GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
Georgetown University
Outdoor Education
Rock Climbing Protocols
Purpose: The purpose of this document is to ensure a fun, educational experience for
climbing clients and instructors while reducing hazards to an acceptable level. This document is
not intended to substitute for adequate training and proper judgment on the part of the climbing
instructor.
Participants:
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Outdoor Education Director (OED): The OED is the person ultimately responsible
for the instruction and supervision of CI's. He ensures that CI's have been properly
trained and equipped to perform their duties. It is only through his permission that
persons may lead rock-climbing trips. The OED mayor may not be present at rock
climbing activities. If the OED is present on a rock-climbing trip, he fulfills the role of a
Climbing Instructor.
Climbing Instructor (CI): The CI is a person who has been approved to lead rockclimbing trips by the OED. The CI has proven competency at a variety of skills
including, but not limited to: climbing anchor construction, top rope site management,
belay instruction, wilderness and leave-no-trace education, and group leadership in a
wilderness environment. The CI has typically completed GOAT and GRIP training,
though exceptions may be made for persons who have accumulated significant climbing
and wilderness experience via other means.
Client: A client may be any person wishing to participate in the rock climbing
experience under the direction and guidance of Georgetown University Outdoor
Education.
Participant: A participant is any person on a rock climbing trip, either a CI or client
Staffing Requirements:
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A minimum of two CI's must accompany each rock climbing trip
At least one CI must possess certification in Wilderness First Aid (WF A) or a higher
level of wilderness medical training such as Wilderness First Responder (WFR)
The ratio of CI's to clients must not exceed 1:6.
The Climbing Day:
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Before Departure:
o The CI's must contact clients at least 24-48 hours prior to departure via phone or
email and inform them of the following:
 Meeting Time and Place
 What they need to bring (participant forms, water, etc.)
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GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
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 A brief summary of the day's itinerary
 Expected time of return to campus
o All Participants (CI's and Clients) must complete and bring with them two copies
of the Participant Form
o CI's must verify that each participant has all the items on the gear list as well as
any additional items necessary for the destination and expected conditions
o CI's must complete 3 copies of an Emergency Action Plan (EAP) and Time
Control Plan (TCP)
o The following must be carried with the CI's on the trip and handed in to the
Department of Public Safety (DOPS) before departure
 A participant form for each person on the trip
 A TCP
 An EAP
Gear Check List:
o Each Person
 Harness (individually inspected by CI's to ensure adequacy)
 Helmet (ANSI or UIAA Approved)
 Climbing Shoes (if desired)
 Appropriate Clothing and rain gear
 At least one liter of water
 Sufficient food to provide energy for a day of climbing
 A sturdy backpack (preferably with two shoulder straps) to carry all
necessary items
o Group Gear (see also, anchor construction)
 Appropriate number and length of static cords and webbing for anchor
construction at site
 As many dynamic climbing ropes as there will be routes setup at anyone
time
 Appropriate number of steel locking carabineers (at least two per dynamic
rope)
 At least one belay device and locking carabineer per dynamic rope
 First Aid Kit (inspected to ensure requisite contents as per GOAT
protocols)
 A cell phone for emergency communications
En Route:
o All safety precautions must be followed as per van driver instruction
o During the approach hike visual contact should be maintained between the CI's
and clients as much as possible
o General wilderness protocols should be followed as per GOAT instruction
o Clients may provide their own transportation and should be given clear directions
to the climbing site trail head if they chose to do so
Belay School:
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GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
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o Once at the climbing site, one CI may begin anchor construction while another
instructs clients in proper belay technique and general behavior guidelines for the
climbing site
o Clients should be instructed that the following five things must be checked (in
order) by both the climber and the belayer before the climber begins climbing:
 Climber's Harness:
 Adjusted and fitted properly with no visible wear or damage
 Buckle is doubled back or secured with a non-sliding buckle (e.g.
Some Petzl models)
 Climber's Connection to Rope:
 Climber is tied in properly with a figure-eight follow though and
double or triple fisherman's backup
 Rope is threaded through leg loops and waist loop or through
single master point (such as a belay loop)
 The Rope:
 Rope is appropriately positioned to protect the route the climber is
attempting
 Climber and belayer are attached to the same rope •
 Belayer's connection to Rope:
 Rope is threaded through belay device and locking carabineer
appropriately
 Belay device is positioned so brake end of the rope is comfortably
handled with the belayer's dominant hand
 Belayer's Harness verified in same manner as climber's harness
 Belayer’s and Climber’s helmet is on using the strap and fitting so it does
not slip forward or backwards, nor side to side.
