TABLE OF CONTENTS
_______________________________________________________
INTRODUCTION – MOBILEHOMEREPAIR.COM
FLOOR AND BELLY REPAIR
1) Underbelly
2) Dead Rodents
3) Rotten Floors
4) Laminated Flooring
5) Cross-Over Ducts
SIDING, WALLS AND WINDOWS
6) Walls
7) Windows and Doors
8) Vinyl Siding Installation Tips
ROOF AND CEILINGS
9) Ceilings
10) Metal Roof Maintenance
11) Inexpensive New Metal Roof
12) Ceiling Fan
PLUMBING
13) Outdoor Faucet and Shut-Offs
14) Waterlines
15) Water Heaters
16) Bathroom Remodel
17) Heat Tapes
18) Washing Machine Vibration
19) Frozen Waterlines
20) Winterizing Drain and Waterlines
EXTERIOR
21) Releveling
22) Basements
23) Foundation/Site Prep
24) Skirting
25) Anchors
26) Additions
HEATING AND COOLING
27) Solar Heating
28) Furnace Troubleshooting
29) Air Conditioning Maintenance
MISCELLANEOUS
30) Quick Tips
INDEX
8/18/2005
8/18/2005
www.mobilehomerepair.com
Hi everyone!
My name is Mark Bower. I own a manufactured home repair business in
Aberdeen, South Dakota. I also do consulting and have been an expert witness
in cases involving manufactured homes. Thank you for purchasing my book.
This book was born from all the questions and information requested from our
little website, www.mobilehomerepair.com. Will this book answer all your
questions regarding mobile home repair? The answer is NO. But if you do have a question
that’s not addressed in this book, please visit our website at www.mobilehomerepair.com and
post your question in our Forum. You will get a quick response. Don’t have a question? Come
visit and read stories posted by others, or contribute your own story. You’ll be pleasantly
entertained.
Mark Bower
Aberdeen Home Repair
www.mobilehomerepair.com
Copyright 2005
Reproduction prohibited without permission
UNDERBELLY
Repair and Replace
Chapter 1
_______________________________________________________
Does the underbelly of your home look like the picture above? If your entire underbelly is in bad
shape and you are looking for a quick fix, you won’t find it here. Replacing an entire underbelly
is probably the most difficult repair task on a manufactured home. Many repair companies will
do patches, but not replace the entire underbelly. It’s difficult work because there’s little room
and obstacles such as sewer and water lines, blocking, anchors etc. are all in the way and make
maneuvering underneath even more difficult.
Underbelly Types
The two standard materials for a manufactured home underbelly (sometimes called bottom board,
belly tarp or belly paper) are a polyethylene-type material and a more rigid board-type material.
The polyethylene-type of underbelly resembles a tarp or house wrap but is impregnated with
petroleum oil to help deter bugs, rodents and keep out moisture. The same can be said with the
rigid board-type of underbelly material. Of the two types, the polyethylene type of underbelly is
the most prevalent.
Repairing Small Holes
Step 1 – To repair a cut, first insert a piece of
insulation to replace any that’s missing.
1-1
Step 2 – Using the damp rag, wipe around the
cut to remove any dust and dirt. Then cut and
peel the back off a piece of underbelly tape and
stick over the opening. To save a lot of
frustration, use the proper tape. Duct tape does
not work. Look for a brand of underbelly tape
called Flex-Mend. It’s a woven polyethylene
film which is designed to meld with your
existing black polyethylene underbelly. A roll is
not cheap, but at the time of this printing it’s the
only thing that works well.
If you have the board-type of underbelly, then
Flex-Mend tape will not work to repair it. Look for a standard heavy duty belly tape designed for
such applications, or you can use construction adhesive and glue a piece of thin plywood over the
opening. Hold it in place with a couple screws. Screws alone will generally not do a good job of
holding the plywood in place, so the adhesive is very important.
Step 3 – Using a heat gun or hair dryer, gently
apply heat and rub the tape with your hand to
increase adhesion.
Repairing Medium Holes
The only difference between patching small and medium holes is
instead of using 4” wide Flex-Mend, use 29” wide Flex-Mend as
pictured to the right. To stick, simply peal off the release paper
and apply. Then with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the tape.
Nope, duct tape does not work when doing belly repairs.
Unfortunately Flex-Mend doesn’t work very well on the boardtype of underbelly. In that case you may have to get creative.
1-2
The above pictures show a ‘before’ and ‘after’ of repairing a medium-large hole. The first picture
obviously shows the underbelly tore open and the insulation missing. The second picture shows
the completed repair. In making the repair, first replace the missing insulation. If your lucky, the
underbelly material will be all there – just hanging down as was the case in the above ‘after’
picture. If you’re missing underbelly, then you’ll have to piece in some.
The insulation and underbelly are held in place using 1x boards. Pictured above right are 1x3’s.
The boards shown left to right in the above picture set on top of the mobile home frame. Each
home is different, but on many mobile homes you’ll find a steel frame member every 4-6’. Let
these steel frame members hold-up your 1x boards, and if necessary screw boards perpendicular
across those.
Repairing Large Areas
Patching large areas or an entire underbelly is much more challenging. On some homes,
following the previous instructions may do the trick. It’s impossible to completely cover the
underbelly in one sheet as blocking impedes your ability to do that.. In a perfect situation the
home is lifted above the blocking and off the frame and the belly paper is slid underneath in one
piece. But that process is not practical for the do-it-yourselfer and most industry professionals
won’t attempt it either.
The practical solution is to repair or replace the underbelly in sections – between each section of
metal frame. It sounds easy to simply fasten the new belly paper to the floor joists, but when
pipes and heat ducts run below the floor, its not possible. Plus, insulation also needs to run
underneath the floor joists.
Although how you approach repairing large areas depends upon what’s underneath your home,
here’s one approach that may work. Just keep in mind that you’re working in a 1-2’ high space
the entire time.
First, cut a piece of belly tarp to fit the area. Belly tarp (also called underbelly paper, etc.) can be
purchased from any mobile home parts dealer. If you instead opt to use a regular tarp or a piece
of housewrap, keep in mind that those types of material aren’t oil impregnated so may rot with
moisture and won’t repel bugs and critters as well. Don’t be afraid to oversize the piece as extra
can always be trimmed later.
1-3
Next purchase rolls of 3.5” fiberglass insulation with a paper backing. The wider the rolls the
better. Spread out the belly tarp and unroll the insulation onto the tarp. Adhere the insulation to
the tarp by using dabs of clear silicone. When you’re finished, you should have what looks like a
big blanket of insulation ready to nail up.
The best way to nail up
your new underbelly is to
use strips of wooden lathe
around the edges. Drag
the insulation blanket
underneath your home
and find a helper. With
such a small space to
swing a hammer, nailing
the lathe using an air
nailer will make the job
much easier. Of course,
the nails must hit a floor
joist.
In the diagram to the
right, the belly tarp is to
be nailed up between the
two main steel beams
with lathe nailed aross the floor joists along the edge of the steel beams.
For the areas underneath along the edge of the home, the metal outriggers that extend out from
the main frame are a real hindrance. Depending upon the placement of your outriggers, you
perhaps can slide the belly material over them and then nail using the lathe along the edges.
Otherwise you’ll have to install belly material between each outrigger.
As stated in the beginning, its hard to try and describe every possible way of installing a new
belly. In some cases, ¼” plywood make work best by supporting it between various steel frame
members. Whatever the option, it will require common sense and much patience.
If common sense tells you to install insulation up in between the floor joists, remember that
waterlines must stay above the insulation so heat from the floor keeps them warm. Don’t wrap
waterlines located in the belly in any type of insulation. They must be exposed to the heat of the
floor.
1-4
DEAD RODENTS
Find & Remove
Chapter 2
_______________________________________________________
You know you have a dead animal when a sewer-like decaying smell gets worse every day. The
hardest part of removing a dead animal from underneath your floor is to find the critter without
tearing apart your belly and removing all the insulation. By knowing a few tricks you should be
able to locate and remove the dead critter with very minimal damage to the belly.
Critters tend to move into warmer areas when the weather outside gets cold. So the first line of
defense before Fall gets here, is to be sure your skirting is solid with no holes and that your
underbelly has no tears or gaps around pipes. But despite the best intentions, an occasional
mouse or cat still seems to be inevitable.
The first step to finding the darn critter is to narrow down in which part of the home the smell is
strongest. Smell underneath your cupboards and down your floor registers. Once you’ve located
the area of the strongest smell, it’s time to take a trip underneath your home. Before crawling
underneath, line-up the following tools and materials. Carry them in a little box to minimize the
number of trips because you forgot something.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
Flashlight or work light
Extension cord
Belly tape
Utility knife
Heat gun
Insulation
Damp rag
Periscope with light on top
Yes, you read #8 right. A periscope with a light on top is the
biggest secret to searching inside your belly without cutting a
giant hole. Periscopes can be found in some toy departments or
an army surplus store. The periscope pictured here is from an
army tank and can be occasionally found listed on various
online auction sites for $30-$40. This periscope is particular
suited to the job because of the wide, clear prism. It’s also very
durable.
If you don’t have a periscope or can’t find one, don’t fret. A
flashlight and mirror can give you the same results.
2-1
Step 1 – Plug in your extension cord and crawl to the area you have determined has the strongest
smell. Look for a sag in the belly and feel for pipes and heat ducts to be sure you won’t cut into
them. Give that sag a hit with your hand. If something bounces, sometimes we call that the ‘dead
cat bounce!’ OK, just kidding. Besides, no one is lucky enough to find their dead critter that
quick.
Step 2 – Cut an 8-12 inch long slit in the belly.
With your hand widen a hole through the insulation.
The secret to easily patching your bottom material is
to make simple cuts that are easy to repair. One
straight cut is easiest. If you need more room, then
cut an X. A straight cut requires one piece of
underbelly tape to repair, two pieces for an X.
When you make your cut and the raunchy smell
about knocks you over, you know you’re in the right
area.
Step 3 – Turn on the light on top of your periscope
and push it up in the hole. Look one way then the
other. If you are having trouble seeing, a stronger
light may be needed.
Again, if you do not have a periscope, shine a
flashlight in the hole and use a make-up mirror to
look around.
Step 4 – Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the dead critter is found. If it’s not found on the first cut,
make additional cuts nearby for a different look. Be sure to look next to heat ducts as critters like
to lay where it’s warm. Once found, make the opening bigger to remove it. Again, cut only a
bigger slit or X. Even big X’s require only 2 pieces of tape to repair. Wait until you’ve located
the critter before beginning to repair your cuts, just in case you need to return back to a hole for
another look. Sometimes it helps to use a stick in the hole to flatten down the insulation as you
look.
Step 5 – To repair the cut(s) you made in the belly, refer to chapter 1 on repairing small holes.
Tip: One trick to help deter those little pests from even getting under your home is to spread
mothballs underneath your home every year. At first you may get a bit of a mothball smell inside
the home, but it will go away. Even then, a slight mothball smell is definitely better than the
smell of a dead, decaying critter!
2-2
ROTTEN FLOORS
Repair and Replace
Chapter 3
_______________________________________________________
Soft spots in your floors generally occur in wet areas like the bathroom or in front of
leaky doors and windows. In many manufactured homes the floors are constructed of
particle board. When particle board becomes wet it becomes weak and soft. If the
bathroom floor is your main problem, jump to chapter 16 for more information. For
repairing soft floors underneath doors and windows, you can for more information in
chapter 7. For repairing floors in other rooms, follow this guide.
First remove the existing floor covering.
In many older homes, the carpeting is laid
underneath the walls. To remove the
carpeting, cut along the walls with a utility
knife.
Next, remove any
carpet bars, the
closet doors and
the bottom track
to the closet door.
Remove the floor
registers. Most
are taken out by
removing two
screws and then
prying them up.
Roll back the carpet and then remove it.
When removing carpet, open a window
for fresh air. It's also a good idea to wear a
mask for protection against airborne mold
and mildew.
3-1
With the subfloor now exposed, damage
can be inspected.
You should be able to locate the floor
joists by seeing the nails or staples, but if
you are unable to determine their location,
cut an inspection hole and feel for the
joists with your hand. Also feel for the
location of any pipes or wires.
If replacing the floor of the entire room,
cut along the wall edge with a circular saw
or reciprocating saw.
For easy removal of debris, set a dump
trailer right outside the window. Throw
the debris out the window into the trailer.
3-2
For easiest removal of the old floor, begin by
cutting between each floor joists with a circular
saw. It is easier to work in sections.
Once cut, pull up the cut pieces using a pry bar and
throw out the window into the dump trailer. If the
flooring is glued to the joists, the pieces may not
come up easily.
Clean up the top of the joists by removing
all the staples and nails. If the old floor
was glued, then scrape away any remnants
stuck to the joists. Take the proper
amount of time and do a good clean job.
3-3
When installing the new plywood
flooring, all edges of the plywood need to
be supported by a 2x4. At this point
notice in the picture that there's no joist
along the edge of the wall to support the
new flooring. To add a joist, simply screw
a 2x4 to the existing joist which may be
slightly under the wall. In some cases it
may take two 2x4's to make the floor joist
come out far enough from under the wall
to offer support. 2x4 supports should also
be added between the joists at the seams
of the plywood flooring.
The first section is now ready for new
plywood subflooring. In most cases the
plywood will be ¾” thick to match the
existing flooring. However, be sure to
measure the thickness of your existing
flooring as some homes do use 5/8” thick
flooring. If your installing all new floors,
definitely use ¾” plywood and nothing
thinner. Laying the floor in sections may
be easier than ripping out the whole floor
at once. Plywood offers much greater
strength than particle board. Notice how
some of the joists (like the first one from the right) look wider than others. This is called
a T-joist, and some manufacturers use these at all the seams. The top of the Tee is a strip
of subflooring about 3" wide. If this strip appears in good shape, leave it. Otherwise,
replace it to keep all the joists the same level.
With the floor opened up, this is a great time to
beef-up the insulation underneath. Also do any
minor belly repairs. When adding insulation, do
not smother any waterlines. Keep any added
insulation underneath the waterlines so heat from
the floor can reach the lines.
3-4
After measuring and cutting the new
flooring, construction adhesive should be
applied to the tops of all the joists to help
minimize floor squeaks.
After applying the adhesive, lay down the
first piece of plywood flooring and screw
into place using 2" galvanized screws.
Screws are preferred over nails as they are
less likely to pop. If you still decide to opt
for nails, use ring-shanked nails as they
have better holding power and are less
likely to pop.
Cut and screw the last piece into place,
which is often the piece by the door.
Wow, a job well done! You are now ready
to lay carpet or install vinyl flooring.
3-5
More Floor Repair Tips
When cutting your inspection hole, also
beware of this type of floor system.
Basically the floor sets on 1x2’s run
across the 2x floor joists. If you don’t
spot these 1x2’s, you could very easily cut
them. Of course if the 1x2’s are already
rotten, you’ll have to repair them anyway.
To repair, remove a section of 1x2
between the joists and replace with a 2x4.
Wherever old floor meets new floor,
that seam needs to be supported with
blocking otherwise you may feel
‘give’ when walking in that area. Air
nailers are a great way to secure the
blocking between the floor joists.
Notice the t-joist in this example.
Manufacturers install t-joists at the
seams of their subfloor. A t-joist is
just a type of blocking.
When repairing the floor, cut out all the
area that is stained – not just the area with
the hole. Eventually the stained area will
weaken and create a hole, so might as well
head-off trouble and fix it all now.
When repairing a floor underneath a
window or by a door, repair the entire area
in front of the window or door – not just the
bad spot. Refer to chapter 7 for more
details.
3-6
LAMINATED FLOOR
Installation
Chapter 4
_______________________________________________________
In manufactured homes you generally have two options for floor coverings: carpet and vinyl.
Other options such as tile or self-stick squares don’t work well because manufactured homes shift
too much causing the tiles to move, spread or bend. Plus the particle board subfloors tend to
swell when wet and many manufactures will void the warranty if their floor covering is installed
over particle board. But in recent years a third viable option has hit the marketplace – laminated
flooring. Laminated flooring works well because the floor floats. Since its not attached, it
separates itself from the normal movement of the subfloor. The biggest caution when installing a
laminated floor is to maintain a ¼” gap all around the edges for expansion and contraction.
Those gaps in the end are covered by trim. When choosing a laminated floor, choose quality.
Cheaper floors may only last a few years whereas quality may still look like new 10 years later!
Step 1 – Acclimate the wood to the room by setting the
wood in the room at least 24 hours prior to beginning the
project (pictured left).
Step 2 – Remove the
existing floor coverings.
In many homes the carpet
and linoleum are laid
under the walls and will
have to be cut to be
removed (pictured right).
4-1
Step 3 – Inspect the subfloor for any damage
and repair. The picture to the left shows
moisture damage.
Step 4 – Roll down a layer of foam
underlayment. When rolling down the second
row, tape the seam with duct tape.
Step 5 – Begin by laying down the first two
rows of flooring. Laminated flooring either
glues together or snaps together. If you use the
glue-together flooring, stop after you’ve glued 3
rows until dry. With the snap-together flooring,
you can continue on.
IMPORTANT: Laminated flooring should be
installed a ¼” from any wall or other surface it
meets. Spacers are available to help you keep
that distance. If no space is left or the floor is
attached to the subfloor at any point, buckling
could occur as the boards expand and contract
with temperature and humidity changes.
4-2
Cut boards using a fine (plywood) blade.
Laminated flooring is hard on blades, so keep a
couple spares on hand. Lay the board face down
when cutting to minimize tear-out.
Step 6 – Continue laying boards. Tap them
together using a
board or special
block with a
groove. Don’t tap
on the laminate
directly with a
hammer.
Remember to keep
the ¼” spacing
from the wall and
cabinets.
When installing laminated floor at door
openings, cut off the bottom of the trim with a
handsaw (undercutting)
so the laminate slips
underneath it but not
touching anything. This
makes the final trimming
easier.
The picture on the left
also shows the floor
meeting another floor.
The picture on the right shows the transition
complete with the addition of T-bars.
Step 7 – Where
the laminated
floor meets
another laminate
or wood floor, a
special transition
T-bar strip is
4-3
installed. A bar is screwed down and then a top piece snaps in after the floor is installed (pictured
left). The photo above right shows an installed T-bar.
This photo (left) shows a typical metal transition
bar. This one is nailed in place, but the nails
must not touch the laminate or the ¼” gap, only
the vinyl flooring.
Traditional
moldings can
be nailed
around the
edge to cover
the ¼” gap.
Do not nail
down into the
laminate, nail
only into the wall.
Step 8 – Caulk along all doors and underneath windows to
ensure moisture doesn’t work underneath the floor.
All done, time to kick your feet up!
4-4
CROSS-OVER DUCT
Replacement and Air Flow
Chapter 5
_______________________________________________________
Replacing a Cross-Over Duct
Underneath many doublewide mobile homes are
one or more insulated cross-over ducts which
transfer heat from one half of the home to the
other. If that unwelcome cat or critter has
damaged your cross-over duct, you can lose a lot
of heat underneath your home. You’ll first notice
problems because one-half of your home will be
much colder or warmer than the other half. If
your cross-over duct needs replacing, first
remove the old cross-over duct and drag it out
from underneath the home. Then stretch out a
new length of duct alongside the old and cut the
new to the same length.
A cross-over duct is composed of three layers.
The inside layer is a skin laced with wire. The
middle layer is insulation, and the outside layer is
a plastic protective sheath.
To install, first screw the inside layer to the round
duct connector. The head of the screw should
catch the wire so the cross-over duct can't be
pulled down. Then wrap with duct tape. Next pull
the insulation and outside sheathing up and
secure again with duct tape.
Finally be sure that the cross-over duct has no
kinks (unlike what the top picture shows) and is
not laying directly on the ground.
5-1
Increasing Air Flow Through A Cross-Over Duct
About this time of the year, one question that frequently pops up on our forum is "Why is the
flow of air through my heat ducts so low in half my home?" When doublewide homes are set-up,
some brands have a big insulated crossover duct that transfers heat from one half of the home to
the other. Other brands may have a combination of smaller cross-over ducts. And many newer
homes have completely eliminated the cross-over duct by finding a way to connect the heating
system within the floor.
In the past our standard answer to the above question has been "check your crossover duct." And
if your crossover duct is fine, about all you can do is partially close the heat ducts in the warm
half of your home so more air is forced into the cold half. Now we may have discovered another
solution.
A couple weeks ago I was called to
replace a damaged cross-over duct.
Like many cross-over ducts, it was
attached directly to the main trunk
coming from the furnace. Before I
connected the new duct, I looked up
inside the trunk and said to myself,
"Gees, no wonder air doesn't flow
well through this cross-over duct. The
air flows right by. Nothing really
diverts it into the cross-over duct."
So those thoughts gave way to an
experiment. Inside the ductwork I
erected a partial wall. I made the wall
out of galvanized metal and screwed it
to the existing ductwork. Now when the furnace kicks on, some of the air is diverted into the
cross-over duct via my new partial wall.
Each heating system is unique, so this trick may not work on all homes. If you're having trouble
getting airflow to the cold half of your doublewide home, then maybe a creative solution like this
one will is just the trick you need.
Increasing Air Flow to a Cold Room
Do you have one of those rooms that’s
always colder or warmer than the other
rooms? Possibly that room is located at the
far end of the house. To help even out the
temperature, try a duct booster like the one
pictured to the left. The duct booster sits
over the floor register. When the booster
senses a change in temperature from the
floor register, a fan comes on and helps pull
more air into the room.
5-2
WALLS
Changing the look, load bearing
Chapter 6
_______________________________________________________
Paneled Walls – A Textured Sheetrock Look
Tired of looking at those paneled walls or those strips hiding the seams? By following the
instructions below, you can make your walls look darn near like textured sheetrock without
replacing one piece of paneling! You might first want to experiment on a scrap piece of paneling
to get a feel for the whole process.
The secret to the whole project lies in the primer. Whether you have wood paneling or vinylcovered sheetrock, with the right primer you can do anything. One such primer which works well
is ‘Lowes Bonding Primer.’ Behr’s is ‘another good one. Always ask your paint professional
which primer they would recommend.
The above left picture shows a piece of paneling before the process has begun. The above right
picture shows the same piece of paneling once the process has been complete.
Step 1 – Remove strips and wash paneling using ‘Gloss Off.’ Whatever you can do to reduce the
gloss will help the primer stick better.
Step 2 – Fill in the grooves of the paneling and seams with a lightweight, non-shrinking spackling
compound like ‘Red Devil’s One-Time’ or ‘Red Devil’s Vinyl Spackling Compound.’ Apply
with a putty knife. One tip when applying it is to slightly overfill the grooves, then let dry and
sand smooth.
Note: When filling in the seams between the panels, keep in mind that cracks still may form if
your home shifts. A vinyl compound is less likely to crack. A paintable caulk may also work but
getting it to look seamless may be difficult. On vinyl-covered sheetrock, you may even wish to
consider taping and mudding the seams just as you would do with sheetrock. For best results,
strip back the vinyl covering at the seams to expose the sheetrock.
6-1
Step 3 – Wipe down the surface with a tack cloth or damp rag.
Step 4 – Roll on a coat of primer and let dry.
Step 5 – Using a bucket of regular light-weight sheetrock mud, add water until its consistency is
like soft ice cream. Pour some of the mud into a paint tray. Using a texture roller, roll mud onto
the wall until a desired coverage is obtained. Roll back and forth and in all directions. Then
using a flat piece of cardboard or plastic knock-down tool, drag it over the mud knocking down
the tops of the mud. Let dry. A knock-down tool likes like a wide floppy putty knife. In fact,
many professionals use wide putty or taping knives to do a knockdown.
Step 6 – Paint with your favorite color of semi-gloss latex paint.
Of course the rolled-on texture look is simply one way of finishing your walls. For other ideas,
visit your local home improvement center.
Load Bearing Walls
If your remodeling plans call for moving a wall, be sure you know which walls are load-bearing
and which aren’t. If you move a load-bearing wall, roof problems (among other things) could
develop.
Load bearing walls are all exterior walls. On a multi-sectional home (doublewide, triplewide
etc), the wall between each section is a load-bearing wall. Most interior walls are non-load
bearing unless the ceiling height changes at that wall. For instance, if the ceiling changes from
flat to cathedral, the wall between those two points may be load bearing.
6-2
WINDOWS & DOORS
replace and upgrade
Chapter 7
_______________________________________________________
Windows
Many homeowners think that they have to buy ‘mobile home windows’ to upgrade their existing
ones. This thinking is far from correct. The truth is any standard house window can be ordered
for a manufactured home. Here’s how the process works:
1) Measure the rough opening that the window will fit into. Be sure to add for any trim or
facing that may be skewing your measurement.
2) Take these
measurements to your
local lumberyard or
home improvement
store. Choose your
windows and place
the order. The
manufacturer will
normally make the
window ¼” smaller,
so give them your exact measurements.
Windows for manufactured homes are often ordered with no
extension jams (above right). Because wall thicknesses are
not standard, jams would have to be cut or planed flush to
the wall in order for the trim to fit correctly. If you happen
to have access to a power planer, extension jams (right) and
new window trim would be a good-looking option. If you
wish to minimize the work, order the windows without
extension jams, although some of the facing still may need
to be adjusted or redone.
The following installation instructions apply to all
windows that have a nailing flange.
3) Remove trim boards (if any) from around the outside
of the window.
7-1
4) Remove the window by backing out the screws all
around the flange (far right picture).
5) Cut back the
caulk with a
utility knife and
then remove the
window by
prying it out from
the wall (right).
Repair any rotted
wood discovered
in the window
frame.
6) Add
weatherstripping
to flange of new
window. You
could also use
caulk or putty
tape (far right
picture).
7) Set new window
into the opening
(right).
8) With the window
in position and
squared-up,
drive new
screws through
the nailing
flange into the
siding or
sheathing of the
home (bottom
right).
9) Re-install any
trim, wash and
enjoy! (right).
7-2
Replacing a leaky rotten bay window
Do you have a bay window that's leaking? If its been leaking long enough, the wood around
it is probably also rotten. In most manufactured homes the window actually isn't a true bay
window, but rather 3-4 windows assembled to resemble a bay window.
Those who own a skylight know that someday it will leak. The same can be said for a bay
window. So once the 'novelty' of having a bay window wears off and the repairs are major, it's
time to consider something more practically, such as a big picture window or a real bay window.
Any type of window can be used. If you’re reframing the window from scratch, you can save
money by picking up a window in stock from your local home improvement store. Purchasing a
window without the jams is best.
Step 1 - Remove the old existing windows by
backing out the screws from around
the flange and pry out.
Step 2 - Cut out the framework and wall of the
old bay window.
7-3
Step 3 - Frame in the opening for the new
window. As shown, frame the wall
straight across eliminating the 'bow'. If your
installing a pre-assembled bay window, it
too will fit into a straight wall. Just follow the
instructions that come with the
window. Be sure to build a proper-sized
header. Probably a double 2x6 header will be
more than sufficient although a double 2x4
header would work if headroom is tight.
Step 4 - Once the window is framed, install
new siding and inside paneling.
In this particular example, we installed new
siding across the entire front of the home.
Same with the inside paneling -- we did the
whole wall to make it look right. One tip for
installing siding or paneling is to cover the
window opening, then cut the opening out for
a perfect fit.
Step 5 - Apply weatherstripping to the flange
of the window and slide window into
opening. Check to be sure that the window
functions properly then screw into place along
the flange.
Step 6 - Apply finishing touches such as trim
on the outside. Also finish
out the window opening on the inside. Hang a
blind or curtain and enjoy!
7-4
Replacing Glass in a Vinyl Window
For at least the last 10 years, manufactured
homes have been built with double insulated
vinyl windows. When a window breaks, most
of the time it’s just as easy to replace the
whole window. But do you really need to?
What if it’s a big expensive picture window
that needs fixed? You may be surprised to
know that replacing the glass is actually easier
than replacing the window. These details
show replacing the center piece of glass in the
picture window shown to the right. The same
set of instructions applies for most all vinyl
windows – often referred to as singlehung or
doublehung windows.
1) First, order new glass for your brand of window. The glass will come as two pieces sealed
together. Don’t break this seal.
2) Begin by removing the vinyl strips from
around the outside of the window (right
picture). Start at one end. Lift the strip up
and out. Once started, it’ll come right out.
Remove the strips from all 4 sides.
3) Then from the inside, work a putty knife
between the frame and the glass. This is to
break the seal. For the most part, the glass is
sealed in place with a type of double-sided
tape. The putty knife will separate the tape
from the frame. Have a helper on the outside
ready to grab the glass. On bigger windows, I
like to use handles with suction cups to help
maneuver the big sheets of glass. I bought
mine for a few dollars at one of those import
truckload tool sales.
7-5
4) Once the inside seal is broke, lift the window out
(right picture).
5) With the window removed, you’ll notice some
small shims at the bottom (picture below). Be sure
those shims stay in place for the new window!
Remove any of the old seal that’s still stuck to the
frame.
6) Test fit the new glass into the opening to be sure of
no problems. Then remove the strip exposing the
adhesive (right picture). Set the glass into the frame
and center.
7) Reinstall the vinyl strips in the reverse order that
you removed them (right picture). Start at one end
and push them into place. Try not to use any tools that
may damage the glass (like screwdrivers – one slip
and oops!). If necessary, use a rubber mallet to help
tap them in.
7-6
The whole procedure should have taken you
around an hour. Wash and enjoy!
Doors
Unlike windows, exterior doors are another game when it
comes to finding ones that fit.
Most all manufactured homes have doors shorter than the
standard door available at any home improvement store.
Ordering shorter doors and storm doors can easily cost
double compared to a standard door. Often times the
easiest and least inexpensive solution to replacing a door
may be to cut the existing door opening higher. This
works well if you have the extra headroom above the door.
So, if a manufactured home has the extra headroom, why
wasn’t the door opening cut taller at the factory? The
answer is ‘aesthetics.’ From a sales standpoint, a door
appearing to almost touch the roof makes the home look
shorter and smaller. The picture to the right shows a
standard door added to a manufactured home. Notice
how close it comes to the roof.
If you’re looking to replace a door with the same-size
door and also add a storm door, consider a door/stormdoor combo (pictured left). In a combo everything
comes pre-assembled as one. To install, simply slide
the whole unit into the door opening. The downfall is
that if you ever need to change or replace your storm
door, you will need one to fit that particular
combination.
7-7
Check the Floors
If a door has been bad for too long, chances
are good that the floor in front of the door is
also bad. If bad, it’s easiest to repair the floor
while the door is removed.
When repairing the floor in front of a door, cut
out the entire section in front of the door
including some area on each side of the door.
