Contents
Contents ............................................................................................................................... 7
Chapter#1 .......................................................................................................................... 11
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY .......................................................... 11
1.0. INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................... 12
1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL ............................................................................ 14
1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL ............................................................................... 15
1.3. QUALITY TERMS ........................................................................................................ 15
1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT .......................................... 15
1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY ........................................................................................... 16
1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY ............................................................................................... 18
1.6.0.Introduction ......................................................................................................... 18
1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector .................................................. 19
1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS ............................................................................................. 20
1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS ................................................................................................ 21
1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector ...............................................22
Chapter#2 .......................................................................................................................... 24
FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEMS .............................................................................. 24
2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION .................................................................................... 25
2.2. Four- Point System .................................................................................................... 25
2.1.0Advantages ........................................................................................................... 26
2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEM .................................................................................................... 28
2.3.0.Advantages .......................................................................................................... 29
2.3.1.Disadvantage ....................................................................................................... 29
2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEM ......................................................................................... 29
2.5. DALLAS SYSTEM ....................................................................................................... 30
2.6. CONCLUSION ............................................................................................................ 30
Chapter #3 ......................................................................................................................... 31
SPREADING AND CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM.................................................... 31
3.1. QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADING ................................................................... 32
3.2. SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS ...................................................................... 32
3.3. Fabric Spreading Objective ....................................................................................... 32
3.4. THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESS ..................................................33
3.5. Type of Spreads ........................................................................................................ 34
3.6. General Fabric Spreading System ............................................................................. 34
3.7. Conclusion ................................................................................................................ 36
3.8.1Cutting (Manual) ................................................................................................... 36
3.8.2. Cutting (Auto) ..................................................................................................... 36
3.9. Cut components inspection ................................................................................... 37
3.10. Cutting Room Functions ...................................................................................... 37
3.11. Requirements of Pattern Cutting ......................................................................... 37
3.16. Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting ............................................................... 38
3.13.Numbering ............................................................................................................ 39
3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production ........................................ 39
3.15. Panel Checking System ....................................................................................... 39
3.16. Conventional cut parts inspection System ........................................................... 39
3.17. Conclusion ........................................................................................................... 40
Chapter #4 ......................................................................................................................... 41
STITCHING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS ............................................................................ 41
4.1. STITCHING ................................................................................................................ 42
4.2. 7-0 system ................................................................................................................ 42
4.2.1. Advantages ......................................................................................................... 42
4.2.2.Disadvantages ..................................................................................................... 42
4.3. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM ............................................................................................ 43
4.3.1. Advantages ......................................................................................................... 45
4.3.2. Disadvatages ...................................................................................................... 45
4.4. Conventional Quality Control System ....................................................................... 46
4.5. Random Inspection System: ..................................................................................... 46
4.6. GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHING DEPARTMENT ............................ 46
4.7. Conclusion ................................................................................................................ 47
Chapter#5 .......................................................................................................................... 48
SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS ......................................................................... 48
5.1.Cutting ...................................................................................................................... 48
5.2.Sewing ....................................................................................................................... 49
5.2.1.Potential Major faults .......................................................................................... 49
5.2.2.Potential minor faults.......................................................................................... 50
5.3.Embroidery ............................................................................................................... 51
5.4.Printing ..................................................................................................................... 52
5.5.Finishing and packaging ........................................................................................... 53
5.6.Final Audit ................................................................................................................. 54
5.7. Clipping Inspection ................................................................................................... 54
5.8. Final inspection ......................................................................................................... 545.9.
Pressing Inspection ........................................................................... 58
5.10. SPECS INSPECTION ................................................................................................. 58
5.11. Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack) ............................................................. 58
5.12. Packing inspection .................................................................................................. 59
5.13. Conclusion .............................................................................................................. 59
References ......................................................................................................................... 60
From Websites:................................................................................................................ 60
From Persons: .................................................................................................................. 61
Chapter#1
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY
1.0. INTRODUCTION
Garment manufacturing is quite different to any other conventional manufacturing. It is not a
continuous production method. Each style is different product that requires different type of
fabric color buttons thread etc. Hence requirement of product integrity at every stage requires
detailed knowledge about the quality parameters, quality problems, their causes and remedies.
For quality production it is better to know the complete process of garment making (selection of
yarn-fabric production and garment manufacturing) so that quality level can be improved. If one say
"improve quality improve productivity" without showing how when and where we can improve
it. That will not solve the problem. Instead of that we should try to draw the attention of
work force towards the shortcomings inherent in the quality systems and processes. To ensure a quality
product the first step that manufacturer should take is the quality control and the evaluation of
input material. The factories that control/ensure the fabric quality level don’t have workers with
necessary skill level and understanding. They don’t understand the types and inherent nature and
characteristics of the fabric. Some characters, which appear as fabric defect, may be nature of
another type of fabric. There were many instances where fabric is rejected due to this
misunderstanding. There are no proper training facilities courses, and material available in
our country to enhance the knowledge of workers engaged in knit wear production. At present
technological level, it impossible for any fabric mil to manufacture absolutely defect free fabric.
To control and evaluate the fabric and garment quality.
What is Quality?
Quality is unusually slippery and difficult to come to grip with. Therefore some might say
“Quality is something I know when I see it. To some Quality is difficult to be explained like
love or happiness. Once the concept of Quality is understood fundamentally it stops being
slippery and becomes something which can hold by its tail.
According to dictionary Quality is: - an essential character: nature, an ingredient or
distinguishing attribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.
Different people have different views about quality.
•The best money can buy
•Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications.
•Craftsmanship
•The degree of excellence that an item possesses.
•Product with no defect found
•Absence of variation in its broad sense.
•Meeting or exceeding customer expectation.
These responses depend on people’s perception of the value of a product or service under
considerate on and their explanation of performance, durability, reliability etc. of that product or service.
Customer satisfaction
The key is to know accurately customer expectations on a continuing basis. Unless you know
customer expectations how could you satisfy a customer or meet or exceed their expectations.For this it is
essential to understand the 5w’s
Why
When
Where
The customer is not satisfied???
What
Who
Therefore understanding the customer need is the priority in the Quality of a product.
Why do we buy a product?
We buy a product because we want to use that product. If the product that
y o u b o u g h t h a s s o m e deficiency you will not be satisfied. Then you say that the product
that you bought is defective, and you will be mentally worried every time you make use of the
product and physically too you may not feel comfortable. Therefore Quality is also defined as “fitness
for use”.“The fitness for use” concept can be applied to garments too. For a garment to be fit for
use provided its style is acceptable: •It must be free from defects such as stain, material (fabric) defects, open seams, loose
hanging broken
stitches,
Skip/Slip
stitches,
puckered
seams,
misaligned
components/buttons/buttonholes, defective trims and accessories etc.
•It must fit properly for the label size.
•It must look attractive.
