Drafting and Sewing a Maxi Skirt
From http://madmim.com/drafting-and-sewing-a-maxi-skirt-stretch-yourself/
It’s not hard to see why maxi skirts and dresses have infiltrated fashion over the last couple of years, and
are still a staple and going strong–they are comfortable, functional, and versatile. And if you ask me, the
knit fabric variety are all of those things to the MAX (ee). They shine in all seasons, and are a dream to
whip up. They are so simple and basic, and a great first knit sewing project. Today I’ll show you how to
draft your own pattern (it’s easy!) and construct an a-line and gathered maxi (the most common
styles). Hop on over to Miranda‘s to learn how to draft and construct leggings, another wardrobe staple!
Let’s start with the a-line maxi, and you’ll need to take a few quick measurements. Before you do, let’s talk
a bit about ease. Ease is the space between the garment and your body; without added ease, this pattern
will be fitted at the waist and hips because the measurements of the skirt will equal your body
measurements. The skirt I made has no ease added, but if you want a little more room, then you’ll need to
add some ease—I suggest 1-2 inches. For this skirt you would only add it to the waist and the hip
measurements, and I strongly suggest just the hip IF you decide to add ease. Always add it in before you
divide (i.e. hip measurement plus 2” ease divided by 4).
1. Waist to desired length: distance
between the waist and desired
length.
2. Waist to hip: distance between the
waist and hip.
3. Quarter waist: true waist plus
optional ease, divided by 4.
4. Quarter hip: fullest part of your
bum plus optional ease, divided by
4.
5. Quarter hip measurement plus 810″, depending on how flared you
want you skirt. TIP: Slight
fullness would be hip
measurement X 1.5, medium
fullness would be hip
measurement X 2, and
considerable fullness would be
hip measurement X 3.
Considering that guide, my
quarter hip measurement plus 8 equals medium fullness. Another way to determine this is to
lay out a tape measure and then to step into the center of it in order to visualize what the
fullness looks like.
A-Line Maxi Skirt
Draft the Pattern:
Cut a piece of paper that is plenty longer than your waist to desired length measurement (give yourself at
least 6”). One edge needs to be completely straight, as it will become your center front and fold line.
1. Starting a couple of inches from the top, measure down the length of number 1 and mark. This is
your Center Front as well as as the length of your maxi skirt.
2. Starting back at the top again and measure down the length of number 2 and mark. This will be your
hip point.
3. Once again from the top, measure out perpendicularly your quarter waist (number 3).
4. At your previously marked hip point, measure out perpendicularly your quarter hip (number 4).
5. To finish plotting, start at the bottom of the CF line and measure out perpendicularly the quarter
width of your bottom hem (number 5).
6. Now to connect the dots by starting a 1/2 down from your CF line, and drawing a gentle curve that
ends at the point of line 3.
7. From there you’ll continue down with another gentle curve to the end point of line 4.
8. Complete your side seam by continuing with an almost straight line (very slightly curved towards the
top) until your reach about 3/4′s of an inch above line 5.
9. Finish the pattern by drawing another very gentle curve to meet with the CF point.
Add a 1/4″ seam allowance everywhere except the bottom hem where you’ll add 5/8″ for turning (more or
less depending on your planned hemming).
Cut and construct:
1. Cut 2 (front and back skirt pieces) from fabric, making sure that your width has the greatest degree
of stretch.
2. Serge/sew the side seams together. Check out Miranda’s construction a knit tee post for tips on
construction stitches for both a sewing machine and serger.
3. Cut a rectangle of fabric for the waistband that has a width that is yourwaist measurement minus
2″ (negative ease for a snug fit), and a length that is your desired waistband thickness times
2 and plus 1/4″ seam allowance. Fold in half widthwise, right sides together, and serge/sew side
seam. Just a note, I made both of my bands smaller because I planned on belting my skirts. For a
true yoga waistband you’ll want a length of about 10 inches, which folded over will be about a 5 inch
band that hug your hips.
4. Fold in half lengthwise now WST, encasing the seam allowance within the band. Be sure to try your
band on at this point to ensure a nice snug fit (take note that it will likely stretch out a bit during
sewing).
5. Fit the waistband over the right side of your skirt, pin–matching side seams, and serge/sew. Now flip up
the band, finish the bottom hem, and you’re ready to rock.
Gathered Maxi Skirt
Cut and construct:
1. Cut a large rectangle that has
the width of your waist
measurement times 1.5, and is
your desired length long plus a
5/8″ for turning. Fold it in half
widthwise, and serge/sew the
side seam.
2. Gather the top edge using
your preferred gathering
method. I like to zig zag
over cording or string, and
then cinch/gather by pulling
the string tight. This is SO
much easier than two rows of
basting threads, and it
produces nice, even gathers. I
also love to gather using the
serger, it’s also much faster
and accurate then the double
row basting method. Gather it
to your waist circumference (doesn’t have to be exact yet).
3. Cut another rectangle that is the width of your waist circumference minus 2″, and the length of your
desired waistband thickness times 2 plus a 1/4″ seam allowance. Fold in half widthwise and RST,
and sew/serge. Then fold again lengthwise, encasing the side seam within the waistband. Try out
and check fit; remember that it will likely stretch a small amount during sewing, so you want it fairly
snug.
4. Gather your skirt top to match the circumference of your waistband and pin matching side seams,
raw edges and make sure it’s RST.
5. Serge/sew. If you used the cord gathering method I suggest first basting, then removing the cord
before you serge/sew. Flip waistband up, hem bottom edge and wear!