COMMUNITY GARDENS OF HENRY COUNTY VOLUNTEER
NEWSLETTER
Issue 2
Community
Gardens of
Henry County
Volunteer Newsletter
MARCH
2014
Executive Director’s Message
By
Glenda Garris
WELCOME
Dear Volunteers –
And winter weather persists
because technically it is still
winter. But be that as it is, we
already have been busy working
in the gardens when the weather
permitted. Since our last
newsletter we have been
spreading new mulch on
walkways and spraying weeds at
Windy Hill and Wesley Way, and
pruning fruit trees, shrubs, vines
and roses at Heritage.
Soil samples from each garden
will be pulled this month and
submitted for analysis to ensure
good pH for growing vegetables,
and gardeners’ seeds will be
ordered for planting in April when
the soil temperature is closer to
60 degrees.
IN THIS ISSUE
All this “behind the scenes” work
is necessary preparation for
spring gardening which is where
you come in… so please
remember to mark your calendars
for the upcoming clean up and
planting days scheduled. Lunch
will be provided for all volunteers
We need your help and look
forward to working with each one
of you. You are the wind
beneath our wings!

Executive Director’s
Message

To Be A Volunteer

Garden Humor

Membership

Gardening Tips

Meetings and Events
Glenda Garris
Next Volunteer Meeting Date:
Saturday, May 17, 2014 @ 2:00pm
COMMUNITY GARDENS OF HENRY COUNTY VOLUNTEER
NEWSLETTER | Issue 2
TO BE A VOLUNTEER
it takes...
Generosity, a willingness to give
your time to others.
WATERMELONS AND
PEPPERS FROM
WESLEY WAY
2
to our newest members:
Kathleen Jimenez
Lauren Ogilvie
Trebbe Shaw
Melissa St. Clair
Lindsey Windsor
Adrianna Fluker
Sharee Stephen
Cynthia Vega
Casey Wang
Darius Roberts
Understanding, because their
lives might be very different from
your own.
Empathy, an ability to put
yourself in someone else's shoes
and feel what they must feel.
Compassion, to truly care about
making someone else's life
better.
Patience, because the process
doesn't always go as smoothly as
it might.
Gardening Tips
If you grew up in the South, then you
will know what I mean when I say
“get your white bread and
mayonnaise ready! “ It’s almost
tomato planting time and I can
already taste that delicious red, juicy
tomato on my white sandwich bread
with lots of mayonnaise and salt and
pepper. Doesn’t the thought make
you want to run right out and get
started on your tomato bed?
Dedication, to stick with the
project and see it through.
You've shown these qualities and
so much more, so thank you for
all that you do.
Garden Humor
Selecting Tomato Plants
CABBAGE FROM
WINDY HILL
What do you get if you divide the
circumference of a pumpkin by its
diameter? Answer: Pumpkin pi.
What does everyone have on
their face? Answer: Tulips
What do you call a stolen yam?
Answer: A hot potato.
It’s a little early yet for planting
outside, but we can start thinking
about what tomato varieties to put
in our gardens or patio pots. And we
all have our favorites! Some of mine
are Big Boy, Better Boy, Big Beef and
Jet Star. Determinant varieties are
those that grow to a point, set fruit
and then decline. Most of the early
varieties are determinant and will
not produce for the entire summer. I
prefer the in-determinant tomato
varieties because they will generally
produce fruit until the frost;
however, the plant also grows large
and will need to be properly
supported and pruned as the season
COMMUNITY GARDENS OF HENRY COUNTY VOLUNTEER
NEWSLETTER | Issue 2
progresses. Fusarium and
verticillium wilt are common tomato
diseases. When buying transplants,
look for plants that are resistant to
these two diseases; they are labeled
VF. If you see plants labeled VFN it
means the plant is resistant to
verticillium, fusarium and
nematodes; VFNT includes
resistance to tobacco mosaic disease
Planting and Tending
Tomato Plants
Tomatoes love well drained soil with
lots of organic matter. The pH
should range between 6.0 to 6.5. A
soil test can help you determine the
pH of your soil and provide
recommendations for adding