•It must perform satisfactorily in normal use that a garment must be able to withstand
normal laundering/dry cleaning/pressing cycles. Without loss of color or shrinkage;
seams must not come apart; fabric must not tear, etc.“Quality is a matter of your taste, training
and attitude, and your understanding of taste, culture and attitudes of your buyers. The
better the understanding between two, the better the quality”
1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL
The essential requirements for producing a reliable product has been stated as follows:-A satisfactory
design of product, thoroughly proved by adequate development testing in order to
establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use. This is the
Requisite Quality of the product. A full specification of the requirements of this quality, which
must be clearly understood by everyone concerned with the production of the constituent parts
and of the complete end product. Confirmation that the manufacturing processes are capable of
meeting these requirements. Full acceptance, by all those concerned with production, of the
responsibility for meeting the standards set by the specification. Checks on the product at every stage
of manufacture to detect any departures from the specification. Record essential information
derived from these checks to provide accurate evidence for action. Establishment of lines of
communication, - i.e. Feedback to Production, - to ensure that this action is taken to effect
the appropriate adjustments to materials, process and operatives to maintain FUTURE
production within the specification. Instruction in the use, applications and limitations of
the product. A study of user experience, feedback to the department's concerned, and rapid remedial action.
1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL
In a total quality control scheme, the total involvement of all personnel is required as a philosophy. The
staff concerned in all duties must be given authority to carry out their functions. These functions
should be defined. Lines of communication and responsibility should be estab lished to
carry out an effective policy. Horizontal communication at all levels of personnel between
Quality Control, Production and other departments is needed. Also there must be vertical lines,
which follow the lines of responsibility and authorit y. In order to achieve this aim, the
terms of reference under which staff work, must be established. This is, perhaps, best
accomplished by job descriptions. It is the job of Quality Control to establish the correct
information concerning a quality situation, and present this clearly to their colleagues.
Persons outside Quality Control must be authorised to make the commercial decisions
involved from a pre-established series of options, the consequences of each being fully
understood. Payment schemes should be re-examined where necessary to reward quality as well
as production, in a balanced way, since both are commercially important.
1.3. QUALITY TERMS
Quality
“ It is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are
needed for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold”
Quality Control
"The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various
groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as
the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.
Quality Assurance
"The establishment and maintenance of all activities and functions concerned with the attainment
of requisite quality"
1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT
INDULGE AND MONITOR QUALITY SYSTEMS
The Q/A dept is required to induce the Q/C dept to implement standard quality systems
required by buyers to improve and maintain a very good OQL. The implemented
qualit y s ystem should be monitored on a daily basis. So that the system runs without
any failure. Under no circumstances the systems should be changed or stopped. The quality
system should be very strong so that nothing could penetrate through and result in failure of
audits or re-screening.
TRAINING AND EVALUATING QUALITY STAFF
It is the prime responsibility of the senior quality staff to train all the Q/A staff to
Achieve skilled levels within a short frame of time. The Q/A dept in coordination with the
production dept and Q/C dept should train the Q/C team to achieve skilled levels. A training
program should be designed which will enable to execute simple and proper training to
enhance the skill levels of Q/C and Q/A staff up to standard. The Q/A department will
evaluate all the inline and final quality control inspectors on their performance. The evaluation
will be based on the overall quality level less than 4 % for any merit or reward systems.
ASSURE THE QUALITY OF PRODUCTS
Q/A will performance audits at cutting stage to assure the cut products to confirm
required quality standard at OQL 1.5 %.The inline Q/A Auditor will perform random audits to
assure stitching quality of products. The objective will be to inspect and identify the problems
and give Corrective action to the root cause of the problems, The Q/A auditor will highlight the
problems to the Q/C dept for corrective action. The inline audits will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5
with a view of preventing re-occurrence of the problems. The Finishing Q/A officers will audit
finished goods before packing with the same .Objective and concentrate more on the presentation of
the final products. The audit will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5.The Final Q/A Auditor will conduct
audit for quality and specs. The final auditor will also conduct packing audit to
ensure the Ratio, Color, Cartooning, Packing accuracy, Presentation, Packing
accessories, CTN marks and numbers etc.
1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY
Dimension 1: Performance
Does the product or service do what it is supposed to do, within its defined tolerances?
Performance is often a source of contention between customers and suppliers, particularly when
deliverables are not adequately defined within specifications. The performance of a product often
influences profitability or reputation of the end-user. As such, many contracts or specifications
include damages related to inadequate performance.
Dimension 2: Features
Does the product or services possess all of the features specified, or required for its intended
purpose? While this dimension may seem obvious, performance specifications rarely define the features
require din a product. Thus, it’s important that suppliers designing product or services from performance
specifications are familiar with its intended uses, and maintain close relationships with the end-users.
Dimension 3: Reliability
Will the product consistently perform within specifications? Reliability may be closely related to
performance. For instance, a product specification may define parameters for up-time, or acceptable failure
rates. Reliability is a major contributor to brand or company image, and is considered a fundamental
dimension of quality by most end-users.
Dimension 4: Conformance
Does the product or service conform to the specification? If it’s developed based on a performance
specification, does it perform as specified? If it’s developed based on a design specification, does it possess
all of the features defined?
Dimension 5: Durability
How long will the product perform or last, and under what conditions? Durability is closely related to
warranty. Requirements for product durability are often included within procurement contracts and
specifications. For instance, fighter aircraft procured to operate from aircraft carriers include design criteria
intended to improve their durability in the demanding naval environment.
Dimension 6: Serviceability
Is the product relatively easy to maintain and repair?
As end users become more focused on Total Cost of Ownership than simple procurement costs,
serviceability (as well as reliability) is becoming an increasingly important dimension of quality and criteria
for product selection.
Dimension 7: Aesthetics
The way a product looks is important to end-users. The aesthetic properties of a product contribute to a
company’s or brand’s identity. Faults or defects in a product that diminish its aesthetic properties, even those
that do not reduce or alter other dimensions of quality, are often cause for rejection.
Dimension 8: Perception
Perception is reality. The product or service may possess adequate or even superior dimensions of quality,
but still fall victim to negative customer or public perceptions. As an example, a high quality product may
get the reputation for being low quality based on poor service by installation or field technicians. If the
product is not installed or maintained properly, and fails as a result, the failure is often associated with the
product’s quality.
Summary
It should be obvious from the discussion above that the individual dimensions of quality are not necessarily
distinct. Depending on the industry, situation, and type of contract or specification several or all of the above
dimensions may be interdependent. When designing, developing or manufacturing a product (or delivering
a service) the interactions between the dimensions of quality must be understood and taken into account.
While these dimensions may not constitute a complete list of relevant dimensions, taking them into
consideration should provide us with a better understanding of the slippery concept of quality.
1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY
1.6.0.Introduction
A manufacturer stays in business only as long as his product quality satisfies his customers at the
price they are prepared to pay. Failure to maintain an adequate qualit y standard can therefore
be disastrous. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs effort. From the first
investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product really wants, through
the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale, to the
arrangements for sales service to the customer, effort is
ensuring that the company's product - and reputation - are good. If it is spent wisely, it
can result in savings greater than the increase in costs, and hence in an improvement to profits. The
costs represented by this effort can be a significant proportion of the products sales value (Do
you know what the total is in your Company? In some instances the cost of scrap, rework and
inspection costs alone has been found to be as high as 20% of turn-over) and any manufacturer
should be interested in making sure that he is getting good value for his expenditure. He
cannot feel sure unless he has studied what the costs are, how they are incurred and what they
ought to be. If they are higher than they should be, he must consider ways in which they can be
reduced.
