CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE
12.1 PERMING THEORY
12.2 RELAXING THEORY
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:
• Explain the theory, techniques and procedures
for perming
• Explain the theory, techniques and procedures
for relaxing
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
12.1 PERMING THEORY
HISTORY OF PERMING
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
PERM ESSENTIALS
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW
PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
ADVANCE ORGANIZER
PERMING
• Is a highly valued service and significant revenue generator
• Adds volume, texture and movement to hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY
HEAT PERMANENT WAVING MACHINE
• Invented by Charles Nessler
in 1905
• Involved the spiral method
of wrapping hair from scalp
to ends around heated rollers
• Solution was heated with the
aid of electrical heaters
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
CROQUIGNOLE METHOD
• Wrapped hair from ends to
the scalp
• Led the way to the use of
clamps preheated on a
separate electric unit and
placed over hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
HEATLESS TECHNIQUE (“OVERNIGHT WAVE”)
Introduced by
Ralph I. Evans and Everett G. McDonough
in 1931 at the Midwest Beauty Show in Chicago
Used bi-sulphides rather than heat
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
COLD WAVES: THIOGLYCOLIC ACID AND ALKALINE
• Invented by Arnold F. Willatt in 1938
• No machines or heat were used
• Hair was wrapped on perm tools while a waving
lotion processed the hair without heat
pH 8.0 - 9.5
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
HEAT WAVES: ACID/ENDOTHERMIC AND EXOTHERMIC
Acid: Appeared in the early 1970s; called “buffered waves”
because they were gentler
Endothermic: Heat added to speed up processing time by
placing a plastic cap on client’s head and placing under a
preheated dryer
Exothermic: Generate their own heat without an external
heat source
pH 6.9 - 7.2
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
NEW TECHNOLOGY
Today’s perms involve two major phases:
PHYSICAL PHASE
Wrapping of the hair around
selected perm tools in particular
patterns and directions
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
HISTORY OF PERMING
CHEMICAL PHASE
Applying perm solution, rinsing,
applying neutralizer and rinsing
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
• The desired size and shape of
the new wave or curl pattern
are achieved by wrapping the
hair around perm tools
which become the mold for
the new texture
• Wrap hair smoothly and
evenly around tool, using
appropriate tension without
stretching it
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
To perform the physical phase of a perm service, you will
need to become familiar with:
• Distribute and Section
• Wrap
• Perm Tools (Rods)
• End Paper Techniques
• Base Control
• Perm Patterns
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
DISTRIBUTE AND SECTION
Distribute hair in direction desired:
• Away from the face
Section the hair according
• Toward the face
to the length of the perm
• Downward from a side part
tool and the wrapping
pattern you've chosen
• Alternating clockwise and
counterclockwise directions
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | DISTRIBUTE AND SECTION
WRAP
OVERLAP (CROQUIGNOLE)
• Rotates or revolves hair around a tool
from ends up to base (rotate at least 2 ½
times around the tool)
• Produces curls and undulating waves
• Achieves base lift, strong end curl
• Best suited for short-to-medium
length hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | WRAP
WRAP
SPIRAL
• Positions revolutions next to one another to
create an elongated texture pattern
• Is used on medium-to-longer lengths
Ends-to-Base Method: begin at ends and
rotate under twice; position tool vertically and
wrap hair in corkscrew fashion up to base
Base-to-Ends Method: begin at base, wrap
hair around tool held vertically until you reach
the end of the hair strand
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | WRAP
PERM TOOLS
• Come in various lengths, diameters and shapes
• Color-coded for easier selection of correct diameter
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM TOOLS
STRAIGHT PERM RODS
• Most common rod is cylindrical
and generally concave or straight
• Produce curls or waves
that are uniform throughout
the hair strand
• Hair on ends travels the same
distance as hair in the center
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM TOOLS
CONCAVE PERM RODS
• Narrower in diameter in center
and wider at ends
• Hair on ends travels farther than
in center
• Produces smaller, tighter curl in
center and wider more spiraling
pattern at ends
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM TOOLS
SOFT RODS
Flexible tubes that allow hair
strands to be wrapped around
the length of the tool to produce
a natural-looking curl
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM TOOLS
Different diameter perm tools produce different degrees of
curl activation:
LARGE
DIAMETER TOOLS
Produce large curls,
waves or body waves
MEDIUM
DIAMETER TOOLS
Produce texture with a
faster rate or speed of
activation
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
SMALL
DIAMETER TOOLS
Produce small, firm curls
PERM TOOLS
LENGTH REDUCTION
• Using smaller tools causes the hanging hair length to
become progressively shorter
• Analyzing the relationship
between hair length and
tool diameter helps to
anticipate length reduction
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
• Control hair ends
• Keep hair smoothly wrapped
around tool to ensure a smooth,
uniform curl formation
• Cover ends of hair to control
uneven lengths, minimize
breakage and eliminate crimps
or “fishhooks”
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
Bookend