Don’t just cut the bad spot because in about a
year another bad spot will probably show up.
On average, the area you cut should be about
48-64” wide x 16-24” deep.
Once the old flooring is cut away, add blocks
around the edges of the floor to prevent any
give at the seams.
Then cut a piece of plywood and screw in
place. You will use either 5/8” or ¾”
plywood. When in doubt, use the ¾”.
Top picture shows the door removed and the
bad floor. The middle picture shows the bad
flooring cut away and the blocks installed.
The bottom picture shows the plywood
screwed down. The floor is now repaired and
you can proceed with installing the new door.
7-8
Door Installation
Installation depends upon what type of door you have.
If you have the typical house-type door, slide the door
into the opening, shim it square and screw in place.
Remove one screw from each hinge and drive a 3”
screw through the hole. Also drive about three screws
on the latch side of the frame. It’s not necessary to
drive any screws through the top or bottom of the door
frame.
If you have a mobile-home type door that swings to
the outside, that type of door will have a flange all the
way around it. Apply caulk or weather stripping to the
flange and set the door in the opening and make it
square. Then drive screws through the flange. Start
by driving one screw in each corner.
Interior Door Adjustment
Do you have one of those manufactured homes that seem to shift a little from season to season?
If so, you probably have interior doors that latch in the summer but not in the winter (or vice
versa). Some of you may solve that problem by moving the latch with the seasons -- sort of like
changing your clocks twice a year.
If you want your interior doors to latch all year long,
try this tip.
Beg, borrow or steal a Dremel tool. Put in a grinding
wheel and make that door latch just
a bit longer. You may then need to use a chisel and
remove a bit more of the wood. Now your door
should latch all year long!
7-9
Water Heater Door
Many older homes have outside doors to access their
water heater. If your access door looks like the door in
the picture to the right, you’re due for a replacement!
Most water heater doors are 60 inches tall. Widths vary
from 20-23”. When figuring your door, measure the
rough opening – not the door itself.
Installation
Water heater doors are fairly simply to install. First
remove the old door by removing the screws from the
frame. Cut any caulk and pry out the door.
Then apply weatherstripping or caulk to the new frame
and set the door in the opening. Screw in place.
Can’t find the water heater?
If you don’t see an exterior access door to your water heater, then the door is located inside the
home. In your utility room or bedroom closet should be a panel leading to your water heater.
Most likely you’ll have to remove several screws to remove the panel and access the water heater.
7-10
VINYL SIDING
Installation Tips for Manufactured Homes
Chapter 8
_______________________________________________________
Dozens of books exist on installing vinyl siding, so it doesn’t make much sense to repeat that
same information here. Instead we’ll offer some tips particular to manufactured homes. Vinyl has
become the #1 siding choice among homeowners; it looks nice, never needs painting, washes
easy and repairs are generally quick and simple.
Hardboard Woes
In a relatively short period of time, homes sided with 4x8
sheets of hardboard siding are experiencing varying degrees of
rotting (right picture). It seems that no amount of paint or
caulk can stop the rotting process. Rotting is noticed first
around nails and at seams and tends to rot from the back to the
front. With the problems of hardboard siding, many
homeowners are opting to upgrade to the maintenance-free
vinyl.
Homeowners often ask whether hardboard siding should be
removed, or can vinyl siding be installed directly over it?
Vinyl siding looks best if installed over a flat surface.
Hardboard siding tends to warp and wave as it rots, and those
waves may be noticed in the vinyl siding. But really, why
would any homeowner wish to trap rotten, moldy siding in the walls of their house? The right
way is to remove the old hardboard siding. Once removed, check and update the insulation as
necessary. This is also a good time to consider upgrading the windows and doors as they’ll also
have to be removed anyway to do a proper job.
To remove the old hardboard siding, first cut at the roofline using a
reciprocating saw. Be careful not to cut the wall studs or anything
else. Then loosen the siding from the bottom and try pulling a sheet
up. If you’re having a good day, the whole sheet will pop off. If
you’re having a normal day, the sheet will have to be removed in
small sections. Bending and breaking it from nail line to nail line
may be the best method of removal.
Metal Siding
One type of siding that has really stood the test of time is the
sheets of metal siding. You have to admit that even though it
now looks dated, that old metal siding lasts forever. Over time
the biggest problem with metal siding is that water begins to leak
in around the screws.
8-1
Should it be removed before residing? If you wish to check and upgrade your insulation, the
answer is yes. If not, you may be able to go over it with sheathing then siding, but think twice as
the metal is not hard to remove. The downfall of siding over the metal is that you’ll have a
slightly thicker exterior wall to deal with when it comes to your roof edge and resetting your
doors and windows. For the best results, remove the old metal siding.
Sheathing
Vinyl siding must be installed over an approved sheathing board such as ½” OSB or plywood. In
the early days vinyl siding was installed over buffalo board, a black spongy material that has no
strength. Installing vinyl siding over buffalo board automatically voided the warranty on the
vinyl siding with its manufacturer. If your vinyl siding has ripples in it, it may have been
installed over buffalo board. (Metal and hardboard siding are attached directly to the wall studs
with no sheathing or an insulating board at most.)
To install sheathing, windows and doors will have to be removed. Since the new sheathing,
insulating board and siding will add extra thickness to the exterior wall, the windows and doors
will have to be refaced to accommodate that thickness as the old facing inside the window frame
won’t be wide enough. Facing is defined as decorative boards or paneling. Facing is also used as
the window ledge in some homes.
One of the biggest questions asked when residing an
older home is: what do you do when you reach the
top? On newer homes with a soffit overhang, you
simply finish as you would with any home by nailing a
piece of j-channel or under sill
trim (small photo right) at the
top of the wall, cut and fit the
last piece of vinyl siding inside
the trim piece and caulk along
the top. But on homes with no
overhang (large right picture),
the solution is not so simple, as the siding will not tuck under the roof. Do nothing and water will
run behind the siding.
If your home is typical of most older homes and has a
small v-gutter, then the solution is to install siding up
to that gutter. Using a reciprocating saw, carefully cut
the old siding away by running the blade of the saw
just underneath the gutter. Install a metal z-strip or
drip edge so it tucks up under the v-gutter.
(The photo to the right shows a metal z-strip being
installed on a home in which the owner chose not to
remove the old siding.)
8-2
After the z-strip is installed up behind the v-gutter and
underneath any old remaining siding that’s behind the
gutter, new sheathing is installed, under sill trim is
nailed in place and the siding butts up to it. Be sure to
caulk where the j-channel butts the z-strip. The
purpose of the z-strip is to help ensure that water
won’t run down behind the siding. When working
with vinyl siding, j-channel, which is thicker than
undersill trim, is used at the top of the walls along roof
peaks and undersill trim is used at the top of the walls
along the flat areas of the roof.
If you don’t have a v-gutter to work with, then you have two options. The first is to remove the
screws along the roof edge in 7-8’ increments. Then tuck the z-strip up under the roof. Apply a
bead of clear silicone under the edge of the roof. Screw the roof back down before continuing to
the next section. If you’re uncomfortable with removing the screws along the edge of your roof,
then the other option is to simply screw a piece of 1” wide j-channel along the top edge. Then
apply a thick bead of clear silicone where the j-channel meets the roof and hope for the best.
Check this seam every year.
Siding Tips
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Consider upgrading your windows and doors at the time you install your siding since
they’ll have to be removed anyway.
Remove the skirting and bottom trim boards to make room for the starter strip.
Insulating board behind the siding will give you an extra barrier against the cold.
Do not nail vinyl siding tight. Siding needs to expand and contract with the seasons.
A good pair of tin snips and a plywood blade work the best for cutting siding. Do not cut
siding when frozen as it may chip and crack.
Always keep a few extra pieces of siding in case a repair ever has to be made. Siding
styles and colors change often, so don’t depend upon your local home improvement store
to stock your style forever.
Check out the numerous websites on the internet which offer vinyl siding installation
instructions.
8-3
8-4
CEILINGS
repairing or rebuilding
Chapter 9
_______________________________________________________
Homes that don’t have sheetrock ceilings
probably have tile or ceiling board. The
ceiling tiles are generally 16” or 4’ wide and
run the width of the home. Some types of
ceiling tiles are held up with screws and
rosettes. Other types are screwed up at the
seams and then the seams are covered with a
plastic spline.
REPAIRING
If the tile has become wet due to a ceiling leak
and has sagged (left picture), the sag will
generally not come out. Very slight sags may
be corrected by wetting the tile with a spray
bottle, pushing up and holding for several
days. No guarantee that it will work. Below
is another way to fix the sagging seam that’s
pictured to the left.
A more forceful option is to push the panels
up at the seams using boards. At the seams of
each panel is a truss. The boards can be
pulled into place using long screws. Either
the ceiling panels will pull up into place or
break (depending upon how deep the sag
was). Of course to make everything look
symmetrical, you could add these boards to
every seam in the room. Paint and stain them
before screwing them up. The picture to the
left shows the sagging seam (pictured above)
pulled and secured together with the board.
9-1
REPLACING
When a ceiling tile becomes damaged,
replacing it can be a real headache. The first
headache is finding ceiling tile to match.
Many types of tile are unavailable, and if it
were available installation is a real challenge
due to the length. In fact, just getting a ceiling
tile into a room may be challenging. So if you
can’t replace the tile(s), your only option is to
build a new ceiling. Three types of ceilings
are commonly installed in manufactured
homes – suspended, sheetrock and paneled.
Suspended Ceilings
Suspended ceilings are tile set in a grid work.
Tile sizes are either 2’x2’ or 2’x4’. All kinds
of textures are available. The suspended
ceiling can be installed just below the existing
ceiling. However, any of the old ceiling that
is loose or hanging should be removed to
prevent it from falling or pushing on the new
suspended ceiling. To install, first hang your
grids with wire fastened to the old ceiling then
drop in the tile. There is no special
instructions to installing a false ceiling. Most
likely the store you buy the grid and tiles from will have details.
Sheetrock ceilings
When installing sheetrock ceilings, weight should be a consideration. In normal construction
5/8” thick sheetrock is hung on ceilings because it won’t sag. However, 5/8” thick sheetrock is
heavy and generally hung on joists 16 inches apart. Using ½” sheetrock would be much lighter
and less apt to cause roof problems, but would require joists or supports every 12 inches.
This is accomplished by screwing furring
strips (1x4 boards) across the ceiling joists 12
inches apart (left picture). The strips can be
screwed over the existing ceiling assuming
you have a flat surface. Or the existing ceiling
can be removed, the insulation updated if
desired, then the furring strips screwed up.
Any dips in the furring strips can be correct by
shimming before screwing. Doublecheck the
flatness of the furring by pulling strings from
side to side and corner to corner. If the gap
9-2
changes by more than a ¼” between the string and the furring strip, adjust the furring strips to
even the gap. The better job you do of leveling the furring strips, the better your ceiling will look
once completed.
Once the furring strips are leveled and screwed in place, ½” sheetrock can then be installed. First
apply a bead of construction adhesive to the furring strips, then screw-up the sheetrock carefully
setting the screws below the surface but not breaking the paper. Then tape the seams using selfstick mesh tape (other types of tape are available but the mesh tape is easiest to work with and
least likely to crack.) Then apply three coats of joint compound (mud). After applying the first
coat of mud, allow it to dry then lightly sand. The second coat should be applied wider than the
first coat and the third coat applied wider yet. Allow each coat to dry and lightly sand.
Lightweight joint compound is easiest to sand. Finally, apply a coat of sheetrock primer, paint
then texture. Mix paint in with the texture (see below) to avoid a final coat of paint.
Texturing Tips
One mistake beginners make is assuming that texture will hide a bad taping job. This is NOT
true. When taping and mudding, take the time so that when your done the seams are not visible.
For the beginner, this will mean a lot of sanding.
Spraying on texture is a much easier task than mudding. If you
have access to an air compressor, then all you need is to purchase a
$60 texture sprayer (which looks like a big bucket). To mix
texture, first decide whether you want fine, medium or course
texture. Dump about a half a bag of dry texture into a 5 gallon
bucket. Add 1 gallon of ceiling white paint and mix using a half
inch drill with a mixing paddle. Add water until you get the
desired textured. The texture should resemble soft ice cream. Let
the texture mixture sit in the bucket for an hour, occasionally
stirring. This ensures that the paint soaks into the texture giving it
a uniform color. You may need to occasionally add water a few
ounces at a time. While waiting for the texture to soak, cover the
walls and floor with plastic.
Charge your air compressor and set the pressure to 80 pounds. The bigger the compressor the
better. You should have at least an 11 gallon tank on your compressor. Pour some texture
mixture into the hopper. Practice by spraying on a scrap piece of drywall. Get a feeling for the
movement. If the texture doesn’t come out of the gun very well, dump the hopper and add some
more water to the 5 gallon bucket. When you begin spraying, start out by constantly moving the
sprayer. As you get the feel of it, go back and spray more texture. The beauty of spraying texture
is that if you don’t like what you’ve done, simply scrape it off and spray again. As the air
pressure drops in the air tank, pause and let it catch up. A compressor running constantly may
overheat, so spray with common sense, or rent an actual texture sprayer.
Don’t want to hassle with spraying texture or don’t have an air compressor, then check out the
many roll-on options available at your home improvement center. You can roll-on texture, or
apply paint with texture in it.
9-3
Paneled Ceilings
“Yuck, paneling,” may be your first thought. But if
you don’t think you have the ‘touch’ to make a
textured sheetrock ceiling look good, you may get
good results with paneling. In fact, with all the
choices of paneling available today, you could get
pretty darn creative decorating your ceiling with
paneling.
Similar to hanging ½” sheetrock, the first step to installing paneling is to screw up furring strips
across the rafters every 12 inches. Since paneling is so thin, the furring strips are a must or the
paneling will sag.
Once the furring strips are leveled and screwed in place, the paneling can then be installed. First
apply a bead of construction adhesive to the furring strips, then nail up the paneling using
finishing nails. When working overhead, an air finishing nailer can be a real life saver.
When the paneling is up, the seams can then be decorated with stained rough-cut wood or
whatever creative flair you can come up with. If you don’t want to use wood paneling, there’s a
host of other options including paneling that looks like bead board; check with your local home
improvement store for more ideas.
9-4
METAL ROOF MAINTENANCE
Stop the Rattle, Seal the Leaks
Chapter 10
_______________________________________________________
Probably one of the most misunderstood repairs on a manufactured home is sealing a leaky metal
roof. The standard practice is to paint on a roof coating. Then a year or two later, do it again
because of more leaks. In fact the whole process becomes such a routine that many homeowners’
think it’s just a part of owning a manufactured home with a metal roof. The main purpose of a
roof coating, whether white or metallic, is not to seal leaks (surprise!), but to give the roof a
reflective surface and perhaps protect the metal from rusting. Roof coatings are very thin and tear
easily when the seams expand and contract with the movement of the roof. But there’s a better
way, or should we say, the right way.
In a nutshell, the best way to coat a roof is to first apply a neoprene or polyurethane sealant to all
the seams, let cure, then apply a roof coating.
Proper Sealing
Before applying a seam sealant or roof coating, be sure that the surface is clean and free of dirt
and grime. Any loose coatings should be removed. Often coatings flake off or become loose
because the surface underneath was not clean to start with. All old coatings on seams and around
vents should be removed and coated with the neoprene or polyurethane. To remove, use a scraper
or wire brush in a drill or grinder. Use the wire brush with caution so as not to grind through the
metal.
The wrong alternative is to use a mesh-type covering over the cracks. Some companies sell a
product in which you lay down a layer of mesh tape then cover it with a compound. It works fine
until the edges of the tape work loose and before you know it, the whole strip has worked loose.
The right alternative is to apply a high quality
flashing sealant directly to the seams, around
vents and along the seam at the v-gutter.
Sealants such as neoprene, polyurethane and
some silicones are perfect because they
strongly adhere, won’t dry or crack (like the
picture below), and flex 300% or more so they
won’t separate as the roof moves
10-1
Once all the seams are sealed and cured, then you can
coat the roof if so desired. The author tends to prefer
a white elastomeric coating. To apply, simply pour
the coating from the bucket onto the roof. Then
spread the coating using a roller with a long handle.
Keep track of your coverage. If you spread the
coating too thick, you may run out of material. If you
spread it too thin, it won’t last as long. Instructions on
the bucket should indicate the proper coverage.
Silencing the Rattle
For metal roofs that rattle in the wind, having them
restretched is the proper way to deal with the problem.
However, most of us don’t wish to spend that kind of
money.
The next best solution to a rattling roof is to install
rumble buttons. Rumble buttons are big rubber and
metal washers with screws that are driven through the
roof into the rafters. The best pattern for installing the
buttons is to run 2-3 rows on each side of the roof,
screwing them into every other rafter, and staggering
the rafters for each row as illustrated below.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Finding a rafter is probably the most difficult part of installing
rumble buttons. Start by feeling for them with your feet. Once
a rafter is found, others may be found by measuring over either
16 or 24 inches. As a note, don’t be surprised if the rafter
spacing measurements aren’t even across the roof.
Finally, if you’re uncomfortable with drilling all those screws
in your roof, their are two other choices. One is adding hot tar
and gravel to your roof, but this would make future repairs a
real nightmare. The other choice is about 50 old tires, which
look gaudy and will add a lot of weight to the roof.
10-2
Rubber Roofs
Your manufactured home has a metal roof. It also leaks, and you're tired of it! You've been
contemplating a rubber roof, but don't know much about it.
Generally, rubber roofs are available in two forms — seam and seamless. You may also see other
types of roofing systems advertised, but they generally fall under the seam or seamless category.
A seamless rubber roof, as the name implies, has no seams. Rubber in a liquid state is poured or
sprayed onto the roof curing to a one-piece membrane with no seams. Before the rubber is
poured, flashing and roof seams are sealed with neoprene rubber. The cost for the seamless
rubber roof range anywhere from $8/gallon to $100/gallon. It is my opinion that a seamless roof
is no more than a painted roof coating no matter how much is spent on a gallon of roof coating.
Sure, the higher-dollar rubber coatings will probably last a little longer than the inexpensive
coatings, but its still a thin roof coating.
A seamed rubber roof is a rubber membrane
(EPDM) stretched over the roof. If one sheet of
membrane cannot cover the roof, then it must be
seamed together. The membrane is then attached
just over the edge of the roof using a termination
bar. A termination bar is simply a strip of metal that
screws over the edge of the rubber to hold it in
place. The EPDM roof is generally thicker than the
seamless roof; therefore, much more durable. One
disadvantage of the rubber membrane is that if it
would tear, the tears would then tend to run. New products with threads woven into the rubber,
such as a polyvinyl membrane, are helping cure that problem.
To be frank, a corrugated metal roof (chapter 11) is a more durable, longer-lasting solution than a
rubber roof for about the same price.
10-3
10-4
AN INEXPENSIVE METAL ROOF
Install It New Yourself
Chapter 11
_______________________________________________________
What? Me install a metal roof myself? You gotta be kidding! Nope, we’re not kidding. If you
can run a drill and a saw, you can install a new metal roof that will last you 20+ years with very
little maintenance.
If you’ve got an older manufactured home that has a
metal roof, it’s probably been sealed and resealed and
then sealed a few more times (like the picture to the
left). And now it’s time to seal it again, where will it
ever stop!! Guess what, it won’t stop. Once that
bottom layer of sealant starts to work loose, the top
layers don’t do much good. The only way to remedy
that situation is to scrape the roof clean, and that’s a
lot of work!
figure 1 - before
Using the following the steps outlined in this booklet,
but a roof that’s sturdier, reflects the sun and provides
some extra insulating value.
The picture to the left shows a new finished roof.
With a helper or two, you should be able to finish this
roof in two days. Experienced crews can do it in a
day. In most cases, material cost will be less than
$1000.
figure 2 - after
Materials and Tools
All materials for this project can be purchased at any local lumberyard. This chapter will show
you how to install the basic simple metal roof. You can also go as far as to add eaves, soffits and
gutters. This chapter doesn’t cover those items in detail, but at the end there is a photographic
view of one such method.
Before gathering the materials, first measure the length and width of your roof. The metal you
will be purchasing is a corrugated metal. This is the same metal used on roofs and exterior walls
of many commercial buildings and pole barns. The corrugated metal is available in many colors,
but for roofs white is best. The metal comes in various lengths and can be special ordered to the
nearest inch if so desired. Most lumberyards stock the metal in lengths of 12, 14, 16 and 18 feet.
Each sheets covers an area 3’ wide. If your roof is 14’ x 67’, then you’ll need to purchase 23
11-1
sheets of 16’ metal. Even though your roof is only 14’ wide, you’ll have enough extra for a 3-4”
overhang on each side.
Materials:
• White corrugated sheet metal.
• 1 box of 3” white sheet metal screws with neoprene washers.
• 1 box of 3½” deck screws.
• Enough ½” fan-fold insulation to cover the entire roof. 4x8 sheets of ½” or thicker
insulating board will also work.
• 1x4 boards in 12’ or longer lengths for furring strips (54 boards for a 16x80, 44 for a
14x70).
• Foam closure strips, two per sheet of metal.
• 32 feet of metal corner (gable) trim.
• 2-4 tubes of neoprene rubber roof cement.
Tools:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
drill (cordless 12 volt or bigger works best)
circular saw
tin snips
tape measure
marking pencil
metal-cutting blade for circular saw (or put in an old blade backwards)
¼ nut driver for drill
bit for drill for deck screws
chalk line
STEP 1 – INSULATION
Starting at one end of the home, lay down 3 or 4 rows
of insulation. Fan-fold insulation is nice because it
simply unfolds across the home. Cut to fit and ducttape the seams. Working in small sections at a time is
safer in case wind or inclement weather comes up.
figure 3 – unfolding the fanfold
insulation
11-2
STEP 2 – 1x4 FURRING STRIPS
Lay down the 1x4 furring strips. The 1x4 furring
strips run lengthwise (end to end) across the rafters.
The first and last rows are placed along the edge of the
roof. Then space the rows every 2 feet or so apart. If
you have a peaked roof, a row of 1x4’s also needs to
run at the top on each side of the peaked roof.
figure 4 – lay down rows of furring
strips every 2 feet.
The furring strips are then screwed into the rafters. Most rafters are 2 feet apart. The best way to
locate the rafters is to feel with your feet. Once the rafters are located along each edge, snap a
chalk line across the roof to mark the boards for screwing. Screw the boards into the rafters using
3½” deck screws.
figure 5 – feel for the rafters, snap chalk line along rafters, screw 1x4 to rafters
STEP 3 – CORRUGATED METAL
First decide how much you want the metal to
overhang the roof. If you already have gutters on the
home, it should hang to the middle of the gutters.
Otherwise, a 3-4” overhang should suffice. Again,
measure the width of your roof and add for the
overhang (6-8” when including both sides). Cut with
a circular saw using a metal-cutting blade or an old
blade installed backwards.
figure 6 – cut the metal
roofing to length
11-3
Position the first piece of metal roofing into place.
Adjust the roofing so you have an even amount of
overhang on both sides. The first piece should be
flush with the end of the home. Add an inside closure
strip to each end of the metal.
figures 7 & 8 – position metal,
add inside closure strips
Important: To prevent leaks, the metal can only overlap one way.
On one edge of the metal you will find writing. The edge with the
writing must lap underneath the edge with no writing.
figure 9 – proper overlap
of corrugated metal.
Once you’re sure the first sheet is positioned straight
and square, screw it into each furring strips. 4 screws
across each row should be sufficient (or whatever the
manufacturer recommends) which works out to about
every other ridge (figure 10). Use screws that have
neoprene washers and screw on top of the ridges. At
each end of the metal, drive a screw into every ridge.
Don’t over tighten.
figure 10 – drive a screw into the top of
every ridge along the ends and every
other ridge in the middle
TIP: An easy way to start a screw into metal is to first give the screw a quick ‘push’ with your
drill before engaging the trigger. If your drill has a high and low speed, use the high speed. The
faster you can spin the screw, the easier it will drive in (figure 11).
11-4
figure 11 – correct method of driving screws into the ridges of the metal
Lay down the second sheet, making sure that the edge
without writing is overlapping the edge with
writing on the first sheet. Insert the closure strips into
the ends and then screw it down like you did the first
sheet (figure 12). After you've done the first couple
sheets, you won't believe how easy this is.
figure 12 – continue laying &
screwing sheets of metal.
STEP 4 – VENTS
You’ll just get rolling and before you know it you’ll
run into a vent. No problem. For straight vents such
as sewer vents, simply take careful measurements, cut
a hole and set a sheet of metal down over it. Then seal
around the vent with long-lasting neoprene. If the
vent has a rubber boot around it, then try to remove it
and replace with a new one.
figure 13 – cut opening for vent
and seal with neoprene
11-5
Besides removing the old rubber boot, some vents will need to
be extended (figure 13). As a general rule, vents should be
extended above the roof line to function properly. To do this,
glue a coupler onto the vent and add another piece of pipe.
Once the roof is completed, adding
a new rubber boot over the pipe is
also a good idea. The boot pictured
to the left has flexible flanges, which
will conform to the corrugated metal.
Also the top opening can be cut to
accommodate any size of pipe.
Figure 13 -- extending a roof vent.
Furnace and other wide-topped vents can pose a little more of a challenge. First, take careful
measurements and cut an opening in the metal just big enough to slip down over the top. Then
cut two pieces of flashing from the metal scraps.
Shape each piece to fit snugly around the bottom of
the vent. The two pieces should overlap in the middle.
Be sure the top piece overlaps the bottom. Seal the
entire underside of the flashings with neoprene and set
in place. Then seal around the vent with neoprene
(figure 14).
figure 14 – cut pieces of flashing
to fit snuggly around wide-top
vents.
Note: For some vents or roof jacks, such as furnace and water heater vents, it’s probably wisest
to remove the vent and re-install it after the corrugated roof is in place. This would simplify
future repairs that would involve removing or replacing the vent. Most vents are simply removed
by unscrewing and lifting up. When re-installing, apply a generous bead of neoprene under the
base and around the edges.
STEP 5 – HEIGHT CHANGES
Some older manufactured homes have a section of the roof that’s higher than the rest. Although
common sense will need to be used, the metal will easily bend over even the sharpest changes in
ceiling height. Some trim may need to be used along the edges.
11-6
STEP 6 – GABLE TRIM
Install gable trim on each end using screws every foot or so on the
top and bottom. This gives the peak a finished look and prevents
the wind from ever getting underneath.
figures 15 – gable trim on the ends make
a nice finishing touch
PITCHED ROOFS
If your roof is not nearly flat or slightly domed, then
you have a peaked roof. The only difference is that
you’ll span your roof with two pieces of metal
instead of one. Where the pieces meet at the peak,
you’ll need to add outside closure strips and a ridge
cap as illustrated in figures 16. Screw the cap in
place by driving screws along both edges of the cap
into each rib of the metal.
figures 16 – a ridge cap covers the peak of a pitched roof.
11-7
JOB COMPLETED!
As mentioned in the beginning, doing the roof in 12’
sections is the safest. Once you’re done with the first
12’ section, start over on the next and keep going
until you’re done! About the only maintenance your
new roof should need is to check the neoprene
around the vents. Neoprene is long lasting, so it
should be many years before having to worry about
it.
figure 17 – nice job!
Adding an Overhang and Soffits to Your Mobile Home
The overhang is pre-built and screwed-up in place.
This picture shows the construction of the overhang on
the front without the soffit board yet in place.
This picture shows the back with the soffit board in
place and lined-up with the sides.
11-8
This picture shows how the roof edging, fascia and
soffit are installed. The roof edging will need to be
installed before the metal is put on the roof. The fascia
and soffit are metal or vinyl, a good choice as they
will never need painting.
All done!
11-9
11-10
CEILING FAN
Installation
Chapter 12
_______________________________________________________
How many of you have either wished or tried unsuccessfully to convert
an existing ceiling light into a ceiling fan? For those of you who have
tried, your biggest hurdle was most likely how to support the weight of
a ceiling fan. Let's start from the beginning.
When installing a ceiling fan, first shut off the power to the light fixture
and remove the shade and light bulb. Next, locate the two screws that are securing the light
fixture to the electrical box. Loosen these screws by several turns. It's not normally necessary to
remove these screws. Once loose, turn the fixture until the screw heads line-up with the holes.
The fixture should then hang down exposing the wires. Unscrew the wire nuts to finish removing
the light fixture.
Now take a close look at the electrical box. If you are fortunate enough to have your electrical
box secured to a rafter or some other solid support, then you can skip the rest of this article and
go install your ceiling fan according to the manufacturer's instructions. However, if your mobile
home is like most and you find that the only thing supporting your electrical box is your ceiling
panel or sheetrock, then read on.
You know that if you try hanging a ceiling fan from an unsupported electrical box, soon your fan
will be kissing the floor. The best way to support a ceiling fan is to nail a 2x8 board between two
rafters and attach your electrical box to that board. But, as you guessed, about the only way to do
that is to tear apart your ceiling, and you don't want to do that. There is another solution.
A special bar is available from most any hardware or home
improvement store. The adjustable bar acts as a brace between two
rafters giving the necessary support to hold up a heavy ceiling fan or
chandelier.
To install the bar, first remove the electrical box. Next, insert the bar
into the hole in the ceiling left by the electrical box. Center the bar
over the hole and between the rafters. Turn the bar and it will begin
to expand and soon tighten itself between the rafters. On the end of
the bar are some big spikes that will dig into the rafters. Once you've hand-tightened the bar, give
it a turn or two with a wrench. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you may spread your rafters causing
damage to your ceiling or roof.
Along with the bar will be a u-bolt. Install this u-bolt over the bar, then run the electrical wire
back through the electrical box, fasten the electrical box to the u-bolt and hang your ceiling fan
according to the manufacturer's instructions.
12-1
12-2
PLUMBING ADD-ONS
Fixture Shut-Off, Main Shut-Off, Exterior Faucet
Chapter 13
_______________________________________________________
Rule Number One
Water can cause a lot of damage to your home, yet knowing the location of a simple shutoff valve
could save you thousands of dollars in damage. Twice a year you should have a household drill
for shutting off the water in case of a blown pipe. Think of it like a fire drill: all family members
should know how to shut off the water. Your chances of having a pipe burst are much greater
than having a fire.
You don’t need to be a plumber to shut off the water valve. You will not hurt anything by
shutting it off, but you don’t want to be doing the laundry or washing dishes. If you have an
electric water heater, shut off the breaker to prevent burning out a heating element, and turn the
gas valve to pilot on a gas water heater. Then again, if its an emergency, I wouldn’t worry about
what fixtures are on, just shut the water off! If by chance you don’t have water in your electric
water heater and burn out a heating element, it’s much easier to replace a $15 heating element
than the floors and walls of your home.