1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
Cost of Quality (COQ) in the apparel sector is still a widely understood misconception. The term
often gets associated incorrectly with the price of creating quality merchandise. Actually, it is the
other way round i.e. the amount of money incurred because the product was not
manufactured right at the first time. Thus, the concept of quality costs in the garment
industry is a means to quantify the total cost involved in quality-related efforts and deficiencies
pertains to a manufactured apparel product .Although it is not very easy to calculate COQ for any
industry, research shows that the costs of poor quality can range from 15%-40% of business
costs (e.g. rework, returns or complaints, reduced service levels, lost revenue). Most of the
apparel units do not know what their quality costs are because they do not keep records on a
daily basis. A large portion of resources is consumed in finding and correcting mistakes in the
merchandise or related processes. Typically, the cost to eliminate a failure in the
customer phase is five times greater than it is at the merchandise development or manufacturing
phase. Every time work is redone, the cost of quality increases. The obvious examples in the
apparel sector include:
•The reworking of a garment
•The retesting of performance of apparel
•The rebuilding of a garment machine
•The correction of an apparel size specification sheet or change of care label
•The reprocessing of garment to improve dimensional stability after wash or the replacement of a
trim to fulfill the requirement of a customer or to meet safety issues.
In general, the cost of quality has two main components: the cost of good quality (or the
cost of conformance) and the cost of poor quality (or the cost of non -conformance)
according to Philip B Crosby in his book Quality Is Free
The cost of poor qualit y affects internal and external costs resulting fr om failing
to meet the requirements specified for an apparel product by the garment industry. On the
other hand, the cost of good quality affects the cost for investing in the prevention of
nonconformance to requirements and the costs for appraising the apparel product for conformance to
requirements.
1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS
Obviously, the most significant improvements will usually be achieved by concentrating effort
on the areas of high cost. For this purpose an analysis of the principal costs is required. Studies
have shown that a fairly typical ratio between the three main groups of costs in a manufacturing company
is:
•Prevention Costs 5%
•Appraisal Costs 30%
•Failure Costs - 65%
Failure Costs, because they are typically the largest, will usually give the largest return for the
effort involved in reducing them. An effective way of attacking Failure Costs is through a
temporary increase in prevention and appraisal costs.
Appraisal Costs - for example, the cost of production and inspection - might be reduced
by more attention to Value Engineering, which would to some extent increase
prevention costs, and a closer control of the manufacturing process, which would increase appraisal
costs.
Appraisal Costs will usually be the next to come under attack. An analysis of all essential quality control
operations will often show opportunities for reducing expenditure without reducing
effectiveness. For example, statistical sampling techniques may be used as a means of
control, indicating trends in performance and assisting to maintain quality. By improving the
control of the process, 100 per cent inspection may no longer be necessary.
Total costs will be lowest when design staff are aware of the cost implications of their
work. Good design saves cost not only at the design stage itself but throughout
production and testing: products become easier to make "right first time". Good design is
needed not only when conceiving the product but also when conceiving systems for production
and quality control. After failure and appraisal costs have been reduced by attention to the
prevention aspect, it may be possible to reduce prevention costs as well .
We have seen that the process of reducing failure costs may well involve increasing expenditure
on the design, developing, testing, manufacturing and inspecting processes. However, there must
clearly be a point beyond which it would be uneconomic to incur additional expense. Failure
costs might possibly be eliminated but at considerable, possibly prohibitive, costs in other areas.
There is a point at which the aggregate of all costs is at a minimum for the intended selling price.
Achieving this minimum cost will involve reviewing product designs, and improving planning
processes, facilities and methods.
When the initial attack on costs has been successful, it will be logical to provide a means for
analyzing costs and for reporting on them in order to keep a close watch on progress so that,
firstly, a worthwhile reduction in the attacked cost is achieved; and secondly, the
expected increase in other costs is not exceeded.
1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS
The only purpose of reporting costs is to provoke action. Without action the money spent on
deriving and reporting data is wasted.
Action is required whenever there is a significant difference between an actual cost and the
budget set for it. Action is also required to discover the reason for the difference and to eliminate
it. If cost reports are to be effective in provoking this type of action they must be
- presented at suitably short intervals
- presented quickly following the period they represent
- presented in simple, direct, intelligible form
- presented to the people who have the authority and knowledge to act effectively.
It is often effective for reports to be sent both to the person who is expected to take action and also to his
immediate superior.
It is important to remember that the actual costs revealed by control reports are the result of joint
action by quality control staff and by the design or manufacturing functions. Action to
correct undesirable trends may therefore have to be taken by all these groups in co-operation.
Action by any one group may well be fruitless.
1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
However, no standard relationship exists among the four parameters of quality costs. One can
expect to reduce the internal and external failure costs by increasing prevention and appraisal
costs. But it is also well understood that, in spite of excellent quality of raw materials and good
inspection coverage, the quality of a garment also depends on workmanship, which may be a
prime factor of hindrance in the attainment of quality owing to poor training, poor maintenance of
machines, and lack of requisite skill.
1.8.1.Prevention Costs
The costs of all activities specificall y designed to prevent poor qualit y in an
apparel product or associated processes. Examples of prevention cost:
• New merchandise review
•Quality planning
•Supplier capability surveys
•Process capability evaluations
•Quality improvement team meetings
•Quality improvement projects
•Quality education and training
Minimum neck stretch must meet the required measurements specified. Sample
complies measures22".Monofilament thread is not permitted for use in children's
clothing. For all the paints and other coatings used on hardware including buttons, the lead
content must be tested for permissible limit. All buttons must be machine lock stitched and withstand
pull test.
1.8.2.Appraisal Costs:
The costs associated with measuring, evaluating apparel merchandise or auditing related
production factory to assure conformance to quality standards and performance requirements.
Examples of Appraisal Costs
•Incoming and source inspection/test of purchased material.
•In-process and final inspection/test.
•Product. Process or service audits.
•Calibration of measuring and test equipment.
•Associated supplies and materials.
1.8.3.Internal Failure Costs
Failure costs that arise before an apparel company supplies its product to the customer
i.e. prior to delivery or shipment of the merchandise. These are due to deficiencies discovered
before delivery and are associated with the failure (non-conformance) to meet the needs of
customers. If internal quality failures of defective merchandise are identified before
shipping then optimistically there may be no external failure costs.
Examples of Internal Failure Costs
•Scrap
•Rework
•Re-inspection
•Re-testing
•Material review
•Downgrading
•Returning garment for re-work
1.8.4.External Failure Costs
These are typically due to errors found by customers. Failure costs that arise after a
garment unit supplies the product to the customer, such as cost of returned merchandise, cost of quality
claims, cost of transportation for the defective merchandise, personnel costs associated with these activities.
These cost scan be much higher than internal failure costs, because the stakes are much higher.
Examples of External Failure Costs
•Processing customer complaints
•Customer returns
•Product recalls
Chapter#2
FABRIC INSPECTIONSYSTEMS
2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll.
Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. They
inspect 20%of the rolls that they receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This
way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production.
2.2. Four- Point System
It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers.
Widelyadopted and used in knitted fabric.
Amount to select
Inspect at least 20% of the total rolls of the shipment.
