, a
skilful creator of garments that became objects of art and after leaving an indelible mark in the history of
fashion, Emilio Schuberth died in Rome in 1972 having maintained an undiminished success right until the
very end.
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