Locating and Testing the Main Water Shutoff Valve
Most mobile homes will have at least two main shutoff valves. One shut-off valve should be
located in the area of the water heater. You may see several shutoff valves in this area. The main
one should be located near the floor.
To test, turn on a hot and cold faucet in your bathroom or kitchen. Turn the shutoff valve off. If
both the hot and cold water quit running, you’ve found it. If not, look some more. Check to be
sure that the shutoff valve is functioning properly and not frozen or leaking. If it’s leaking you
may try slightly tightening the packing nut found underneath the handle. If you have a ball-valve
type and it leaks, you’ll have to replace it. A ball-valve type of shut-off has no packing nut and
general has a long handle that shuts off the water by moving ¼ of a turn.
In most mobile homes, you probably have to remove a panel to access the water heater. The
access panel may even be located on the outside of the home. Be sure this panel can be quickly
removed for easy access to the water shut-off valve. If you can't find a shut-off valve inside the
water heater room, then it's probably underneath the home.
All mobile homes have shut-off valves located either under or next to the home. In many older
mobile homes, this may be the only main water shut-off valve. Locate this valve and be sure it
works and is easy to access. If access is difficult and this is your only means of shutting off the
water, then consider installing another shut-off valve inside your home. Having an inside valve is
a smart idea. If you live in a cold climate, the outside shutoff valve could freeze leaving you no
way to shut the water off to your home in case of an emergency. The little bit of trouble it would
take to install an inside valve could pay you back many thousands of dollars.
13-1
Installing an Accessible Main Shut-Off Valve
For convenience and safety, installing an accessible main shut-off valve makes a lot of sense. In
other words, it’s a way of shutting off the water without having to crawl under the home.
Method 1
The easiest way to add a main shut-off valve is to simply
install it at the point the main waterline enters the home which
is normally in the water heater room. This will not work if the
waterline tees off before entering the home. Then again,
maybe you’ll already discover a shut-off valve at this point.
The next step is to make it easily accessible. A small access
door is a good idea. The door should not be blocked, able to
be opened without using any tools, and be labeled. Special
plumbing access doors can be
purchased, or even a door from
an old fuse box will work.
Method 2
If there’s no room for a shut-off valve in the water heater room, or the water heater room is not
easily accessible (outside access, for example), then the main shut-off valve should be placed in
another location near the water heater closet. Oftentimes the water heater closet is very near a
bathroom. Locating the shut-off valve in a bathroom cabinet may be a good option.
The next trick is getting the shut-off valve into the bathroom cabinet. Most likely the main
waterline already comes up into the water heater room up through the floor, so it will have to be
moved. To do that, cut the waterline from inside the water heater room and pull back down
through the floor. If you’re mulling over the option of installing a waterline without a heat tape
(chapter 17), now would be the time to consider it. Not having to use an electric pipe-heating
tape would eliminate the worry of waking up or coming home to a frozen waterline due to a failed
heat tape (chapter 18).
Bring the main waterline up into the area where the new main shut-off will be located by drilling
a hole through the floor. Install a shut-off valve and then extend waterline over to the water
heater with an extra piece of pipe. Be sure the heat tape is properly wrapped and plugged back in
(chapter 18).
Installing an Exterior Faucet
Have no outside faucet? Or worse yet, your outside faucet is underneath the home and has to be
heat taped or drained every winter? To get a usable faucet without these problems, install a frostfree faucet on the bathroom or kitchen wall. Frost-free means that when you shut if off, it
automatically drains so that it can’t freeze. The back end of the faucet must be in a warm
13-2
environment to prevent freezing. An 8” long faucet works best in manufactured homes. If you
cannot find a store that sells an 8” faucet, then a 10” or 12” faucet will be fine although the back
end will stick further into the home.
Step 1 – Choose the location of your faucet. A sink next to an outside wall works best as it can
be connected to the waterlines underneath the sink. The faucet could also be located near a toilet
on an outside wall.
Step 2 – Drill a 1” hole through the wall from underneath the sink. Start by drilling a small pilot
hole to doublecheck the location on the outside. Be sure to stay away from any wall studs and
wires. The hole should be drilled with a slight angle towards the ground.
Step 3 – Insert faucet into the hole. If your faucet comes with a plastic half-moon shaped piece,
place that behind the faucet head on top. That plastic piece is designed to help ensure you have
the right slope so your faucet will drain when shut off. Again, an 8” long faucet works best in
manufactured homes. Attach faucet to home by using two screws and apply caulk around the
flange to ensure no water leaks back into the home.
Step 4 – First shut water off. Connect the faucet to the cold water line of the sink faucet. If using
pex waterline, screw or solder on a pex adapter to the faucet
and follow the instructions in Chapter 14 for making
connections using pex. Screwing on the pex adapter before
inserting the faucet into the hole works best. Be sure to use
some thread tape before screwing on.
Step 5 – Turn the water back on and go wash your car.
(The picture to the right shows the components to hooking up
an exterior faucet. Pictured counter clockwise is the exterior
faucet, the ½” female pex adapter, a short piece of ½” pex
pipe, a ½” pex 90 degree elbow, another short piece of ½” pex
pipe, a ½” pex tee which will then tap into the existing
waterline as shown by the two lighter-colored ½” pex pipes.
Pex pipes do come in various colors, but all connect the same.)
Installing a Fixture Shut-off Valve
Your faucet drips or leaks, soit’s time to repair or replace it, yet the only water shut-off is located
underneath the home. "What a pain," you say to yourself. Next time avoid the hassles by
installing separate shut-offs to each plumbing fixture. Just remember that you need a shut-off on
both the hot and cold waterlines. To replace a kitchen or vanity faucet and add a shut-off valve,
just follow these steps:
Step 1 - Shut off the water to the whole house than take the pressure off the waterlines, that way
when you cut into the waterline you won't get a face full of sprayed water. Opening up the
outside spigot is a great way to relieve the pressure. The main shut-off is usually located either by
the water heater, or underneath the home.
13-3
Step 2 - Cut off the ends to the old waterline about 14 inches
or so back from the faucet connection. If you have pex or
gray polybutylene waterlines, a plastic tubing cutter works
well. If you don’t have a tubing cutter, use a hack saw. If
you have copper waterlines, cut using a copper tubing cutter.
Do not use a plastic tubing cutter to cut copper or any other
metal – only plastic.
Step 3 -Locate the materials needed (pictured from left to
right for connecting your faucet to existing gray poly
waterlines) - 1/2" poly crimp ring, 1/2" pex to poly transition
fitting, piece of white pex waterline with two 1/2" crimp
rings, 1/2" pex to 3/8" male shutoff valve, 16" or 20" flexible
faucet connector. If you already have pex waterlines, then all
you need is the shut-off valve and the faucet connector. The
existing waterline will crimp right to the shut-off valve.
Step 4 - Assemble the pieces. Using a 1/2" crimper, crimp
the rings to the pex. Screw the flexible faucet connector to
the shut-off valve. Don't overtighten. Thread paste or tape is
not needed.
Step 5 - Crimp the new connectors/shut-off valves to the end
of the existing waterlines. Screw the flexible connector to
faucet (faucet shown removed
from sink for clarity). Turn
on water and check for leaks.
If your pex fitting leaks, it
will have to be cut out and
redone new. Always a good
idea to not use real short
pieces of pex pipe just in case
a fitting does have to be cut out.
Copper Waterlines Note:
If you have copper waterlines, purchase a shut-off valve that connects via a compression fitting to
the size of copper waterline you have. To install, unscrew the nut from the shut-off valve and slip
over the copper line. Inside the nut will be a compression ring, slide it over the copper tube next.
Then slip the copper tube into the faucet and screw on the compression nut. Snug but don’t
overtighten. If it leaks, tighten a little bit further. Instructions are also included with most shutoff valves.
13-4
WATERLINES
Understand and Install
Chapter 14
_______________________________________________________
Plumbing in a manufactured home can be quite different than plumbing in a site-built home. In
fact different enough that plumbers in many areas will not work on mobile homes. Why? Some
plumbers don’t like to work on the new plastic waterlines. Others don’t like the fact that things
such as tub faucets and drains aren’t standard. Another reason is just plain laziness -- too much
work to crawl under a home to get at a waterline. There is also, "You just never know what kind
of plumbing mess I'll find, so why mess with it at all?"
Today’s plumbing in manufactured homes can be described as ‘on the cutting-edge of
technology.’ Because codes for site-built houses are strict and hard to change, mobile-home
manufacturers are often the first to test new technology. Thanks to mobile home manufacturers,
this country is now seeing a shift towards plastic waterlines -- more specifically, a shift to crosslinked polyethylene (pex).
Working with plastic waterlines is very simple, easy and fast. So why would plumbers scoff at
that? One reason is that in many areas, codes for site-built homes have changed very little over
the years. This has given many plumbers a good reason for not wanting to learn anything new.
In fact, those same plumbers probably despise the new technology; therefore, they refuse to work
on mobile homes.
If your having trouble finding someone to work on your plumbing and you don’t want to attempt
it yourself, try contacting a manufactured home repair company instead of a plumber.
Waterlines
In the past many mobile homes were built using galvanized pipe or copper for waterlines. If you
have an older mobile home, most likely you have the metal galvanized pipes. Today, galvanized
pipe has become the headache of the industry as it tends to corrode shut. Galvanized pipes are no
longer used for waterlines, and homeowners who have galvanized will experience loss of water
pressure or rust particles in their water due to the corrosion in the pipes. The only solution to that
problem is to replace them.
Copper, on the other hand, is still occasionally used but has become quite expensive and much
more time consuming to install. Although copper waterlines will not corrode, cold weather can
be deadly on them. If it freezes, copper either bursts or expands so no fittings will fit, making
repairs about impossible. Plus, both products are difficult for the average homeowner to work
with. This gave life to another alternative -- plastic
waterlines.
At first the most popular plastic waterline was
polybutylene, a flexible gray or black-colored plastic
waterline. In the late eighty’s and mid nineteenninety’s, many of the plastic fittings (right picture) that
were used to connect polybutylene tubing were
substandard; they would become brittle, crack and
break. A class-action suit resulted and today
polybutylene is no longer manufactured.
14-1
Anytime work is being done and plastic fittings are discovered, they should be removed. Brass or
copper fittings are used today with the pex waterlines, polybutylene’s suitable replacement.
Between pex and CPVC (hard rigid plastic) waterlines, pex provides the most resistance against
corrosion and has an ability to “remember” its shape. That feature helps prevent the pipe from
bursting under extreme conditions such as freezing. CPVC, copper and pex are waterlines
available on the market today, and pex is by far the more superior. Both pex and CPVC products
withstand heat very well. One advantage of CPVC is that it can be glued (solvent welded) which
requires no tools for assembly. But like copper, it cannot withstand freezing without damage. At
the current time CPVC is probably the most widely available, but pex is rapidly making its way
onto retailers shelves. When choosing your new waterline, consider using pex and investing in
the crimping tools necessary to do the job.
If you want to know how to work with CPVC, copper or any other type of waterline, numerous
books are available. The rest of this chapter will be devoted to working with pex.
No matter what type of waterlines (galvanized, copper, black, polybutylene, cpvc, pex) your
mobile home currently has, you can easily repair leaks or do other plumbing projects by using
materials available at your home improvement center or hardware store. For instance, several
companies have available universal compression-type fittings and couplings designed to easily
connect together about any type of waterline using only basic tools.
Most all homes have two sizes of waterlines -- ½ inch and ¾ inch (inside diameter). ¾ inch
waterlines are generally only used as the main waterline leading in and out of the water heater. ½
inch is generally used everywhere else in the home. One exception may be the risers leading to
the toilets or sinks which sometimes are 3/8 or 1/4 inch.
PEX
Today pex waterlines are pretty much the standard
in the manufactured home industry. In many areas
pex is also the plumbers choice for new
conventionally-built houses. Probably the only turnoff with pex is that it is installed with crimp rings
which require a special crimping tool. Not that long
ago a crimping tool sold for over $150. Thanks to
the popularity of pex, crimpers now sell for well
under $100 and the costs will continue to fall.
Investing in a pair of crimpers is a wise decision for
anyone considering tackling their own plumbing.
You could save 1 or 2 calls to a plumber and the tool
would be paid for (and your neighbors would appreciate borrowing them!) You could delay the
purchase of a crimper by skipping the rings and using compression fittings, the only other way to
connect pex waterlines. But compression fittings aren’t as secure as crimped fittings and the
damage you could get from a blown compression fitting would pay for a whole box of crimping
tools. The above picture shows a pex crimper, pex cutter, go/no go gauge (page 14-4), crimp
rings and a few of the available insert fittings.
14-2
PEX to Polybutylene
As mentioned in the beginning of this chapter, pex is
polybutylene’s replacement. Once only available in clear or white,
pex can now be found in a variety of colors including red, blue,
white and clear. Because so many manufactured homes still
contain the gray polybutylene, repairs are still necessary. Since
parts for polybutylene systems are no longer available, repairs
have to be made using pex. The repairs are simple, you just have
to remember that anytime you connect pex to polybutylene, you
need a ‘pex to polybutylene’ adapter (pictured right) available
anywhere pex fittings are sold. In the adapter kit, the gold ring is
used on the gray polybutylene line and the black ring is used on
the white pex line. Besides being a different diameter, the
polybutylene side of the fitting contains a lot more rings than the
pex side. Do not use a regular ‘pex to pex’ coupler as the inside
diameter of polybutylene is larger.
In the photo to the right, the top coupler is a ‘pex to pex’ adapter. The bottom coupler is a ‘pex to
polybutylene’ adapter. On the right side of the pex to polybutylene adapter is the polybutylene
connection. Notice how its thicker and the ring spacing is tighter.
If you have a leak in the middle of a gray polybutylene
waterline, cut out the leak and install a piece of pex with
a ‘pex to polybutylene‘ adapter on each end.
Figuring out how to do plumbing in your home using
pex isn’t rocket science. Notice that everything is
connected using fittings with rings. For instance, if you
need to add a line to install an outdoor faucet (previous
chapter), you simply cut in half an existing cold
waterline and slip in a tee. A tee is the fitting used when
a waterline needs to branch off of another. Then slip a
ring over the end of each waterline that connects to the tee and crimp. Unlike trying to solder
copper or glue CPVC, the beauty of using pex is that the pipes can be wet or still dripping and a
successful crimp can still be easily made. How much easier can it get!
Installing New Waterlines
As mentioned earlier, if you’ve got the old metal galvanized pipes, you’re probably experiencing
loss of water pressure and occasional chunks of rust coming through your waterlines. The only
way to repair it is to replace it.
When installing new pex lines, never worry about removing the old waterlines. If they aren’t in
the way, let them lie.
The toughest part of replacing waterlines is working underneath the home in cramped space. But
before you start doing the back stroke, be sure you understand how your home’s plumbing system
functions. Basically, there’s not much to understand. In fact it can all be summed up in one
paragraph.
14-3
The ¾” main waterline comes into the house by the water
heater and makes a tee. One side of the tee goes into the hot
water heater which then feeds all the ½” hot waterlines. The
other side of the tee feeds all the ½” cold waterlines.
Congratulations! Go pick up your diploma as you just passed
Plumbing 101.
Codes
Manufactured homes are built to a HUD code. Homes built to a UBC or any other code have
stricter plumbing requirements. In most areas pex waterlines are acceptable but all fittings have
to be accessible. In other words, connections cannot be made inside walls or underneath floors as
they typically are in a manufactured home.
For pex to meet codes under those conditions, manifolds are used. Think of a manifold as a hot
and cold control panel. The hot side of your main line would flow into the hot control panel. The
cold side would flow into the cold control panel. A separate waterline would run from the control
panel to each fixture in house. For instance, in your bathroom three ½” cold waterlines would run
from the cold panel to your bathroom sink, tub and toilet. To accomplish that and meet code,
each waterline would need to be one long piece with no hidden fittings connecting additional
pieces of waterline. The beauty of this system is that you wouldn’t need to install shut-off valves
at each fixture, but rather simply turn off the valve for that line at the manifold. Depending upon
your area, your waterlines may need to be inspected by a building inspector. Find out before
starting any major work. If your area is like most, building inspectors don’t require mobile
homes to meet any code but HUD.
Making a crimp connection
Step 1 – Using a pipe cutter, make a square cut. Remove any
burrs or jagged edges.
Step 2 – Slide the correct-sized crimp ring over the end of the
pex waterline.
14-4
Step 3 – Insert the fitting into the pipe until it hits the shoulder.
The ring should be positioned 1/8 to ¼” from the end of the
pipe. If you encounter difficulty with keeping the ring in place
until crimped, gently squeeze the ring using a pliers. Do not
oversqueeze with the pliers or you may not be able to get the
cimping tool over the ring.
Step 4 – With a properly calibrated crimper, squarely center
the jaws over the ring and squeeze the handle one time. If
crimped more than once, the connection must be cut out and
redone.
Step 5 – Remove crimper and check the ring using a GO/NOGO gauge. A GO/NO-GO gauge will tell you if you’ve made
a proper crimp. For each size of pipe the gauge will have two
slots. The GO slot will slip over the ring, the NO-GO slot will
not. If both slots (or neither slot) slip over the ring, then the
connection must be cut out and redone once the crimper has
been recalibrated. To recalibrate a crimper, one screw loosens
and the other adjusts. Since all brands of crimpers adjust a bit
differently, refer to your manual for more details.
Tips: When installing new waterlines, here are some tips for making the job easier.
A) Purchase pex waterline in 20’ sticks or lay out rolls several days ahead of time. Straight
sticks are a lot easier to feed through the belly than rolls of pex that won’t lay straight.
B) Help feed long lines of pex through the belly by occasionally cutting an 8” slit in the
belly and using your hand to help feed it along. Patch the belly once the line has reached
its destination and has been tested for leaks.
C) Run both the hot and cold lines together. Tape them together at the ends.
D) Before feeding the hot and cold lines into the belly, label the cold line by wrapping a
piece of black electrical tape on it every 5 feet or so.
E) Never use a crimp ring that isn’t quite round.
F) Check the calibration of a crimping tool before each project. Check by crimping a ring
on a scrap piece of waterline and checking with the GO/NO-GO gauge.
G) When installing a copper to pex adapter, solder the adapter to the copper before crimping
on the pex.
H) Properly support the pipe on long open runs with fasteners every couple feet. Automatic
fasteners make the job a cinch as they work somewhat like a staple gun.
I) Do not expose pex pipe to UV light (sun) for more than 24 months.
J) When running new lines, leave some slack for any future adjustments.
K) But any polybutylene waterline left in your home in most cases will function properly if
the plastic fittings are removed and the pipe is kept straight. Polybutylene with sharp
bends in time will crack and leak.
14-5
14-6
WATER HEATER
Understand & Replace
Chapter 15
_______________________________________________________
One of the biggest deterrents to installing your own water heater
is that everyone tells you it has to be a mobile home water
heater. Is that true? Why can’t a regular water heater be
installed? So what is a mobile home water heater? Read on.
Electric
With an electric water heater, there is no such thing as a ‘mobile
home’ water heater except for the odd placement of the waterline
connections. Original electric water heaters in manufactured
homes have the cold waterline entering the side of the tank at the
bottom, and the hot waterline coming
out of the side towards the top. Upon
a trip to your local home improvement
store, you’ll find that the hot water
heaters they sell have the hot and cold waterlines at the very top of the
tank. Will that one work? The answer is “yes” but the exisiting
waterlines will have to be extended to connect into the top. If you are
able to find an exact match to the original water heater, expect to pay
about a $100 more. Despite that, any electric water heater can be
installed in a manufactured home. This is not the case with gas water
heaters.
Gas
Gas water heaters must be mobile home approved and will be
labeled that way. Gas water heaters must draw in air, combust it
then discharge the fumes – all from a little closet. Like original
electric heaters, they too have side connections for the hot and cold
waterlines.
Two types of gas water heaters are used – regular combustion
(bottom left) and sealed combustion (right). Most older homes with
an outside access door to the water heater use regular combustion
water heaters. Homes with an inside access door use a sealed
combustion water heater. Sealed
combustion water heaters use no air from
the tiny closet it sits in. All air is drawn
from the outside and discharged through a sealed chimney. A regular
combustion water heater draws air from underneath and around it, and
discharges the fumes through an unsealed chimney. Because
manufactured homes are built so air tight compared to standards of
years ago, air needs to be drawn from the outside so as not to affect the
air quality in the home. Older homes with an outside access draw air
from a louvered door and from an air tube in the floor underneath the
water heater.
Sometimes homeowners will seal-up the outside access door with extra
15-1
insulation for better weatherizing. When that’s done the water heater should be updated from a
regular combustion to a sealed combustion unit. The downside is that sealed combustion units
are about a $100 more than a regular combustion heater, and at least twice as much as an electric
water heater. Homes containing combustion units can be converted to use electric water heaters
by simply running a 220 volt wire to the water heater compartment at the time of replacement.
Water leaking from the bottom of your heater is a sign that you need a new one. Normally this
means that your tank has rusted. You can’t economically repair a rusted tank, only replace it.
When you notice the water, first check that it is not coming from a nearby pipe. Nothing is more
frustrating than to spend the money and time replacing a water heater only to later discover that
the culprit was a leaky waterline. Below are the steps to replacing a water heater.
Step 1 – Disconnect the power. If you have an electric water heater, shut off power at the breaker
box. Remove the electrical cover at the top of the water heater and disconnect the wires. If you
have a gas water heater, turn knob the knob on the gas valve to OFF. Then turn the valve on the
gas line to OFF and disconnect the line from the water heater.
Step 2 – Drain the water tank. Attach a garden hose to the
drain spout (pictured right) and run outside. The end of the
hose must be lower than the water heater for it to properly
drain. Let air into the tank by opening up the relief valve by
lifting the handle straight out (below). If the water is draining
slow, unscrew the upper waterline to let more air in. Be sure
the water level has dropped below the
upper connection or the water will run
out.
Step 3 – Disconnect the waterlines.
Once the tank is drained, disconnect the
waterlines by unscrewing them at the
tank. If the fittings are stubborn or
appear very corroded, then simply cut
them away as you’ll want to replace the
ends anyway. Remove the heater from
the compartment. You may have to first unhook several straps.
Step 4 – Prepare the new water heater. Remove the new water heater from the box. If you’re
replacing the ends or extending the waterlines, screw the new fittings directly into the water
heater and attach a short piece of pipe elbowing them down towards the floor. The more prep
work you can do now, the less grunting and groaning you’ll do later in that small water heater
closet. . If you’re using pex waterlines to hook up your water heater, refer to Chapter 14 on
working with pex.
Step 5 – Examine the existing waterlines. Inside the water heater compartment there are
normally a spider web of other waterlines. Check that all are in good condition and replace
anything that’s galvanized or contains the old plastic polybutelene fittings. The galvanized pipes
tend to corrode shut over the years and the polybutelene fittings tend to become brittle and crack
(see Chapter 14). Getting rid of them now may prevent having to remove the water heater in the
near future to access the pipes for repairs.
Step 6 – Install the new chimney. If your installing a gas water heater, be sure you have the
proper chimney installed per manufacturer recommendations. No chimney is required for an
electric water heater.
15-2
Step 7 – Check the floor. The floor in the water heater closet may be damaged and sagging. If
so, replace or overlay it with a piece of ¾” treated plywood. Treated plywood is resistant against
water.
Step 8 – Installing a main waterline shut-off. If you do not have an easily accessible main
waterline shutoff inside your home, refer to Chapter 13.
Step 9 – Set the new water heater in the closet and hook up safety straps. Reconnect the
electrical wires or gas line. Reconnect the waterlines. Connect the tube from the pressure-release
valve and route it underneath the home. If a water heater would ever malfunction and overheat, it
would explode if not for a properly-operating pressure-relief valve. Installing a separate shut-off
valve on both the hot and cold lines is also a good idea. For gas water heaters, hook up the
chimney and air vent underneath the tank.
Step 10 – Turn on the water and begin filling the tank. Open up a hot water faucet elsewhere in
the home while the heater is filling. As water enters the tank, air will spurt out of the faucet.
Once air quits spurting and water begins running, shut off the faucet and check for leaks at the
tank.
Step 11 – If you have an electric water heater, turn on the breaker. DO NOT TURN ON
BREAKER IF TANK IS NOT FULL OF WATER. If the tank is empty, the heating elements
will burn out and need replacing. For gas water heaters, turn on the gas. Then turn the gas valve
to pilot, push down and light. Once lit, hold the button down for a few seconds then slowly
release. If the pilot goes out when you release the knob, push down and try lighting again.
Sometimes air gets into the line and needs to be bleeded out by lighting several times. Once the
pilot stays lit, turn the knob to ON to begin operation. Replace the covers.
Step 12 – Replace all covers and shut access doors to water heater closet.
Troubleshooting
White particles in screens – If white particles are found in the faucet screens, that’s a sign the dip
tube is breaking up and should be replaced. A dip tube is a plastic tube that directs the cold water
to the bottom of the heater.
Rust particles in screens – If rust particles are found in the faucet screens, that’s a sign that either
the water heater tank is rusting (ie about ready for replacement) or you have galvanized pipes that
are corroding badly and need replacing.
No or little hot water (electric) – First check that the breaker is not blown. If power is OK, then
the problem is either a heating element or the thermostat. 90% of the time it’s the heating
element. One way to check for a bad heating element is to turn off the power, unhook the wires
to the element and put a tester on the two screws. The tester should be set to the OHM setting
such as X10. That’s the setting used to test for a complete circuit. If the tester beeps or the
needle moves way to the right, the element is OK. If there’s a soft or no beep, or the needle
doesn’t move past the middle, then the element needs to be replaced. Most electric water heaters
have two heating elements. Always replace them in pairs. To replace, shut off the power, drain
the water heater, unhook the wires, screw out the heating elements and replace them with same
kind.
No hot water (gas) – Most likely the pilot light went out. To relight, turn the knob to pilot, press
down and light. Hold for a few seconds then release, then turn back to ON. If the pilot
continually blows out, examine chimney making sure the top cap is still on. If so, extending the
15-3
chimney up may help reduce the down drafts that are blowing out the pilot light. The chimney
can only be extended up using the proper chimney materials.
Tips
1. On gas water heaters, replace
the hard gas pipe connection with
a flexible connector (right
picture). This not only makes
connecting the gas line easier, but
increases your safety if the water
heater would ever tip. In addition
it’s code in many areas.
2. When hooking pex waterlines to a water heater, pex can be
connected directly to an electric water heater but a 12” copper adapter
is required to connect to a gas water heater ( pictured far right).
Solutions for smelly hot water *
Do you have troubles with smelly hot water? If so, the problem exists with your water heater and
occurs mainly in homes supplied by a well. In a nutshell, you've got smelly hydrogen sulfide
gas in your water heater. Let me try to explain without getting too technical.
A water heater provides perfect conditions for creating hydrogen sulfide gas and
can create it in a couple of ways. First, the warm environment is ideal for sulfur bacteria.
Second, a chemical reaction between sulfate in the water and the water heater's magnesium
anode rod can create hydrogen sulfide gas. Magnesium anode rods are standard in most water
heaters and sulfate is a naturally occurring compound found in most groundwater.
The magnesium supplies electrons that aid in the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
Solutions
So how do you get rid of the hydrogen sulfide gas? You have several solutions you can try.
First, is the temperature on your water heater set too low? If your temperature is below 130
degrees Fahrenheit, it may be too low. If so, flush your water heater tank, refill and turn it up to
145 degrees for 48 hours. Once its done 'cooking', set the thermostat at 130. If this doesn't solve
the problem, read on.
Second, you may need to replace your anode rod. But before you can replace the rod, the tank
and hot water lines need to be disinfected. Here's how.
The first step is to replace the magnesium anode rod with one made of aluminum or an
aluminum-zinc alloy. Aluminum and aluminum-zinc alloy rods don't contribute to the production
of hydrogen gas. Don't remove the offending rod without installing a new one. The anode rod is
designed to corrode so the tank and fittings do not. You will void the water heater's warranty if
you simply remove the rod. Replacement rods sell for around $20 at plumbing supply stores.
You won't find them at home centers.
To remove the old rod, shut off the water supply to the water heater and drain about 5
gallons of water from the tank so that water doesn't run everywhere when you remove the anode
rod. It's best to drain the water through the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater because
15-4
you will also remove sediment that collects inside on the bottom of the tank. Sediment is another
good breeding ground for bacteria. The water from the tank is very hot, so use caution.
Loosening the old anode rod nut can be difficult, since it probably has not been moved since it
was installed at the factory. You'll need a 1-, 1- 1/8- or 1- 1/4-in. socket wrench, depending on
the nut size. It may take some real force to break the nut loose, so I recommend having a helper
hold the water heater to keep it from moving. If the nut won't budge, apply some penetrating oil
to the threads and try it again. If that fails, heat the nut with a propane touch. Use caution so you
don't damage the top of the water heater.
Once the nut is loose (and cool if you heated it), unscrew it and lift out the anode rod.
When you install the new rod, wrap some Teflon tape around the threads to make it easier
to remove next time. Anode rods last anywhere from two to five years, depending upon your
water hardness. Check the rod every couple of years and replace it when the center core wire
shows.
The old anode rod will most likely have a white, gray, black or reddish-brown slime on it that is
produced by the bacteria. Don't attempt to clean the rod and reuse it.
You also need to treat the inside of the tank. The most effective way to fight the anaerobic
bacteria is to oxygenate the water with hydrogen peroxide. Anaerobic bacteria thrive where there
is little or no oxygen. The hydrogen peroxide bubbles and charges the system, creating a harsh
oxygenated environment. Pour in one pint of hydrogen peroxide per 40 gallons of tank capacity.
This weak concentration is not harmful to you, but it will kill the bacteria. Install the new anode
rod, turn on the water supply and refill the tank. Run all the hot water taps until they are hot and
then turn them off. It's important to get the oxygenated hot water to the end of every hot water
line. Let the treated water stand for two to four hours. Then run each hot water tap for about five
minutes to flush the peroxide. This also drains enough hot water from the water heater to clear the
system.
Finally, whether you're shocking a well or
oxygenating a water heater, don't expect it to
be a one-time cure. A well may need to be
shocked two or even three times a year. A
water heater may need to be oxygenated
three or four times in one year. It is unlikely
that you will kill all of the bacteria in one
treatment.
Third, replace your existing water heater
with a tankless hot water heater. They cost a
bit more, but since there's no tank, there's no
way for the hydrogen sulfide gas to breed
and grow. Plus the tankless water heaters
may be more energy efficient. If you
consider this option, be sure you buy one
recommended for manufactured homes.