Selection of rolls
Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected, then choose the
additionalroles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.
Defect Classification (Four- Point System)
Size Defect Penalty
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The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any
defect that would cause a finalgarment to be considered a second.)
Major Defects
•Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns,
yarnvariation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
•Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color
smear,or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation
•40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate
•# of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure
•Determine the amount to inspect 20%).
•Select the rolls to inspect.
•Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
•Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of
thestrip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any
shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.
•Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects.
(Thefabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you
mayhave to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
•Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
•Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
•Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
•Record any defects.
The weaving division functions under the principles of the internationally acclaimed American 4
pointsystem to reduce wastage and ensure quality. Under this system, fabric inspection and
grading is carriedout as per ASTM standard.
2.1.0Advantages
•4 point system has not width limitation.
•Worker can easily understand it.
2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEM
The ten point system for piece goods evaluation was approved by the Textile distributors
institute andthe National Federation of Textile, in 1955. The earliest inspection system and is
designed to identifydefects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect. The
system assigns penalty pointsto each defect depending on its length and whether it is in the warp
(ends) or weft (fill) direction. Whilesounding simple, it can get quite complicated in practical use. The
following table shows the assignmentof penalty points.
Warp defects Points Weft defects
PointsUnder 1” 1 Under 1” 11” - 5” 3 1” - 5” 35” - 10” 5 5” – ½ width of goods 510”- 36” 10
Over ½ the width of goods 10
The grading is done as a piece or roll of fabric is considered good if the total penalty points,
assessed tothat piece or roll, do not exceed the length of fabric on it. If the points exceed the
length, then the rollconsidered seconds, and may be rejected.
For example if we had a roll of 50 yards of fabric and if we found defects totaling to less than 50
points,then the roll was considered good. If there were more than 50 penalty points, then
the piece wasconsidered seconds.There have been some questions raised about the fairness of
the system based on the argument that thissystem does not allow for the inspection of various
widths. If one will study the system closely, it can beseen that apparent inequity of the system is just
that, apparent although stringent.This method is still used by some manufacturers.
2.3.0.Advantages
•Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric.
•In it length of fabric is used and along the length of warp and weft defects are identified.
2.3.1.Disadvantage
•It has width limitation.
•It is difficult in practical use
2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEM
It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divided defects
into major andminor types .The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the
goods to second quality.The minor defect was one may or may not have cause garment to
second, depending on its location inthe end use item.
PENALTY POINT ASSIGNMENT OF GRANITEVILLE’78
Defect
Length
Penalty
Points9”19
”
1
8
”
2
1
8
”
2
7
”
3
27”-36 4
Page
29
The principle was established in garment cutting piece, which the short length defects (less than
9”) willnormally be removed. The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over
9”) and putless weight on 1-10” defects such as slubs .The system also suggests the
viewing distance of 9 footinstead of normal 3-foot viewing distance. The system tends to
eliminate very small defects from thetotal penalty score.
Disadvantages:
•As this system is used on cutting pieces according to my point of view it also increase the cost
of production. We should control problems before cutting.
2.5. DALLAS SYSTEM
There is also a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for
knits.According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the
garment would then betermed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a second as "more then
one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one piece 60 yards
long would be allowed tohave six defects.
Disadvantage
•It increases the cost of production as defect is located after the garment is finished.
2.6. CONCLUSION
4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry.4 point system is best as compared
toother systems since it is easy to teach and learn.4 point system usually used for knitted fabric
and 10 point system is used for woven fabric.Other systems are like Graniteville’78 and Dallas
system hassome problems such as viewing distance and they affect the cost of production as
defects are locatedafter cutting and on finish garments.
Chapter #3
SPREADING AND CUTTINGQUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM
3.1. QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADING
Theinspector should receive a swatch of lab -dip approval to evaluate the
c o r r e c t n e s s o f G S M , Construction and shade of fabric. Ensure that the lot received is for
the concerned P.O and style. Labreport for shading, color fastness, crocking, and all other tests
(spectrophotometer, delta-e, shrinkage, torque effect, pilling and performance) should be
received. Color continuity should be established by making a color continuity swatch card.
Shade blankets should be made to evaluate shading after washing. Then lots should be
segregated according to dye lot #‘s. Lots should be segregated according towidth of fabric
(according to marker width) Fabric inspection report should be received. If the spreading process
is manual and without under-bed blowers, the fabric (knit) should be relaxed at least 6 hrs beforespreading. If
auto spreading is used, ensure that the under-bed blowers are functioning properly.
3.2. SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS
Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors:
•Ply alignment: length and width
•Ply tension: stretch, slack edge
•Grain alignment: bowing
•Splicing: waste and precision;
•Damage placement: economy of placement;
•Surface direction; and
•Static electricity
3.3. Fabric Spreading Objective
The objective of spreading is
•To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the planning process.
•In the color required
•Correctly aligned as to length and width
•At correct tension
3.4. THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESS
Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:
Alignments of the plies
Every pl y must comprise at least the length and width of the marker. In addition
it should haveminimum possible extra outside those measurements. Because nature of fabric
is such that fabric widthvaries piece to piece
Elimination of the Fabric Flaws
Fabric flaws may be identifies by the supplier or by the spreader. It must be eliminated
by differentmethods.
Correct Ply direction
For fabrics designated both one way only and one way either way, the spread should contain
plies whosesurface direction is compatible with the pattern facing of the marker.
Correct Ply Tension
If the plies are spread with too slack a tension they will lie in ridges with irregular fullness. If
plies arespread in a stretched state they will maintain their tension while held in a lay, but will
contract after cutting or during sewing, thus shrinking the garment parts to a smaller size than the
pattern pieces. Thustension in the plies should be optimum.
Elimination of Static Electricity
In spreading plies of fabric containing man made fibers, friction may increase the static
electricity in thefabric. The spreader will experience in laying a ply neatly on top of the others
due to either attraction or repulsion of those plies according to how they are charged.
Method to reduce static electricity:
- Change the method of threading the fabric through the guide bars
- increase the humidity of the atmosphere in the cutting room
- arrange to earth the lay
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
A layer of glazed paper, laid glazed upside down, is normally placed at the bottom of the spread.
Thishelps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies on the material in the spread when the base plate of
a straightknife passes underneath. Also gives stability to the lay if it is to be moved on a table.
Avoidance of Fusion during cutting
Anti-fusion paper may be used in the same way as interleaving. It contains a lubricant which
lubricatesthe knife blade as it passes through the spread.
3.5. Type of Spreads
There are two types of spreads with respect to alignment:
Straight Edge
A straight-edge spread has all the ply edges on one side of the spread superposed perfectly in a
verticalline. The ply edge alignment on the other side of the spread may not be superimposed in a vertical
to thetable. This will depend on the variations in cloth width among the bolts of fabrics used in
the spread. If there is no width variation, both sides will form vertical lines to the table
surface in a straightedgespread. If the fabric width varies from bolt to bolt, or within each bolt,
only one side of a straight-edgespread will have vertical superposing. The greater the width
variation, the greater the unevenness in theno straight edge. This is also true for both sides
of a straight-edge spread, which has poor side edgealignment on the supposed straight-edge side.