o Clients should be instructed in the skills of belaying with a tube style belay
devices as per John Long's How to Rock Climb or Mountaineering: Freedom of
the Hills published by The Mountaineers
 Note: We can just say the above and skip all that business of checking the
5 things. I think it is important, however, to stress that element of belay
school
o Clients must be instructed in appropriate behavior at the climbing site and must be
told that they must wear a helmet at all times while fewer than 50 feet from the
base of the cliff face or anywhere else where the CI's deem it necessary
Anchor Construction I Site Setup:
o The CI's must create and maintain an environment at the climbing site which:
 Minimizes hazards to all participants to whatever extent is possible and
reasonable while understanding that some hazards are inevitable in the
sport of rock climbing
 Allows for easy communication between all participants • Fosters a fun,
educational environment
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GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
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o Anchors must follow all of the guidelines listed below in the Anchor Construction
section
o In certain situation~, it will be necessary for a CI to lead a climb in order to set up
a top rope anchor. This may be done only by the OED or other persons he has
deemed competent to do so.
o Additionally, the CI leading the climb must ensure that he is belayed by another
CI who is competent in the skill of lead belaying
Climbing/Belaying:
o At least one CI should maintain visual contact with each person climbing and
belaying at all times
o CI's should continuously re-evaluate site conditions to minimize hazards
o Climbers and belayers must follow the guidelines set out in belay school
o Bouldering:
 Participants may boulder (climbing close to the ground without a rope) if
they desire but only if being spotted by a person deemed competent to do
so by a CI
 CI's should also maintain visual contact at all times with a client who is
bouldering
 A boulderer's feet should never be more than 5 feet off the ground
Site Deconstruction:
o All Equipment should be gathered and packed appropriately
o A final survey of the site should be performed to ensure that nothing is left behind
Traveling Back to Campus:
o CI's should begin de-briefing the clients and getting feedback about the trip
After the Trip:
o Survey forms must be completed by all participants and gathered for submission
to the OED
o All Outdoor Ed gear (including the Waka) must be returned to its appropriate
location
o CI's must notify OE director of their return
o Clients should be thanked for participating in an Outdoor Ed experience
o CI’s must fill out necessary co-guide evaluations and accident reports (as
necessary)
Equipment Guidelines:
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All equipment must be free from visible damage and inspected before and after each
rock climbing trip
Carabineers used for anchor placement must be steel, locking carabineers
Carabineers used for belaying must be designed for climbing use and have locking gates
Dynamic Ropes must be less than 4 years old, DIAA approved for climbing use,
and at least 10 mm in diameter
Webbing must be less than 4 years old, tubular, and 1 or more inches thick
Static Ropes must be less than 4 years old and at least 9 mm in diameter
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GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
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Belay devices must be of the tube style such as the Black Diamond A TC
Harnesses must be professionally manufactured for the explicit purpose of climbing use
and must fit the wearer appropriately
Helmets must be ANSI or DIAA approved for climbing use
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GEORGETOWN OUTDOOR EDUCATION
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Ropes should ideally be stored in rope bags and must never be flaked on open ground,
but rather onto a cloth surface such as a rope bag
All equipment must be free from visible damage and inspected before and after each
rock climbing trip
Climbing Anchor Construction:
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All climbing anchors must be ERNEST:
E - Equalized: Each anchor must contain two or more points that share the load equally.
Additionally, the angle formed between any two points and the power point must be less
than 90 degrees
R - Redundant: The entire anchor should be constructed in such a manner that failure of
anyone component will not cause total failure of the anchor
NE - No Extension: If one component of the anchor should fail, the remainder of the
anchor should be able to absorb the entire load without the power point accelerating
towards the load (climber) and causing the remainder of the anchor to be shock-loaded
S - Solid and Stable: Each of the two or more anchor points must be capable of handling
the entire load of the climber falling. (Further information on evaluating each anchor
point is listed below)
T - Timely: The anchor should be constructed in an efficient manner with consideration
to appropriate placement to protect the climber on the desired route
Additional considerations:
o Each Point in the anchor must be evaluated as follows:
 Trees must be at least 6" in diameter and healthy with good root structures
 Boulders must appear as though they would not move if a large truck were
to collide with them at high speed and must be seated in a manner in
which they can be slung with little or no danger of the static line or
webbing slipping over the top
 Pinches or chocks must be in stable, non-moving, solid rock and appear
capable of holding a large truck suspended in the air
 Bolts must be of at least 3/8" in diameter and visually inspected to ensure
adequacy
 Artificial gear (SLCD's, nuts, hexes, etc.) may only be used by the OED
and persons expressly granted permission to do so by the OED after
demonstrating competency in their use
 Artificial gear must be well placed and situated in a manner so as
to maximize its effectiveness
o The power point must be located over the cliff edge and in a place that will allow
the rope to run freely through the carabineers
o The power point must consist of two locking, steel carabineers in opposite and
opposed position with the gates locked
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