(illustration source for anode rod: popularmechanics.com)
•
contribution by Tom
Poore
15-5
15-6
BATHROOM REMODEL
Replacing Tub, Toilet and Floor
Chapter 16
_______________________________________________________
No two bathroom remodels are the same and they all present unforeseen challenges. However,
replacing tubs in manufactured homes is often simpler than replacing tubs in conventional houses
because walls can be left in tact.
Any major bathroom remodel in a manufactured home should also include replacing the partical
board floor. In many bathrooms you’ve already noticed the dips and sags and holes in the floor.
Even if you don’t yet have those floor problems, why risk the chance after your new bathroom is
done. If you’re one of the few lucky homeowners to already have plywood (or equivalent) floors,
then this advice does not pertain to you.
The following steps will give you an idea of how the remodeling process should work:
Remove bathtub.
Step 1 - Shut off the water to the house. Remove the faucet
handles by popping off the cap and backing out the screw.
Then unscrew the flange. The spout is normally removed by
turning it counter clockwise with a big wrench. Also remove
the showerhead by unscrewing it.
16-1
Step 2 - Disconnect the tub
drain. To disconnect, first
try sticking a pair of needlenose pliers down the drain
and turn (left picture). If
you have no luck, have
someone hold the drain with
the needle-nose pliers and
disconnect the drain from
underneath the tub by
turning the big nut. Access
the drain through the back of
a wall (right picture) or from
underneath the home. You
could access the drain by
cutting or breaking the tub around the drain, but remember, you still have to get at the drain from
behind or underneath to hook up the new tub.
Step 3 - Remove the tub
surround (left picture).
Normally the surround is
simply glued to the wall, so
loosen a corner and pull.
Once the tub surround is
removed, you’ll notice a
flange around the tub with
some screws in it. Remove
the screws. Some tubs have
a special trim kit around the
tub. Others may be caulked.
Once all the obstacles are
removed, lift or slide the tub
out and discard.
Remove toilet
Step 1 - Shut off water, flush and sponge out any remaining
water from the toilet tank. Then push out any water from the
bowl using a plunger.
Step 2 - Unhook the waterline using a pliers or wrench.
Step 3 - At the bottom of the toilet is a bolt on each side.
Remove the nut from each bolt. Lift up the toilet and remove
from the room. Scrape off the excess wax from the toilet
flange on the floor.
16-2
Remove floor
Step 1 – Cut out and
remove the old floor in
sections. But as you cut
each section, carefully
check underneath the
floor for plumbing or
electrical lines. An easy
way to check is to bust a
hole with a hammer. A
few swings is all it takes
(left picture). Using a
reciprocating saw, cut the
floor along the edge of the
room. Be sure to not cut
any floor joists (right
picture).
Step 2 - Remove
pieces of the old
flooring by first
cutting down
between each floor
joist. Picture to the
left shows cutting
with a reciprocating
saw, but the cuts
can be done easier
with a circular saw.
Once the cuts are made, simply jerk out the pieces. Then
clean-up the floor joists by removing any staples, nails or
stuck glue. If you find a joist with about a 4” wide piece of
board between it and the floor, this is called a T-joist. Either
leave the board or replace it with a strip of ¾” plywood. A
T-joist is generally found at the seams of the flooring.
Install new floor
Once the old floor is removed, not all the edges of the
room will have a joist right at the edge for nailing the
floorboard, so a support must be created. Pictured to
the right is one method of adding a support by nailing
boards between two joists. An air nailer works the
simplest and fastest, but the boards can also be nailed
or screwed. Another method of adding a support is to
make the floor joist fatter by nailing a 2x4 or two onto
it. Refer to Chapter 3 for more information on
replacing a rotten floor.
16-3
Step 2 - Where two sheets
of plywood will form a
seam, the seam should also
be supported by nailing
boards between the joists
(left picture). Before laying
the plywood, install a bead
of construction adhesive on
top of the joists. This will
insure that your new floor
will not squeak.
Step 3 – Now is a good time to check the insulation in the floor. If you add more insulation, be
sure to put it underneath any water and drain lines. Lay it over the lines and you risk freeze-up as
heat from the floor may not reach it.
Step 4 - Plywood should be ¾” thick and
able to handle moisture without
delaminating. One side should be smooth to
make it easier to lay the flooring. If you
choose to use any other type of wood
flooring such as OSB, it may not hold up as
well to moisture and you’ll still have to
overlay it with ¼” smooth plywood before
installing a vinyl floor. As mentioned
above, first apply a bead of construction
adhesive on the floor joists, then screw
down the plywood after it’s been cut to fit.
For strength, lay the plywood across as
many floor joists as possible.
Step 5 - Drive screws every 8” along each joist and every 4”
along the seam. Drive the screws slightly below the surface
of the wood.
16-4
Install New Toilet Flange
Step 1 - Before the plywood floor can be placed in
the area of the toilet, the old flange must be cut off
(below right).
Step 2 - Once the flange is cut off, the drain pipe
may now be too short to glue on another flange. If
so, cut back the drain pipe and add a longer piece
using a coupler (below left).
Be careful in this area. In many homes, several
drain lines connect underneath the toilet. It could
become a real mess as all the drain lines would have
to be cut and tied back together. If you don’t feel
confident in handling such a task, call a professional to assist you. If you’d prefer to simply not
cut-off the toilet flange, the plywood can be cut in half and a piece slipped under each side of the
flange. Your floor won’t be as strong, so be sure to add a 2x4 support where the plywood will
seam as shown at the top of page 16-4.
Once the plywood is glued down and screwed down in the
toilet area, glue the flange to the drain pipe (pictured
below left). An all-purpose pipe glue works good. Then
screw the flange to the plywood ( pictured right).
16-5
Install vinyl flooring
Step 1 - Using a floor-leveling compound, fill any seams, gaps
and recessed screw heads on the plywood sub floor and let dry.
Step 2 - Cut a piece of vinyl flooring slightly bigger than the
area. One piece of vinyl for the entire room with no seams is
best.
Step 3 – Using the glue recommended for the vinyl flooring
you bought, spread the glue over the floor using a 3/16”
notched trowel and lay down the vinyl. Roll out any air
bubbles using a rubber roller or rolling pin. trim to fit.
Step 4 – Trim the vinyl to fit using a utilityknife. One tip for a
tight cut is to bend the vinyl to fit the corner by gently heating
it with a heat gun (pictured right), making sure to keep the gun
moving. If the gun sits in one spot it may damage the vinyl.
Once the vinyl is formed in the corner, carefully cut with a knife.
Install tub
Some homeowners choose to install the tub first before the vinyl (as these pictures show). But for
the record, installing vinyl is much easier if the tub is out of the way as you can tuck the vinyl
under the tub rather than cutting up to it.
Step 1 - The new tub should slide in between the
existing walls. In some cases, the paneling or sheetrock
on the walls may have to be removed or cut back in
order for the tub to fit.
Step 2 - Once you’re sure the tub will fit OK, lift up and
screw down a 1x2 board (pictured right) to support the
front apron. Sometimes the tub will come with an Fstrip. Nailing this down will do the same job of keeping
the front apron from pushing in.
Step 3 - Once the tub is in place, drive screws thru the
flange at the top of the tub into the wall studs (pictured
right). Pre-drill all the holes to ensure that the flange
won’t crack. Also using a countersink bit before driving
the screw will help keep the head flush.
16-6
Step 4 - Next, hook up the drain the same way you
unhooked it (pictured right). Most tubs come with a
drain kit. Use all new materials when possible. Inside
the tub, use silicone or plumbers putty under the lip of
the drain to ensure a proper seal. Do not overtighten.
The photo to the left shows a hooked-up drain
underneath the tub.
For more info on replacing a tub drain, see the end of
the chapter.
Install Tub Surround
Step 1 - First cut and prefit each piece of the tub surround.
Once satisfied, draw a line on the wall around the first piece to
mark the area to be glued.
Step 2 - Using an adhesive made for tub surrounds, squirt from
the tube a generous amount right onto the wall inside the lines
drawn from step 1.
Step 3 - Set the tub surround piece on the wall and push into
the glue, then immediately pull back and count to 45 to aerate.
Then push piece back onto the wall and roll flat. Roll the piece
every 15 minutes for about an hour to ensure a good bond
(pictured left). Begin the same process on the remaining
pieces.
Step 4 - Once the tub surround is glued
in place and rolled flat, caulk all seams (pictured right) including the
edge of the tub. Use a good quality mildew-resistant silicone bathroom
caulk. Apply the caulk then wipe it smooth with wet finger. If any glue
gets on the wall or the surface of the tub surround, clean up with a rag
and paint thinner.
Install Toilet
Of all the steps in putting a bathroom back together,
installing the toilet is probably the simplest.
Step 1 - Insert two new bolts into the grooves of the
toilet flange.
Step 2 - Set a new wax ring on the flange.
Step 3 - Set the toilet onto the wax ring and guide the
bolts up thru the holes in the bottom of the toilet.
16-7
Press the toilet into the wax ring. Add a washer and nut to each bolt and tighten both together.
Do not overtighten. Remember, wax rings cannot be re-used. If you mess up by setting the
toilet down wrong, you need another wax ring, or try the new rubber rings just coming onto the
market which can be reused again and again. Hook up the waterline to the tank of the toilet.
Install Tub Faucet
No one should upgrade a bathroom without upgrading
the tub faucet. Replacing the tub faucet at a later date
may involve tearing out something you just installed
new. Pressure-balanced single handled faucets
(bottom right picture) are a good choice because they
keep the water temperature a
constant temperature even when
someone flushes the toilet. The
picture to the left shows the hookup to a single-handled faucet.
The line to the left is the cold
waterline, the hot waterline is on the right. The pipe coming down hooks
into the tub spout and the shower head hooks into the top, which can’t be
seen in this photo. In this installation pex waterlines are connected to the hot
and cold inlets on the faucet. Pex adapters are first screwed into the faucet for connecting the pex
waterline. For more information on working with pex, see Chapter 14. Be sure to also consult
the instructions that come with the faucet for more installation instructions.
Finishing Tips
1) Re-install any missing trim pieces and clean-up.
2) Turn on the water and check for leaks.
3) Re-install any floor vents.
4) Glue can be removed by using paint thinner
on a rag. Although this is a safe way to clean
most plastic surfaces, be sure to test yours
before using.
Replacing a Tub Drain
Whether you are installing a new tub or shower, or
replacing the drain on your old unit, here's what’s
required in many manufactured home tubs. This type
of drain is for all showers and tubs without an
overflow. An overflow is an opening between the
drain and spout which would allow the water to escape
if the tub is filled too full. If you don't have that
overflow, this is the drain you need.
When purchasing the tub and shower drain kit, but
sure it includes all pieces shown to the right.
16-8
Installation Instructions
Step 1 - Install pop-up drain into tub
A) Remove nut and rubber washer from pop-drain.
B) Apply a bead of plumber's putty under the rim.
C) Set pop-drain into hole of tub or shower.
D) Slide on rubber washer. Note that the rubber washer goes underneath the tub floor.
E) Screw on nut and tighten. You may have to hold the drain from turning while you tighten.
Don't overtighten.
F) Scrape off any plumber's putty that squeezed out around the drain inside the tub.
Step 2 - Test-Fit the Drain.
A) Slip swivel connector inside P-trap.
B) Slip female end of the p-trap 90 degree elbow onto the drain pipe.
C) Screw big swivel nut of p-trap onto the 90 degree elbow.
D) Screw swivel connector to drain.
If all pieces fit well, remove for gluing. If pieces seem short, you may need to add onto
the drain pipe, or shorten up the base of the swivel connector. Once proper fit is made,
permanently install the drain.
Step 3 - Install Drain Permanently.
A) Glue swivel connector to P-trap by applying all purpose cement to both the base
of the swivel connector and the inside lip of the P-trap. Immediately slip base of
swivel connector inside the p-trap, spin 1/4 of a turn, and hold for 1 minute.
16-9
B) Glue the 90 degree elbow of the p-trap to the drain line. Apply glue the same way as in
step A, but be sure the adapter is positioned exactly as needed on the drain pipe (i.e. -normally that position is straight down. One tip is to mark its exact location before you
removed it from the test-fit steps.)
C) Screw swivel connector to
pop-up drain ensuring that the
rubber washer is inside. Don't
tighten just yet.
D) Screw big nut of P-trap to
the P-trap's 90 degree elbow.
Tighten nut.
E) Tight nut on swivel
connector at the pop-up drain.
Don't overtighten.
F) Check for leaks.
Installation Notes
* The swivel connector will not normally thread onto pop-up drains found in home
improvement stores.
* If not yet found on this website, individual drain parts may be ordered separately.
* The swivel nut of this P-trap should thread onto the 90 degree elbow of your existing ptrap. If so, don't cut-off the old elbow if in good shape.
16-10
HEAT TAPE
Eliminate or Replace
Chapter 17
_______________________________________________________
Do you worry about your heat tape going bad and waking up to frozen waterlines? Don’t you
wish you could simply eliminate your heat tape and never worry again, and never have to pay the
cost of replacing your heat tape every few years? A method is available that might just work for
you.
Water runs to a manufactured home through a main waterline coming out of the ground and into
the home. This line is protected from freezing by using a heat tape. Heat tapes tend to fail every
few years often resulting in frozen pipes and the cost of a new heat tape. This chapter illustrates
how you may be able to eliminate your heat tape yet keep your pipes from freezing.
How it Works
The waterline stays warm because warm air from the belly is drawn down into the drain tile pipe.
If the inside of the underbelly didn’t already contain warm air, then all your other pipes would
freeze.
Requirements
This solution, however, will not work on all homes. For it to work, you must meet the following
requirements:
1) The water connection at the ground must be located underneath the home. Some ground
connections are located just outside of the home. Those connections will not work.
2) The waterline must extend from the ground straight up into the underbelly of the home.
If instead your waterline travels many feet before entering your home, then the waterline
will need to be altered so it goes straight up into the belly, then travels inside the belly
over to the water heater or wherever the main connection is to the home.
Common Sense
When building the following system, don’t forget to use your common sense.
For many homes the water shut-off is on this main waterline. If you haven’t relocated the shutoff valve to inside the home, then you should design this set-up so the water shut-off can still be
easily accessed by perhaps removing a small piece of insulation or designing an opening into the
drain tile pipe.
Also keep in mind that any way you can increase the heat going into the drain tile pipe, the less
likely the waterline will ever freeze. For instance, if the drain tile pipe accesses the belly near a
heat duct, drill a few holes in the side of the ductwork to allow extra air to blow towards the pipe.
If the pipe is coming up nowhere near a heat duct, then perhaps consider cutting a hole in your
floor just above the pipe and inserting a floor register. Think things out, use some common
sense and you’ll have a fail-proof system requiring no heat tape.
17-1
Step 1
Obtain a 4-5’ piece of 6” diameter (or wider) flexible drain
tile, preferably the non-perforated type available at most any
home improvement store. Unplug and remove the old heat
tape. Measure the distance from the ground connection to
the underbelly and add 7”.
Step 2
Cut a piece of the drain
tile pipe to the distance
you figured in Step 1.
Step 3
Slit open the piece of drain tile pipe using a utility knife or tin
snips.
Step 4
Slip the drain tile pipe over the existing waterline. (picture far
right).
Step 5
Cut an undersized opening in the belly and insert the drain tile pipe
up above the insulation but not touching the above floor. By
cutting an undersized
opening, it will fit tight
around the pipe (picture
below).
.
17-2
Step 6
Once the drain tile pipe is secured in place, heavily insulate it and
then apply a weather-protecting plastic vapor barrier by wrapping it
around the pipe. Fiberglass pipe insulation can be purchased in rolls
which include a vapor barrier wrap.
Choosing and Replacing a Heat Tape
OK, so you've survived the first few cold snaps with no freeze-up problems. However, today you
woke up or came home to no water. Since you didn't have any freeze-up problems before, you
can be pretty much assured that your heat tape has gone out. When a heat tape goes, it goes.
There's no fixing it, just plan on replacing it. The typical life of a properly-installed heat tape is
3-5 years.
Selecting a heat tape
Two styles of heat tapes are available for
manufactured homes are Easy Heat and Frostex, as
named by one particular brand (pictured right).
Since most manufactured homes are connected with
a plastic-type waterline, you'll want to be sure that
the heat tape you select is approved for plastic
waterlines. The package will indicate if it is
approved for plastic.
The one-piece all-assembled flat heat tape with a
rubber coating, when installed, must run flat along
the pipe and cannot overlap itself or the rubber may
melt and cause a short or fire. For example, if you
have a 9’ waterline, you need a 9’ tape or whatever
the nearest available length is. On the end near the
cord is a thermostat that should solidly touch the
pipe. The thermostat should be located on the end of
the pipe that will be the coldest. Because this type of
heat tape is coated in rubber, it tends to better resist
moisture and last longer than silver-braided Frostex
type.
Figure 17-7. An Easy Heat (left) and
Frostex (right) heat tape and a roll of
fiberglass insulation.
17-3
The silver-braided Frostex type of heat tape is wrapped around the waterline itself. This heat tape
can overlap itself without harm, which makes it safer than most to use. Since there's no rubber
coating, the heat tape tends to corrode and fail with excessive moisture. Because the tape is
wrapped around the pipe and not laid flat, it is difficult to determine exactly how much you will
need. A good formula for determining how much you’ll need is to take the length of the
waterline x 1.5. For example, if you have a 10’ waterline, you’ll need 15’ of Frostex. Frostex is
sold by the foot and must be purchased with 2 ends as well. Dealers and service people love to
use this tape as they can buy it in big rolls and use only what they need at any given time.
Also pictured is a roll of fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier included. When installing, the
insulation is rolled on one way, and the vapor barrier rolled on the other way (as shown on the
bag).
Installing a heat tape
First, unplug and remove the old heat tape. To remove, take a utility knife and carefully cut away
the old vapor barrier and insulation and pull off the heat tape. Don't try to save any of the old
insulation or vapor barrier, it's not worth it. Besides, it may be wet or damp.
Fasten the new heat tape to the waterline per
manufacturer instructions. As shown in figure 17-7,
the Easy Heat tape lies flat (left) and the Frostex tape
(right) is wrapped around the pipe. Use only
manufactured- approved tape for fastening the heat
tape to the waterline. Regular electrical tape is not a
good choice because it may melt. Look for an
electrical tape designed to handle greater heat. Plus,
those same electrical tapes will remain much more
flexible under hot or cold conditions
Figure 17-8. This particular heat tape was
installed wrong causing it to melt the
waterline. The heat tape should not have
been wrapped around the pipe, but laid
flat.
When wrapping the tape around the pipe, do not pull
too tight as it may pinch the heat tape. Pull the
fastening tape snug, but not overly tight. Heat tape
should also not turn any sharp corners. A sharp bend
in a heat tape is almost an instant guarantee of
failure. When you come to a corner, give the heat
tape a little room so it doesn't get pinched.
17-4
Insulating the waterline
Once the heat tape is fastened to the waterline, you'll
then want to wrap it with fiberglass pipe insulation
sold in rolls 20-30’ long and 3-6” wide and about ¼”
thick. Starting at one end, wrap the insulation
around the waterline until you get to the other end.
Then do the same with the vapor barrier, except wrap
it the opposite way you wrapped the insulation. As
you wrap the insulation and vapor barrier, pull it
fairly snug but do not pull it too tight. Vapor barrier Figure 17-9. All this ice is the result of
is normally included with a roll of fiberglass pipe
an undetected leak due to an
insulation.
improperly installed heat tape.
However, the kids didn't seem to mind
That's it, you’re done! Go plug in your heat tape and all the ice!
you'll soon be enjoying running water!
Heat tape tips
Could I have prevented my pipes from freezing? Yes. If someone was home, you could have
prevented your pipes from actually freezing if you had installed an alarm on your waterline. The
device would have detected that your pipes were nearing the freezing point and sounded an alarm.
The alarm is a signal for you to turn on your water so your pipes don't freeze, and then to
investigate your heat tape. The alarm itself is hung inside the home, and a cord runs down and
attaches to the waterline.
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Never plug your heat tape in without water in the waterlines.
When done replacing your heat tape, be sure your waterline is not sitting directly on the
ground.
Don't add any thicker insulation to your waterline as it may cause your heat tape to
overheat. Don’t use foam insulators either.
If your waterline extends down into a culvert, run your heat tape down as far as you can
reach. After you've wrapped the heat tape down in the culvert, shove part of a bat of
insulation around the top of the culvert, sealing the top of the culvert against cold air.
To test your heat tape before installing it, stretch it out and plug it in. If your testing it
during the summer and have a thermostat, put the end with the thermostat in your freezer.
A heat tape with a thermostat may take 5-20 minutes before it will turn on in freezing
temperatures.
If you must use an extension cord to plug in your heat tape, be sure it is of proper size (14
gauge or heavier) and intended for outdoor use.
Manufacturers strongly recommended that a heat tape be plugged into a GFCI protected
circuit. GFCI circuits are circuit breakers designed to trip if moisture is sensed.
Never plug in a heat tape while it is coiled.
Never install a heat tape in walls, floors and ceilings.
Make sure the brand of heat tape you are buying is suitable for your type of waterline.
Always read and save the manufacturer instructions.
17-5
17-6
WASHING MACHINE
Settling the Floor Vibrations
Chapter 18
_______________________________________________________
Once in awhile when a problem is addressed on my website, I give it the ho-hum answer and
move on. Recently my wife had her own problem with our manufactured home. The problem
was every time her washing machine spun, the vibration shook the floors causing all kinds of
rattles throughout the house. It didn’t use to be that way. I told her the problem had to be her
washing machine. She had it checked and the machine was fine. So now the problem rests on
my shoulders and a ho-hum answer on the forum was not going to cut it. She wanted the
vibrations to stop.
I pulled the washer and dryer away from the wall and looked at the floor. That good ole (not!)
partical board appeared to be weakening under the vibration of the spinning washer. I had two
goals in mind. First, I needed to firm up the floor and, second, I wanted to buffer any remaining
vibrations from spreading to the rest of the house.
Solution
Step 1 – Locate and mark the floor joists. One way to locate the floor joists is to use an electronic
stud finder with a deep scan button. The deep scan button will allow the stud finder to penetrate
through most flooring to find the joist. Another way to locate the joists is to drill several small
holes until you hit one. When you do hit a joist, the other joists should be 16” apart (24” on some
floors). Floor joists generally run across the home.
Step 2 – Using an utility knife, cut to size and lay
down a piece of ¾” or thicker high quality dense
insulating board that won’t vibrate apart. Anything
that is not constructed of little round Styrofoam beads
should work fine. A good insulating board costs about
$10 for a 4’x8’ sheet.
Step 3 – Cut and lay down a piece of ¾” plywood
that’s sanded smooth on one side. Transfer your floor
joists marks to the plywood to note where to screw.
18-1
Step 4 - Using 3-1/2” wood screws, screw down the plywood.
Be sure the screws drive into the floor joists. If you miss the
floor joists, normally the screw will spin without tightening
Step 5 – Protect and dress-up the new plywood by
cutting and gluing a piece of floor vinyl over it (my wife
wouldn’t pose for
pictures, but my 4-yearold son gladly
volunteered!) Spread
the glue using a 1/8 or
3/16 notched trowel.
Step 7 - Roll out any air bubbles in the vinyl flooring
using a rubber or wooden roller (the roller in your
kitchen will work fine). Bend the vinyl flooring over the
front lip of the new floor and fasten with a piece of trim.
If the piece of vinyl won’t easily bend over the lip, help
it by carefully using a heat gun. Leave a little extra
vinyl when bending. It can always be cut off after the
trim piece is nailed in place.
18-2
Step 6 – Hook back up the dryer and washer and go wash a load of
shirts. This solution may not have removed 100% of the vibrations,
but it’ll be much less noticeable.
As mentioned in Step 1, what if you only find one floor joist to screw into? Since the existing
particle board subfloor has no screw-holding power, screws have to be driven into a floor joist.
Finding only one floor joist could happen if your floor joists are spaced 24" apart. To
resolve the problem remove the existing subfloor and add additional support in the floor by
nailing supports between the floor joists. Then we replaced the subfloor with a piece of plywood
and started the steps of this chapter.
If you have folding closet doors, the insulating board with plywood on top must be cut so it's 11/2" to 2" back from the bottom track or the door may not open.
18-3
18-4
FROZEN WATER & SEWER LINES
Prevent & Thaw
Chapter 19
_______________________________________________________
Frozen waterlines
If you've gotten a cold snap and discovered you’re without water, most likely your waterline is
frozen. Probably the hardest part about thawing a frozen waterline is determining exactly where
it is frozen.
First, check all of your faucets. Are you getting water from any of them? If not, then most likely
your main waterline to the home is frozen. If you are getting some water, then the likely culprit is
a tear or opening in your underbelly that's letting cold air reach a nearby waterline.
If your main waterline is frozen, first thing you should do is check
the heat tape. It should feel warm to the touch. If it doesn't, make
sure the outlet that the heat tape is plugged into is working. If you
have a thermostat on the heat tape, make sure that it isn't located
in a warm spot preventing the heat-tape from coming on. If none
of these suggestions solve your problem, then you'll probably
need to replace the heat tape (see Chapter 17).
If your heat tape is warm and you’re still not getting any water,
the next likely place that's froze is your water riser. Your water
riser is where your water comes out of the ground. Oftentimes the
riser comes up through a small culvert. Your heat tape should
extend down into the culvert several feet along the waterline.
Also, insulation should be stuffed around the top of the culvert. If
you don't have any insulation covering the top, you may be frozen down past the heat tape's
reach. Some water risers have a heat rod that runs down the center of them. Make sure this heat
rod is plugged in and working. Like the heat tape, it will feel warm to the touch.
Sometimes you'll find that the freeze-up is in the water heater room, especially if you have
outside access to your water heater. Make sure your access door is well sealed, not letting in any
drafts.
If you find a pipe that's frozen, it'll usually be very cold to the touch. Unthaw it
using a heat gun. Never use an open flame, like a torch. A hair dryer may also
work, but a heat gun, like those used in stripping paint, work exceptionally well
on a medium setting. When thawing, a faucet open so you can tell whether or
not you’re succeeding. For freeze-ups deep inside culverts, you may have to
rent a nibco-type heater like the one pictured on page 19-3 to help thaw them. If your whole main
line is frozen because of a bad heat tape, install a new heat tape (see Chapter 17) and let the heat
tape unthaw it. It may take several hours to thaw.
19-1
Frozen Sewer Pipe
You probably have frozen sewer pipes if you flush your toilet and the water backs up in your tub
or shower. But sewer pipes are not supposed to freeze are they? So why do they? There’s two
reasons that sewer lines freeze. First, you have a dripping faucet or running toilet that’s letting
small amounts of water run down the sewer line which eventually freeze and build up causing a
blockage. Second, the sewer line dips or is not properly sloped (1/4” drop per foot) so the water
sits and freezes. Correct a dip or improperly-sloped sewer line by using a level and adding blocks
or shims where necessary.
Don’t Let Faucets Drip
You may have heard or been told that during really cold temperatures, keep
your faucet dripping so your waterlines don't freeze. The reasoning behind this
is that with water constantly flowing through your waterlines, your lines
shouldn't freeze. And to a point this is true, especially if your manufactured
home is prone to freeze-ups.
What you may not know is that a dripping faucet in cold weather could be your next big
nightmare. Sure, it may be keeping your waterlines from freezing, but it could be causing an even
bigger problem — freezing up your sewer lines!
Underneath a typical mobile home is an exposed sewer
line. Generally, one end of this pipe connects from
underneath the toilet to the septic system in the ground.
This line may be anywhere from 4 to 60 feet long and a
home may have more than one line.
As you can imagine, when a trickle of water drops down
into a cold sewer pipe, at some point that water may
freeze. Obviously, the longer the sewer line, the better the chance the water will freeze. If the
slow drip continues building up ice for an extended period of time, a frozen sewer pipe is
inevitable. You'd be better off to do laundry or dishes during cold snaps, than to let the water
trickle.
If you find a dripping faucet, it should be immediately repaired or replaced. Replacing a 10 cent
o-ring will be much less painful than paying a service man $100-$400 to thaw your sewer pipes!
Another inconspicuous source of dripping water is your toilet. Pull the lid off the tank. Inside the
tank you'll see an overflow tube. When the tank is full, the water must be below this tube. If water
appears to come right up to the top edge of this tube, then chances are great that it's dripping
down. If so, adjust the float so the water doesn't come up so high in the tank. If you occasionally
hear your toilet running, then you may be losing water through the flush valve in the bottom of
the tank. If that's the case, replace either the flapper or the whole flush valve. Both problems can
cause dripping into the sewer pipes.
In most cases, a dripping faucet or leaking toilet should not freeze-up your sewer pipes in one
day. But watch out when you leave home for a few days! If you’re worried about dripping water,
one solution would be to simply shut off the water to your home. Also, double-check that your
exposed sewer pipes have a constant downward slope (no flat or level areas). When it comes to
unfreezing, waterlines are much simpler to thaw than sewer pipes.
19-2
Thawing
Simplest way to thaw a frozen sewer pipe is by
using a nibco-type heater. Don’t put the heater
directly underneath the home. Instead, keep it
back a foot or two and shoot the air underneath.
A short piece of stovepipe on the end may help.
NEVER LEAVE A RUNNING HEATER
UNATTENDED!
Before turning on the heater, you’ll get much
quicker results if you can trap the heat around the
pipe instead of heating the entire underneath.
Use long pieces of cardboard underneath the
home to block and hold the heat next to the pipe.
19-3
19-4
WINTERIZING
Drain and Water Lines
Chapter 20
_______________________________________________________
If your leaving town for several weeks or months, you may wish to drain your home's waterlines
to ensure no 'surprises' upon your return. Here's how to get your waterlines ready for a long
vacancy. You may be surprised at how simple it really is: all you need is a garden hose, an air
compressor with a pressure regulator and a waterline blow-out adapter.
DRAINING AND PREP
Step 1 - Shut the power/gas off to water heater.
Step 2 - Turn off the water to home
Step 3 - Attach a garden hose to the spigot at bottom of water heater
(right). To drain the water heater, allow air into the tank by popping
up the trigger on the relief valve (bottom right), or loosen the hot
water line at the top of the tank. Be sure to close the relief valve or
tighten the waterline once the tank is drained. Remove the hose and
close the spigot.
20-1
PRESSURIZE AND BLOW-OUT WATERLINES
Step 1 - Choose one faucet to “charge” your waterlines with air. An
outside faucet or a washing machine faucet work well. Screw-on
the waterline blow-out adapter to the chosen faucet (pictured right).