Centered Edge
A centered spread is one in which the plies are spread with their longitudinal centers superposed
in a vertical line. In a perfect quality spread of this type both side edges of every ply are
equidistant from the lengthwise center of the spread. Width alignment refers to the superposing
precision at the sides of the spread. The greater the variation in width or length alignment, the
greater the waste in precision cutting since the ends and sides must be trimmed to the narrowest
and shortest plies. Precise cutting of a spread of superposed plies demands that each cut side
of a components block be a vertical line to the table surface.
3.6. General Fabric Spreading System
Before spreading some parameters must be keep in mind.
Mark the Splice Zone on the Spreading Table
Fabrics usually contain many defects. The defects in pieces which are cut into patterns
are highlyundesirable. To avoid this, the spreading operator must identify and cut out defects as
the material is being spread on the table. However, if the material is cut in the mid of the pattern,
it will lead to morematerial wastage.To avoid this, zones are defined called splice zones, where
cuts can be made by the spreading operator.Also it is also required to decide about the overlap of
the next section of cloth. Thus there are two linesin a splice zone: One line shows how far the
previous piece of cloth must extend and one line showswhere the next piece of the cloth must begin,
i.e. how much overlap is needed.Thus when a flaw is encountered, the spreader is stopped, the
operator moves back to the nearest splice point, cuts the flaw out and moves the spreader back to
overlap the cut line with the required overlap.Apart from cutting out defects, splices are also used to
achieve proper shade matching when starting anew roll of cloth.
Thus the splicing points are marked by means of a chalk or paint.
•Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine fabrics are
being spread
•Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers
Use lubricated paper for separating layers
To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics).To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics.
•Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.
How to spread
•Pull the fabric to far end position
•Position the fabric at the far end (with our without weight or pins)
•Align the ply (width on one side)
•Cut the ply after each lay
•Repeat this process from until the entire roll is spread.
•Check ply count
•Repeat a and then b to g till the decided number of ply are spread
•Mark the remnants of the rolls with length in meters and roll number and stack separately at thegiven place.
3.7. Conclusion
Spreading is the main operation where quality can be control before cutting.Spreading effects the
shapeof cut parts so lay must be in standard form before cutting.
3.8. CUTTING
Cutting is irreversible process in garments cutting, so it must be done carefully.There are two types of
cutting.
•Manual
•Automatic
3.8.1Cutting (Manual)
Ensure small parts are cut first starting from one end of the folding. Ensure marker
position is notdisturbed in the cutting process. Ensure shapes are accurate a fter cutting
(this could be achieved if correct cutting mode is followed).Ensure miss-cuts, Ragged cuts,
Narrow goods are not resulted in cutcomponents. Ensure cut-marks and notch marks are
accurate. Shaping should be done immediately if necessary.
3.8.2. Cutting (Auto)
Ensure that the vacuum suction device functions properly. Ensure that correct gauge of
polythene isused, and also ensure that the polythene is not damaged. Ensure that no foreign
matter is on the folding.Ensure that the laser indicator is correctly focused.Ensure that the blades are
timely and properly sharpened (if straight knives are used).If laser cutting is used ensure that the laser
device functions correctly. Ensure that the folding movessmoothly on the table without any obstacle.
Ensure that the cut parts and off cuts are removed from tableimmediately during the process.
Ensure that no ragged cutting or miss cutting takes place. Shaping should be done
immediately if necessary.
3.9. Cut components inspection
Check quantity in bundles for correctness (randomly all sizes) (should be in accordance
to cuttingticket/job card) randomly select 20% of the cuts covering all sizes for inspection.
Check for correctnessof specs by checking the first part, middle part, last part of all the bundles
selected for inspection.(onhard approved pattern).The total 20% selected should undergo fabric
quality and cutting quality (shade,specs, etc) inspection on all components. This inspection
should be done without disturbing thesequence of the bundles. Any defective component should be
replaced immediately with the same shade,and component cut from the balance fabric of the
same lot. If any replacement cannot be found, all parts/components in the bundles at the
same sequence count, should be taken out and job card amendedaccordingly. The components
should be discarded as rejects according to the above.
3.10. Cutting Room Functions
•Apply the following principles of marker-making:
•Proper pattern placement
•Attention to order requirements
•Cost effective fabric yield
•Accuracy and neatness
•Identify the characteristics of lay-up fabric.
•Avoid waste of lay-up fabric.
•Use various spreading techniques and equipment.
•Follow a production order form.
•Operate industrial fabric cutting machines and related equipment.
•Maintain industrial fabric cutting machines and related equipment.
3.11. Requirements of Pattern Cutting
The following items are required to enable the cutter to create clear, correct and accurate patterns.
•Good quality white pattern paper.
•Large sheets or roll of cardboard (for basic blocks)
•A Perspex square with 45° and 90° markings as well as centime measurement.
•A 15cm plastic ruler (useful for marking seam allowances)
•A pair of sharp paper cutting scissors
•A good-quality tape measure (with metal ends)
•Clear sticky tape
•A Soft rubber
•3 H or 4H pencils (no softer) and pencil sharpener
•Dress marker’s pins
•Fine felt-tip pens or hard crayons (to outline ports of draft)
•A meter stick
•A tracing wheel would also be found useful, as would a dressmaker’s stamped
•Although French curves are an easy method of drawing curved lines it is far better to achieve
theskill of freehand drawing, which comes with practices.
•Consumption Calculations
3.16. Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting
Areas near cutting tables should be clearly marked, and their access restricted should be
restricted by barriers.On motorized and automatic cutting tables the warning signals should be
fitted to indicate when blade is in motion.The machine ideally should be fitted with automatic
adjustable guards to fully cover the exposed part of the cutting blade. The five finger chain
blades should be available to all the operator working on knife and should be worn on all times
during cutting work.There should be a regular check on the condition of the light, guard, and
table fittings.Only fully trained operatives should be allowed towork on knives.The operators'
standards should be checked against the published operating practice on aregular basis and
should be corrected wherever a deviation is found. There should be an effective cleaning
system in operation that prevents build up of fluff, fly and off cuts, thus reducing fire, health
&trip hazards.
3.13.Numbering
Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #, color, P.O No.,
Serial No., No. Of garments cut, sizes.All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined
sequence
and
at
predetermined
location.Numbering
stickers
gum
strength
(Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keepingin mind the kind of fabric being cut.
3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production
After the completion of the cutting process the spread is first sorted out in respect of different
sizes andthe components of the pattern and than these sorted out components are handled
according to the production policy and the needs of the plant. The manner of folding or
superposing the plies in the bundles should be such that there is (a) minimum or no creasing,
and (b) minimum or no disarraying of the cut alignment. Any deviation from these two principles
increases the pick-up and positioning timefor the sewing operator. If the bundle must be tied
securely because of movement before the operator gets the bundle care should be taken not to
use card or other ties which may mar the surface or edge of the cut plies. Boxes are an
excellent means for bundling and transporting cut sections without the necessity of bundle
tying. This saves tying and untying time.
3.15. Panel Checking System
The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and
checking for accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements &
tolerance. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/ - tolerance as
dotted lines around the outlinemarked. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area.