• Uses one end paper folded in
half horizontally
• Controls sections of hair when
a shorter tool length is selected or
to wrap sections of very short hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
Double-Paper
• Incorporates two end papers,
one on top and one on bottom
• Allows maximum control of tapered ends
and avoids bunching the ends making it
the most common end-paper technique
• Also called double-flat technique
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
Single Paper
• Represents a more advanced version
of double-paper technique
• Used with healthy competent hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
Cushion
• Incorporates several end papers
• Begins with a double-flat technique, then additional
end papers are positioned on top of the strand as perm
tool is wrapped
• Provides cushioning and support to
fragile hair
• Controls shorter lengths within the
hair section
• Recommended for chemically treated
or highly porous hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
END PAPER TECHNIQUES
ALERT
When using multiple end papers, it is important to rinse
and blot the hair thoroughly since the extra papers hold
more moisture than a single end paper
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
STABILIZERS (PICKS)
• Designed to maintain the
position of perm tools
• Positioned under the bands of
perm tools
• Generally placed in the
same direction as the wrapping
direction
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
Combination of two related aspects of perming:
1. Size of the base in relation to the diameter of the tool
2. Position of the tool in relation to the base
Base: area between two partings for an individual perm tool
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
Bases can be rectangular, triangular or rhomboidal and
positioned vertically, horizontally or diagonally; length
and shape change according to section being wrapped
BASE SIZE
• Defined by base’s length and width
• Make base no longer than the length of the tool
• Determine width of base by diameter of perm tool
Too much hair on perm tool will prevent solutions from
penetrating properly
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
Base Size 1x
• One-diameter base
• Equal to diameter of perm tool
• Most frequently used
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
Base Size 1 ½X
• One full diameter plus one half
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
Base Size 2x
• Two full diameters of chosen tool
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
BASE CONTROL
TOOL POSITION
• Refers to the placement of the
wrapped perm tool in relation
to its base
• Determined by size of the base
and the angle at which hair is
projected while wrapping
• Affects degree of lift from the
base and the degree of
blending between bases
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
The four basic tool
positions are:
• On Base
• Half-off Base
• Underdirected
• Off Base
TOOL POSITION
On Base
• Use a 1x base
• Project hair at a 45° angle from center of base
• Position tool between two base partings
• Creates the most volume
• Not recommended for alkaline perms
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
TOOL POSITION
Half-Off Base
• Use a 1x base size
• Project hair at a 90° angle from center
• Position tool half on its base and
half off, directly on lower parting
Provides medium base lift and
maximum blending between bases
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
TOOL POSITION
Underdirected
• Use at least 1 1/2 x base size
• Project hair at a 90° angle from center of base
Used for moderate base lift and in
perimeter areas where less volume
is desired
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
TOOL POSITION
Off-Base
• Use any base size
• Project hair 45° below the center
of base while wrapping so tool is
positioned completely off its base
Used only for minimal degree
of volume or base lift and a
curl pattern concentrated on
the midstrand and ends
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
• Refers to the way perm tools
are arranged around the client’s
head while wrapping
• Helps organize and control
perm service
• Affects the final look of the
new curl pattern
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
Rectangle (9-Block)
• Consists of rectangular sections
subdivided into rectangular bases
• Basic direction is downward
• Considered most basic pattern
• May be performed on any sculpted form
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
Contour
• Adapts to contours or curves of the head
• Includes a central rectangle and slight
diagonal and horizontal partings at the sides
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
One-Two Bricklay
• Positions tools in a staggered
configuration
• Uses rectangle-shaped bases positioned
in any direction
and is wrapped with an
overlap technique
• Creates consistent curl
• Helps avoid splits between bases
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
Spiral Bricklay
• Features horizontal rows subdivided in a
staggered bricklay pattern
• Positions tools vertically within
the rectangular bases
• Achieves an elongated curl pattern on
medium-to-longer lengths of hair when
used in conjunction with the bricklay
perm pattern
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
Alternating Oblong
• Uses diagonal partings within oblongs
• Positions alternating oblongs
horizontally, vertically or diagonally
within a design
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
PERM PATTERNS
ALERT
Always read and follow manufacturer’s
directions before you begin wrapping
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
Techniques and patterns used to achieve a variety of
customized texture results:
Strand variations allow texture to be placed on certain parts
of the hair strand rather than along entire strand
Base variations provide alternatives to the