A blow-out adapter is an air compressor adapter screwed into a
female garden hose swivel connector. The parts to build one are
available at almost any hardware store or can be ordered assembled
at the end of this chapter.
Step 2 - Connect the air hose from the compressor to the blow-out
adapter (below right) and set the hose pressure to 60psi (below
left). DO NOT set the air pressure higher or it may damage your
waterlines.
Step 3 - Turn the compressor on and after a minute start opening up the faucets in the home one at
a time and let the water blow through. For each faucet, open the hot, close the hot then open the
cold. Close the cold and continue to the next faucet. Continue until all the faucets have been
blown out. If you notice air bubbling in your toilet tanks, turn off the water to the toilet or jam the
float up so it stays closed. Don't forget to clear the washing machine faucets and any other
outdoor faucets. Check the drain spigot on the water heater again.
Step 4 - Once you've blown-out each individual faucet, open
all the faucets, disconnect the main waterline from the
ground source and let the air blow for 5-10 minutes. Be sure
the heat-tape is unplugged.
(pictured right is an air compressor hooked up to an exterior
faucet for blowing out the water lines).
20-2
TIPS:
•
•
•
•
With the drain hoses disconnected, run the pump on the washing machine to remove any
remaining water. Laying the machine flat on its back will also usually drain any
remaining water.
The same goes for the dishwasher.
If your main waterline contains a backflow valve, the valve should screw apart
disconnecting the main line. A backflow valve prevents water from draining from the
home back into the water system at times when the main waterline is shut off.
Blow-out the main line separately using an air nozzle.
PROTECT YOUR DRAINS
Step 1 - Flush toilets and sponge out any water remaining in the
tank. Plunge out the remaining water in the bowl. Pour 2-3 cups of
RV antifreeze in the tank and bowl.
B) Pour 1-2 cups of RV antifreeze down each drain,
including the washing machine, showers, bathtubs and
sink drains.
In most cases these steps to draining and protecting your waterlines from freezing will be more
than sufficient. But if you’re really concerned about protecting your waterlines, then perhaps
pumping RV antifreeze into your waterlines is the solution your seeking. If you’ve done a
thorough job of blowing out your waterlines, then pumping them full of RV antifreeze is not
necessary.
20-3
Purchase a blow-out adapter by sending $18.00 (shipping included) to:
Aberdeen Home Repair
P.O. Box 1308
Aberdeen, SD 57402
Or order by calling toll free 1-877-263-7860 and charging it to your
Visa or Mastercard.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
20-4
RELEVELING
Step by Step Instructions
Chapter 21
_______________________________________________________
In order for your manufactured home to function properly, it must be level. The doors, windows,
walls and floors are factory designed to line-up and fit properly on a straight and level frame.
Please, before attempting to relevel your home, first read and understand this chapter first. If you
don’t feel comfortable re-leveling your home, then hire a competent manufactured home
contractor to do the job.
If you’re not inclined to do the releveling process yourself, you can then use this information and
the waterline level to determine whether or not your home is out of level. Or you can simply use
this information to become a better-informed consumer and give yourself the upper hand when it
comes to hiring a contractor to do the job.
Also keep in mind that if your planning any project like a new front door, skirting, porch or
something similar, you should know whether or not your home is level before you start. For
example, if you install a new front door in an unlevel home, you may have to rehang the door for
it to work properly at such time until you choose to relevel the house.
Signs That Your Home is Not Level
How do you know when your home is not level? Probably the most obvious sign is that your
doors begin to stick. Other signs may include:
• bulged skirting
• warped siding
• windows cracked or won’t function properly
• uneven floors, especially along the center seam in a doublewide
• floors squeak or feel spongy
• doors swing closed by themselves
If you experience any of the above signs, your home is most likely out of level, but it could also
have other problems. Only a close inspection will determine your exact problem.
What Causes Your Home to Become Unlevel
Once you determine that your home is not level, the next step is to figure-out what caused your
home to become unlevel. The cause may be one factor, or a combination of several.
The two most common problems are:
1) The support blocks under the home have shifted or sunk.
2) The ground beneath the home has shifted.
21-1
Most homes become unlevel because the blocks used to support
the frame of the home have shifted. This is especially true if
the blocks are not setting on footings. Footings are cement
pillars which extend 3 to 6 feet into the ground and are designed
to minimize any ground movement which may shift your home.
Ideally, all homes should have footings underneath their blocks.
Some homes are set up on either a cement pad or cement
runners, which helps slow down the shifting. But unless
footings were poured underneath this, your home is still
susceptible to shifting, especially in the colder climates.
As more and more manufactured homes are being built with
taped and textured walls, footings are becoming increasingly more important. If a home with
taped and textured walls shifts, the walls will crack. In fact, many dealers will not deliver (or not
warranty) a manufactured home with taped and textured walls unless footings are first poured.
Since many manufactured homes do not have footings, occasional releveling is necessary.
If your home was set-up in the last year or two and has become unlevel, then the most likely
cause is that the ground beneath the blocks has settled. This is very common and can even
happen to recently added or replaced blocks. If your home is new or just moved in, ask your
dealer if a releveling was included in the price of the home. Some dealers will relevel your home
within the first year at no extra charge. Other causes and solutions of your home going out of
level are:
Problem 1 - The ground beneath your home has gotten wet causing the blocks to sink or tip.
Determine the cause of the water and resolve the situation. Be sure you have plenty of ventilation
underneath your home to dry out the ground. Do not attempt to relevel your home until the
ground is dry and the water problem is resolved.
Problem 2 – The wrong type of wooden shims or wooden blocks
are being used. Wooden blocks and shims go between the cement
blocks and the frame and are used for slight leveling adjustments.
Sometimes a set-up crew will level your home using anything
they can find for shims. Shims made of a soft material or soft
wood may eventually crush or shrink causing your home to
become unlevel. Soft wood shims should be replaced with
hardwood shims that won’t compress under pressure. Always
use two hardwood shims together, one from each side. You can
also increase the bearing area on the shims by doubling up as
pictured right.
Problem 3 - Some of the cement blocks have broken. Most of the
time cement blocks break or crack because the ground underneath
the blocks was not smooth and level causing the blocks to sit cockeyed and crack or break due to
uneven pressure on the block. Sometimes blocks break because not enough block sets were used
to support the weight of the house. The solution to this problem is to reset any crooked or broken
blocks on a flat smooth surface and to add addition blocks.
Problem 4 - Your home was set-up unlevel to begin with. This is more common than you would
think, especially if the contractor didn’t use a waterline level. The solution is to relevel your
home.
21-2
Problem 5 - Even though pillars or footings were poured, it is still possible for them to sink or
rise. The main reason for this is normally a high water table. No simple solution here other than
to relocate to a new lot.
Jack Stand Note: In many parts of the country,
main earth-quake prone areas, triangle-shaped jack
stands (pier frame) are the preferred method of
blocking. The steps are still the same, except shims
are not used with jack stands. Instead of using
shims, the jack stands adjust to the proper height by
turning the head. If a jack stand is too tall or short
to be adjusted, then it should be replaced with a
proper sized one. Like blocks, the jack stands need
to be on a smooth level surface and cannot sit
directly on the ground but rather on a pad or pier.
The illustration to the right shows how to properly
install a jack stand, sometimes called a pier frame.
Releveling Your Home
Step 1 – Locate Materials and Tools
To relevel your home you will need to locate the following materials.
• a waterline level (a simple one can be ordered at the end of this chapter).
• 2 to 6 twenty-ton bottle jacks.
• 50’ garden hose in good condition
• hardwood shims and boards
• assortment of cement blocks, 8”, 4” and 2” thick
• eight 4x4” square posts, each 4’ long
• 2-4 jacking plates, sometimes called a frame saver
• short-handled shovel or spade
• pair of adjustable wrenches
Step 2 – Draw a Blocking Diagram
First, either open-up or remove the skirting to gain access to the block sets and steel beams. If
you don’t wish to remove all the skirting, then open up several access holes in each side of the
skirting.
NOTE: If your home does not have skirting and is set-up on a perimeter block solid foundation
wall with only one row of middle blocks supporting the center, then you will not be able to level
your home using this method. Also, if the frame of your home is severely bent, you may not be
able to use this method to level your manufactured home. The step to re-level a home in these
cases are beyond the scope of this book and a professional manufactured home installer should be
contacted.
21-3
Following the example in illustration 1, draw in the supports (block sets) you see under the frame
of your home. If your home is a doublewide, then you’ll need to use two sets of frames; three if
your home is a triplewide. It’s not necessary to draw the supports that are not underneath a steel
frame, such as those under a door or underneath the marriage walls (on a doublewide or
triplewide). You may have more or less supports than drawn below. Draw the amount you have.
You should have supports every 7 to 10 feet apart along the frame of the home. If your home has
a blocking diagram (see Chapter 23), then double check that your blocks have been set according
to the diagram.
illustration 1
Step 3 – Set up the Waterline Level
The only way to accurately check and relevel your home is by using a waterline level. You can
find several different types on the market, or even build one yourself. Our focus will be the type
of waterline level that can be hooked to a garden hose and be purchased at the end of this chapter.
As the name indicates, water seeking it’s own level is the basis for a functioning waterline level.
Assemble the level and fill with water as follows:
1. Unscrew shut-off
valve from first tube.
2. Screw shut-off valve
to water spigot. Position
shut-off valve in
vertical position (open).
3. Screw garden hose to
water shut-off valve.
Note: shut-off valve
is not necessary & may
not be available.
4. Screw male end of
garden hose to female
end of first water level
tube & open breather cap.
21-4
5. Holding water level
tube, slowly turn on water
allowing water to run
until all the air bubbles
have disappeared.
6. Slowly turn off water
and immediately close
breather cap at same
time water is shut off.
7. Turn lever on shut-off
8. Screw male end of
valve to horizonal (closed)
second water level tube
position. Unscrew shut-off
to female end of water
valve from spigot with
shut-off valve. Make sure
garden hose still attached
breather cap is closed
to shut-off valve.
before attaching.
When assembling, it’s important that all connections are sealed well and not leaking. Small leaks
and drips will affect the accuracy of the level.
Step 4 - Determine a Starting Location
In a nutshell, releveling your home means ensuring that the main I-beams that run lengthwise
underneath your home are straight and level. If you own a singlewide home, you’ll have two Ibeams to check. If you own a doublewide, you’ll have to ensure that four I-beams are level, and
six I-beams if you own a triplewide. For the sake of discussion, ‘I-beam,’ ‘beam,’ and ‘frame’
are all considered the same thing.
The first step in using a waterline level is to determine the best starting location, normally along
an outside I-beam. Your goal here is to find the current height that your home is now most level.
Normally this is somewhere in the middle and not at the ends. If your have an area in which your
skirting is bulging or your anchor straps are loose, that’s probably NOT a good area to consider as
a starting location. You want to find a section of your frame that appears to not have moved or
shifted. If determining a starting location is still unclear to you, continue reading.
Step 5 – Calibrate the Waterline Level
At your starting location, hold up both tubes of the
Water
Line
Å
waterline level to the I-beam. Then open the caps
Water line
and turn the knob open (if available) on one tube.
at lip of
Water should flow about halfway up each tube. If
Å frame
not, add or remove water to reach the halfway
point. When holding the tubes side by side, the top
of the water in each tube should be at the exact
same level. We will refer to the ‘top of the water’
as the ‘water line.’ Hold the tubes so the water
line is even with the lip on the bottom of the Ibeam. Close the caps and secure the tube without
the shut-off valve to the closest block-set using
bungy cords or duct tape. This tube is now your stationary tube, the other is your free tube.
21-5
OK, let’s see how our waterline level works. With the caps open, move the free tube up and
down next to the stationery tube. Notice that when the water line in the stationary tube is even
with the bottom lip of the frame, the water line in the free tube is also even. In areas that the
frame is unlevel, the water line in the free tube will not be level to the frame like it is in the
stationary tube.
Step 6 – Gather the Readings
At this point you will need a helper. Your helper’s responsibility will be to watch the water line
in the stationary tube. As you gather your readings, leave the cap open on the stationery tube.
Close the cap on the free tube and move it to the next block set to take the first reading. Open up
the cap. Move the tube up and down until your helper says that the water line in the stationary
tube is even with the bottom lip of the frame. Then look at the water line in the free tube.
If the water line is within ¼ inch above or below the lip of the I-beam, then note it as a ‘0’ on
your blocking diagram. The picture on the right is the stationary tube.
If the water line is more than ¼ inch ABOVE the lip of the I-beam, note its full measurement on
your blocking diagram as a positive number (+½”, for example). The picture on the right is a
stationary tube.
21-6
If the water line is more than ¼ inch BELOW the lip of the I-beam, note its full measurement on
your blocking diagram as a negative number (-¾”, for example). The picture on the right is the
stationary tube.
Note: The water line in the stationary tube must be even with the bottom lip of the I-beam before
you can take a reading in the free tube.
Your first reading is now done. Close the cap and move the free end of the waterline level to the
next block set, open the cap and repeat this step (6) again.
Step 7- Adjust the Starting Location
As you begin writing down your readings, take an early note of the numbers. If you’re noticing
that most all your readings are negative or positive by about the same amount, then you probably
need to adjust your starting location. Move the stationary tube to an area of a common number
and complete the readings.
Step 8 - Analyzing the Readings
If you haven’t guessed by now, the positive numbers represent the areas you need to lift the
frame, and the negative numbers are where you need to lower the frame. Hopefully your
numbers are mostly positive as its easier to lift a frame than it is to lower it.
21-7
illustration 2
Take a look at illustration 2 of our completed blocking diagram for a doublewide. Notice that the
left end appears to be off the most, with the lower left end being off even more. Also notice that
the upper right corner could also use a slight adjustment, along with an occasional spot here and
there.
Step 9 - Prepare Your Home for Releveling
You’ve taken your readings. You’ve calibrated your waterline level. You’ve determined which
areas of your home are most unlevel. It’s now time to go to work.
Below is a checklist which must be referred to before and after you’ve releveled the home.
‰ Sewer Pipes: Examine the point at which the sewer pipes connect to the sewer
system. Visualizing how the home will shift when being releveled, will this create
addition stress at this connection, or will it release stress? If you feel more stress
will be created, then the sewer pipes should be disconnected until after the home has
been releveled. Sometimes the sewer line is sitting on blocks. You may need to
remove some of these blocks before releveling. Always check them after releveling
to see if any need shimmed.
‰ Gas Lines: Examine the point at which the gas line enters the home. Does the line
have a couple inches of up and down flexibility? If so, you probably don’t need to
worry. If you have any concerns, then have the gas shut off and disconnected before
you begin the releveling process. As a general rule shutting the gas off to the home
while releveling is a smart idea.
‰ Water Lines: On most manufactured homes the waterlines are flexible and pose no
problem to a shifting home. But do double check them in case the waterlines are of
21-8
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
a stiff material such as galvanized pipe. To be safe, you can easily shut the water off
to the home by simply turning off the valve that is generally located at the point the
waterline comes out of the ground.
Broken Blocks: Examine all the cement blocks underneath your home. If any of
them appear cracked, broken or improperly set, now is the time to fix them. Check
the blocks again after releveling.
Anchor Straps: In areas of the home that will have to be raised, loosen the anchor
straps. As you begin jacking the home, always eyeball the straps you haven’t
loosened. If the straps appear to be tightening, then stop jacking and loosen them to
avoid any possible damage to the home.
Electrical Wires: The electrical lines generally come out of the ground and up into
your home. The wire should be enclosed in a conduit or a gray-looking plastic pipe.
Grab hold of the pipe and shake it up and down. If the pipe moves, you should have
enough play to be OK. If not, you may need to create some play, especially if your
home is high in that area. Do not attempt to work around the pipe without shutting
off the electricity to your home.
Adjacent Structures: If one side of a deck or porch is attached to the home, then the
deck or porch needs to be either disconnected or leveled along with the home,
assuming that area of the home needs to be releveled. Even though the deck or
porch is attached to the home, the home should not be supporting the structure. If
the home is supporting the structure, then add blocks underneath the structure.
Serious damage can be caused to the structure of your home if your deck or porch is
not self supporting.
Skirting: Once the releveling is complete, you may need to adjust the skirting around
your home. If your readings show that part of the home will need lowering, then the
skirting should be removed from around the house in that area.
Weather: Do not relevel your home if the temperature has been below freezing for
several days. This isn’t to say that your home can’t be releveled when its cold, but
damage is less likely to occur if your not shifting a frozen home.
Final Look: Do a final inspection looking for anything that could pose a problem
when adjusting your home. Normally, cable and phone wires pose no threat, but
take a look anyway. Look for anything unusual, and look again after the home has
been releveled.
Step 10 - Jacking Your Home Level
After you’ve done the readings and analyzed your completed blocking diagram, you can now
start leveling your home. Follow these steps when jacking.
Step A – Raise up any low ends first (or lower any high ends). When lifting an end, put a jack
under each I-beam and lift together. Position the jack 4-6 feet in from the end of each I-beam.
In illustration 2, you’d position 4 jacks on the left side between the first and second block sets.
Step B – If you have a significant sag across the middle of the home, position your jacks under
each beam at the sag and lift together. Sags are most likely to occur in the axle area, especially if
the tires are still on the home. The middle area will lift a lot harder than the ends, so be sure your
jacks have a good base and use frame plates (illustration 3) on top. The home in illustration 2 has
no significant sag in the middle.
21-9
Step C - After completing steps A and B, your home should be about 80% level. The final step
is to fine-tune each individual I-beam. Start with the beam that needs the most adjusting. Using
at least 2 jacks, work your way down each beam adjusting the beam up or down at each block set
till it shows level on your waterline level. If you have 1 beam that’s an inch or more lower than
the other beams, it would be best to lift the whole beam at once using at least 4 jacks. In
illustration 2, you would start by leveling the bottom row.
illustration 4
With this particular home, the first step to level is to lift the frame at the four black X’s on the left and shim
into place. Then lift at the black X’s at the upper right and shim. Then start lifting each row. The X’s
marked in gray indicate the first row to lift up to level. Then do the same to the other remaining rows.
IMPORTANT: If an adjustment of more than one inch is needed on a home with tape & textured
walls, adjust one inch then wait 2 weeks before making any further adjustments. Manufactured
homes built with tape and textured walls should
be set on permanent footings.
Proper Jacking Method
Probably the biggest secret to lifting a home is a
good base underneath a proper-sized jack. 20-ton
bottle jacks are preferred.
Unless your home is sitting on a cement slab or
accessible runners, proper-sized bases underneath
your jacks is essential. The biggest mistake a doit-yourselfer makes is using bases that are too small
picture shown without jacking plate.
21-10
or weak. This will cause your jacks to sink or slip and add unnecessary frustration to the whole
job. Two 4’ long 4x4” boards laid side by side work best. If your working in wet or really soft
soil, you may need to first lay down a chunk or two of ¾” plywood.
A jacking plate (right) should also be used with
each bottle jack. A jacking plate will protect the
frame from kinking and help prevent the jack
from kicking out.
As mentioned before, lift all jacks at the same
time, or jack each one a little at a time. As you
jack up, keep the blocking tight to the beam by
shimming or twisting up the shafts. If something
would ever slip, your home would not drop. Use your waterline level as you jack. Raise the
frame a little higher than the level mark, as it will normally settle when you release the jacks.
illustration 5
If your home uses cement blocks for support, illustration 5 gives some guidelines in stacking
them.
Final Words
At this point your home should be level. If you leveled a multi-section house, you still
have the blocks down the middle of the seam. Go back along and tighten these up to the
seams. On some of the newer homes, the manufacturer recommends blocks underneath
all the doors. It is in the author’s opinion at this time that these blocks serve no real
purpose. If your home is still under warranty, then you’ll have to tighten-up and leave
these blocks. If your home is out of warranty, I would consider removing them.
Purposively the blocks help keep your door from shifting and sticking. In most all cases,
you can make the same adjustment back along the I-beam
21-11
For in-depth information on anchoring, blocking, site preparation and a host of other topics,
order the booklet titled, “Manufactured Home Installation Training Manual” from our website,
www.mobilehomerepair.com, or by contacting HUD.
To order the waterline level discussed in this chapter, please send $12 (shipping
included) to:
Aberdeen Home Repair
P.O. Box 1308
Aberdeen, SD 57402
Or call toll free at 1-877-263-7860 and charge it to your Visa or Mastercard.
21-12
Blocking Diagram
Use one for a singlewide, two for a doublewide and three for a triplewide.
Draw in the position of supports and note any difference over ¼ inch as
indicated by the waterline level.
See instructions for example and more details.
21-13
21-14
BASEMENTS
Overview of Adding a Basement
Chapter 22
_______________________________________________________
Adding a basement can double your living space. Although step by step detailed instructions of
installing a basement is beyond the scope of this book, this broad overview will give you a good
idea of how the job is completed to build a wooden basement.
A very skilled handyman could do much of the work himself, even dig the basement with a
skidsteer. If you’re contemplating doing this project yourself, purchasing a good used skidsteer
would be highly recommended. If you had no use for a skidsteer once the project was completed,
simply sell it and you’d likely recover most of your purchase price. In this case, buying a
skidsteer would definitely be cheaper than renting as you’ll need it for 3-6 months.
Preparing the Site
Step 1 - Prepare to lift the home by removing
skirting and disconnecting utilities (left).
Step 2 – Hire a house mover to slide beams
underneath and then lift the home 4-6 feet up in the
air where it will stay throughout the process (both
photos below).
Step 3 – Dig a ramp to access the underneath of the
home with a skidsteer (left).
22-1
Step 4 – Dig and remove the dirt from underneath the
home. In this picture, one skidsteer was used to breakup the dirt using a fork attachment while the other
hauled it out (left).
Expect the digging to take almost a week with 1
skidsteer; 3-4 days with two (below left).
Don’t underestimate how much dirt will come out
(below right).
Building the Basement
Step 1 – First step to building the walls is to pour a
footing. A typical footing is 16” wide x 8” deep. Set
the concrete forms for pouring the footing. The forms
must be set exactly square and the exact size of the
home. Drain tile should also be laid at this time. 2x8
boards will work as forms (left).
Step 2 – Install ½” rebar and fill the footing forms
with concrete and smooth (below left).
Step 3 – Construct the walls and set on the footing
(below right)
22-2
Step 3 cont. – The walls are constructed of green
treated 2x8’s one foot on center with ¾” green-treated
plywood as sheathing on the outside. All wood is
deep treated (.66) and normally special ordered that
way.
So materials can easily be taken in and out of the
basement, an opening is left in the wall by the ramp
until the floor is poured (lower left).
Step 4 – Stub in the basement plumbing. Pex tubing for the heated floor could also be installed at
this time (lower right).
Step 5 – Pour concrete footing pads down the middle
of the home for the support posts.
Step 6 – Pour and screed smooth the basement floor
(lower left).
Step 7 - Pour one side of the basement floor the first
day, then the other the next day (lower left).
22-3
Installing the Support Beams
Step 1 - Place the metal I-beams from side-wall to sidewall.
There will be approximately 1 beam per 10’ (left and lower
left).
Step 2 – Set the support poles down the middle to support the
center weight of the home (lower right).
Step 3 – Have the house mover lower the home onto the
basement walls (no picture).
Exterior Finish Work
Step 1 - Once the house is lowered down, wrap 6 mil
sheathing around the basement walls and carefully
backfill. Backfill half way up with pea rock and the
remainder of the way with dirt. The dirt should be
compacted as its filled (left).
Step 2 – Install the window wells. Ideally, a piece of
drain pipe from the window well should be connected
to the drain tile system before any backfilling is done.
If not that, then the windows should have a cover
(left). Finally, install siding on the part of the
basement walls that are exposed above the ground (no
picture).
22-4
Interior Finish Work
Step 1 – Add insulation and a vapor barrier to the
exterior walls (left).
Step 2 - Cut an opening into the home and construct the
stairs. The stairs will have to be located in the middle of
one side of the home, presumably in an area that will
involve the least amount of obstructions. Even then, most
likely at least one steel beam will have to be cut and
braced from below with posts.
Step 3 - Finish off the rest of the basement to your
liking (left).
22-5
Basement Options
To construct this basement, the home was set
to the side by a housemover in preparation for
cement walls.
Sewer lines are set in place. In this case, the lines
drain into a sealed bucket which is then pumped up to
the septic system as it fills.
Also pictured is tubing for the heated floor. The
cement floor will be poured right over the tubing. The
tubing is laid in sections (zones) so different areas of
the basement can be heated to separate temperatures.
Each zone is one long piece of tubing. No connectors
are to be used underneath the floor.
On this job the tubing is tied to pieces of rebar.
After the cement floor is poured and the basement is
completed, the heated floor tubing is hooked to
pumps, controls and a heater. A freeze-proof solution
is heated and pumped through the tubes to heat the
floor and the basement.
22-6
FOUNDATION/SITE PREP
Installing Pier Footings
Chapter 23
_______________________________________________________
One of the cheapest investments a new homeowner can make is a solid foundation. Footings
greatly help minimize the shifting of a home over the seasons, especially in colder areas. Several
options exist for foundations, but pier footings tend to be the least expensive and easiest to install.
Pier footings are simply concrete pillars underneath each block set, as the drawing below
indicates.
Installation
Step 1 – Obtain a blocking print for the home you wish to set on footings. The blocking print
will show you the exact location of each block set. Below is an example of a blocking print for a
doublewide home.
23-1
Step 2 – Prepare your lot. For best results, level the area in which the home will be set. You also
want the area to be higher than the rest of the lot so water will drain away from the home. If you
need some height, haul in some good packing dirt like clay and pack well. Use a waterline level
or lazer level to determine if your site is level. Work the area out past the edge of the home so
you also have a flat even surface over which to run the skirting.
Step 3 – Using your blocking print, measure and pound stakes in the four corners.
IMPORTANT – YOU MUST BE PERFECTLY SQUARE. If you’re not square, your
footings will not line up and the whole process will be a waste of time and money. To determine
if your 4 stakes are square, measure the distance from the northeast stake to the southwest stake.
Then measure the distance from the northwest stake to the southeast stake. If you’re square, these
two measurements will be the same. If not, make adjustments without changing the measurement
of the length or width. In otherwords, stakes will have to be moved in pairs.
Step 4 – Following the measurements on your blocking print, mark the location of each footing.
Using bright orange marking paint, sketch an X at each footing location. For instance, if you’re
pouring footings for a doublewide, you’ll have 5 rows of footings. After careful measurements
across each end, pound a stake at the start of each row and pull a string to a stake at the other end.
Again, DOUBLECHECK all measurements to ensure accurate location of all footings.
Step 5 – Drill 17” wide holes down to the frostline.
The frostline varies from 2-6 feet depending upon
your area of the country. Since most homes will have
50 or more holes, digging them by hand will be nearly
impossible. A skidsteer or tractor with a posthole
digger is the ideal solution. For do-it-yourselfers,
skidsteers can be rented rather inexpensively,
especially if your all set-up and ready to save dollars
on hours rented. Once the holes are drilled, dig-out by
hand any loose dirt that may not have come up.
Before digging, be sure to have the utilites located.
Step 6 – Construct 2’x2’ concrete forms for
the top of each footing from 2”x4”x8’ boards.
Set and level each form over the hole. Spray
the insides with old motor oil so the forms can
be easily removed later. Note: This step may
be omitted if you choose to leave the piers flat
at ground level. However, check with your
lender and manufacturer for their
requirements.
23-2
Step 7 – Insert two piece of 5/8” rebar into each hole.
Step 8 – Pour concrete into each hole and
smooth the tops. This step will require a
couple helpers. One person will need to work
the chute of the cement truck filling the holes
while at least one other person (preferably
two) will need to level off the tops of the piers
as they are poured. 4,000-5,000 psi concrete
should be used. Before leveling, use a
vibrator or shake your shovel in the wet
concrete to help create smooth sides. If you
installed the 2’x2’ wood forms, leveling will
be easy as you can use the top of the forms as
a guide. If you opt not to use the forms,
leveling will be a bit more difficult as you
smooth the cement to the ground. With the concrete still wet, insert anchors as required by the
manufacturer or HUD.
Step 9 – Once the bleed water which surfaces
during the initial stages of the curing process
has evaporated, cover the tops of the footing
with pieces of plastic or craft paper and let cure
for 2-3 days. Especially if its hot, concrete that
cures too fast will not be as strong and may have
a tendency to more easily crack, so keep it
covered or keep it wet.
Step 10 – Remove the concrete forms from
around the footing. Bring in a load or two of
gravel and spread around the tops of the
concrete piers. Not only will this enhance
drainage, but it will also give you a dry surface for working underneath the home. If you opted
not to use the wooden forms, then you may not wish to spread gravel as it would cover the tops of
the piers.
Once the utilities are dug in, you are now ready for the home to be set. You also may wish to put
down a layer of 6mil plastic before setting the house. This helps keep the ground moisture from
evaporating up under the home.
23-3
23-4
SKIRTING
Installing Block, Rock, Metal, Vinyl and Insulated Skirting
Chapter 24
_______________________________________________________
Skirting serves several important purposes on a manufactured home. Skirting insulates, holds in
heat, protects against the elements and keeps out the critters. It also adds esthetic beauty to the
home.
Unless both the home and skirting are supported by a footing that extends down into the ground
past the frostline (i.e. frostline footing), the skirting must be installed so its allowed to shift as the
ground moves without damaging the skirting itself or the home. Skirting must also allow your
home to breathe through vents. Lastly, skirting is not designed to support a home, it is merely a
way to finish off your home and offer protection to the underneath.
Block Skirting
Looking for a way to make a manufactured home look more residential? Block skirting is the
answer. Block skirting is the most expensive of all the skirting options, but it’s also the most
durable option if installed correctly. Block skirting should only be installed under 2 conditions:
the home and the skirting are supported by a frostline footing or the home and skirting are on a
full cement slab (preferably with footings underneath but may work if footings aren’t present).
Digging a Footing
Obviously, digging a footing is rather difficult with the home already set in place. If your home
is not already on a frostline footing, its best to abandon the project. If your home is already
sitting on a frostline footing, do the following:
1) Dig a footing for the block skirting by using a small backhoe and digging down 4-6 feet
deep right next to your home all the way around.
2) Using a shovel, scrape the sides of the trench wider working the footing underneath the
edge of the home.
3) Remove the loose dirt from the trench with the backhoe.
4) Using sheets of plywood, form-up a 12” wide footing level to the top of the ground.
Insert rebar and fill it with concrete.
5) Once the concrete cures, remove the forms and backfill the hole. The top of the footing
needs to be a flat, level 12” wide all the way around the home, but you can save on
concrete by narrowing the bottom portion of the footing
Is digging a footing underneath an existing home worth the
expense? That’s your call. Before digging, be sure to have the
utilities located.