It becomes easier to asses if the cut panelis within or out of tolerance. This inspection board has
to verified and approved by pattern maker beforeusage. Once the fabric is cut, they shall be
bundled and marked with inspection status. When a bundle ischecked, they shall be marked with
green as “c”.When cut panels are inspected they shall be markedwith green as “I”. All panels shall be
checked for fabric defects.
3.16. Conventional cut parts inspection System
In conventional cutting system cut parts inspection is one according to military standard system. Thereare
two types of inspection first one is 100% inspection which is carried out for less then 200 pieces &other is
20% inspection which is carried out for that lot which has more than 200 pieces.
3.17. Conclusion
Cutting is irreversible process so it must be according to given parameteres.Cutting affects the
overall Quality of a finished garment. Cut parts inspection helps in improving the quality product
for go ahead in stitching. During cut parts inspection shade, shape and other faults are removed
and on the basis of rejected pieces report a lot is hold or go ahead for stitching, so by
controlling quality at this stage isfruitful in spite of we stitch a garment and after stitching that
garment is rejected due to flaws.
Chapter #4
STITCHING QUALITY CONTROLSYSTEMS
4.1. STITCHING
It is process of interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.Generally used quality control systems
are here under.
4.2. 7-0 system
In lines 7-0 system is applied by Quality Control Inspector. The machine output undergoes 2.5
ObservedQuality Level. Not a single piece is allowed to reach the Finishing Section
unless audited by theAuditor.56 pieces are checked in eight hour shift if there are no
defects and if there are defects thenmore pieces are checked.
Quality controllers and Supervisors regularly meet and assist each other to achieve the desired
qualitylevel. Quality efficiency of each Operator, each Line and each Supervisor are recorded in
computer andtheir performances frequently monitored. The factory has in House
Washing Plant; well enough for Stone Washing, enzyme wash and Bleach Wash. Production
capacity of the Washing Unit is perfectlymatched with the Production Capacity of the Machines.
In the Finishing Section, Rotary Type of Quality Check or two-tier Checks, is Applied depending
uponthe style. In any case, No Piece is allowed to go inside the polybag unless audited by the Final Auditor.
4.2.1. Advantages
•Quality is improved
•Operator hourly capacity is checked
•Machine capacity is hourly checked
•Hourly efficiency is checked
•Quality assurance is improved
•Quick feedback
4.2.2.Disadvantages
•It is not properly implement
•Training is hard
•Measurement of garment is not checked hourly
•Fabric faults are not checked
4.3. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM
Aim
To build in quality at the point and to quickly identify problem areas in order to reduce defectsreworking
and to improve factory efficiency.
Process
The traffic signal system is based on three lights red, amber and green. The lights are used to symbolizethe
quality status at the operation and make supervisor aware of where problems are occurring and givethe in
line controllers an idea where they have to spend more time.Green GoodAmber Isolated defects foundRed
Recurring defects or major defects foundIn line QC has to check a minimum of 10 piece each visit to the
work station. The In line controller willmonitor the inspection and record it. The traffic lights must work in
sequence unless the frequency of defects it too high.
If the inspector finds.
L i n e supervisor/ManagerOperatorshown
fromsupervisormechaniccalled.T
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Sequence of Colors1
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check C o l o r T i m e 2
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check Color0faultG r e e n 1 hourN o n e G r e e n E t c . . 1faultA m b
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Page
44
The In line inspector will then determine where their time is most needed. After the inspector hascompleted
all checks in line then they must walk to the front of the line check who is on amber and redlights and then
return to them. This will ensure that the correct number of checks are done.
4.3.1. Advantages
•Quality is build at needle point
•Fault is quickly identified
•Defects reworking reduce
•Improve overall efficiency
4.3.2. Disadvatages
•It is costly as we install it
• Not easy for workers to understand
4.4. Conventional Quality Control System
In this system in line quality inspector check the garments after each hour the output of a operator according
to military standard system and faults are identified. With the help of standard card inspector take the sample
and check that according to requirement.
4.5. Random Inspection System:
This system is old system and used at local level in small factories. QC person check the output of aoperator
by taking random ly sample size and check the quality parameters.
4.6. GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHINGDEPARTMENT
Feeding/Loading System
In the process of feeding/Loading the feeder/loader should ensure that the sequences in the
bundles arenot disturbed.
At the time of feeding/Loading any conspicuous defect should be discarded or replaced
with part of same shade.
The feeding/Loading quantity should be counted and ensured that it is correct according
to quantitymentioned in the bundle.
On the spot defect recovery system
•All these four systems will be working together at the time of implementation.
•All machines will be having green flags at starting time.
•The rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector should randomly select seven pieces. From each bundle, of
alloperations.
•The 7 pieces should pass at (0) zero defects. If a single defect is found the total bundle
fails(Rejected).
•Then the green flag is replaced by a yellow flag. The first part of the 5 part ticket is issued to
themachine operator at this time.
•Operator who stitched the bundle will have to inspect the full bundle for faults in his
operation,and rectify defects immediately (on the spot) up to specification or discard the
defective pieces,what ever appropriate.
•If the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector identifies the same mistake for the second time (in
sameoperator) the yellow flag is replaced by red flag and second part of the 5 part ticket is issued.
Theoperator has to fallow the same procedure as before. Now the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector
willdo a follow up of inspections of 3 consecutive bundles of the same operator, by
issuing the balance 3 follow up tickets (one at a time).If the 3 follow up inspection results
passes, the greenflag is re-installed. If any of the follow up inspection results fails, the 3 follow
up re-starts fromthat point.
•The rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector should inspect critical operations every hour. Other
operationscould be confined to an inspection of once, twice or thrice according to
the criticalit y of occurrence of faults.
Inspection of every 5th piece of operation by the operator
The operator should inspect his part of operation, on every 5th piece to determine any faulty stitching.
End –line Inspection (100% inside-out)
All pieces that complete all operation should be checked inside out by end line inspectors.
4.7. Conclusion
Over all according to our observation 7-0 system is most suitable to our industry because it is easy
toimplement and results are better than other systems .Traffic signal system is also a good system but it
iscostly and other system s have there own importance but regarding to quality 7-0 system is mosteffective
as quick feedback is get by this system efficiency and quality is improved by this system.
Chapter#5
SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTIONMETHODS
5.1. Cutting
The cut bundles received from cutting department are inspected 100% for visual defects such as
thefollowing:
1.Knitting defects such as holes, barre, needle line, yarn shade variation, repeat difference etc.
2.Processing defects such as water marks component shading, compactor shoe marks, dead
cottonslubs etc.
3.Mis-cuts, improper notching etc.
4.The front and back panel are matched as per the requirement of the buyer.
5.In case of design/repeats of parts same should match.
6.Sampling Quantity:
V
I
0
M
o
i
n
0
e
u
s
s
%
a
t
s
u
p
u
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1
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0
t
n
i
o
t
p
i
e
c
C
e
n
h
s
e
1
c
k
2
In case of any variation in the above parameters, the complete bundle is returned to the cuttingdepartment
for correction/replacement.