standard base control techniques
Advanced perm patterns position new texture
in specific areas or zones of the head
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
STRAND VARIATIONS
BASE PERMING
• Refers to adding texture only at base
of hair strand
• Gives lift and support, but not end curl
• Adds base support when used for
“grown-out” perm
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
STRAND VARIATIONS
Away From the Base Perming
• Adds texture anywhere along the strand
except at the base
• Creates contrasting textures
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
STRAND VARIATIONS
Piggyback
• Refers to a combination of
base perming and away from
the base perming
• Positions two or more perm
tools along length of the strand
• Creates a continued wave
pattern; tools are wrapped in
alternate directions
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
BASE VARIATIONS
Compression Bases
• Larger than 2x and perm tool is positioned within the base
• Used to wrap a larger amount of hair on a perm tool creating
more texture at ends and less at the base
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
BASE VARIATIONS
Woven Bases
• Also called zigzag bases
• Used for blending between
directional or texture changes and
into areas that are left natural
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
ADVANCED PERM PATTERNS
Zonal Patterns
• Also called partial perms
• Add texture in certain areas (zones)
• Add volume and directional movement
to straight hair
• Work well for short hair and in areas
such as fringe, crown and nape
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ADVANCED PERM TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNS
ADVANCED PERM PATTERNS
Freeform Patterns
• Standard perm patterns and
techniques are not used
• Result in a soft, freeform texture
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
ERGONOMIC TIPS FOR PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
• Stand directly behind the section to be wrapped,
not to one side or the other
• Keep tools and supplies within easy reach
• Do not bend over, stoop or raise your shoulders
uncomfortably while wrapping
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PERM TOOLS
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
Transforms the hair into lasting
perm texture
Two Chemicals Used
1. Perm Solution
(Reducing Agent)
2. Neutralizer
(Oxidizing Agent)
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
STEPS OF THE CHEMICAL PHASE
PROCESSING
• Perm Solution
• Timing/Testing
• Rinse
• Blot
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
NEUTRALIZING
• Neutralize
• Rinse
• Remove Tools
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
PROCESSING
PERM SOLUTION
Perm solution should be applied carefully, one perm
tool at a time, to ensure complete and even saturation
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PROCESSING
PROCESSING
• TIMING/TESTING
• Length of time the solution remains on the hair is
determined by manufacturer’s recommendations
or by taking a test curl
• Test curls show how well
bonds are softening and shifting
to new configuration
• Good test curls occur when
strands assume shape of tool
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PROCESSING
PROCESSING
RINSING
• Takes place after processing is complete
• Stops processing and removes
excess solution
• Use gentle water pressure to avoid
disturbing hair on perm tools
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PROCESSING
PROCESSING
BLOTTING
• Uses a terry cloth towel to blot
each perm tool after it is rinsed
• Removes excess water before
applying neutralizing solution
• Insufficient blotting can lead to
weak curls
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | PROCESSING
NEUTRALIZING
• Final chemical step in perm process
• Reforms disulfide bonds while lowering
pH of hair
• Main ingredient is hydrogen peroxide,
sodium perborate or sodium bromate
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | NEUTRALIZING
NEUTRALIZING
NEUTRALIZER
• Reduces swelling caused by
the alkalinity of the perm solution
• Rebonds and restores the
disulfide bonds
• Re-hardens or fixes disulfide bonds
into the new shifted position
• Makes the change permanent
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | NEUTRALIZING
NEUTRALIZING
TWO RINSING METHODS
• Leave the perm tools in position and
thoroughly rinse the neutralizer
• Remove perm tools, work neutralizer
through the ends and rinse
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | NEUTRALIZING
NEUTRALIZING
Remove Tools
• The hair will retain the shape of the tool
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | NEUTRALIZING
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
ALERT
Always read manufacturer’s directions
to achieve the best results from their perm products
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | NEUTRALIZING
CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
TWO CATEGORIES
1. Alkaline (Cold) Perms
Processed without heat
2. Acid (Heat) Perms
Processed with heat
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
1. ALKALINE (COLD) PERMS
• Carry a pH of 8.0 to 9.5
• Used for resistant hair or to achieve strong
curl patterns
• Utilize caution and skill to prevent damage to
hair structure or chemical burns to the skin
• Not recommended for highly porous hair
• Wrap hair without tension
• Processing begins when solution is applied
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
2. ACID (HEAT) PERMS
• Carry a pH of 6.9 to 7.2
• Cause minimal swelling
• Wrap hair with firm, even tension
• Slower processing than alkaline waves
• Recommended for damaged, highly
porous and previously permed hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
ADVANTAGES OF ALKALINE AND ACID PERMS
ALKALINE PERMS
ACID PERMS
• Strong curl patterns
• Soft, natural curl patterns