Installation
1. The top of the footing or slab should be 24-25” from the
home for a three-block high skirting. Using a plumb-bob,
determine each corner and snap a chalkline from corner to
corner. This will give you a guide to set your corners. The
block skirting should sit just inside your siding, which
normally hangs down an inch or so on the house.
24-1
TIP: When laying block, notice how the ends on one
side of the block are wider than the other. Always lay
your block with the wider end facing up. Actually, it
doesn’t make much difference which end is up, but it’s
sure a lot easier to set your mud (mortar) on a wider
surface. Also, if the blocks are hot and dry, wet them
down so the moisture in the mortar is not instantly
sucked into the pours of the concrete.
2. As in any block project, start by building all your
corners. Mix only enough mortar you can use in
about a half hour. (Basically follow the
instructions on the bag.) I always like to add a
touch of portland cement to the mix for a stronger
bond. After you set about 4 blocks you’ll quickly
learn to what consistency to mix the mortar. If the
mortar is too thin, it won’t stick or sit on the block
and will squish out when you lay a block on top of
it. If its too thick, it won’t stick and may fall off
before you can set the block in place.
3. Place down a generous layer of mud on the slab and set your first block. Then continue
building your corner as pictured below leaving about a ½” gap of mud between the
blocks. Use a level to ensure you have a level corner. Until you get the hang of the mud,
use generous portions and don’t forget to butter (mud) the two grooves in each end of the
block before butting.
24-2
4. Before the gaps (joints) harden, shape them
using a tooling spoon available in most
hardware stores.
By the time you get your corners built and level, you’ll
practically be a pro at laying block. Pictured left is a
completed corner.
5. Lay the middle blocks between the corners.
The trick is to keep the blocks all the same
height from corner to corner. This is easily
accomplished by pulling a tight string from
corner to corner. Wooden blocks which hook
onto the side of the cement block (in picture at
left) aid in setting the string at the exact
height.
6. On the second row, work in your vents by leaving an occasional block out. Vents or
windows can be purchased which fit the exact opening of one block. At a minimum,
skirting must be vented in all four corners. A good rule of thumb is at least one square
foot of open vent area per 150 square foot of floor area. Keep in mind that vents with
insect screens, louvers etc reduce the effective open area of the vent by 30-50%. Since
you’ll want insect screens and louvers on your skirting vents, be sure to calculate the
added 30-50% when determining the number of vents you will need to install in your
skirting. Don’t forget to leave an opening or two for access.
7. The block skirting is installed. Since the
block skirting is not attached to your home,
you may have a gap at the top. One method of
closing the gap is to use a piece of sill seal
foam. It comes in 50’ rolls. I like to buy the
6” wide roll, fold it in half and shove it into
the gap. By folding it in half, the sill seal will
try to open, sealing the gap.
24-3
Vinyl Rock Skirting
Because of its realistic look, vinyl rock
skirting is gaining popularity. Quality,
however, does vary with manufacturers, so
check around. Pros and cons of vinyl rock
skirting are:
Pros:
Very realistic and attractive.
Never needs painting.
Will not peel, blister, rot, rust or
corrode.
Easy to clean, just hose off.
Will not dent.
Cons: Tough to work with in cold temps, may crack or break.
More expensive than traditional vinyl skirting.
Time consuming to install.
Flying debris (mowers and weed trimmers) may punch holes in panels.
Expands and contracts with the seasons.
Little insulating value.
Installation
Some skirting kits will include a track. Throw the track away. You’ll get much better results if
the skirting is ‘hung’, not set into a track. In a nutshell the panels are attached to a wooden frame
and screwed to the underside of the home.
Materials:
•
•
•
•
Rock skirting vinyl kit with enough material for your size of home (kit
should include panels, screws, stakes, vents & access doors)
10’ long 2x2 boards to construct frame
3-1/2” wood screws
Saw, tin snips, shovel, drill, drill bits, screw bit, utility knife
Step 1 – Trimming the Rock Panels
The panels can be installed in any direction, but they must first be first trimmed to fit. The
skirting panels come with a flange. Remove this flange by scoring them with a utility knife and
breaking it off. Each side of a panel is marked as Side A or Side B (or Side 1 and Side 2). Cut
along the curved lines of the rock on Side B so it meshes with Side A. Throughout this project,
always cut the same side. Never alter between cutting side A and B. Tin snips work great for
cutting along the curve. If the panels are too tall, cut them off at the bottom using a skill saw with
a backwards plywood blade.
24-4
Step 2 – Constructing the Frame
Since most panels are 5’ long, it’s easiest to work in 10’ sections, or two panels. On the first 10’
section, measure the distance from the ground to the home. If it’s not even, use a shovel to level
it out. Build your first 10’ frame to that width.
The frames are constructed out of the 10’ long 2x2 boards. The first frame can be 10’ long, but
the remaining frames will be about 3” shorter so the panels can overlap when the frames are
screwed together. Until you get the hang of it, start by constructing and installing several panels
before getting too far ahead of yourself.
Step 3 – Attaching Panels to Frame
Screw two panels to the 10’ long 2x2 wooden
frame using the colored screws supplied in the
kit. Screw them into the mortar. When
properly trimmed, the panel will appear as one
long seamless rock wall. To get the rock
skirting to look seamless takes patience; so
don’t get frustrated and don’t be in a hurry.
24-5
Step 4 – Hanging Panels on House
Fasten the panels to the home by screwing up through
the top 2x2 into the home. Hold the bottom in place
by driving long nails thru the 4 holes drilled into the
bottom 2x2. Connect the next 10’ panel the same
way, making sure that the rocks mesh correctly.
Screw the two 2x2’s together at the seam. In the
photo to the left, 2x4’s we’re actually used for the top
and bottom. That’s OK but not necessary.
Step 5 – Corners, Angles and Doors: When meeting the panels
at a square 90 degree corner, it’s best to leave part of the flange
on one panel and lap over as pictured left.
When traveling
around angles or
corners less than
90 degrees, you
can still overlap
the flange if the
panels happen to
meet at the corner
(photo far left), or
bend the panel using a heat gun and some gentle force (sorry, a
hair dryer won’t give off enough heat to work). Bending at 90
degree angles is not recommended because the vinyl may have a tendency to crack during the
cold. Bending at 45 degrees and less is generally OK.
Doors are basically a short panel. Simply install them like a regular panel except there’s
normally not any rock to cut around. If the door panels need to be cut shorter, cut them off at the
top.
When skirting around gas lines and other obtrusions, the frame will have to be adjusted as shown
in the photos below. When installing, sometimes it’ll be easier to first set the frame in place, then
screw on the rock panels.
24-6
Vinyl Skirting
In many parts of the country, vinyl skirting
packages are considered standard with all new
mobile homes. They are quick to install and the
least expensive of any skirting option available.
Some building suppliers also carry vinyl skirting.
What exactly is vinyl skirting? In some cases
vinyl skirting is vertical siding or vented and
unvented soffit panels. In fact, you can pick up all
the pieces to do the job from your local vinyl
siding dealer except the top rail assembly and
wind rods. You may have to obtain the latter
items from a mobile home parts dealer. If you can
get all the pieces to fit, you could save money over purchasing a vinyl skirting kit when you buy
vinyl soffit panels. Just keep in mind that panels from a skirting kit lock together while soffit
panels slide together and may come apart if not kept tight.
Materials:
Here’s a checklist of materials you will need for vinyl skirting.
‰ Skirting kit for your size home OR
‰ 24-30 panels, 12 ft long, 16 inches wide
‰ 4-6 vented panels, 12 ft long, 16 inches wide
‰ 14-20 top front rails, 11 ft long, for top track assembly
‰ 14-20 top back rails, 11 ft long, for top rack assembly
‰ 14-20 bottom tracks or F channel
‰ 250 screws for screwing on back rail to home
‰ 100 ground spikes or 7 inch nails for fastening bottom rails in place
‰ 10-14 treated wood 2x4 studs 16’ long for support behind the track
‰ 50 wood stakes 12 inches or longer to secure 2x4 studs
‰ Tin snips, skill saw with backwards plywood blade
Note: The number of panels is determined by the height of the home, the width of the panel and
the perimeter of the home. Panel widths may vary by manufacturer.
Step 1 - Attach Back Rail
For homes with vinyl siding, mount the back rail along
the bottom row of siding. Caulking along the top edge
is not necessary if properly snugged up against the
siding.
For homes with wood/masonite siding, mount the back
rail on top of the wood trim. If your home is not new,
check that the trim is in good shape and not rotting. If
it is rotting, first remove the trim and attach the back
rail in its place. Cut the corner trim even with the top
of the back rail. Adding new trim is not necessary.
Caulk along the top edge of the back rail.
For homes with metal or other siding, mark a straight line about 4” up from the bottom using a
chalk line. Be sure the area below chalk line is solid enough (not rotting) to support screws.
24-7
Starting on the back side of the home, attach the back rail by inserting a screw in the center of
every other slot. Leave a 1/16” gap between the head of the screw and the back railing for normal
expansion and contraction with temperature changes. Also, provide a ½” gap between each back
rail section.
Step 2 - Mount Bottom Track
Be sure the ground is smooth and free of clumps and
bumps. At each corner drop a plumb bob and mark
its location on the ground with a stake. Snap a chalk
line or stretch a nylon string between each corner
post to guide the bottom track. The straighter the
bottom track is laid out, the better your skirting will
look.
Install the bottom track along this line by driving 7”
nails through every third slot (or roughly every 19
inches). To wrap the track around the corner, make
a cut as shown to the right.
As an option you may wish to further support the bottom track
from being pushed or blown in with treated 2x4 studs or landscape
timbers. Treated lumber will withstand rotting for a much greater
period of time. If you intend to plant flowers or do any
landscaping around the edge of your home, this option is a must.
Position the timber snug against the track on the inside. Pound
stakes behind the timber to secure it against the track. If your track
is located on cement and is properly mounted with Tapcon or
similar concrete fasteners, you won’t need the extra support.
Step 3 - Cut and Install Vinyl Panels
Begin 2’ from the highest corner. Measure from the
track to 2-1/2” inches below the top edge of the back
rail. If your installing skirting while the ground is still
frozen, measure to 1-1/2” below the top edge of the
back rail (basically in the center.) These
measurements will give your skirting room to move
when the ground heaves and thaws with the seasons.
24-8
Transfer this measurement to the 12’ skirting panel
and cut using either the aviation snips or circular saw
with a backwards plywood (fine) blade. Punch lock a
couple tabs along the bottom edge. The tabs should be
punched outward to hook the edge of the bottom track
so the panel stays put. Measure and cut the next panel
and interlock with the first panel. About every 5-6
panels, cut and install a vented panel.
As you continue
installing the panels, drop in a wind rod every third panel. The
wind rod hooks to the back rail and helps keep the panels from
blowing out (left picture). The stiffer round wind rods work
better than the thin flat ones.
When you reach a corner, simply bend the panel around it.
Once you know where to bend the panel, prebend it before
installing. No heat is required to prebend the panel.
Most of the time the very last panel won’t match up perfect to
the first panel so it can’t be interlocked. In that case simply
pull the panel tight, overlap it with the first panel and secure
with 3-4 screws.
When you meet up with an obstacle like a pipe or wire, measure and
mark where the object will protrude through the panel. Make a slit
from the nearest edge to where the pipe or wire will protrude and
make a cutout. Keep the cutouts tight. Slide the panel back into the
track slipping over the protruding object. If you deem the cutout too
big, fill in the gap with some expanding spray foam.
Step 4 - Snap-In Front Rail
Install the front rail by simply snapping it into the back rail. For the best appearance, the rail
should wrap around all corners. Overlap with the next rail by 1-2 inches”
24-9
Step 5 - Access Door
Really, you have no actual door. With this type of skirting, simply remove a section of the front
rail and slide up a piece of paneling anywhere along the home. Some panels do have windrods or
snap locks or screws at the bottom, which makes sliding them up more difficult. Instead choose
about 2 places in the skirting to make an access; near water shut-offs are a good places. In those
areas, make it so 2 skirting panels slide up easily by cutting the front rail so only a short piece
comes off, and make sure those two pieces of skirting have no snap locks, windrods or screws
impeding their removal. Now you have a simple, hidden door.
Step 6 - Screw the Bottom
As a final step, insert one screw about every 3 panels
along the bottom. This will double-ensure that the
skirting stays put in its track.
.
Step 7 – Future Adjustments
As long as you keep the lawnmower and weed eater
away from it, your skirting should be troublefree for
many years. If in time you do find your skirting
buckling during the winter (left), then simply remove
the front rail and windrods and cut 1-1/2 to 2” off the
top with a tin snips. Although a sinking house will
cause skirting to buckle, the main culprit is saturated
frozen soil expanding up (frost heave).
Metal Skirting
Years and years ago the most common type
of skirting for manufactured homes was
metal. However, back then most metal
skirting had that colorless galvanized look.
Soon, other types of skirting found their
way onto the market: vinyl and thermal.
Today metal skirting deserves another look.
Unlike skirting of years past, corrugated
metal is now available in many baked-on
colors and shapes. With proper insulation
metal skirting has many definite advantages.
For instance, it's much more rigid than
vinyl, maintenance free unlike thermal, it will not blow off and can be easily insulated. In
addition, it'll look great for years, seals under the home against rodents and the cost of the
materials isn't any greater than that of other skirting options (though it may take longer to install).
24-10
Installation Instructions
Metal skirting is rugged, requires no maintenance and looks modern. Below is one recommended
method for installing corrugated metal skirting, but there are other options.
Materials:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Corrugated metal in your choice of color
Matching self-tapping screws with rubber washers
J-Channel for top track
Corner channel
16’ treated 2x4's
Wooden stakes
3-1/2” galvanized wood screws
Pea rock
Vents.
Step 1- Install top track
Screw J-Channel about 4” up from the bottom of the
home. If possible, use the existing trim or the
bottom row of vinyl siding as a guide. If there aren’t
any, then snap a chalkline. You do not have to
remove the bottom row of siding, but hardboard trim
should be removed prior to installing the J-Channel.
The J-Channel is the white strip across the top. The
top edge of the skirting (pictured right) will fit into
this J-Channel. Install this completely around the
home.
Step 2 - Establish bottom of skirting location
At each corner hang down a plumb-bob and pound a big nail or piece of rebar into the ground. Do
this to all four corners. Tie a mason's string to one of the nails, and pull it tight around the
perimeter of the home tying it to all the corner nails. Double-check with a level to be sure the
string line along the ground is straight down from the
edge of the mobile home
Step 3 - Install bottom support (right)
Behind but next to the string line, cut and lay on edge
enough green-treated 2x4's to go around the perimeter
of the home. Behind the 2x4's pound wooden stakes
every 4-6 feet. Lift the 2x4's about 1” off of the
ground and screw one 3-1/2” galvanized screw into
each stake.
24-11
Step 4 - Prepare pea-rock trench
In front of the 2x4's, dig a 6” deep trench with a spade around
the perimeter of the home. (right). Be careful around the
stakes.
Step 5 – Cut and install skirting
Measure and cut the ribbed metal sheets to length. The metal
can be cut with a metal-cutting blade in a circular saw (or use
an old blade installed backwards). Or better yet, use a cutter
that looks like a big paper cutter. Just pull the handle.
Sheets of metal should fit under the J-channel and down about
mid-way in the pea-rock trench. Do not let the metal sit on the
bottom of the trench as it needs room to shift up and down
with the seasons.
First install the corner piece (right). Bend it at 90 degrees to
create the corner. Install it straight using a level.
Now would also be the time to install insulation. For
insulation tips, see end of chapter.
Measure the lengths of the sheets often, as the lengths
could change as often as every 3’. Screw the sheets to
the bottom 2x4 support and at the top. Also add one
screw in the middle of seam. Use self-tapping screws
that match the color of the metal.
24-12
Step 6 – Add drain tile and pea rock to trench
If you have trouble with water standing underneath your home,
you may wish to add drain tile around your skirting to help
divert water away from your home or to a sump hole. Drain
tile is simply black pipe with slits to allow the water inside.
First add some pea rock to the bottom of your trench, then lay
the drain tile on top. Then fill the trench level full with pea
rock.
The peak rock serves two purposes! It does an excellent job of
keeping rodents out and if the ground would heave or swell, the
pea rock will push up around the skirting reducing the chance
of the skirting shifting up.
If you live on ground that tends to heave real bad during the
winter, you may want to then use a deep J-Channel for the top
track and not screw the metal panels to the home. Screw them
only to the 2x4's. When inserting the panels into the top JChannel, do not push them all the way to the top. This
method will give your skirting more space to shift or flex
with the ground.
Because metal skirting is so rigid, landscaping is a breeze as
you don't have to worry about the dirt pushing in the skirting.
A good idea is to put a piece of black plastic over the pea
rock before spreading dirt.
If you currently have thermal skirting, you could use it for insulation by installing the metal
skirting right over it. If you don't have old thermal skirting, you could add insulating board or
bead board. More insulating tips at the end of the chapter.
Step 7 - Build vents and doors
Cut holes and install air vents into the skirting. Also install
two doors, one on each side. For convenience, locate one door
near the water shut-off valve.
Venting Caution: At a minimum, skirting must be vented in
all four corners. A good rule of thumb is at least one square
foot of open vent area per 150 square foot of floor area. Keep
in mind that vents with insect screens, louvers etc reduce the
effective open area of the vent by 30-50%. Since you’ll want
insect screens and louvers on your skirting vents, be sure to
calculate the added 30-50% when determining the number of
vents you will need to install in your skirting.
24-13
Thermal Skirting
Used mainly in colder climates, thermal skirting is a
type of rigid Styrofoam which normally has a brick
look and an insulation value of R-4. Some types of
thermal skirting have a texture made of pebbles
which help protect the outside surface from
abrasion.
The pros and cons of thermal skirting are:
Pros:
Helps protect pipes from freezing
Looks like brick
Simple to install
Minimal expansion and contraction unlike vinyl.
Cons: High maintenance
Non-pebbled surfaces will need to be painted at least every other year
Attracts insects and birds
Soaks up standing water
Not suitable for skirting needs higher than 30”
Limited choice of color (but is paintable)
Difficult to remove and reinstall individual panels for access under the home
Fragile, breaks easily and pits
Installation
Step 1 - Attach upper support
Vinyl and metal skirting are normally installed on the
outside edge of the house. Thermal skirting, however,
is installed just under the edge of the house with the
top screwed to a 2x2 wood stud. The wood stud is
screwed underneath the home 2-1/2” in from the
outside edge. The picture to the right shows the
skirting from underneath the home. Notice the 2x2 at
the top. The skirting is screwed to it from the outside.
In some instances, you may not be able to screw the
skirting underneath the edge of the home if the metal
frame of the house is in the way. In this case, screw
the siding to the outside of the home. The picture to
the left shows both instances. The front shows the
skirting attached just underneath the edge of the home.
The side shows the skirting attached to the outside of
the home.
24-14
Step 2 - Mount bottom track
Be sure the ground is smooth and free of clumps and bumps. At each corner drop a plumb bob
and mark its location on the ground with a stake. Snap a chalk line or stretch a nylon string
between each corner post to guide the bottom track. The straighter the bottom track is laid, the
better your skirting will look.
Install the bottom track along this line by driving 7” nails through every third slot (or roughly
every 19”). Be sure the high side of the track is to the back.
You may wish to further support the bottom track from being pushed or blown in with treated 2x4
studs or landscape timbers. Treated lumber will withstand rotting for a much greater period of
time. If you intend to plant flowers or do any landscaping around the edge of your home, this
option is a must. Position the timber snug against the track on the inside. Pound stakes behind
the timber to secure it against the track. If your track is located on cement and is properly
mounted with Tapcon or similar fasteners, you shouldn’t need the extra support.
Step 3 - Install panels
Measure from the bottom of the track up to the bottom of the home with a tape measure and
subtract an inch. Cut the panel to this height. ALWAYS CUT THE PANEL FROM THE
BOTTOM otherwise the brick pattern won’t line up properly. Starting at the corner, insert the
panel into the bottom track and snug it up to the bottom of the home. Unless its winter time, the
panel should not rest at the bottom of the track.
Note: The bottom track grips the panel tight making it cumbersome to get the panel to slide in.
To ease the task, remember that the backside of the track is a little bit higher than the front side.
Use a putty knife to help work the panel into the track. Once you get a corner started, the rest
should go fairly easy.
Once properly seated in the track, screw the panel to the upper 2x2 support with 3 or 4, 3” screws
and washers. Continue these installation steps for the remainder of the panels. By always cutting
the panels on the bottom, the brick pattern will stay lined up. Just be sure the panels are installed
all the same direction so the ends correctly overlap.
At the corners either screw the panels to a 2x4 stud, or screw on an outside corner piece of metal,
vinyl or wood. Even though the thermal skirting already has a smooth protective coat, you still
need to apply a coat of latex paint for added protection. You will have to repaint every year or
two.
Step 4 – Install Doors
Doors can be made by cutting the center out of an
existing panel, adding a handle and a couple snap
closures. A wood backing around the edge will insure
the door and hardware stay in place. Don’t forget
vents either! Or keep reading for building an even
better door.
24-15
Note: If during the winter you discover your
skirting buckling from frost heave, you may find
yourself replacing broken or bowed pieces. If the
skirting panel is still salvageable, remove it and
trim the bottom, then re-install.
Skirting Access Door
Many people do a great job of installing and upkeeping their skirting, but fail to plan for a simple
access to get underneath their home. Take it from me, makeshift doors are frustrating. If those
access doors don’t open because they are jammed, frozen, hinged, non-existent or whatever, they
are costing you the homeowner money,
especially if you’re paying a service person to
do a repair and he’s adding time because he
can’t get underneath your home. Plus if the
only water shut-off to your home is underneath
and you have a broken pipe, fast access is
essential in preventing hundreds if not
thousands of dollars in water damage.
The good news is that a tough reliable door is
easy to build and simple to install. The door
shown in these plans will work with any type of
skirting. By building a screen, this door would
also double as a vent.
Location
If you are only installing one skirting door, it should be positioned closest to your main water
shut-off. Be sure the door isn’t located directly in front of a pipe, anchor strap or any other
obstruction that would hinder getting through the door. If you intend for these doors to also act as
skirting vents, then locating one door in each corner would work really well for airflow.
Construction
When building this access door, use all treated boards and plywood. Treated wood, available at
most lumberyards, is weather resistant and will add years of life to your door. Any nails and
screws used should also be suitable for use in treated lumber.
Start by measuring the opening for your door. Width is not as important as height. Height should
be from the ground to the bottom of the home. Width should be at least 2 feet. Build your door
to these measurements.
24-16
First construct the frame. The bottom of
the frame consists of a 2x8, while 2x6’s
are used on the other three sides. Then
1x4’s are nailed along the top and sides.
Leave a ¾” reveal when nailing the 1x4’s
to the frame.
Measure the opening and cut a door panel
to fit. 3/4" or 5/8” treated plywood should
be used for the door panel. The panel
should fit without sticking. Add a handle
to the panel for ease of use. Instead of a
solid door, a screen could be built.
Simply construct a frame the size of the
opening and cover it with screen available
at any home improvement store.
The door is held closed
by a turning latch on
each side. These are
made from treated 1x4
scraps cut to about 2”
wide x 5” long. Drill a
hole through the latch
that’s bigger than the
screw. Screw the latch
to the 1x4, positioning
it so when turned
vertical, it won’t
interfere with removal
of the door. Don’t
overtighten the screw
or it won’t turn freely.
Installation
If you haven’t already, cut the opening in the skirting. Set the door in the opening. The 1x4’s
should cover any rough skirting cuts to make the opening. Secure the door to the ground by
driving long nails or spikes through the bottom board. Predrill your holes first. To secure the
top, drive 3-4” screws through the top board into the rim joist of the home. Finally, fasten the
skirting to the 1x4’s.
No Hinges Please
Hinges have no place on a skirting door. The door sets low to the ground, so ice snow and even
landscaping will soon cause grief to opening a hinged door. Hinges on top are also annoying.
Just leave the hinges off and remove the door by turning two latches and lifting out with the
handle.
24-17
More on Skirting Ventilation
Although insulation is important, so is ventilation. If you have a gas water heater which draws air
from underneath your home, you need a year-a-round vent in the skirting close to that intake.
At a minimum, skirting must be vented in all four corners. A good rule of thumb is at least one
square foot of open vent area per 150 square foot of floor area. Keep in mind that vents with
insect screens, louvers etc reduce the effective open area of the vent by 30-50%. Since you’ll
want insect screens and louvers on your skirting vents, be sure to calculate the added 30-50%
when determining the number of vents you
will need to install in your skirting. At least
once a year, these screens should also be
cleaned as they do become plugged with dirt.
Another option is to put in multiple access
doors that double as vents (pictured right). On
my doublewide home, I have six access doors.
During the warmer months, I put screens in
those doors. During the winter months, I seal
up the doors with a plywood panel.
If you live in an area where moisture
underneath your home is always a problem no
matter how many vents you have, then you may need to add a fan or two to help pull the moisture
out from underneath the home. If possible, run the fan on low-humidity days with all the vents
open. Do not run the fan during the colder months.
Skirting Insulation
Unless you live in an area where you don’t have much winter, all skirting should be insulated.
Insulated skirting will help tremendously in making your floors warmer, keeping your pipes from
freezing and lowering your home’s heat bill. When using insulation, be sure you also have vents
as explained above.
For the most part, you have two ways of insulation your skirting – insulation board or fiberglass
insulation. Fiberglass insulation gives you the most R-value while insulation board is the easiest
to install.
Insulating Board
Also referred to as bead board, foam board or Styrofoam, insulating board is quick and easy to
use when following these guidelines. When installing, it’s always best to keep the insulation off
the ground. If you are installing a treated bottom support board, simply rest the insulating board
on top of the support board.
24-18
When staking in the bottom support board (see
installing metal skirting), don’t pound the stakes
flush with the board. Let the stakes stick up 3-4
inches as shown in the photo left.
With the stakes sticking up, the insulating board
will rest on the support board without falling off.
This also keeps the insulating board off the ground
so it can’t soak-up water if the ground around the
home would get wet
.
The top of the panel secures itself. Cut for a snug fit.
On many homes the underbelly along the edge has a
bulge which does a great job of holding the top in
position. If no bulge, then oftentimes the outriggers will
hold the top of the insulating board in place. If that
doesn’t work then you’ll have to screw a 2x2 up
underneath to fasten the insulating board too. Once the
skirting is installed, the insulating board is locked in
place.
Fiberglass Insulation
Fiberglass insulation is the opposite of insulation board because it needs to be fastened at the top.
However if you are serious about insulating, fiberglass insulation is the only way to go. In fact it
worked so well on the homes I did, that the temperature underneath stayed above freezing all
winter in South Dakota. However, if fiberglass insulation gets wet, it’s worthless so purchase
only insulation that’s surrounded by a protective plastic lining.
24-19
Screw a 2x2 to the underside edge of the home.
The screws will drive into the rim joist.
Again, the insulation should not touch the ground.
Strips of foam board are laid next to the bottom
support board. Nails are tacked through the foam
board to keep it put.
Unroll and attach the insulation to the top 2x2.
Use nails with big heads. Fold over the plastic
liner a couple times and then drive a nail through
the plastic into the 2x2. An air shingle-nailer as
pictured makes quick work of nailing up the
insulation. The insulation should be resting on the
foam board strips. In this illustration, the
insulation was 2’ wide by 8” thick and came in
rolls 33’ long.
With the insulation in place, install the skirting.
24-20
ANCHORS
Understand and Install
Chapter 25
_______________________________________________________
Whenever the NEWS reports bad weather and high winds, the first pictures seen are
manufactured homes tipped over or knocked off their blocks. Had they been properly anchored
perhaps manufactured homes wouldn’t always be the center of attention after every storm.
Function of Anchors
Anchors secure a home in place, preventing it from shifting off its blocks or footings in the event
of inclement weather or other outside forces such as an earthquake. Anchors prevent the home
from shifting in two ways. First, it keeps the home grounded by anchoring the frame to the earth.
Second, it keeps the home from tipping by extending wind straps over the roof.
Anchor Parts
Along with each anchor you will need a strap with a frame clamp and a slotted bolt and nut. If
your home does not have built-in wind straps, then you will need a roof bracket to prevent the
strap or cable from rubbing against the edge of the roof. The anchors themselves are sold from
30-50 inches in length along with a disk of about 4-6 inches in diameter. Although several
anchoring systems are on the market, this chapter focuses on the helix type of anchors. Below are
illustrations of common anchor parts:
25-1
Anchor Placement
To determine the exact placement of your anchors, first look for any wind straps. If your home
has built-in wind straps, you will find a thin metal strap dangling from the bottom of the outside
wall. You will find one near each corner and possibly in between. On a home without a wind
strap, a cable or strap that runs over the roof should be used. Of course, this will be very
noticeable. Built-in wind straps are not noticeable because they run underneath the siding and
roofing.
If you have the wind straps, locate an anchor in that area. Otherwise the total number of anchors
required for your home depends upon several factors. For some homeowners the number of
anchors may be dictated by their insurance company. The manufacturer may also have minimum
anchor requirements, or you could follow the HUD requirements for anchors – which is every 8’
all the way around the home. Whatever guidelines you are required to follow, every home should
have a minimum of 8 anchors. The illustration below is what HUD recommends.
Anchor Installation
Anchors are screwed flush into the ground as close to the frame as possible. A strap is hooked
around the frame of the home, slipped through a bolt in the anchor and tightened. To get the strap
around the frame, push-up the vapor barrier and slide the strap over the frame, hooking it along
the bottom front edge. To tighten, slide the metal strap through the slot in the bolt and turn.
Once snug, seat the bolt then secure it by tightening the nut. Do not overtighten the strap.
25-2
Anchors are strongest when they are angled towards the home (lower left). However if you’re
anchoring a home already set in place, it’s practically impossible to install anchors angled
towards the home. In that case, a stabilizer plate (lower right) must be installed behind the anchor
to ensure proper strength. Also on the market are anchors with built-in stabilizer plates.
The easiest way to dig an anchor into the ground is to use an electric anchor auger (lower left).
The auger simply turns the anchor into the ground without digging a hole. Unless you can
borrow an anchor auger from a dealer or service company, chances are slim you will find one to
rent. If unavailable, dig a hole using a post hole digger, drop in the anchor and tamp the hole
back full of dirt. Anchors can also be twisted in by hand using a big bar. With the right adapter,
anchors can be driven in with an electric or gas post-hole digger. The lower right picture shows
an anchor installed without the wind straps. The wind straps would hook through a bolt in the
back (right) hole. The straps seen in the picture are anchored to the frame.