Acceptance Standard:
Bundle
Size
Defects
allowedU
p
t
o
5
P
i
e
c
e
s
0
6
t
o
1
0
p
i
e
c
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s
1
1
1
t
o
1
5
p
i
e
c
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2
1
6
t
o
2
0
p
i
e
c
e
s
3
M
o
r
e
t
h
a
n
2
0
p
i
e
c
e
s
4
Where it is possible to change the defective part by replacement, the quality inspector checks theexchanged
part for shade variation, and measurement and ensure to put the same number that of thedamaged part.
Reporting defects Rate:
Defects rate in cutting= The total defects found / No of bundle checked
5.2.Sewing
The QA follows the parameters stated below
1.Fabric pattern, design, weight etc.
2.Stitch details
3.Placement accessories and trims
4.Folding and packing details
5.2.1.Potential Major faults
1.Any surface hole or weakening defects which could develop into a hole
2.Visible flaws
3.Shading within the garment
4 . D ye s p o t s , m i s p r i n t s
5.Cuts and tears
6.Non matching checks and stripes
7.Bowing of fabric, if it effects the appearance of the garment
8.Spots or stains
9.Deviation in measurement specs more than the given tolerance
10.Twisted or puckered seam
11.Broken stitches or open seam
12.Seams not bar tacked unless covered by another seam
13.Irregular or uneven top stitching and contrast stitching
14.Run-off in top stitching in visible areas.
15.Incorrect stitch counts
16.Incorrect seam allowance
17.Twisted hems and uneven hems
18.Missing bar tack
19.Uneven fronts, sleeves and other symmetric components
20.Poorly done and objectionable mending.
21.Broken/skip stitch
5.2.2.Potential minor faults.
1 . R e m o v a b l e s t a i n s 2.All other temporary defects other than listed above.
In-line quality audit
The quality inspector conducts in-line quality audit as per the steps mentioned below:
1.Pick up one bundle after any operation at random
2.Check the quality level of that particular operation
3.Repeat this procedure for minimum of 3 times of the same operation within a day
In case some type of rejection is encountered repeatedly, production is held temporarily until
correctiveaction is ensured by line supervisor.
End of the line quality
Quality inspector station at the end of all sewing operation and check the following:
1.Stitch formation
2.Component shade variation
3.Sewing alterations and variations
4.Damaged parts
5.Size label jumping
6.Missed sewing operation
7.Broad measurement specification
Pilot run
Depending on the size of the order, pilot run is carried out. All the pieces are visually inspected
andmeasurement for any quality defects. The sample sizes for pilots runs are as follows.
O
r
d
e
r
Q
u
a
n
t
i
t
y
P
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f
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3
0
0
0
p
c
s
2
5
p
c
s
3
0
0
1
t
o
6
0
0
0
p
c
s
4
0
p
c
s
6
0
0
1
t
o
9
0
0
0
p
c
s
6
0
p
c
s
9
1
p
1
0
0
5
c
5
p
0
0
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,
c
1
0
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0
s
t
0
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0
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0
c
s
v
p
7
o
5
e
c
s
1
0
Any major deviation in measurement or style is incorporated in the pattern/sewing line before the
bulk production start.
5.3. Embroidery
The QA ensure quality through sample embroidery sew-out. Sample of a garment along with placement
details is made before going in to mass production, parameters are strictly followed to ensure quality
embroidery
Parameters
1.Right shade of threads
2.Positioning of the embroidery
3.Coverage, stitch density is as per the order
4.Embroidery alignment
5.Fraying of thread
6.Clarity in the design as per original
7.Right tension of the threads
8.Holes due to needle
9.Skip/missed threads
10.Shade variation within the box of threadThe pilot quantity of strike off.
Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off Up to 2000pcs
t
o
5
0
0
0
p
c
s
2
5
p
0
1
8
0
0
0
p
c
s
3
5
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1
1
5
0
0
0
p
c
s
5
0
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1
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0
0
0
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6
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15pcs2
0
0
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5
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s
s
8
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s
A
p
c
s
1
t
b
o
0
o
The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk
production.
5.4. Printing
The QA ensures that an approved strike off of the print with the shade card giving the pantonereferences
number. Is available with the Department. Sample of the garment along with the placementdetails must be
available. Before starting bulk production, pilot strike off of using the actual garment/panel is taken and
inspected for the following quality.
Parameters
1.Right shade of colors
2.Positioning of the prin
t3 . P r o p e r r e g i s t r a t i o n
4.Print alignment
5.Clarity in the design as per original
6.Properly cured surface
7 . S t a i n s 8.Skew ness of print
The pilot quantity of strike off .
Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off Up to 2000pcs
t
o
5
0
0
0
p
c
s
2
5
p
0
1
8
0
0
0
p
c
s
3
5
p
1
1
5
0
0
0
p
c
s
5
0
p
Above 15000pcs 60pcs
15pcs2
0
0
c
s
5
c
s
8
0
t
0
1
t
c
o
0
o
s
The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk
production.
5.5. Finishing and packaging
The purpose of pressing a knit/woven fabric product is to eliminate the wrinkle and yield originalfeeling.
The following points are ensure by the QA inspector while ironing is in process:
1.Knit product must be iron finished at proper temp
2.The system press must have Teflon shoe and must be cleaned periodically
3.Areas such as collar, embroidery, printing, etc. should not be hard ironed.
4.No small wrinkles, defective luster and iron-pressed marks should be observed on the surface
5.The size of the iron finished product must conform to order specification
6.The garment must be allowed to be cooled for at least 1 hour before putting in poly bag.
7.The ironing table top cloth must have marking for horizontal and vertical markings matching
theoutline size of the garment.
Packing is an important aspect of a given garment. The following aspects are checked by the inspector:
1.The price ticket, hangtag, bar code stickers.
2.The right size of the poly bag should be used for the garment
3.After the garment is inserted in the poly bag, it should not be sloppy or too tight.
4.The ratio of pre-packs and qualities per carton must be checked randomly.
5.The garment through the poly bag must be visually symmetric
6.All carton markings must conform to the order requirement
5.6. Final Audit
The purpose of the final, audit is to establish the quality level of the final pieces goods before it leavesthe
factory.
The QA manager has to conduct a final quality audit of the packed goods and this has to done at two stages:
1.Once 50% of the shipment is packed
2.Other when 100% of the shipment is packed
In case there is any quality problem at the above stages, the packed goods have to be screened for the
specific quality aspects
Once corrected the above procedure has to be repeated again.
5.7. Clipping Inspection
Clipping (Trimming of Thread) should be inspected for cut stitches and cut holes. This
is a 100%inspection.
5.8. Final inspection
Garment inspection is a vital process of quality control for measuring the quality of the
product,comparing with requirements and acting on the variations.There are three types of final inspection
•Step wise inspection
•Batch inspection
•100% inspection
Stepwise inspection
Stepwise inspection has two types one is final inspection and other is super final inspection. In
finalinspection we sort out sewing faults and in super final inspection we check specs, shade and
shape of the garment.
Disadvantage
•It is time consuming
•Man power increased
Batch inspection
In it a team of final inspectors check the pieces and make batch for example a batch is consist of
100garments from those batches randomly some batches are inspect by auditor and pass, fail
report is madeon type of fault and occurrence of faults.
100% Inspection
Once the garment has been fully assembled, then it must pass though a final inspection. In the
finalinspection, 100% of the garments manufactured are checked for defects. Any defects found will
bereturned to the original operator for repair. Inspectors are expected to not only check for
defects, but arealso required to cut threads as they see necessary.