dolomitic lime and other nutrients.
Our southern soil is often too acidic
and will need the addition of lime.
However, it takes a while for the lime
to change the soil pH so it should be
added in the fall for best results.
And of course, you will need to add
fertilizers as indicated from your soil
analysis two to three days before
planting. If you did not have a soil
test, generally1-1/2 lbs of fertilizer
like 10-10-10 per 100 square feet can
be applied. Tomatoes are heavy
feeders so remember to fertilize
again every three weeks as a side
dress once tomatoes form on the
plant and until you have harvested
all the tomatoes.
Always plant your tomatoes in full
sun about 3 feet apart so there is
good air circulation. And plant them
deep – up to the first set of true
leaves on the plant. It also is a good
idea to rotate the planting sites
every year. You should add 2” to 3”
of mulch to your plants. Newspapers
may be used around the tomatoes as
soon as planted with a layer or
mulch, pine straw or hay applied on
top. Mulching helps to retain
moisture and can reduce common
diseases. When it comes to watering
-- tomatoes need an inch or so of
water at least once a week. Try not
to top water the foliage but water
evenly at the base of the plant or use
a drip system to help prevent
disease.
You will need to support your
tomato plants to keep them off the
ground. I prefer staking and tying
tomatoes best but be careful not to
damage the plant when doing so.
Personally, I do not care for tomato
cages. My experience has been that
when your plant becomes large and
heavy with fruit, the cages can bend
and do not always provide good
support. Trying to reuse tomato
cages is my worst nightmare
because it is difficult to straighten
them out again! My preference is to
use stakes with string or strips of
cloth.
Blossom End Rot
Blossom End Rot can be the downfall
of many a tomato crop. End rot can
be caused from overwatering and
inadequate calcium. A pH or 6.0 to
6.5, properly liming your soil and
watering only an inch to 1-1/2 inches
a week can help prevent this
problem. If it does occur, you can
treat it by maintaining consistent
moisture levels and adding about 4
Tbsps. of calcium chloride per gallon
of water every week until corrected.
You also can purchase over- thecounter remedies at your garden
supply store.
Starting Seeds Indoors
If we are really ambitious, seeds can
be started now for transplanting in
mid to late April depending on the
frost date. Tomatoes like warm soil
(60 degrees) so the outside
temperature should be about 65 to
75 degrees daytime and no cooler
than 55 degrees at night. Several of
3
our community gardeners have
already started their tomato seeds
inside. If you do this, make certain
the plants have plenty of good
southern sunlight so you don’t grow
tall leggy transplants. Artificial light
will be necessary if there is not
sufficient sunlight. Your plants will
need to be hardened off a few weeks
before planting in the garden.
Expose your plants by placing them
outdoors. Increase the length of
exposure each day. Remember to
bring plants in if there is the
possibility of frost.
***
Question:
What’s the difference between a
determinant and in-determinant
tomato plant?
Answer:
Determinant varieties are those that
grow to a point, set fruit and then
decline. Most of the early varieties
are determinant and will not produce
for the entire summer. I prefer the
in-determinant tomato varieties
because they will generally produce
fruit until the frost.
WE VALUE YOUR OPINION!
TELL US WHAT YOU THINK!
COMMUNITY GARDENS OF HENRY COUNTY VOLUNTEER
NEWSLETTER
Issue 2
Upcoming Meetings and Events
Garden Cleanup Days
March 22nd (Saturday)
Wesley Way
9:00am
Garden Plant Days
April 10th (Thursday)
Windy Hill
9:00am
April 12th (Saturday)
Wesley Way
9:00am
April 15th (Tuesday)
Heritage Park
9:00am
Community Gardens of Henry County, P. O. Box 3248, McDonough, GA 30253
Phone: 770-954-0000 or 770-337-6670
Email: communitygardens@bellsouth.net Website: www.henrygardens.com
Copyright 2014