WARNING: Never begin digging or turning in the anchors without first locating any
underground utilities. Call your utility company or a One-Call service. Most will come mark the
location of the utility lines for free. Always be safe!
25-3
25-4
ADDING ONTO YOUR MANUFACTURED HOME
Do’s and Don’ts
Chapter 26
Can you add on to your mobile home?
Maybe, maybe not.
That mobile home that looked so large when
you bought it has gotten a little cramped.
You've been thinking that you need more
space, and an addition seems like the perfect
solution- much cheaper than buying a new
unit, and no Moving Day to contend with.
Since adding onto a mobile home is very
different from adding to a house, there are a
lot
of special considerations- and some of them
may mean that you won't be able to add on in
your particular case. Here's a rundown of all the things you should factor into your decision.
DO YOU REALLY WANT TO?
First, can we talk you out of it? Additions are a tricky area, requiring lots of skill at the
planning, engineering, and building stages, as you're about to find out. They aren't the simple,
couple-of-spare-weekends project that TV shows can make them seem to be. You will
have code requirements to be met, and park requirements if you're not on private land. The resale
of your home may be negatively affected, too. Even if you know you can build the best addition
possible, a prospective buyer will probably not be knowledgeable enough to judge the quality of
what you've built. Most people who don't have an easy way to tell if something is good quality, or
a good deal, pass it up. If you sell your home to be moved, the resale situation gets worse. The
addition must be removed or demolished, and the exterior of the home will need to be repaired, to
close-up extra doorways. Wiring, and perhaps heating and plumbing, will also need to be returned
to their original configurations. All this means expense for you, whether you do the work needed,
or sell the unit "As-Is" at a lower price than a factory-spec unit would fetch. If your mobile home
is under warranty, you should check the warranty to see what it says about additions. Usually,
additions void the warranty, or are allowed only if "manufacturer
approved". Whatever the warranty says, don't add on during the warranty period. Either you'll
void the warranty, or you'll give the manufacturer an "out" on warranty claims. They may say it's
okay when you build it, but when you need $5000 worth of warranty work, they'll find a way to
blame your problem on your addition, trust us.
If you're still interested in an addition after these hard facts, here's some tips:
26-1
Decks, Steps and Carports
The most successful additions are non-weatherproof additions. Decks, steps, carports, porches
and sunrooms are examples. As a rule, non-weatherproof additions should not be
attached to the home as it’s generally not worth the expense of putting frostline footings
underneath them (more on that later). Keep decks and steps separate from the home by not
attaching them.
Additions
An addition would be a direct extension of your living space. Examples include an extra
bedroom, large porch and other attached living areas. Your home's foundation structure will
determine whether or not you can attach an addition. A manufactured home that is on simple
blocks cannot have another structure fastened to it. Here's why. The ground under the home
26-2
shifts with every frost, and the ground under the addition shifts too, but at a different rate. This
movement will make the addition move independently from the home, causing nightmarish
problems.
A home that is on frostline footings is a better candidate for for an attached addition assuming the
addition is also on frostline footings. In otherwords, if both your home and addition are on
frostline footings, you can attach them together as ground movement should be minimized. A
frostline footing is a footing or pier sunk into the ground deep enough that they go down below
the point where the ground shifts (i.e. below the frostline).
Codes and Planning
Planning an addition is tricky. You need to find out what city, county, and state codes apply. With
that information in hand, you can start figuring out what you want to do. The floor plan is the first
hurdle. You'll need to find a place where a doorway can be cut through to the addition. Don't plan
on using the existing back door for access to the addition; fire codes in many localities prohibit
this, unless the addition has its own door to the outside.
The details are the next consideration. How will you heat the addition? Does the home's furnace
have the needed capacity? Are the existing duct runs built so they can be added onto? If you're
adding plumbing, where is the best place to tap into the home's system? Consulting an
26-3
electrician, a HVAC technician, and a plumber at this point is highly recommended. Windows
used in a bedroom addition should be at least as large as the ones already in the existing
bedrooms. Bedroom windows in mobile homes are required to be certain sizes, to permit crawling
out of them in emergencies.
Once you've got a floor plan that meets code, and you have figured out how to extend utilities
to the addition, you have to figure out framing and roofing. The best framing system will be
one that is similar to the one in the home itself, or perhaps one a little sturdier. The roof
will have to be sloped away from the home. The steeper the slope, the better. The slope will
make the ceiling in the addition a little low in places unless the addition itself is lower than the
main floor of the home. The simplest roof
structure is the best for an addition.
The last thing to consider in creating an
addition is the "good neighbor" factor. A
good-looking, well-built addition is a credit to
any neighborhood. Choosing the same, or
very similar, siding, roofing, skirting, and
windows will insure that your addition blends
in well. If you can't match existing materials
in style or finish, at least match them in
quality, and paint them the same color as the
mobile home. And a little landscaping works
wonders. Nobody loves a "home-made"
looking home. @2003 Sandy McLendon.
Sealing a Shifting Addition
Unless both your home and addition are on frostline footings, they probably shift independently.
Whether you’re adding on a new addition or just want to fix your addition from leaking, here’s
some solutions that may help.
Sealing the roof gap
18” wide aluminum flashing is the most common size of material for sealing the roof gap. The
width of aluminum you need and how it’s installed depends upon the height of your addition
relative to the roof-line of your home. The roof of an addition will either be below, even or above
the roof-line of your home.
Scenario 1 – If the roof of your
addition is below the roofline of your
home, install the flashing by first
tucking the top edge up underneath
the roof edge on the home and fasten
the flashing to the roof of the addition
as described in the next illustration.
Let the flashing stick out several
inches past the roof of the addition to
help divert water.
26-4
Installing Flashing – Unless you are
dealing with two roofs the same
height, the flashing should tuck up
underneath the roof edging of the
higher roof. Normally an 18” wide
piece of aluminum flashing will do
the trick. Flashing generally comes in
rolls of 10’ and 50’ at your local
home improvement store. Using one
piece of flashing will give you the
most protection against leaks. Prebend the flashing to the proper
measurement and stick up under the
roof edge. Fasten to the lower roof as
illustrated. For a flat roof, apply
neoprene and screws to both sides.
Screws should be driven every couple inches. If you can’t find neoprene at your local hardware
store, it can be ordered from www.mobilehomerepair.com.
Scenario 2 – If the roof of your
addition is even with the roof of your
home, then lay 18” flashing over the
gap. Apply beads of neoprene to both
sides and screw all along the edges
every couple inches. If the roofs are
metal and not composite (shingled or
rolled roofing), covering the flashing
with a 24” wide piece of ‘Stick-it-NForget-it’ rubber membrane will
ensure a leak-free joint. ‘Stick-it-NForget-it’ can be found on
www.mobilehomerepair.com.
Scenario 3 – If the roof of your
addition is higher than the roof of
your home, you’ll actually have a
valley where the two bump together.
Install the flashing as shown in the
picture. Since water could sit in this
valley, the ‘Stick-it-N-Forget-it’
rubber membrane sold on
www.mobilehomerepair.com is
highly recommended to ensure no
leaks. Gutters along the house are
highly recommended to route the
water away from the home, and not
26-5
down the corner where the addition butts the home.
Sealing the wall gap
To seal the gap where the addition meets the home, try this:
1. Screw a 1x6 board (A) to the home.
2. Rip the 1x4 board (B) so its only 3.25" wide. The ripped edge should be a 10-15 degree bevel
(E).
3. Predrill screw holes (C) through the width of board B.
4. Apply weatherstripping (D) on the inside edge of board B.
5. Butt board B up against board A. The weatherstripping (D) should be against the addition, and
the beveled edge butted so you don't notice the bevel (E).
6. Drive 4" screws (C) through the predrilled holes in board B into board A. As you tighten the
screws, the bevel (E) will pull board B towards the addition, compressing the weatherstripping
(D).
7. Caulk the butt (E) and along all edges of board A.
This design allows your addition and home to shift independently, yet the gap between the home
and addition stay sealed because board B is attached to board A and not the addition.
26-6
SOLAR HEATING
Building a Solar Heating Panel
Chapter 27
_______________________________________________________
Long before the start of the cold season, Jack Sage (JES) from Montana and I listened to news reports of how
heating costs this coming winter would be sky high (which it later was!) Paying last winter's heat bill was tough
enough, so knowing we'd have even higher heat bills this winter was, to say the least, scary. We both agreed to
do something about it.
So throughout the summer Jack and I explored various options of creating 'cheap heat.' The most sensible
solution we found was to heat the air in our home using a solar heating panel. Yep, we decided to let the sun
help heat our home.
We spent countless hours reading and searching the internet for information on building a solar heating panel.
Solar power was big in the 70's and early 80's, so you'd think finding good information would be easy. Well, it
wasn't. We found a lot of information, but some of it contained errors, some information was incomplete, and
others required parts which were either hard to find, no longer available or expensive. So we put our heads
together, tried this, tried that, and finally came up with a workable solar heating panel that doesn't cost a lot to
build. To see our version of the solar heating panel, read on . . .
How It Works
When you think 'solar,' you may first think about those
expensive panels designed to create electricity. We are
talking about a completely different solar panel. Our solar
heating paneled is designed to heat air, not create electricity.
Other designs include heating liquid.
To heat, air is drawn into the bottom of the panel. The air
zig-zags through the panel and comes out of the top 10-50
degrees warmer on sunny days. Our average heated air
temperatures have been 100-140 degrees. Air moves
through the panel either by convection or by a fan located at
the top. Sounds like a simple concept, but do one thing
wrong and you'll get less than desirable results.
Rules of Thumb
As we share with you how we built our solar heating panel, we'll introduce you to various options
and ideas. Soon you'll begin to formulate how your solar panel may look or operate.
For a solar heating panel to operate effectively, you must keep in mind the following Rules of Thumb.
1) Don't let the size of the collector exceed 20 percent of the house's heated floor area, assuming the home
is reasonably well insulated and you aren't using a heat storage system.
2) Baffle layout should be such that no single "air run," the distance between an inlet and outlet, exceeds
32 feet. Larger collectors should be divided into zones with more than one inlet and outlet, although it
could still be powered by a single fan. Or outlets could have openings into various parts of the house or
ductwork.
27-1
3) Fan-powered airflow should equal an "actual" two cfm per square foot of collector at sea level, and 3
cfm per square foot at an altitude of 7000 feet, because of decreasing air density. For a collector that’s
4’x5’x2” deep, the formula would be cfm=(4’x5’x1.66’) x3. 1.66 is 2” divided by 12”. Most fan and
blower cfm ratings are given for a range of pressure drops, so choosing the right units won't be difficult.
SFEP recommends direct drive blowers for small collectors (less than 150 square feet) and belt drive
units (squirrel cage) for larger systems to allow for experimentation and fine-tuning with different
pulley sizes. The goal for both of these is to produce the minimum temperature rise through the
collectors -- usually at least 20§F.-- while still maintaining an outlet air flow that gives off enough
warmth. The cooler-running collector is more efficient because it transfers that much more heat to the
house (and less back out through the glazing).
4) The air gap is a function of the airflow (volume over time) and the air velocity (speed over time). The
optimal airflow is 800 feet per minute (fpm). Divide the calculated cfm by 800 fpm to get the area (in
square feet) of the air gap cross-section. The gap is then found simply by dividing the cross-section area
by the width of the collector airway in one direction of airflow. The area of the air gap is therefore 300
cfm/800 fpm = .375 square feet or 54 square inches. The air gap width is then found by: 54 sq. in./45
inch width = 1.2 inches. The average width was figured to be 13.5 feet but because the air flows through
the collector in two directions, up and then down, the actual collector width in one direction is half the
average width, or 6.25 feet (75 inches). At a design airflow of 550 cfm the calculation proceeds: 550
cfm/800 fpm = .6875 sq. ft. or 99 sq. in. Air gap width is: 99 sq. in./75 inch width = 1.32 inches. Again
a 1'/4 inch actual gap is close enough.
5) The collector inlets and outlets must be of a size equal in area to the airway (between baffles) they
serve. For example, the airways were generally 16 inches wide with a 1.5-inch air gap. That means an
area of 16 X 1.5 = 24 square inches. Thus, each vent opening was cut to measure 4 X 6 inches.
6) When ductwork is needed to get a more extensive distribution of solar heat, the design velocity for
ducting is 500 fpm. Thus, a 200 square foot collector designed for a 500 cfm flow rate would need duct
work with a cross-sectional area of 500 cfm/500 fpm or one square foot. A '12 X 12-inch duct could be
used, or one 6 X 24 inches. It even is possible to build a duct onto an exposed basement ceiling using
the floor joists and subfloor for three sides and thin plywood for the fourth side. Sealing air leaks with
caulking and duct tape is crucial, along with providing duct insulation.
7) Storage. A rule of thumb on storage sizing calls for 50 -- 60 pounds of rock per square foot of collector.
Working with Btus, the specific heat of rock is such that one cubic foot stores 20 Btus for every 1
Degree F. it rises in temperature. In the case of a 40 Degree F. rise, a cubic foot would store 20 X 40 or
800 Btus. Let's say also that the collector output is 150,000 Btus per day. In order to store that much
heat (at a 40§F. design temperature rise): 150,000 Btu/day/800 Btu/cubic feet of rock = about 187.5
cubic feet of rock needed, or about 18,750 pounds of the stuff. That's roughly seven cubic yards, one
cubic yard weighing 2700 pounds. The storage bin also should be proportioned for minimum surface
area to minimize storage heat loss. It should be stressed that incorporating storage into the collector
system is no simple task, and because of space limitations we've by no means included all the
information needed to do the work. Only the skilled craftsman who has some experience with forced-air
heating systems should make the attempt.
8) The ideal angle to tilt the panel for the low winter sun is 62 degrees. With that in mind,
it may be better to mount your solar heating panel on a wall than a roof with a low pitch (3/12 roof pitch
for example).
9) Aluminum and copper conduct heat much better than regular metal. Whichever you choose, use the
same type throughout your panel to prevent corrosion (the reaction between two different metals).
Some of the above guidelines have been developed by the Small Farm Energy Project and others working to optimize airheating collectors. 40/41 Rodale's New Shelter May/June 1980 and 72 Rodale's New Shelter May/June 1981
27-2
Two Types of Solar Heaters
Depending upon what works best in your case, you can build the solar heating panels in
two ways -- to work inside your home or outside your home. Heaters that work outside your
home can be fastened to your roof or the south side of your home. Heaters that work inside
your home will hang in a south-facing window. Generally, outside heaters will create hotter
temperatures and will be bigger than the inside heaters. Outside heaters will have double-pained
glass and insulated on all sides. Inside heaters may have single-pained glass and no insulation except
for some in the back. For the purposes of this article, we will show you how to build the
outside solar heating panel.
Start with the Glass
Glass is the most expensive piece to our solar heating panel. So we look for good discarded windows or sliding
glass doors to help cut costs. Double-insulated glass is a must for outside solar heaters. For the solar panel
shown in this article, we found an old double-pained window that measured approximately 4'x5'. We’ve made
other solar heaters out of discarded sliding glass doors.
Build the Frame
Using 1x4's or 2x4's, build a frame that will fit the glass
you found. Nail a piece of 1/2" plywood to the back of the
frame. Since this solar heating panel would become a
permanent fixture on the side of my house, I covered the
frame with a metal that matched the trim on the house.
Add Insulation and the Absorption Plate
27-3
Line the back of the panel with 1.5" insulation board. The insulation board comes in 4'x8' sheets and is easily
found at most home improvement stores. Cut to fit using a
utility knife. Simply set in place. No glue or fasteners needed.
Aluminum flashing is used as the heat absorption plate.
Aluminum flashing is inexpensive and readily available. If
you don't use aluminum, you want something that will conduct
heat well, like copper perhaps.
The best absorption plates are those with selective surfaces,
such as surfaces plated with nickel then covered by black
chrome. They conduct heat superbly with hardly any
longwave emissivity (reflection). But they are also very
expensive, so we aren't using them here
The aluminum flashing is available in many widths and lengths. For this project, I used flashing that was 30"
wide and 10' long. Cut to fit, overlapping in the middle is OK. No need to glue or fasten.
Add the Baffles
Add strips of insulation board to the sides of the panel. On this panel, I used 3/4" insulation board.
Add the interior frame boards and baffles. Everything is held in place using these boards. When the
glass is added, these boards must seal to the top of the glass. That will make them approximately 2" tall.
Double check all measurements. Screw the interior frame boards directly to the side of the panel. Keep
everything at the same height.
If you haven't determined the size of your pathways (area
between the baffle boards), you need to do that now. Read
the Rules of Thumb for help. In our panel, we determined
we needed pathways that equal 18 square inches. Our
pathways are approximately 9" wide by 2" high.
The baffle boards are screwed in place by first drilling
several holes down through the baffles. Apply
weatherstripping to the bottom of the baffle boards. Then a
4" screw is driven down through the baffles, through the 1.5"
of insulation board, and into the plywood at the bottom.
Cut Out the Air Openings
Next step is to cut in the air openings. Normally you would
have one opening in the lower left and the other in the upper
right (or vice versa). But in our case, we had to put the
openings on the same side so they wouldn't interfere with wall
some cabinets on the wall. The opening size should closely
match the pathway size. In our case, we used a 5" opening as
its area was about 20 square inches. Again, read these Rules of
Thumb for more information. I used a jigsaw to cut my
openings.
27-4
Hang the Panel
Whether you hang your panel on the wall or roof, you
must first do some preplanning. Figure out where the
wall studs or roof rafters are. Your panel will be
fastened to these studs or rafters. Plus, your panel needs
to be lined-up so the air intake and outlet doesn't hit a
stud or rafter. In our example, we mounted the panel
flat to a south wall. If you wish that the panel be pointed
slightly up towards the sun, take that into consideration
now.
Once we figured out
exactly where the
panel would be
located, we screwed
a board to the house to help hold-up and support the panel as we screwed it
in place.
We then screwed the panel to the side of the house using 3.5" screws with
washers. Of course the screws went into the stud of the wall.
Air Delivery & Electrical System
With the panel now secured to your wall or roof, next step is to
install the parts needed to deliver air to and from your solar
heating panel.
We used a computer fan and hooked it up to a 20-watt solar
panel. The solar panel cost about a $100 and we chose to use it
because it’ll vary the speed of the fan depending upon the
strength of the sun. If you choose to hook the fan up to another
electrical source (battery, inverter, etc), then add a thermostat to
the panel to prevent the fan from blowing cold air into the house
when the sun isn’t shining. Another option is to not even use a
fan. Let the air flow through the panel via convection. The air
will be much hotter, but the flow will be a lot less. The downside is that the panel will get much hotter, which
tends to shorten their life and possibly cause other problems due to the high heat.
Pictured above are most of the parts we used to hook-up our air delivery
system. Since we determined that our opening had to be 5", all the parts are
made to fit a 5" diameter hole. Only thing not pictured would be a trap door to
prevent back-drafts at night
Pictured above is how the pieces would assemble together inside the wall and
panel. The 4.5" computer fan would need to fit snuggly inside the wall plate
(above) by removing the back flange (left). A rotary tool works great for this
project. Doublecheck which flange you are cutting so the airflow blows out.
No fan is needed for the air inlet (same parts less the fan).
27-5
Cut your 5" hole through the wall using a 5.25" hole saw
bit in your drill. If you don't have such a bit available, use
a jig-saw or sawz-all to make the cut.
Measure the distance from the panel to the wall. Add the
ear'd connector (below) to the ductwork and slide through
hole.
Seal around the duct with silicone and bend the ears over
to secure in place.
From the inside, add wall plate for a finished look. Secure
plate to wall with screws.
Insert the fan into the wall plate and mount the whole
assembly into wall and fasten with screws. Next we added
an electrical box next to the fan for an on/off switch. Run
the wires from the fan to the electrical box.
Mount the 20-watt solar panel so it faces south and
receives full sun. Run the wire through the wall of the
house and into the electrical box. Operating your fan with
a solar panel makes your heating panel/collector more
efficient because the fan will slow or stop on cloudy days
keeping cold air from circulating into your home.
Finish wiring the switch and screw on the switch plate.
Flip the switch and the fan should run if its mostly sunny
outside. Another option would be to replace the switch
with a thermostat so it only comes on when the
temperature in the panel is 80 degrees or hotter.
27-6
We molded a trap door out of a scrap piece of aluminum.
The door is light and easily swings open when the fan is
activated. When the fan shuts off, the door closes
preventing a back draft that would reverse the airflow and
cool air back into the home.
Once the air delivery parts are installed, you should have a very
clean, professional look on the inside. Add a filter to the
bottom air inlet to stop any dust particles from entering the
panel. When you no longer require solar heat, the air inlet at
the bottom should be sealed with a plug made of foam or
insulation and the panel itself covered.
Black Paint and Air Mixers
With the air delivery system installed, next is to finish the
panel and screw on the glass.
First paint the insides black. Use a special high-heat flat black.
Black absorbs heat and does not reflect it back.
Once the paint dried, we made air mixers by bending scrap
pieces of aluminum as shown below. As the air flows through
the panel, the ridges in the aluminum cause some turbulence
for mixing. We stapled the aluminum air mixers to the sides of
the baffles and the interior frame. And yes, adding the mixers
and painting could have been done before the panel was
fastened to the wall or roof.
Glass
Apply weatherstripping to the top of the baffles and
interior frame pieces as seen in the photo above. Use
a weatherstripping that can resist UV rays. Screw
27-7
glass to the panel. To fasten the glass to the panel, sometimes you can screw through the frame. Otherwise you
may need to use clips. The glass should set tightly to the weatherstripping on the baffles and interior frame
pieces so no air can pass over the top of the baffles
Obviously, this solar heating panel is designed to stay fastened to the home. During the months
that heat isn't needed, cover the glass and plug the air inlet and outlet.
Other Designs
The two photos below show a solar heating panel built using a used commercial sliding glass door.
This panel we set on the ground by the skirting and used insulated ductwork to bring in air from the
home and send hot air back. The photo on the left shows the air inlet (bottom right), the air outlet
(upper left) and the airways with the aluminum air mixers attached. The photo to the right shows the
completed panel with the glass attached. Lying on the ground in front of the panel is a piece of shiny
aluminum acting as a reflector to help bounce more sun to the panel. Of course if you had a lot of
snow on the ground, you wouldn’t need a reflector. Also keep in mind that this panel would work
better if it was standing vertical – but sometimes you just have to work with the space you have.
A search of the internet will reveal other solar heating
panel designs. Shown at the right is another popular
design. The biggest difference between their design and
ours is the location of the black absorption plate. Their
design uses a black corrugated aluminum absorption
plate (difficult to find) and places it over the top of the
baffles. The air moves through the baffles underneath
the absorption plate. In our tests we found that when the
absorption plate is placed over the baffles, it requires
much more heat for the panel to work as all the heat has
to be drawn from the absorption plate. In our design we
retrieve heat both from the absorption plate and the
heated air in front of the absorption plate.
One advantage to their design is that the air would not
contact the glass so the glass would rarely require
cleaning on the inside.
27-8
FURNACE TROUBLESHOOTING
Determining What’s Wrong
Chapter 28
_______________________________________________________
Next time your forced-air gas furnace acts up, perhaps one of these basic troubleshooting tips will
save you a service call. Plus we'll show you some maintenance tips that will help keep your
furnace in top shape.
Please remember that this information is just a guide and in no way do we claim fault or liability
if it doesn't work for you. Use this information to help maintain and troubleshoot your furnace,
but we recommend calling a qualified technician to perform any repair. If you attempt any
repairs to your furnace, you are attempting them at your own risk. AGAIN, If any doubts please
call a qualified technician to perform the repairs. Having said all that -- let's move on!
Chapter Topics
* Understand how your furnace works
* Let the furnace tell you what's wrong
* Furnace runs constant short heating cycles
* Burner won't light -- standing pilot furnace
* Burner won't light -- electronic ignition
furnace
* Centrifugal switch or combustion air blower
problem
* Maintaining the blower assembly
* Blower Control / Temperature switches
* Blower will not come on
* Blower will not shut off
* Inspecting the heat exchanger for deadly
holes
* Cleaning the A-coil
* Replacing a furnace filter
Understand How Your Furnace Works
When problems arise, knowing how your gas furnace functions will help you determine what the
problem may be. To understand how a typical manufactured home furnace operates, check out the
flowchart on the next page.
28-1
28-2
Let the Furnace Tell You What’s Wrong
Many of the newer furnaces will practically tell you
what's wrong by locating a diagnostic code which is
simply a flashing light. Often times the flashing code
can be located by removing the top panel of the furnace.
Item A in the photograph to the right shows the location
of the flashing code on this furnace. It uses a green
light. If the light is solid it's not detecting a problem. If
the green light flashes, then there's a problem. Count
how many times the light is flashing in sequence and
look up the diagnostic code in the furnace's manual. Or
you may find the diagnostic code posted on the furnace
door or on the furnace itself. For instance, on some
furnaces if your code flashes 3 times that means you
have a bad centrifugal switch. The diagnostic code is
different with all furnaces, so be sure your looking at the
chart for yours. If you have an older furnace with a pilot
light, most likely it won't have any type of flashing
diagnostic code system.
Item B in the above picture has both a green and red
light but this is not a diagnostic code for the furnace. This box is labeled blend-air and it's
function is to bring in fresh air. If there's a problem with the blend-air unit, a red light will flash
and you may hear a beep. Generally if you do hear this unit beeping or see the red light flashing,
it's not a life-threatening warning and you will be OK to run your furnace until you can get it
repaired. The unit should have a switch to shut off the beeper so it doesn't drive you nuts.
If your furnace is still under warranty, you'll want to get the blend-air (also called fresh air fan)
unit fixed as soon as possible or your warranty could be voided.
Furnace Runs Constant Short Heating Cycles
If your furnace runs fine but constantly runs many short heating cycles instead of an occasionally
long (normal) one, then you need to make an adjustment inside the thermostat on the wall.
To make the adjustment, lift off the cover from the
thermostat and locate the anticipator. If your
furnace is running short cycles, the anticipator is
probably set on .2 or lower. Check your furnace
manual and move the lever or dial to the setting
they recommend which is normally in the .3 to .4
range. Your short cycles should now cease. Some
thermostats (like the one pictured) have an
anticipator for both a/c and heat.
28-3
For optimum performance and safety of your furnace, you should never guess at the anticipator
settings. Always refer to the manual or contact the manufacturer. You may also be able to get
the anticipator settings by looking at the gas valve for the amp setting.
Also note that if your burner fires for only a few seconds then extinguishes, this is not a problem
with the anticipator setting on the thermostat. If you have an electronic ignition furnace, it may
be a problem with the flame sensor, gas valve or just a dirty burner. Have a competent furnace
technician troubleshoot this problem for you.
Burner Won’t Light – Standing Pilot Furnace
First determine if you have a standing pilot furnace or a furnace with an electronic ignition. If
your furnace has a pilot light that's lit all the time, then you have a standing pilot furnace. Many
older furnaces are standing pilot. On a side note, leaving your pilot lit all year long is a good idea
as it helps keep out condensation preventing rust.
If the burner in your standing-pilot furnace won't light, try these troubleshooting steps.
1) Thermostat. Make sure your thermostat is set to 'heat' and turned up.
2) Pilot Light. Be sure your pilot light is lit. To light, follow these steps:
a. Be sure gas to furnace is on.
b. Turn knob on gas valve to pilot.
c. Press knob down and hold (or slide and hold on some furnaces). Insert a long match
inside furnace and light pilot.
d. Once the pilot is lit, continue holding down the button for at least 30 seconds to heat
thermocouple.
e. Slowly let the button up. If the pilot remains lit, turn the knob to 'on.' If pilot goes
out, wait 5 minutes and repeat steps c thru e.
If the pilot does not light right away, you may have air in the line. Trying several times to
light the pilot should eventually purge the air and allow the pilot to light. NOTE: Always wait 5
minutes before trying to relight a pilot to allow all residual gas to dissipate. If the pilot still
doesn't light, read on.
3) Thermocouple. If the thermostat is
set right and your pilot still won't
light, you could have a problem with
the thermocouple or a dirty pilot light
(or both). First be sure that the
thermocouple hasn't slipped or shifted
and not getting the full flame from
the pilot light. The flame of the pilot
light should engulf least 1/3 of the tip
of the thermocouple. If the
thermocouple is positioned right and
receiving full flame, then replace the
thermocouple and check that the pilot
light is clear of any debris.
When you get the pilot lit, here's one way to test that you have a strong thermocouple:
28-4
a. With the gas valve on and a watch in hand, blow out the pilot light.
b. Listen to the gas valve and count the seconds until you hear a click telling you that the
gas valve has closed.
c. If you hear a click in 25 seconds or less, replace the thermocouple and clean the pilot light.
d. If you hear a click in 25-60 seconds, your thermocouple is probably fine.
Wait 5 minutes before relighting pilot.
You're probably wondering why it takes longer for a gas valve to close with a good thermocouple
and a clean pilot light? That's because if everything is working properly, the thermocouple will
be hot which takes longer to cool down and signal the gas valve to close.
A thermocouple only costs a few dollars and is available anywhere including stores like Walmart.
Thermocouples come in various lengths and length is not important in how it functions as long as
it reaches from the gas valve to the pilot light.
Since thermocouples are so inexpensive, replacing it and cleaning the pilot light should
always go hand in hand. Never do one without doing the other.
4) Transformer. A transformer converts the 110 volt
power coming into your furnace to 24 volts for use
by certain parts including the thermostat. When you
locate the transformer, the connections that say 'line'
are for the incoming 110 volts. The connection that
says 'load' are the outgoing 24 volts. In fact, looking
for the words 'line' and 'load' is one way to help
locate the transformer inside your furnace. Of
course not all transformers say 'line' and 'load' so
learn what yours looks like before testing.
Using a voltage meter, first check that the
transformer is receiving 110-120 volts on the 'line'
side. Then test the 'load' side for 24-28 volts.
Replace the transformer if the 'load' side is not registering 24-28 volts.
5) Gas Valve. If your burners still don't light, then you probably need a new gas valve. Gas
valves are expensive so be sure you've exhausted all the above sources before replacing.
Burner Won’t Light – Electronic Ignition Furnace
If your furnace doesn't have a standing pilot light, then it has an electronic ignition. Furnaces
have two types of electronic ignition -- glow plugs or an electronic spark.
28-5
If the burners won't light, try these
troubleshooting steps:
A) Check for a flashing diagnostic code as
mentioned on page 28-3.
B) Does the ignitor come on and glow for
more than 5 seconds? If not, replace the
ignitor.
