Shampoo
How to formulate solutions
Lesson Topics
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Shampoo Market Overview
Consumer Problems
Surfactant Science
Formulating a shampoo
Testing
Lesson Objectives
• Shampoo Market Overview
– Introduce the shampoo market
• Consumer Problems
– Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix
• Surfactant Science
– Discuss surfactant properties
– How they are relevant to cosmetics
• Formulating a solution
– Dissect a shampoo formula
– Explaining what ingredients are used and why
• Testing
– Explain how to test a shampoo
Shampoo
Shampoos
• Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair
and leave it a more manageable state
• Solutions - one of the simplest types of
cosmetic formulas
Shampoo Market
• Overall Market
– Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion
worldwide
– Amount of money spent in US on
Shampoo/conditioner
• $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)*
*Does not include Walmart
US Top Brands
BRAND
$ MARKET SHARE
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Pantene – P&G
Head & Shoulders – P&G
Herbal Essences – P&G
Suave - Unilever
Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal
Tresemme – Alberto Culver
Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal
L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal
Dove - Unilever
Private Label
John Frieda - Kao
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
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7.6
7.5
6.9
6.6
4.0
3.9
3.8
3.3
3.3
3.2
US Top Brands
BRAND
Units sold (millions)
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Suave - Unilever
Pantene – P&G
VO5 – Alberto Culver
Herbal Essences – P&G
Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal
Head & Shoulders – P&G
L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal
Tresemme – Alberto Culver
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
20.9
19.5
11.8
11.5
10.6
7.5
5.4
5.2
Shampoo Market
• Types of shampoo (marketing)
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Normal
Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)
Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)
Strengthening
Curl
2 in 1
Color treated
Color Enhancing
Baby (tear-free)
Natural
Shampoo Market
• Specialty
– Anti-dandruff
– Anti-lice
– Hair loss treatments
• Significantly Different
– Powdered shampoos
– No-rinse shampoo
– Co-washing
Consumer Problems
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Clean hair / oil removal
Moisturize
Easier to comb
Prevent frizz
Shine
Volume
Medicated
– Anti-dandruff
– Anti-lice
– Hair loss
Addressing the problems
Problem
• Clean hair / oil removal
• Moisturize
• Easier to comb
• Prevent frizz
• Shine
• Volume
• Medicated
– Anti-dandruff
– Anti-lice
– Hair loss
Technology
• Surfactants
• Conditioning agents
– Anti-dandruff agents
– Acaracides
– Minoxidyl
Surfactant Science
Surfactants
• Defined
– Molecules compatible with water & oil
– Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic = Lipophobic
Hydrophobic = Lipophilic
Surfactant in solution
• Reduces surface tension
• Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)
• Forms micelles to suspend particles
Surfactant
• Typical surfactant mixture
– Surfactant is mixed with oil
– Lipophilic tails orient with oil
– Polar heads orient with water
– Micelles are created
• Micelle formation
• Critical Micelle Concentration
Surfactant Solutions
• Depending on concentration different
structures are formed
• Simple shampoos are basically surfactant
solutions (no oils)
Surfactant Structures
Surfactant Functions
• Key in Shampoos
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Cleaning / Detergency
Wetting
Dispersing
Foaming
Thickening
Conditioning
• Other functions
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Emulsification
Solubilization
Penetration enhancement
Antimicrobial activity
Opacification
Detergency
• Two types of “dirt” in hair
– Solid particulate
– Oily deposits
• Solid particulates
– From pollution, hair products
– Adhere via Van der Waals forces
– Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of
surface
Detergency
• How surfactants remove liquids
– Remove dirt & grease from surfaces
– Mechanism
• Surfactant orients along oil/water interface
• This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution
• Rinse water removes the oil micelle
Wetting
• Breaks down the inherent surface tension
of water
• Water with surfactant can spread better on
the hair
Without Surfactant
With Surfactant
Dispersing
• Particles are suspended in the shampoo /
water solution
• They are removed upon rinsing
Foaming
• Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid
medium
• Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers
of liquid films
• Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal
of dirt
– Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really
mean the product cleans better
Thickening
• Viscosity of surfactant solution can be
affected by
– Concentration of surfactant
– Salt concentration
– pH
Types of Surfactants
• Anionic
– Negatively charged
• Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)
– capable of both positive & negative charges
• Cationic
– Positively charged
• Nonionic
– No charge
Anionic Surfactants
• These are the primary shampoo
surfactants
• Alkyl Sulfates
– Examples - SLS
• Alkyl Ether Sulfates
– Example – ALES
• Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates
– Examples
Anionic Surfactants
• Other types
– Sulfosuccinates
– Alkylbenzene Sulfonates
– Acyl Methyltaurates
– Acyl Sarcosinates
– Acyl Isethionates
– Acyl Polypeptide Condensates
– Monoglyceride Sulfates
– Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates
Anionics
• Why use them?