• Faster processing time
• More control due to
slower processing time
• Better for resistant hair
• No need for heat
• Gentler to the hair
• Better for fragile or
tinted hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | CATEGORIES OF PERM SOLUTIONS
HAIR ANALYSIS
Analyze hair to:
• Choose the right base size and tool size
• Select the proper perm solution
• Manage processing time
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
HAIR ANALYSIS
POROSITY
• Amount of moisture, liquids or
chemicals an individual hair strand
can absorb
• Porous hair is able to absorb
more perm solution so a mild acid
perm is desired
• Resistant hair requires a stronger
alkaline solution
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
HAIR ANALYSIS
ELASTICITY
• Hair’s ability to be stretched and
return to original shape
• Hair that lacks elasticity can react
adversely to perm solution
• It is not advisable or safe to perm
hair that is weak or shows any
signs of breakage
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
HAIR ANALYSIS
FINE, MEDIUM AND COARSE TEXTURE
• Texture of the hair is often categorized as either
fine, medium or coarse
• Fine and coarse textures are usually most challenging
to perm
• Knowing texture will help you select both the proper
perm formula and size of perm tool
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
HAIR ANALYSIS
DENSITY
• Refers to number of hair follicles per square inch
• Determines amount of hair that will be wrapped
on each perm tool
Density does not always correspond to hair texture
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
HAIR ANALYSIS
Manufacturers label perm products according to hair
texture, porosity and desired curl:
Texture
Fine, Medium, Coarse
Porosity
Normal, Resistant,
Previously Permed, Bleached
Desired Curl
True to tool size, soft, body waves
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING | HAIR ANALYSIS
PERM ESSENTIALS
Delivering professional perm services requires an organized
selection of products, tools, supplies and equipment
Refer to Material Safety
Data Sheets (MSDS) for all
chemical products
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PERM ESSENTIALS
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
1. Wash hands with liquid soap
2. Protect yourself; wear gloves
3. Protect your client’s clothing with proper draping
4. Check the scalp for abrasions or diseases
5. Conduct a test curl
6. Avoid perming damaged hair that shows breakage
7. Never perm hair that has been treated with a sodium
hydroxide or a no-lye relaxer
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
8. Analyze client’s hair to determine the correct perm
formula to be used
9. Perform a test for metallic salts if there is a possibility
such a product is on the hair
10. Determine if the client has experienced an allergic
reaction to previous perm services
11. Protect client’s skin by applying cotton around
the hairline
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
12. Throw away any opened, unused perm solution
or neutralizer
13. Follow manufacturer’s directions
14.
Keep all products out of eyes and away from the skin
15.
If a plastic bag is used during processing, do not allow
it to rest on the skin
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS
• Determine how client’s hair will react to a perm
• Test bleached, overporous, damaged or hair colored with
henna
Hair is ready when the test curl
forms a strong, well-defined “C”
or “S” shape
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
SCALP ANALYSIS
• Examine and analyze scalp because perming
involves chemicals
• Look for abnormalities such as cuts, scratches,
sores or abrasions
• Postpone perm service until scalp is healthy again
Never apply chemicals over any abnormal scalp condition
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS
Perform a 1:20 test prior to performing perm service if
metallic salts may be present
ALERT
Do not perm until the metallic product has been
cut out of the hair. Before giving any future perms,
repeat the test for metallic salts
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS
CONNECT
• Meet and greet
• Build rapport
CONSULT
• Ask, analyze, assess
CREATE
• Protect, ensure comfort,
deliver, teach
COMPLETE
• Reinforce, recommend,
prebook, discard or disinfect,
document, follow-up
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PERM SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PERM PROCEDURE OVERVIEW
PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
Possible Problems…
• Weak or limp curl
• Uneven curl
• Frizziness
• Breakage or dryness
• Skin irritation
• Unpleasant odor after perming
• Hair lightens after a perm service
• Perm did not last as long as expected
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
PERM PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
SELF-CHECK
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-5, answer the
following questions.
1. The phase of perming, which involves wrapping the hair
around the desired tool in the desired direction, is the
__________ phase.
2. Perm tools that produce small, firm curls and create a
fast texture activation with an energetic feeling have a
__________ diameter.
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
PERMING THEORY SELF-CHECK
3. Which end paper technique incorporates two end
papers, one on the top and one on the bottom, and
is the most common technique?
______________________________________________
4. With both alkaline waves and acid waves, the processing
action softens the protein structure and allows the
__________ __________ to shift, assuming the shape
of the perm tool.
5. The final chemical step in the perm process uses a
__________ to rebond and restore the disulfide bonds
and reduce swelling.
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
Now it’s time to check you answers.
