FUEL - GAUGE
FUEL/AIR RATIO GAUGE
From: "Ruudje" rkoskamp@worldaccess.nl
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge problems
>From: Ferdinand Tatad Tatad@mail.dec.com
>Subject: Fuel gauge problems
>
>I need some suggestions or a possible solution to my fuel gauge problem. The
>fuel gauge on my 87 944S is not reading the correct fuel level. It never dips
>below the 1/2 reading even though the yellow "low fuel" lights up. But when I
>do fill it up, it indicates that it is full. The only way I don't get stranded
>is to monitor the mileage. If any of you has encountered this problem and know
>of a fix. let me know.
Ferdi Black 87' 944S in Sunny San Diego
---------What helped on my 1988 944 was cleaning the fuel level sensor. It is located
under a plastic cap at the left side of the trunk. After disconnecting the wires
and loosened the device with an home-made tool (Piece of multi-plex wood 1.8mm
made to fit the large plastic screwed-on cap), I disassembled the sensor. Be
careful, there is a very thin wire inside. I carefully cleaned the wire and the
floater that goes along the wire. My gauge is now reading correctly for a year or
so.
Ruudje, 1988 944, 1994 750SS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------To: Jerry Seaney Jerry_Seaney@dell.com
From: mtcarrera@mcn.net (Dave Cooley)
Subject: Re: 951 Fuel Gauge Failure (intermittent)
The 951 instrument cluster is modular, with a couple of large multiple plugs
connecting all the inputs.
The instruments are tied together in back by a
flexible circuit board. A problem such as yours is usually in the connecting
plug (bad contact) or a crack in the circuit board. You might be able to deal
with the connector simply by unplugging and replugging. A circuit board problem
would require removal and repair by a VDO shop. Your problem is not uncommon.
Dave
--------->I need your opinion on a small problem I am having on my '89 951. The fuel gauge
>will intermittently quit working. All the other gauges work properly, though.
>It will happen randomly while stopped or while driving down the road. A slight
>tap on the instrument cluster will usually cause it to start working again (for
>a while). I believe that there is a loose wire or connector at or near the
>gauge, but have never removed the instrument cluster before to check things out.
>Can
you
advise
on
how
to
go
about
correcting
this
problem?
>Jerry_Seaney@us.dell.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------All of you guys looking for electronic A/F gauges and other bits
should check out www.splitsec.com .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Subject: Re: Fuel question?, 11/25/98L
From: Derrek Khajavi huntleyracing@home.com
>anyone is using the fuel pressure gage mounted to the end of the fuel rail.
>What gauge are you using?
---------We sell the VDO gauge that fits there nicely.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Subject: Re: vdo fuel pressure gauge, 11/27/98L
From: Derrek Khajavi huntleyracing@home.com
>Anyone know of a good way to permanently connect the vdo gauge to the end of
>the fuel rail? Thanks.
---------Drill the fuel rail cap and tap it for 1/4 pipe thread. This can be done for
very little money by most shops.
You can get one of our VDO mini pressure gauges for $23 and tap into the fuel
rail cap.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Subject: RE: Cyberdyne Gauge, 1/15/99L
From: Carmen & Sue DeVito devitocs@epix.net
I purchased a Cyberdyne from Derrick at Huntley this summer. It gets its signal
from the stock Oxygen sensor running to pin 24 of the DME. Remember the O2
sensor is the feedback control signal under idle and part throttle so the DME is
controlling the mixture very well. Your concern is WOT, when the O2 sensor is
just along for the ride telling the DME, too lean or too rich, but no one is
listening. If you change the boost via banjo bolt and keep peak boost below 16
psi, your car should be fine stock. The bolt only delays the signal to the KLR
and allows momentary high boost. As the rpm's increase the KLR drops the boost
to 14psi. Assuming your system is in good running order this should be safe.
Personally I like to know how things are running.
You can split the signal at the oxygen sensor (hard since the wire is shielded),
or at the connector at the top of the firewall centered behind the intake
manifold (then run wire through firewall), or open up the DME connector and
connect to pin 24 (slight PIA to get to). I did the later and ran the wire up
under the dash to the A-pillar where I mounted both Boost gauge and A/F meter. I
bought my pod mount from Mustangs Unlimited in California. The fit was pretty
good and only required slight mods to the pod. Good Luck.
---------------------------------------------------------------------Subject: fuel guage, 3/12/99L
From: Jad Duncan jad.duncan@gat.com
I had a fuel guage that stopped working so I pulled the unit from the tank
(about 5 bolts) and cleaned the years of gas residue off which allowed the
float to slide up and down easily and fixed the problem. Might be worth
trying. Costs nothing and only takes about 1/2 hour from start to finish.
Subject: re: measuring fuel pressure, 7/28/99L
From: Davidjalai@aol.com
The threads on the end of the fuel rail is: 12mm x 1.5mm pitch.
The end cap part number is: 928.110.475.01 cost $4.00
A typical Bosch/Porsche 17mm, Banjo bolt will also have the same thread size
and pitch! The banjo bolt will screw right into the end cap - thats what I
did to check that size/fit. This is the same banjo bolt size as teh one thats
on the bent intercooler pipe on 951's or on any CIS equipped engine.
