HISTORICAL INFLUENCES
ON
FASHION
Early 20th Century
1901 - 1920
Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)
Political Influences
• World War I
– More women in
workforce
• Practical,
comfortable
clothes
• Shorter skirts
(above ankle)
– Military cuts
– Trench Coat
Technology Influences
• Automobile
– Development of “travel” fashions: the
duster, goggles, caps with visors, veiled
hats
– History of Automobile
The duster was
the typical
“driving” fashion
th
of the early 20
century
http://www.fashionera.com/images/Edwfashpics/19
05motveil.jpg
HISTORICAL INFLUENCES
ON
FASHION
1920’s, 1930’s and
1940’s
Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)
Social Life of the 1920’s
• Revolution of mores and values
• Prohibition – lead to the “speak-easy”
(later, known as the nightclub)
• Flapper Era - “The Roaring Twenties”
– Body more revealed
– Short hair
– Increased use of make-up
– Introduction of the “trouser”
Typical 1920’s Flapper
style:
Short hair
Silhouette: Straight,
“tubular” dress
Shortened hemline
Lots of rouge and lipstick
http://home.millsaps.edu/
mcelvrs/flapper.jpg
World War II
• French couture (fashion) cut off during
German Occupation
• On the home front:
– Leather shoes rationed
– “L-85 Regulations”
• restricted quantity of cloth to be used for
civilian clothing
• Restricted use of nylon, wool, silk, natural
rubber
Let’s go to the Movies - hairstyles
Jean Harlow
Shirley Temple
Sports Influence
• Increased
participation by
women
• “Sportswear”
established as
separate fashion
category
Art Influence of the Period
• Art Deco
– Architecture and
interiors
– Geometric shapes
– Cubism
– Notables:
• William Van
Allen
• Pablo Picasso
• Henry Dreyfuss
•Surrealism
(“beyond the real”)
• Fabric prints
and
appointments
that seem out of
place
•Notable:
Salvador Dali
HISTORICAL INFLUENCES
ON
FASHION
Post WWII through 1964
Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)
Teen Market Emerges
• Originated in Britain
• Teddy Boys – first independent teen
fashion movement
• Significance:
– Promoted BY and FOR young people
– Began among lower classes (trickle-up)
– Evidenced as lifestyle cult
Teddy Boys Fashion
Longer coats with
velvet or satin
collars
“Drainpipe” ties
Slicked back hair
D.A. haircuts
http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm
http://www.fashionera.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_b
oys.htm
Teddy Girls Fashion
Velvet collars
D.A. haircuts
Turban-style
headwear
Lace-up espadrilles
http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm
TV FASHION INFLUENCE
TV FASHION INFLUENCE
Lucille Ball’s pregnancy,
the focus of the 2nd
season of I Love Lucy,
freed designers to more
publicly address the need
for fashionable maternity
clothes
http://www.cnn.com/SHOWBIZ/970
5/13/concealing.pregnancies/
Political Scene
• John Kennedy – no hat at
inauguration influenced decline of hat
in men’s fashions
• Jacqueline Kennedy
– Pill box hat
– A-line skirts
– Low-slung pumps
– Revival of empire style (from Greek)
Empire waist
Pillbox Hat
http://www.fiftiesweb.com/kenne
dy/jackie-kennedy.jpg
A-line styling
HISTORICAL INFLUENCES
ON
FASHION
Vietnam Era
1964-1974
Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)
Mod Fashion of the 1960’s
•Elegance
•Edwardian flair
•“Long” hair
“Beatlemania” - 1964
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d7/
Beatlessullivansinging.jpg
Rockers Fashion of the 1960’s
•Leather
jackets
•Motorcycles
http://www.costume.virtualmuse
um.info/renegade.asp
Hippie Fashion
•Eclectic clothing
•Long hair
•Thrift store
purchases
•Communal living
http://employees.oneonta.edu/a
ngellkg/1960.HTML
Mod fashions
of the 1960’s
•Color
•Eclectic
•Mini skirt
http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/modfashion.htm
Unisex Fashion
•Ties
•Pantsuits
•Annie Hall look
http://employees.oneonta.edu/
angellkg/1960.HTML
http://www.riotpoof.com/
archives/Hall.jpg
African Fashion
Influence
dashiki
African caftan
Kente cloth
Jeans rule
Levi Strauss Trademark
http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellk
g/1960.HTML
Op Art
http://www.ritsumei.ac.jp/~a
kitaoka/opart-e.html
Pop Art
http://www.biada.org/materies/
artsdidactica/art/pintura/pop_art
/warCAMP.jpg
http://www.p4a.com/item_images
/medium/08/94/28-01.jpg
www.sixtiescity.velnet.com/
Fash2/Fashion2.htm
HISTORICAL INFLUENCES
ON
FASHION
1975-1996
Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)
U.S. History
Social/Technology
• Baby Boomers
having children
– “Kiddie Couture”
(NY Times)
Changes in the Fashion
Industry
• GATT Treaty (General
Agreements on Tariffs and Trade)
• Apparel production shifts to 3rd
world countries
• NAFTA (North American Free
Trade Agreement)
Major Fashion Trends
• Retro
(retrospective)
• Revival of
previous styles
1970’s power
suit revisited
the padded
shoulders and
the tailored
jacket of the
1940’s
http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/
1970.html
http://www.davenportandco.com/formal2.htm
In the 1980’s formal wear was reminiscent of
the lower waist lines of the Roaring 20’s and
the puffed sleeves of the 1950’s, ushering in
a revival of the “romantic” era
Major Fashion Trends
• Yuppies and Preps
– Power suits
(Yuppies)
– Classic tweed,
tailored skirts,
pants, shirts,
loafers, oxfords,
low pumps (Preps)
Other 1970’s Fashion Trends
http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html
http://www.vintageblues.
com/history8c.htm
Other 1980’s
fashion trends
Major Fashion Trends
• Punk – a London
original
• Sid Vicious of the Sex
Pistols is the most
popular and visible
icon of the 1980’s
British punk
movement
http://www.hotshotdigital.com/
WellAlwaysRemember.2/SidVicious.htm
Major Fashion Trends
• African American Revival
– Inner-city youth influence
– Rap/hip hop musicians
– Revival of kente cloth (and imitators)
– Baggy pants, over-sized shirts
– Dreadlocks
– Emergence of black fashion models,
designers
Rappers NWA
dreadlocks
http://www.howtodread.com/dreds.htm
http://www.solcomhouse.com/music.htm
Influence of the
African American
movement through the
1990’s.
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/info
cus/fashion/hiphop.html
The emergence
of black models
and designers
reflected the
importance and
impact of the
African American
fashion
movement
http://www.amadoo.com/galerie/slideshow.php?set_albumName=Kiara-Kabukuru
Consumer Changes of the
Era
• Baby Boomers older (32-50)
• Obesity
– Styles, stores targeted to larger consumers
– Revolt of “heroin chic” (skinny bodies)
• Fitness Craze
– Leggings, high tech fabrics, micro fiber
– Jogging suits
– High tech athletic shoes
• Continuation of casual wear – “Casual Fridays”
Review of Fashion Influences
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Silhouette
Hemlines
Technology
Fabrics/textiles
Political arena
Current events
Media
Consumer
changes