1. The phase of perming, which involves wrapping the hair
around the desired tool in the desired direction, is the
physical phase.
__________
2. Perm tools that produce small, firm curls and create a
fast texture activation with an energetic feeling have a
__________
diameter.
small
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
PERMING THEORY SELF-CHECK
3. Which end paper technique incorporates two end
papers, one on the top and one on the bottom, and
is the most common technique?
Double-flat end technique
______________________________________________
4. With both alkaline waves and acid waves, the processing
action softens the protein structure and allows the
disulfide __________
bonds
__________
to shift, assuming the shape
of the perm tool.
5. The final chemical step in the perm process uses a
neutralizer to rebond and restore the disulfide bonds
__________
and reduce swelling.
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
FACE THE FACTS
HISTORY OF PERMING
 Perming is a service to be offered in conjunction with
other salon services
 In 1905, Charles Nessler made the first real
breakthrough with his heat permanent waving machine
 Perming has two phases: physical phase and chemical
phase
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTS
PHYSICAL PHASE OF PERMING
 The physical phase of perming involves wrapping the hair
around perm tools
CHEMICAL PHASE OF PERMING
 The chemical phase of perming involves two main steps:
processing and neutralizing
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
FACE THE FACTS
12.2 RELAXING THEORY
HISTORY OF RELAXING
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
RELAXER ESSENTIALS
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCE ORGANIZER
12.2 RELAXING THEORY
RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW
RELAXER PROBLEMS
AND SOLUTIONS
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCE ORGANIZER
RELAXING THEORY
Relaxing…
• Refers to the loosening or reducing of the hairs’
existing texture
• Takes clients from tightly curled, curly or wavy hair
to less curly or
wavy texture
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY
RELAXING THEORY
Relaxing is a specialized service performed in conjunction
with other salon services and can help you increase your
income and build loyal clientele
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY
HISTORY OF RELAXING
First relaxers were made of potash (wood ashes), lye, white
potatoes and lard
Hair Pressing…
• Conceived by Sarah Breedlove, better known as
Madam C. J. Walker, in the early 1900s
• Temporary method of hair relaxing
• By the late 1950s, several commercially produced
chemical relaxers were available
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
HISTORY OF RELAXING
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
BASIC RELAXER SERVICES
Curl Diffusion
• Also known as chemical blow-out
• Loosens or relaxes tightly curled hair patterns by
approximately 50% of natural shape
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
BASIC RELAXER SERVICES
Virgin Relaxer
• Performed when relaxing natural, untreated or “virgin” hair
• Straightens the hair from 85% to 100% of the original
curl pattern
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
BASIC RELAXER SERVICES
Retouch Relaxer
• Product is applied only to new growth area at scalp
• Do not allow relaxer to come in contact with previously
treated hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
BASIC RELAXER SERVICES
Zonal Relaxer
• Hair is relaxed only in selected areas of head
• Used when nape area and sides are closely tapered or
when perimeter hairline is frizzy
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
TYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
• Two main relaxer chemicals are sodium hydroxide and
ammonium thioglycolate
• Sodium hydroxide is the stronger of the two
• Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally
used on curly, tightly curled and resistant hair
• Thio relaxers are
used on wavy, curly
or non-resistant hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
TYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
SODIUM HYDROXIDE
• No-base sodium relaxers contain high oil content and
conditioning agents that help protect hair and scalp
from irritation
• No-base sodium relaxers are generally the choice of
salon professionals
• No-lye chemical relaxers are recommended for less resistant
hair and require frequent follow-up conditioning treatments
pH 11.5 - 14.0
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
TYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
ALERT
Do not apply sodium hydroxide relaxer to extremely
porous hair that has been colored with permanent hair
color or lightened hair (decolorized, bleached)
Do not apply sodium hydroxide relaxer to hair that has
been permed with ammonium thioglycolate or to hair
that will be permed with ammonium thioglycolate
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
TYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE
• Causes the hair to soften and swell
• Affects hydrogen and disulfide bonds
• Categorized as mild (delicate), regular (normal),
and super (resistant)
pH 8.5 - 9.5
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
TYPES OF RELAXER PRODUCTS
In Summary…
• Sodium, no-lye and thio relaxer formulas consist of three
principle ingredients:
• An active alkaline agent (sodium, potassium, lithium
or guanidine hydroxide)
• Oil (surfactants or surface-acting agents that protect
the hair and scalp)
• Water
Formulation requires quick application, processing and
removal to prevent damage
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
• Determine hair porosity, elasticity, texture, density,
type of curl pattern and condition
• Conduct several preliminary tests before a chemical
service to gain the most accurate assessment of your