– Excellent detergency
– Relatively inexpensive
– Good foaming
– Highly stable
• Drawbacks
– Can be irritating
– Drying to hair
Amphoteric Surfactants
• Can have a positive or negative charge
depending on the pH of the solution
• Zwitterionic
• Types
– Cocamidopropyl Betaine
– Cocoamphopropionate
– Sodium Lauraminopropionate
Amphoteric Surfactants
• Why use them?
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Good Detergency
Less Irritating than anionics
Helps thicken system
Helps improve foam
• Drawbacks
– More expensive
– Do not foam well enough on their own
Non Ionic Surfactants
• Surfactant molecules with no charge
• Types
– Fatty Alkanolamides
• Lauramide DEA
• Cocamide DEA
– Amine Oxides
• Lauramine Oxide
• Stearamine Oxide
Non Ionic Surfactants
• Why use them?
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Foam enhancer
Reduce irritation
Increase viscosity
Conditioning effect
Anti-static effect
Solubilize fragrances
Baby Shampoos
• PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
• Drawbacks
– Safety issues
– More expensive
– Do not foam well on their own
Cationics
• Positively charged surfactant molecules
• Types
– Cetrimonium Chloride
– Stearylalkonium Chloride
• Not used for shampoos
– Don’t clean as well
– Don’t rinse as well
– Don’t foam as well
Shampoo Formulations
Shampoo Characteristics
• Aesthetics
– Appearance
• Clear
• Pearlized
– Thickness (Viscosity)
• Foam
– Creamy, rich to thin & loose
• Harshness
• Conditioning effects
Basic types of Shampoos
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Normal
Volumizing
Moisturizing
2 in 1
Baby
Natural
Shampoo Performance
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Foam Quality
Conditioning
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Harshness
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Rating (10 best)
Shampoo Type Comparison
Shampoo Formula
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Water
Surfactant
Secondary Surfactant
Preservative
Conditioning agent
Color
Fragrance
Feature Ingredients
Specialty ingredients
Shampoo Formula
• Secondary Surfactant
– Modify viscosity
– Improve foam
– Reduce irritation
• Aesthetic ingredients
– Opacifying agent
– Clarifying agents
– Colorants
Shampoo Formula
• Conditioning agents
– Silicones
– Cationic polymers
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Preservatives
Fragrance
Feature Ingredients
Formula Adjusters
– Acid
– Chelating agents
Cosmetic Formula sheet
Normal Shampoo Formula
Activity of Ingredients
• Many raw materials are sold diluted
• % Solids = Raw material – water
• Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids
• 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9%
solid ALS
• % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids
Volumizing Shampoo Formula
Volumizing Shampoo
• Higher level of surfactant
• Volumizing polymer (optional)
– Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Moisturizing Shampoo Formula
Moisturizing Shampoo
• More gentle detergents
• Added conditioning ingredients
– Polyquaternium-7
– Dimethicone Copolyol
• Pearlized – (optional)
– Glycol Stearate
2-in-1 Shampoo Formula
2 in 1 Shampoo
• Added conditioning ingredients
– Dimethicone
– Polyquaternium-10
• Pearlized
– Glycol Stearate
• Stabilizing agent (optional)
– Carbomer
Baby Shampoo Formula
Baby Shampoo
• More mild detergent system
• Compromise qualities for mildness
– Foam
– Detergency
– Conditioning
• Minimize fragrance
Natural Shampoo Formula
Natural Shampoo
• Sulfate free detergent
• “Gentle” preservatives
– No Parabens
– No DMDM Hydantoin
• Natural extract ingredients
• Synthetic fragrance free?
Making the batch
Equipment
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Beakers
Mixers
Thermometer
Stand
Hot plate
Scale
Weigh boats
Plastic wrap
Formulating Equipment
Shampoo Batching tips
• Cover batch with plastic wrap
• Record time, temp, changes
• Pre-weigh ingredients
• Weigh container prior to making batch
– Compensate for water loss
• Take specification readings at the end
– Adjust as needed
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Shampoo testing
• QA/QC Tests
• Performance Tests
Shampoo testing
• QA/QC Tests
• Specifications
– Viscosity
– pH
– Appearance
– Odor
Shampoo testing
• Use Tests
– Try product yourself
– Panel testing
Shampoo testing
• Tress testing
– Combing
– Feel / Softness
– Shine
Shampoo testing
• Foam testing
– Blender
– Shake test
Shampoo testing
• Safety testing
– Patch testing
– Irritation tests
Shampoo Stability testing
Shampoo Summary
• Shampoo Market Overview
– Big compared to other cosmetics
• Consumer Problems
– Cleansing, conditioning primary problems
• Surfactant Science
– Makes oil & water more compatible
– Responsible for cleaning hair
• Formulating shampoos
– 6 types of shampoos
• Testing
– Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests
Shampoos