•Each inspector should have his/her own pair of scissors. These should always be used to cutlong threads.
There is no tolerance for repairs caused by pulling threads instead of cutting them.
•Each inspector should be given a bag of her own number. The numbers are to be inserted intoone of the
front pockets. This way they are easy to locate incase the identity of the inspector inneeded. There is no
tolerance for an inspector who refuses to put numbers into the pockets.
•Inspectors are expected to follow inspection procedures to ensure that the entire garment has been
inspected
.
Inspection Procedures:
•Garments should enter the End of Line inspection process inside out.
•Begin with the front of the garment and work down and to the back. Establishing a routine is themost
effective way to ensure that no operations are missed.
•All long threads should be cut as seams are being checked for defects.
•The garment should then be turned outside in.
•All exterior threads should be clipped.
•Pockets, tacks, and any fabric defects should be checked. Any defects found should be markedwith red
tape and set aside for repairs.
•Check the zipper to ensure that it zips and unzips freely.
•Check the buttons and button holes. Make sure they line up and are functional.
•Inseam and waist should be measured. Check measurement results against the label to be surethat the
garment is the same size as stated on the label.
•After inspection and thread trimming, the inspector’s number should be placed in the pocket and the
garment should be neatly stacked.
•The stacks should be picked up by the End of Line auditor. He will then check the garments once more.
(This is a more general check to ensure that inspectors are effectively inspecting their garments.)
•Once this last audit is done, the garments can be stacked and taken to pressing.
Inspection is Conducted to evaluate the First passed yield (FPY).That is the first time past
percentage,on an hourly basis.
End Line Audit Report
2.5
AQL
L i n e H
a s o n
I m p r o
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v
Inspect
7
Reject
u r A c c e p t R
M i n o r
e m e n t s
Auditor
on
e j e
D e
1
c t
f e
Defect
R e
c t s
Name:___
_____________________________________ Date:____________________
The defects identified are segregated into 3 main categories.
•Rafu
•Stain
•Alteration
A) Rafu
Rafu is minor fabric faults which are mend-able.
Very Important Factors
•Darning is not accepted on body.
•Operational darning could be accepted. If it is not conspicuous.
•Any fabric fault mended by Knitting needle (Knitted) and not prominent to the naked eye
could be accepted.
•Any defect that is not according to the above factors should be discarded as totally
rejecteditems.
B) Stain
•If any dust spot, oil spot or any other stain spot could be removed by either stain removers
or light washing, without, effecting the color, appearance, hand feel, and specs could beaccepted.
•Any slight patch dispersed as a result of the above process, should be discarded as a reject.
C) Alteration
•If any sewing defect could be recovered by re-work, without effecting seams or body
qualitystandards, it is acceptable.
•If the reworking results are miss-shape, specs variation, miss alignment, or any other defect
the product should be discarded as a reject.
•Any uncut thread or loose thread should be taken care of before OK garments passed
to thefolding stage.
5.9. Pressing Inspection
Pressing tables should be marked with length and breadth of all sizes of garments according to
Buyersspecifications.Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate.
•Correctness of shape of Neck/Shoulder/Sleeve/ Side Seam/ bottom hem in uppers; and shape ofwaist/ Hip/ Side Seam/ inseam/ leg opening in bottoms.
• No shiny marks /crease marks on seams
• No Excessive moisture by steam.
• No Color fading
• No Dust marks/Stain marks/oil marks
•Pressing as required.
5.10. SPECS INSPECTION
100% of garments should undergo critical specs inspection. (For Tops -Body length,
Chest, Sleevelength, neck, arm hole and, shoulder) (For Bottoms-Side seam, inseam, hip,waist
and leg opening) .Allother measurements as defined by the particular buyer should undergo
random specs inspection at least10% of the total quantity. Any garment that is not within
the specified tolerance limit should bediscarded as a rejected item..Please note this does not mean
that all garments should be within tolerance.This tolerance limit is allowed to accommodate any human error
which rearly occurs.
5.11. Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack)
The inspector should ensure that there is no dust, fluff or loose thread in the
presentation of thegarments. Appearance should be attractive and eye catching. The folding
should be even and balanced,and according to the specifications of folding. The correctness in
the position of label, accurate shapeafter folding, not looking miss-aligned after folding and all
other factors pertaining to folding should be given more emphasis. Correctness of labels,
stickers, Tags or any other attachments and aids of attachments should be ensured.
Correctness of poly bags, measurements of poly bags, marks and numbers an poly bags,
sealing of poly bags, poly bag mouth, should be ensured. Correctness of size andsticker or any
other accessories on poly bag should be ensured. Correctness of Hangers and sizes, size
of hanger quality of hangers, printing, emboss, carvings, alignment, packing
performance should be ensured.
5.12. Packing inspection
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundledand
packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which isseen from
outside the cartoon easily. The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placedin the dispatch
department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.
There is no margin for any packing error. Packing should be 100% correct. Correctness of
Quantity inCTNS should be ensured. Correctness of sizes in CTNS should be ensured.
Correctness of pre-packs,ratio packs, catalogue packs, mix packs (if allowed) should be ensured.
Correctness of style and P.Oshould be ensured. Correctness of color and size assortments should be
ensured.CTNS size, CTN marksand numbers, CTN quality, packing capability, No of plies, shade, sealing
ability, hanger pack capability...etc. should be ensured. Ensure that security slip (white) is fixed while sealing
CTNS withinspector signature, Id number, unit number, and P.O. code Ensure that CTN tape/adhesive
tape/Gumtape sealing tape adheres properly to CTN without bubbling or detaching. Ensure that
CTNS look attractive, clean, without bulking, un-smashed, without damage, without excessive CTN tape
protrudingat the corners and stackable without disturbance. Ensure the correction of CTN stickers (ASN,
DTS,OCR, ETC) and undamaged stickers are fixed.
5.13. Conclusion
By final inspection of garments at all stages like clipping, final inspection, pressing and packing wehave full
confidence on our shipment.
References
From Websites:
http://www.textileguides.com/garments-patternhttp://www.cutplan.com/nestplan-nesting-partsmaterial.htmhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2007_12_01_archive.htmlhttp://articles.textilecl
ass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-ofscissor/http://www.wmolaw.com/files/The_8_Dimensions_of_Quality.pdf http://lssacademy.com
/2008/05/28/8-dimensions-ofquality/http://www.apparelkey.com/ApparelKey/Document/Cate2/2.3.6.4/casestudy3prabirjana.pdf?TABLENAME=Cate2&PARENTNODE=2.3.6.4http://www.accordiausa.com/ca
t-24-1- 17/Product_Quality_Inspection.htm
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-articlehttp://articles.textileclass.com/garmentsmanufacturing-sequence/http://www.tpingzhi.asp.htm
From Persons:
Mr.Sohail from fabric dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Subasinghe from cutting dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Awais from PPC dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Ali from Stitching dept. Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad.
Mr.Rasika
from
M i l l Faisalabad.
quality
control
dept.
Chenab
Textile
M r . S a j i d / M r . Q a m m e r f r o m p r e s s i n g & f o l d i n g d e p t . C h e n a b Textile Mill
Faisalabad.