client’s hair
• Postpone the service if you see signs of breakage in
the hair or abrasions on the scalp
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
POROSITY
Porosity refers to ability of hair to absorb moisture, liquids
or chemicals
• Determines selection of appropriate chemical relaxer
strength and processing time
POROUS HAIR
RESISTANT HAIR
Choose a product
labeled as mild
Choose a product
labeled as super strength
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
ELASTICITY
Elasticity describes the ability of the hair
to stretch and return without breaking
• Hair with good elasticity can usually
tolerate stronger chemicals; weaker
elasticity requires milder chemicals
• Avoid using chemicals if hair has very
poor elasticity
The elasticity test is also known
as the pull test
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
FINE, MEDIUM AND COARSE TEXTURE
Texture is categorized as fine, medium and coarse
when analyzing the hair
• Relates to actual size or diameter of an individual
hair strand
It is important to test each type of hair texture found on a
client’s head with its proper strength of relaxer
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
DENSITY
Density is the number of hair follicles per square inch
• Classified as light, medium or heavy
• Determines what size partings to use
during relaxer application
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
IDENTIFYING EXISTING TEXTURE (CURL) PATTERNS
• Identified by visual
characteristics
• All texture patterns
can be found in
people of every
ethnicity and race
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
HAIR ANALYSIS
IDENTIFYING EXISTING TEXTURE (CURL) PATTERNS
0%
25%
50%
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
75%
85%
100%
THE PHASES OF A RELAXER SERVICE
CHEMICAL PHASE
PHYSICAL PHASE
• Sectioning the hair
• Smoothing or combing
• Applying the
relaxer product
• Timing and testing
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
• Rinsing, blotting
and neutralizing
CHEMICAL PHASE
Sectioning the Hair
• Section the hair for organization
and control of chemical
application process
• Create four or five large sections
when relaxing entire head
• Protect skin around hairline and
ears with a base cream before
applying chemical relaxer product
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
CHEMICAL PHASE
Applying the Relaxer Product
• Application of proper product
and proper strength is critical to
success of service
• Apply with a brush
• Product is applied to one or both
sides of the strand depending on
service being performed
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Smoothing and Combing
• Spreads chemical relaxer through the
hair with the spine or back of a comb
• Redistributes relaxer on hair strand
and helps relax and reform the bonds
to a new straighter position
• Curl diffusion: combing instead of
smoothing relaxer through the hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Timing and Testing
Two primary ways:
1. Timing according to manufacturer’s directions
2. Performing relaxation tests
It is critical to know the length of time needed
for smoothing the relaxer product through the hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Timing Guide
FOR THIO RELAXERS
Strength
Condition of Hair
Timing
Mild
Fine Texture
Up to 15 minutes
Regular
Curly – Medium Texture
Up to 20 minutes
Super
Tightly Curled to Coarse
Up to 25 minutes
FOR SODIUM HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
Strength
Condition of Hair
Timing
Mild
Color Treated – Fine Texture
10 to 15 minutes
Regular
Curly – Medium Texture
Up to 20 minutes
Super
Curly – Coarse Texture
Up to 20 minutes
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Relaxation Test
For curl diffusion services…
• Testing is based on the
designer’s visual perception
For all other relaxer services…
• The relaxation test (comb
test) allows you to determine if
additional smoothing is required
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Rinsing and Blotting
• Hair must be rinsed for a long period of time to stop
chemical action and rid hair of chemical residues
• Check closely in nape area and behind ears since they
are the most difficult areas to rinse
• Blotting removes excess water after rinsing that can
adversely affect the ability of the neutralizer
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
PHYSICAL PHASE
Neutralizing
• Use an acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo or stabilizer
to reharden the hair into its new, straighter shape
• See manufacturer’s directions for how many times to
shampoo and how long neutralizing product is to be left
on the hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
THE PHASES OF A RELAXER SERVICE
1. Identify the existing texture pattern:
wavy, curly, tightly curled
2. Determine the desired texture pattern:
straight, wavy, curly
3. Analyze hair competency:
porosity, elasticity, density
4. Select the appropriate relaxer service:
curl diffusion, virgin, retouch, zonal
5. Choose the relaxer product and formula:
thio or sodium; mild, regular, super
6. Perform the relaxer service
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
Advanced Relaxer Services…
• Build upon fundamental concepts used in basic
relaxer services
• Take advantage of unique techniques or products
to provide specialized services
Thermal reconditioning and curl reformation are two
specialized services offered in many salons
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Thermal Reconditioning: advanced
relaxer service that results in straight
hair by using heat to restructure bonds
in the hair
• Straightens wavy to curly hair up
to 100%
• Uses the heat of a flat iron with
ceramic plates to restructure the
bonds in the hair
• Presents a higher level of difficulty
than other relaxer services
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