Subject: [951] Re: fuel gauge, 4/8/00
From: Mike mdd1210@aol.com
You can hook a 43ohm resistor between terminal 1&3 on the plug at the sender unit
and your gauge should read full. A 3ohm resistor should show a 1/4 tank.
MESSAGE:
AUTHOR:
(#4336) Re: Fuel Level Gauge, 11/13/00
Mouse Levi2112@Yahoo.com
You all are overlooking the obvious here. Go into the hatch and take out the
carpet. To the right you will find the fuel sender housing. Unscrew all of the
bolts (But first remove the wires) then lift the whole damn thing out. Give it a
minute or two to drain. Then you have two options.....take it apart and clean it
or give it a couple of shakes to clean the crud off in the inside. BUT BE CAREFUL
WHEN YOU DO THAT!!!! Then replace and you'll be surprised to see what happens.
Your fuel gauge should work perfectly. :) Quick and easy. What happens is the
float inside the sender or whatever you call it gets a little dirty and it won't
float anymore, it just needs to be cleaned. This happened to my 83 and being that
I’m real anal when it comes to the car I took it into the shop and the mechanic
said give me two minutes...he did what I just described (He shook it) and put it
back in. The gauge has worked since then. I know...it just sounds to damn simple.
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure gauge, 12/1/00
From: "myatuck" myatuck@cabarrus.com
I went this way but you should understand it is on a project car that has yet to
run. Hence while I can vouch for the installation and very nice look, I can't say
how well it actually works. Not that I have any concern in that regard, just want
to make a full disclosure.
In any event, Summit Racing liquid filled gauge. Cheap, nice looking, one day
free delivery. Jegs and others have identical gauges. The Summit part number is:
800160. You can see pictures at www.summitracing.com. Liquid filled gauges are
designed to reduce the "bouncing" needle problem.
Depressurize if necessary, then remove fuel rail end cap, tap and thread a 1/8"
NPT hole (pipe thread), very, very slightly off center. Test fit one of the
elbows described in next para. Reinstall end cap w/o ball but with a good fuel
resistant sealant. (Does anyone know why that ball is there to start with?)
Install a 1/8" NPT street elbow into end cap, then a second identical elbow into
the first elbow. This combination, when installed, creates an "L" which in effect
drops the soon to be installed gauge, thereby eliminating the clearance problem
presented by the low slope of the hood. Again, use sealant. Note: a 'street'
elbow has one female and one male end. There are different sizes of 1/8" NPT
elbows, look for the smallish, block style variety. When screwed together
TIGHTLY, these create a nice flush fitting with all threads hidden from view.
You'll know them when you see them.
Thread gauge into second elbow. Again with the sealant.
The only trick to this approach is aligning everything. Because there isn't room,
you can't sub-assemble then install. Instead, you have to anticipate when each
component (including the end cap because you drilled slightly off center) will
tighten such that the openings and the gauge end up in a nice, vertical alignment
while simultaneously positioning the gauge as far as possible from the hood. And,
while the gauge in any event will face forward you don't want it cocked at an
angle as that would be unsightly.
Again, IMO, the end result is quite nice, positioning the gauge just behind the
raised front of the aluminum cam housing.
Subject: Re: fuel pressure gauge, 12/18/00
From: "patrick leber" patrick.leber@bellatlantic.com
VDO makes a nice small one with metric fittings that wont interfere with the
hood. Or you can mount it remotely on the inside fender well.
Try North
Hollywood Speedo at 818-761-5136 or www.nhspeedometer.com
Subject: [951] Re: fuel rail pressure gauge source needed, 2/22/01
From: "David Floyd" kfloyd@cafes.net
Summit Racing 800-230-3030, MSC Industrial Supply
Huntley Racing has them.
800-645-7270 and I think
Subject: Fw: Fuel Gauge, 4/9/02
From: Steve Petty "myatuck" myatuck@cabarrus.com
Bob Patterson rdp@vla.com wrote:
<< I have the same problem. Can tell you how to diagnose. Lift the rear carpet
out, and pull up the foil backed square of insulation, under-which you'll find
about a 4" round rubber cap. >>
<< Lift the cap, and that exposes the top of the fuel sender. >>
<< Unplug the sender, and pop the top off the plug from the car harness, exposing
three wires. >>
<< Turn the key on, and touch the green and brown together. The gauge should go
to full. If it does, then the sender is hanging up. The sender is "right there"
and consists of a float on a central rod and two guide wires.
Sometimes
corrosion, etc., will hang up the float. Clean it up. >>
<< If, on the other hand, the gauge does not progress to full, you've got a bad
gauge. That's a different repair. >>
---------You and Dan might wish to add this to your archives. Worked perfectly. All you
have to do is short the two wires together with a screwdriver, nothing more fancy
than that. If the gauge tops out, you can or at least I could simply tap the
sender with the handle of the screwdriver to shake the sender loose, at least
temporarily, proving that indeed the problem is a gummed up level.