• Relax hair with an ammonium
thioglycolate-based product
• Straighten hair using a flat iron
• Neutralize hair with a designated product
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Relax
• Apply base cream to client’s
hairline and tops of ears after
sectioning
• Apply porosity control
product to hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Relax
Virgin Application
• Apply chemical relaxer product to
1/4” (.6 cm) horizontal partings,
1/2” (1.25 cm) away from scalp
and up to porous ends
• Then apply product to the scalp
area and ends if necessary
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Relax
Retouch Service
• Requires 3-4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
or 8 months new growth
• Apply product only to new growth
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Relax
• Smooth by combing product through
lengths being straightened
• Rinse relaxer product thoroughly once
desired degree of straightening is
achieved
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
• Unlike traditional relaxing services,
hair is not neutralized after rinsing
the relaxer
• 80% of the moisture is removed
to prepare for flat iron procecure
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Straighten
• Flat-iron hair from base to ends
• Use fine partings of 1/8” (.3 cm)
to allow flat iron to be positioned
close to scalp
• Be certain that flat iron plates are
ceramic and not metal
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
THERMAL RECONDITIONING
Main Steps
Neutralize
• Apply neutralizer to dry hair that
has been flat-ironed
• Use 1/2” (1.25 cm) partings
• Comb sections together slightly
to blend
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
IMPORTANT GUIDELINES
Hair should not be shampooed for 48 to 72 hours
following a thermal reconditioning service
No accessories such as barrettes, pins or bands
should be used on the hair for 48 to 72 hours after the
thermal reconditioning service
Clients should not tuck hair behind ears or
wear ponytails during this time period
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
CURL REFORMATION
Curl Reformation: chemical service
designed to change tightly curled
hair to curly or wavy hair
• Also known as soft curls,
reformation curls or doubleprocess perm
• Hair is first relaxed to reduce curl
pattern and then permed to
create a new curl pattern
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
3 R’S OF CURL REFORMATION
REDUCE
REFORM
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
REBOND
CURL REFORMATION
Reduce
• Apply curl rearranger ½” (1.25 cm) away
from scalp and out to porous ends
• Apply to scalp area if necessary
• Smooth hair from scalp to the ends
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
CURL REFORMATION
Reform
• Apply curl booster to the hair
• Wrap hair with desired perm tools
• Apply additional curl booster
to ensure thorough saturation
once hair is wrapped
• Rinse and towel blot hair with
perm tools remaining in place
when processing is complete
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
CURL REFORMATION
Reform
Alternative Method
• Wrap the hair in desired pattern
• Apply booster to each tool
ensuring thorough saturation
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
CURL REFORMATION
Rebond
• Apply neutralizer to perm tools to lock in new curl
pattern created in reforming step
Firmer Curl Pattern – neutralize with perm tools in the hair
Looser Curl Pattern – apply neutralizer to the perm tools,
remove tools and apply additional neutralizer to the hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
RELAXER ESSENTIALS
• Organize selection of products, tools, supplies and
equipment
• Refer to Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for
information of products
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
1. Advise client not to shampoo within 48 hours
before the sodium hydroxide relaxer service
2. Protect your client with proper draping
3. Perform a strand test to determine the
hair’s competency
4. Examine the scalp for any irregular conditions
5. Perform a test for metallic salts if there is a
possibility that such a product is on the hair
6. Avoid brushing or pulling the hair before giving
any chemical service
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
7. Never use sodium hydroxide to relax hair that
has been treated with a thio product or vice versa
8. Cut off all hair that has been previously treated with
sodium hydroxide if curl reformation is desired
9. Take special care with lightened hair
10. Apply base cream around hairline and ears
11. Wear protective gloves during chemical services
12. If a client experiences burning during a sodium
hydroxide relaxer service, rinse the hair with warm
water, apply neutralizing shampoo and proceed with
remaining service
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
13. Perform several test strands
14. Monitor timing guidelines closely
15. Avoid chemical burns and irritations to the skin, eyes,
ears and nose by keeping all products away from them
16. Secure cotton strips around the hairline before applying
neutralizer
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
ALERT
Avoid leaving a client
unattended while the hair is processing
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
DRAPING FOR CHEMICAL SERVICES
• Protects client’s clothing and avoids skin
irritations or burns caused by chemicals applied
• Includes a towel under the cape and a towel on
top of the cape
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
PRELIMINARY STRAND TESTING
THIO AND SODIUM
• Evaluates overall condition
of hair to determine if it
can withstand the chemical
service
CURL REFORMATION
• Predicts how client’s hair
will react to chemical
rearranger, booster and
neutralizer
• Always test tinted,
bleached, over-porous or
damaged hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS
• Perform a test for metallic salts, also called a 1:20 test
prior to a relaxer service
Presence of metallic salts can result in uneven curls,
distinct discoloration, hair damage or breakage
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY
RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS
CONNECT
• Meet and greet
• Build rapport
CONSULT
• Ask, analyze, assess
CREATE
• Protect, ensure comfort,
deliver, teach
COMPLETE
• Reinforce, recommend,
prebook, discard or disinfect,
document, follow-up
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
RELAXER SERVICE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
TYPE AND DESCRIPTION
ADVANTAGE
DISADVANTAGE
Sodium Hydroxide
Category: Lye, Base,
No Base pH: 11.5-14
Faster processing time; Irritates the scalp; may
better for resistant hair cause severe damage;
and/or coarse hair
strict time constraints;
base application
required and/or
recommended
Calcium or Potassium
Hydroxide
Category: No Lye
Better for less-resistant May be more drying;
hair; less irritating to
slower processing time;
scalp
requires frequent
conditioning treatments
Guanidine Hydroxide
Category: No Lye,
No Mix
Better for less-resistant Process slowly: not
hair; less irritating to
recommended for
scalp
tightly curled hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
TYPE AND DESCRIPTION
ADVANTAGE
DISADVANTAGE
Lithium Hydroxide
Category: No Lye,
No Mix
Better for less-resistant Process slowly: not
hair; less irritating to
recommended for
scalp
tightly curled hair
Ammonium Bisulfate
Category: No Lye, No
Mix
Better for
less-resistant hair
Ammonium
Thioglycolate
pH: 8.5-9.5
Better for less-resistant Not recommended for
hair; more control due tightly curled hair
to processing time;
better for fragile, fine
or tinted hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | RELAXING THEORY |
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
Requires the addition of
heat;
not recommended for
tightly curled hair
RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW
ALERT
Never apply a thio relaxer
over hair that has been
relaxed with a sodium
hydroxide relaxer or vice versa
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
RELAXER PROCEDURES OVERVIEW
RELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
Possible Problems...
• Extreme breakage shortly after relaxing
• Breakage within the nape after relaxing
• Irritation or sensitivity around the hairline
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
RELAXER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
SELF-CHECK
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-5, answer the
following questions.
1. The technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair
patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape is
_______________ _______________.
2. Two major categories of relaxer products used in the
professional salon are sodium hydroxide and
_______________ _______________.
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
3. An advanced relaxer service that results in straight hair
caused by the use of heat to restructure the bonds is
called __________ _______________.
4.
The chemical service designed to change tightly curled
hair to curly or wavy hair is known as __________
_______________.
5.
If curl reformation is desired, cut off all hair that has
been previously treated with __________ __________.
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
Now it’s time to check your answers.
1. The technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair
patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape is
curl
diffusion
_______________
_______________.
2. Two major categories of relaxer products used in the
professional salon are sodium hydroxide and
_______________
_______________.
ammonium
thioglycolate
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
3. An advanced relaxer service that results in straight hair
caused by the use of heat to restructure the bonds is
thermal _______________.
reconditioning
called __________
4.
The chemical service designed to change tightly curled
curl
hair to curly or wavy hair is known as __________
reformation
_______________.
5.
If curl reformation is desired, cut off all hair that has
sodium __________.
hydroxide
been previously treated with __________
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
SELF-CHECK
FACE THE FACTS
BASIC RELAXING THEORY
 Relaxing refers to the loosening of the hair’s existing
texture as when straightening curly or tightly curled hair
 The basic relaxer services are: curl diffusion, virgin
relaxer, retouch relaxer and zonal relaxer
 Two main chemicals are used as relaxers: sodium
hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTS
ADVANCED RELAXING THEORY
 Thermal reconditioning is an advanced relaxer service
that results in straight hair by using heat to restructure
bonds in the hair
 Curl reformation is a chemical service designed to
change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | PERMING THEORY |
FACE THE FACTS
LESSONS LEARNED
 Chemical texture services offered in the salon include:
perming, to transform hair from straight to curly; and
relaxing, to transform hair from curly to straight
 Perm results depend mainly on the distribution and
sectioning, wrapping technique, base control, tool size
and perm pattern used
 Relaxer results depend mainly on the chemical relaxer
product and smoothing technique used
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | LESSONS LEARNED
LESSONS LEARNED
 Thermal reconditioning is designed to straighten hair up
to 100% using a chemical service followed by flat-ironing
the hair
 A curl reformation service creates a new, looser curl
pattern by first relaxing and then perming the hair
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | LESSONS LEARNED
SELF-TEST
CHAPTER 12 TEXTURE | SELF-TEST