C) If the ignitor comes on and the burners
still don't light or light for only a few
seconds, then replace the flame sensor
and check that the orifice to the burner is
clear.
If the burners still don't light, then you may
have a problem with the centrifugal switch,
ignition control or gas valve. Neither fix is
cheap and at this point you may want a
qualified technician to examine your furnace.
Centrifugal Switch or Combustion Air Blower Problem
The combustion air blower, also known as an induced
draft motor, has three functions. First, it purges or
clears any residual gases and/or by products out of the
combustion chamber. Second, it continues to blow
through to the flue to assist in the natural draft of the
burned gas by-products. Third, it provides combustion
air to the burners.
The centrifugal switch senses whether or not the
combustion/induced draft blower is running. If
running, the switch closes allowing current though the
switch to start ignition. On some newer furnaces, a
pressure switch may be used instead of a centrifugal
switch.
Probably the only way you'll know whether or not you
have a problem with the centrifugal switch is because
the ignition control (circuit panel) is flashing you a
code telling you that the switch is either stuck open or
stuck close. The code is telling you that either the
switch is defective or there's a problem with the
combustion air blower. In many manufactured home
furnaces, the centrifugal switch is located inside the
combustion air blower. In that case, repairing the switch would also mean replacing
the blower.
Another tell-tale sign of having a bad centrifugal or pressure switch is that you can hear the
28-6
combustion/induced draft motor run and run without the burners ever lighting. Of course when
the burners don't light after 2 or 3 tries, the furnace will shut down.
Maintaining the Blower Assembly
For the most part the blower assembly contains four
parts -- the blower wheel & its housing, the blower
motor, the fan capacitor and the temperature
control switches.
Capacitor. The fan capacitor is often connected to the
side of blower housing (snail shell). Be sure to NOT
touch the capacitor terminals. Even with the POWER
OFF, the capacitor can/will store high voltage that can
be injurious and/or fatal. The fan capacitor helps give
the motor an extra burst of power to get it started.
Whenever a blower motor is replaced, so should the fan
capacitor.
Belts. Some blowers are belt-driven meaning there's a
belt between the motor and blower, although this type of
set-up is rare in a manufactured home furnace. If you
have a belt-drive system, then maintenance should
include inspecting the belt for wear and proper tension.
Oiling. If your blower motor needs oiling, that should be done twice a year.
Manually-lubricated fan motors will have TWO oil ports. They will be on the
non-shaft end of the motor. They will be straight across from each other at
the edge of the end of motor. They will (if not previously removed) have a
plastic plug in the holes (usually yellow or blue). A lot of times, if still legible,
the fan label will say if it's self-lubricated (meaning sealed with no oil ports).
To oil, place 1-4 drops of 3in1 SAE 20 motor oil (found in the blue and white can) into each oil
port. If you have your manual/instructions for your furnace, read it and follow your
unit’s specifications on oiling and any other maintenance. Keep in mind that oiling too much is
as bad as oiling too little.
Cleaning. The best way to clean the blower wheel (squirrel cage), blower housing and blower
motor is to remove it by following these instructions:
Step 1: Turn OFF power to furnace at service panel breaker box. Flip breakers inside
furnace OFF (if applicable). Turn furnace/fan switches inside furnace to OFF and turn thermostat
to OFF.
Step 2: Remove blower assembly. First disconnect fan motor wiring harness connector.
Draw beforehand which way the wiring harness was hooked up. Remove any screws directly
holding the fan housing lips on each side of housing and slide
it out. DO NOT TOUCH the terminals on the capacitor. The capacitor is commonly found
attached to the side of the blower housing. Be careful not to crimp, kink or damage any
28-7
refrigerant lines which may be along the side of
furnace and slightly in the way (mainly for blowers
located at the bottom of the furnace). Protect
refrigerant lines with a piece of cardboard.
Step 3: Discharge and remove the capacitor if attached
to the housing. The capacitor is often fastened to the
side of the blowing housing. If you do not see it, you
may possibly have a shaded pole motor which does
not require a capacitor so skip to Step 4. Or the
capacitor may possibly be located elsewhere in the
furnace. If so, skip to step 4.
If your capacitor is located on the side of the blower
housing, mark where the two wires connect to the
capacitor. Using a long needlenose pliers with
electrical-insulated grips, remove the wires from
capacitor. When removing, be careful and be sure to
NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS. If you need to
discharge the capacitor, use only a resistor-type
jumper to safely discharge it. Only discharge if
experienced in using the resistor-type jumper. Otherwise,
just don't touch the terminals. Then remove the capacitor carefully.
Step 4: Remove the blower wheel and motor from
housing. Reach into squirrel cage and mark
where the squirrel cage hub sets on the fan shaft.
Mark it carefully as it must be returned to exact
spot. Loosen the set screw in hub of
squirrel cage (blower wheel).
Turn housing over, remove the bracket bolts to
motor. Turn back over, take a piece of 2x4 wood,
place against shaft and gently bump the
motor shaft/motor out of blower wheel.
28-8
Then on the bottom of blower housing, there should be
a section of housing that deflects the air and held in
place with 2-4 screws. It will have to be moved or
lifted back to remove the blower wheel. Do not bend it
out of shape and beware how this comes apart
throughout. Pictures from beginning to end are great
for reference.
Step 5: Clean blower wheel. Go to a car
wash that has spray wands. Spray blower
wheel and blower housing (snail shell) with
1 full cycle of soap and 1 full cycle of rinse.
You don't want too much water pressure
from the wand as it may damage the fins.
On the blower wheel fins, you'll find metal
clips. These are balancers and care should
be taken not to damage or remove them.
Caution -- the fins are sharp so be careful.
Allow to dry completely.
Step 6: Clean fan motor. Use a soft bristled brush to brush
off fan motor and vacuum the outer fan motor ends. Oil if
necessary.
28-9
Step 7: Reinstall blower wheel and motor
into housing. Reinstall by reversing the
removal steps. Make sure all is tight, but
don't overtighten. Then after the
wheel/motor/housing is back together,
spin wheel in correct direction and make
sure it doesn't wobble or knock/rub against
anything.
Also make sure the airflow is coming out
through the bottom opening of blower
housing without restriction. Don't forget to
install and reconnect the capacitor.
Step 8: Reinstall blower assembly in furnace. First brush and vacuum gently inside the furnace
before reinstalling the blower assembly. Then reinstall the blower assembly by reversing the
procedure in step 2.
Step 9: Finish up. Hook up wires, clean or change filter, vacuum and brush off a-coil if
applicable using a soft-bristled brush. Old-style toilet brushes are great for brushing off a-coils.
Turn on breakers and thermostat. Run the furnace through a few cycles before leaving it
unattended.
Blower Control / Temperature Switches
On some older furnaces, temperature switches determine when a blower runs and when it doesn't.
Newer electronic furnaces also have these switches for safety, but timing of the blower motor is
controlled by the integrated control (circuit board). Names for these switches, which vary from
furnace to furnace, are called fan control, limit switch, upper limit switch or lower limit switch.
A furnace may have more than one of these switches.
On the older furnaces, when the heat
exchanger gets hot from the burners, either the
fan control, limit switch or upper limit switch
will tell the blower to turn on at a 'pre-set'
temperature. When the burners are no longer
lit because the call for heat by the thermostat
has been met, then either the fan control, limit
switch or lower limit switch will tell the
blower to stop once the temperature inside the
heat exchanger has cooled to a 'pre-set'
temperature. Also remember that the burner
ignites (comes ON) before the blower starts
and extinguishes (goes OFF) before the
blower shuts off.
If your blower isn't functioning properly, a possible cause is one of the above temperature
switches. Do keep in mind that transformers, thermostats, fan relays, circuit boards and capacitors
also affect how a blower functions and you could have a possible problem with one or several of
these components. Calling a competent technician is always the most recommended way to
28-10
troubleshoot your furnace problem.
Blower Will Not Come On
If your blower does not turn on, first look through the viewing hole above the gas valve and
see if the burners have lit. If you don't see them burning, then jump to the burner won't light
section beginning on page 28-4. If the burners DO light, they will then go out if the blower does
not come on.
In determining why your blower doesn't come on, first check to see that the problem isn't in the
blower motor itself. This is easily tested by moving the fan switch on your thermostat from 'auto'
to 'manual' or 'on'. This should start the blower right away. If the blower doesn't start, then the
problem could be a fuse inside the furnace, a loose connection or a bad blower motor.
If the blower does run when you move the fan switch to 'manual' or 'on', then the problem most
likely is a faulty temperature switch.
Blower Will Not Shut Off
If the blower does not shut off, shuts off too soon, or not soon enough because it blows cold air at
the end of the heating cycle, then the problem is most likely a bad temperature control switch. If
your furnace has a fan control, it may be adjustable. But for the most part the temperature control
switches are non-adjustable and are to be replaced if found faulty.
If your blower does not shut off and it's not blowing cold air, then that means the burner is still lit.
You do not want the blower to stop if the burners are still lit.
To stop the furnace, first try turning down the thermostat. If that doesn't work, then turn the
furnace OFF at the thermostat. First the burner will shut off followed by the blower. If your
furnace shuts off when you turn the thermostat to off, a possible cause is a malfunctioning
thermostat and replacing it should fix your problem.
If turning the thermostat off doesn't shut down the furnace, then locate
the breaker in the fuse box or the main on/off switch on the furnace and switch to off. Then
turn the gas off. You should find a gas shut-off right in front of the furnace. The problem of not
shutting off could be anything from a short in the thermostat wires to a bad gas valve so its best to
let a qualified technician troubleshoot and repair.
Another problem is that your blower shuts off, then comes on again, runs for a minute or so, then
shuts off. This happens because when the blower shut off the first time, it didn’t dispel all the
heat from the heat exchanger. So the remaining heat caused the fan switch to kick back on,
activating the blower to dispel more heat. To fix this problem so the blower doesn’t need to come
back on, check to be sure you are using the correct fan switch, or replace your existing fan switch.
28-11
Inspecting the Heat Exchanger for Deadly Holes
One of the main causes of carbon monoxide in your home is a bad heat exchanger in your
furnace. With holes in your heat exchanger, instead of the carbon monoxide going up the
chimney, it's coming in your home.
Carbon monoxide is an odorless gas. If exposed to it over time, it can get into your body causing
sickness and even death. Once you've been diagnosed
with carbon monoxide poisoning, it can literally take
months to rid it from your body and you'll feel sick the
whole time. The best way to protect yourself from
carbon monoxide is to install a carbon monoxide alarm.
There's two ways of inspecting your heat exchanger for
holes or cracks. One way is to remove the burner and do
a visual inspection with a troublelight and mirror
The second way to check for a possible bad heat
exchanger is to simply watch the flame from your
burner. First turn up the thermostat so the furnace
engages. Looking through the glass viewing hole on
your furnace, watch the burners light. Continue to
watch the burners until the blower kicks on. If the flame
of the burners start dancing or laying down when the
blower kicks on, that's a sign that you may have a bad
heat exchanger as the blower is pushing air into it. Air from the blower should only flow over the
28-12
heat exchanger -- picking up the heat and
cycling it into the home (hence the term heat exchanger).
If you believe you have a problem with your heat exchanger, your furnace should be shut down
(red tagged) and a service technician called immediately. Replacing a heat exchanger is not a
minor repair. If your furnace is quite old, replacing the furnace may be a more viable option.
Also note that doing any of these procedures without being certified and licensed with experience
"can/probably will" void your unit warranty AND your home insurance policy should a
fire/explosion or similar mishap occur and be proven to be the fault of said repair/procedure or be
linked to furnace in any way.
Cleaning the A-coil
To ensure your furnace runs its best, your A-coil needs to be
clean. If your home has a split-unit air conditioner, you will
find an A-coil inside your furnace either above or below
your blower. Even though you may not be running your air
conditioner, air from the blower still needs to pass through
the A-coil to heat your home. If your A-coil is dirty, your
blower will have to work harder and you will be getting less
air into your ductwork. For instructions on cleaning your acoil, read chapter 29 on air conditioning maintenance.
Replacing a Furnace Filter
Furnace filters should be changed every 30
days. Always use the type of filters
recommended by the manufacturer. On most
manufactured home furnaces, the filter(s) are
located in the furnace door. The doors
generally lift off and there's often a top and
bottom door. On some furnaces both doors
require a filter and others only one door gets a
filter.
Foam filters have no front or back so can be
installed either way. They are generally held
in place with wire clips. When dirty foam
filters can be hand-washed in warm soapy
water. Be sure to rinse and let dry before reinstalling. If you have a foam filter and have
trouble locating a replacement, you can find
one at www.mobilehomerepair.com.
28-13
Box-type filters generally have an arrow somewhere along the edge that indicates the direction of
air flow through the filter. Be sure this arrow is pointing towards the furnace. When box-type
filters are dirty, throw them away and install new.
Electric Furnaces
Electric furnaces are much simpler than gas furnaces. With an electric furnace, you don’t have a
flue (chimney), a combustion motor, a gas valve nor a heat exchanger. Instead you have heating
elements.
An electric furnace
operates much simpler
than a gas furnace. When
a thermostat calls for
heat, one by one the
sequencers close and
power up the elements.
Each sequencer controls
one element. A furnace
can have 2, 3, 4 or more
sequencers/elements.
Once all the elements are
powered, the blower will
come on in about 30
seconds. The blower and
elements run until the
thermostat is satisfied and
opens. Then the elements
shut down one by one and
in about 30 seconds the
blower shuts off.
Like a gas furnace, electric furnaces still have limit switches to protect against overheating in case
the blower doesn’t come on. It also has several fuses. If a fuse blows, first you need to figure out
why. Often times the problem may be a defective element. A continuity check on an element can
often determine if it’s defective. A continuity check means checking for a complete electrical
circuit through the element. This is done with the power shut off to the furnace, wires
disconnected from the element, and the meter set to resistance.
The blowers on electric furnaces can be cleaned in the same manner as described beginning on
page 28-7. Like gas furnaces, electric furnaces also have a transformer and many have an
integrated control (circuit board or control panel).
28-14
A/C MAINTENANCE
Cleaning Your Coils
Chapter 29
_______________________________________________________
For the most part the average homeowner IS NOT able to repair his/her own air conditioner unit.
Many of the repairs will involve removing the freon and that requires special equipment and a
license. But a homeowner can keep the condenser and evaporator coils clean which will help the
unit run longer and more efficiently. For the purposes if this article, we are referring to a split
system meaning that the condenser is located outside and the evaporator (A-coil) is located in the
furnace.
Cleaning the Condensor
Step 1- Shut off power to condenser and check with a
meter to be sure it is off.
Step 2 - Mix some coil cleaner with water (per
instructions) and pour into a sprayer and saturate the
coils of the condenser. Spray the coils from the outside
only. Coil cleaner can be found for sale on
www.mobilehomerepair.com
Step 3 - Let the coil cleaner soak for 10-15 minutes
while you remove the top part of the condensing
unit with the fan attached. On some units you may
have to remove the whole top. Cover with plastic
bags anything electrical that may get wet.
Step 4 - After 15 minutes, saturate the coils again
from the outside.
Step 5 - Let coil cleaner soak for 5 more minutes.
29-1
Step 6 - With a garden hose inside the
condenser, spray the coils so the water spurts
to the outside. Never spray the coils from the
outside as the water may pack the gunk tighter
into the coils rather than pushing it out.
Step 7 - Repeat until rinse water runs clear
through the coils.
Cleaning the Evaporator (A-coil)
On the inside of your home in the furnace is the evaporator -- also known as the 'air-conditioning
coil' or 'A-coil' because it's shaped normally like an 'A.' The A-coil must be kept clean as air
from the blower must be able to freely flow through it during both the heating and cooling season.
To clean your A-coil, follow these instructions:
Step 1 - Carefully remove the panel to
expose the A-coil. Don't damage any a/c
or gas lines that may be nearby.
29-2
Step 2 - Vacuum the dust from the coils (below).
Stubborn dirt can be loosened with a toilet brush. The
flat-style toilet bowl brush works best because it fits
better along the bottom. Work carefully as the fins on
the A-coil will bend easily.
Step 3 - Spray A-coil cleaner on the coils (below).
Do this step only if it's warm out and you can run
the air conditioner for 30 minutes or more. Before
spraying, put on gloves, goggles and a mask. Open
all windows as the fumes may be strong. Mix the
A-coil cleaner according to the instructions and pour
into a garden sprayer. Spray the coils until
saturated. Note, the coil cleaner available on
www.mobilehomerepair.com comes with its own
sprayer
Step 4 - Put the cover back on and turn on the a/c as
soon as possible. Let the a/c run for at least
20-30 minutes as the condensation must flush the
cleaner from the coil. Do not flush the A-coils with
water. If the coil cleaner isn't removed right away, it
may damage the coils. It may take several cycles to
totally rinse the cleaner from the coils. After the
first long cycle, normal cycles are fine.
A note about coil cleaners. Some cleaners are
designed only for the condenser coils, some
are designed for the evaporator coils, and some are designed for both. The cleaner should also be
high-foaming and non-acid. The coil cleaner available at www.mobilehomerepair.com will
clean both the evaporator and condenser.
29-3
Also, if the smell of the cleaner bothers you, mix a 50/50 solution of water and bleach and spray
it on the coils as well. The bleach will eliminate most, if not all of the smell of the coil cleaner.
Also pouring a 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup of the 50-50 solution in the drain pan will also help the smell,
but is for the drainline and keeps it clean of bacteria, germs and odors. It also helps prevent
clogs.
Swamp Coolers
Swamp coolers are also called evaporative coolers. They generally sit on top of a home and
function by blowing hot dry outside air over wet dripping pads. As the air enters the home, the
water in the dripping pads cool the air. The pads are kept wet with a water pump.
Swamp coolers work
best where the air is hot
and dry like Arizona..
In areas where
humidity is generally
high like Washington
DC or the Dakotas, the
swamp coolers don’t
work as well because
the air is already humid
so the dripping pads are
less effective at
lowering the
temperature of the air.
Swamp coolers are
relative inexpensive to
operate because they
use about ¼ of the
electricity that a
conventional A/C uses. However, the dripping pads will need changed at least annually. If an
area hits a rainy or humid spell, the pads may not properly dry out and start to smell. In that case,
they’ll have to be changed as the smell will drift into the home.
Swamp coolers are also known to eventually leak. Since water is constantly cycling through the
unit, parts may become rusty and begin leaking. Repairs can be frustrating as it may involve
disassembling the unit to find what’s leaking (which is usually the reservoir pan at the bottom).
29-4
QUICK TIPS
For Your Manufactured Home
Chapter 30
_______________________________________________________
Gutter Installation
If your manufactured home already has the small vgutters, full-sized gutters can be installed by simply
slipping them underneath the v-gutters before
attaching. See page 30-7 for another gutter
installation tip.
Sweating Windows & Excess Humidity
The sweat on the windows is caused by INTERIOR moisture in the air condensing on the cold
window pane. Humidity should normally be 30-40% inside a home.
In the older mobile homes that have inside storm windows, those storm windows are typically not
installed tight enough to keep moisture out from in between the pains. Installing some rolled
weather stripping before installing the storm windows may help assuming you get the moisture
out before installation. Opening a window now and then to let the moisture out may help. If
you’re lucky enough to have outside storm windows, the problem of humidity probably isn’t as
great because any moisture which gets in between the glass should pass to the outside.
You can control moisture by include using an exhaust fan when showering and cooking,
occasionally opening a window or screen door or installing roof vents. A dehumidifier may also
help.
Ceiling Spots
If you notice small moisture spots in your ceiling especially along the edges, most likely it’s a
sign of a humidity problem. Moisture is collecting in the attic with no place to go, so it
condenses on the ceiling and runs down to the edge. Attic vents in the roof will help solve this
problem.
Air Conditioning
When choosing an air conditioner to cool your home, bigger is not better. If an air conditioner
runs too little, it won’t have the chance to rid your home of moisture like a longer-running air
conditioner will do.
30-1
Snow Removal
Removing heavy amounts of snow from your roof is
always a good idea. The less weight you have on
your roof the better. A roof rake, like the one shown
in the picture to the left can remove the snow
without you having to set foot on the roof.
Remember, snow is much easier to remove right
after a snow fall than days later when it becomes
hard.
Heat Loss
Ever wonder how you can find heat loss in your
roof? Take a look at your roof on a frosty morning.
Heat loss can be seen by the melted frost area as
circled in the photo to the right.
Hole in Wall
Doorknob punch a hole
in your wall? Quickly
cover the hole by
purchasing a self-stick
door knob bumper.
Viewing Ducts
Need to peak down your heat duct? An easy way to do that
is to remove the floor register, lay a flashlight down inside
the duct, then look around using a make-up mirror.
30-2
Hanging Pictures
Can’t get nails
to stick in those
thin walls. Try
using a thinwall anchor
designed for
walls or
paneling from
1/8” to 1/4?”
inch thick.
Painting Insulated Skirting
Many of you who live in parks may have received
your spring 'to-do' list from the management. Painting
your skirting may be on your list. If you have thermal
insulated skirting that looks like brick, then painting
every other year or so has become a habit.
To paint this type of skirting, you first want to brush
off that flaky white stuff. One effective method of
brushing is to use a car brush attached to a hose. Turn
the water on low and lightly brush. Let it dry then
apply a coat or two of latex paint with a thick nap
roller. (Don't use oil base paint is it may eat the
skirting.)
Floor Squeaks I
If you’ve developed an annoying squeak in your floor, 80% of the time it can be stopped by
simply tightening bolts along the metal I-beam frame underneath your home. The bolts are found
on the lip at the top of the frame and screw into the floor joists (lower left photo). As a helper
walks on the floor, tighten the bolts (lower right) until you no longer hear your helping squeaking
the floor. If this doesn’t work, then the squeak is probably coming from the subfloor rubbing
against the floor joist. If you can pull the floor covering back, drive screws through the subfloor
into the joists. If pulling back the floor covering is not an option, see Floor Squeaks II.
30-3
Floor Squeaks II
If you’ve tried the ideas in ‘Floor Squeaks I’ without avail, then your next step in stopping a
squeaking floor is to use a product called ‘Squeak Ender.’ To install Squeak Ender, crawl under
your home open up the underbelly in the area of the squeak and install as shown below. If you
are unable to locate this product, squirting construction adhesive where the floor joist meets the
subfloor or carefully driving a screw at an angle through the floor joist into the subfloor.
Dead Electrical Outlet
Have you discovered an outside outlet that don’t work, or
maybe it’s the outlet your heat tape is plugged into, or one in
your bathroom? First check your electrical panel for any
tripped breakers. If none found, then look at all the outlets in
your kitchen and bathroom and any other wet areas. You will
find some outlets with two little buttons in the middle,
normally red and black. Be sure those buttons are pushed in.
Those type of outlets are called GFCI outlets and are designed
to trip when moisture is sensed. One GFCI outlet may have
several other outlets leading from it, any which could cause it
to trip.
.
30-4
Tightening Up a Loose Electrical Box
When you plug something in and pull it back out, does
it feel like the whole outlet box is going to come with
you? Most likely the outlet boxes are loose because the
thin ¼” sheetrock has cracked or broken away. Here's
how to snug-up those outlet boxes for good.
Your box may look a bit different than this box, but
most of them are wired about the same. First, shut off
the electricity and remove the cover. The cover will
either unscrew or just snap off. Then completely loosen
the box from the wall by unscrewing the top right and
bottom left screws. Only turn these screws about 5 to 6
turns.
Carefully pull the outlet box out of the wall. You
should not have to disconnect any wiring unless there is
not enough extra length in the wire to pull the box out.
Notice the little blue tab on the upper right. This is a
built-in clamp that holds the box to the wall when the
screw is tightened. You also have a clamp on the lower
left. The sheetrock has probably broken away from this
tab, so it has nothing to grab therefore making the box
loose. Continue reversing the screw until the tab is
situated at the very back of the screw. Do not unscrew
it so much that the tab falls off.
30-5
The trick to fixing the outlet is to put some support pieces
behind the wall for the clamp on the outlet to snug-up too.
Wooden shims work good for support pieces. Notice the
layout of the shims in the picture. This is the layout you want,
but the shims will be behind the wall.
Stick the shims thru the opening and position on the top and
bottom edges of the opening. To make them stay until you can
get the electrical box repositioned and tightened, tape the
bottom shim in place. The top shim is a bit more tricky. One
trick is to put a dab of caulk on each end of the shim and stick
it up in place. If your electrical box has several wires coming
in and out, you may have to disconnect some of the wiring to
get the shims in place. How you disconnect the wires depends
upon which type of electrical connection you have. For each
wire, you’ll either have to loosen a screw or press a tab with a
tiny screwdriver to release the wire.
Once the shims are in place, carefully put the electrical box
back into the wall. Using a screwdriver, tighten the clamps
back up, snugging them up against the shims. Be careful not
to overtighten or the sheetrock may break or crack.
Once snug and tight, screw or snap the cover back on. Notice
on this picture that you can still see where the sheetrock was
broken. To hide this, purchase an oversize outlet cover.
30-6
Cleaning Up Mildew
If you’ve encountered mold, here’s a solution for cleaning it up. Mix 1 part bleach to 3 parts
water. Then add ¼ cup of dishwashing liquid. The bleach does the killing, the water acts as a
carrier and the dishwashing liquid helps increase its effectiveness when the surface is wetted.
Spray the surface generously and allow it to sit/soak for 15 minutes. Then with the same
solution, scrub the surface with a stiff brush. Rinse with plain water and let dry.
If this is a surface you intend on painting, don’t use oil-based paints as they are most vulnerable
to mildew. Instead use latex and be sure the paint contains mildewcide. You can buy mildewcide
and add it to the paint, but if not mixed properly the performance of the paint can be hindered.
Hanging Gutters
An easy way to hang a gutter is to use the clips pictured below. Set the clips in place then lift the
gutter up into position. Check the slope of the gutter with a level and screw in place.
30-7
30-8
INDEX
_______________________________________________________
A-Coil 28-12, 28-13, 29-1, 29-2, 29-3
Additions 21-9, 26-1, 26-2, 26-3, 26-4, 26-5, 26-6
Air Conditioning 29,1 29-2, 29-3, 30-1
Air Duct 28-12
Air Duct Booster 5-2
Airflow Through Ductwork 5-2, 30-2
Air Mixers 27-7
Anchors 21-3, 21-9, 25-1, 25-2, 25-3
Anode Rod 15-5
Anticipator 28-3, 28-4
Balancers 28-9
Basements 22-1, 22-2, 22-3, 22-4, 22-5, 22-6
Bathroom Remodel 16-1, 16-2, 16-3, 16-4, 16-5, 16-6, 16-7, 16-8, 16-9, 16-10
Bathtub Removal 16-1, 16-2
Bay Window 7-3, 7-4
Belly Repair 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4
Belly Repair Tape 1-2
Bleach 30-7
Blend-Air 28-3
Blocking 7-8, 21-10, 21-11
Blocking Diagram 21-3, 21-4, 21-8, 21-10, 21-13, 23-1
Block Skirting 24-1, 24-2, 24-3
Blower 28-2, 28-7, 28-8, 28-9, 28-10, 28-11, 28-12, 28-14
Blowing Out Waterlines 20-2, 20-4
Burner 28-6, 28-10, 28-11, 28-12
Carbon Monoxide 28-12
Capacitor 28-7, 28-8, 28-10
Carports 26-2
Ceiling Fan 12-1
Ceiling Fan Bar 12-1
Ceilings 9-1, 9-2, 9-3, 9,4 30-1
Centrifugal Switch 28-2, 28-6
Chimney 28-14
Circuit Panel 28-6, 28-10
Codes 14-4, 26-3, 26-4
Coil Cleaner 29-1, 29-2, 29-3, 29-4
Combustion Air Blower 28-2, 28-6, 28-14
Condenser Coil 29-1, 29-2
Continuity Check 28-14
Copper Waterlines 13-4
Corrugated Metal Roof 11-1, 11-2, 11-3, 11-4, 11-5, 11-6, 11-7, 11-8, 11-9
Cracked Heat Exchanger 28-12
Crimping 13-4, 14-2, 14-4, 14-5
Critter Removal 2-1, 2-2
I
Cross-Over Duct 5-1, 5-2
Dead Animal Removal 2-1, 2-2
Dead Outlets 30-4
Decks 26-2
Diagnostic Code of Furnace 28-3, 28-6
Doors 7-7, 7-8, 7-9, 7-10
Draining Water Heater 15-2, 20-1
Drain Pipes 16-7, 16-8, 16-10, 20-3, 22-3
Dripping Faucet 19-2
Dripping Pads 29-4
Duct Booster 5-2
Ducts 30-2
Elastomeric Roof Coating 10-2
Electric Furnace 28-14
Electric Water Heater 15-2, 15-3
Electrical Boxes 30-5, 30-6
Electrical Wires 21-9
Electronic Ignition 28-4, 28-5
Electronic Spark 28-5
EPDM Rubber Roof 10-3
Evaporater Coil 29-1, 29-2, 29-3
Evaporative Cooler 29-4
Exterior Faucet 13-2, 13-3
Fan 12-1, 27-5, 27-7
Fan Switch 28-10, 28-11
Faucet 13-3, 19-2
Filter 28-13, 28-14
Flashing 11-6, 26-4, 26-5
Flashing Light 28-3
Flexible Gas Line 15-4
Flexmend Belly Repair Tape 1-2
Floor Repair 3-1, 3-2, 3-3, 3-4, 3-5, 3-6, 7-8, 16-3, 16-4, 16-5, 16-6
Floor Registers 3-1
Floor Squeaks 30-3, 30-4
Flu 28-14
Foam Filter 28-13
Footings 21-2, 23-1, 23-2, 23-3, 24-1, 26-2, 26-3
Furnace Troubleshooting 28-1 thru 28-14
Frostline 21-2, 26-2
Frozen Main Waterline 17-1, 17-2, 17-3, 17-4, 17-5, 19-1
Frozen Sewer Line 19-2, 19-3
Furnace Duct 5-2
Furnace Filter 28-13, 28-14
Fuse 28-11, 28-14
Gas Furnace Flow Chart 28-2
Gas Lines 15-4, 21-8
Gas Valve 28-2, 28-4, 28-5, 28-14
II
Gas Water Heater 15-1, 15-2, 15-3
Glass Replacement in Window 7-5, 7-6, 7-7
Gloss-Off 6-1
Glow Plugs 28-5
Go/No-Go Gauge 14-5
Gray Polybutylene Waterlines 13-4, 14-1, 14-2, 14-3
Gutter 8-2, 8-3, 30-1, 30-7
Gutter Hangers 30-7
Hanging Pictures 30-3
Hardboard Siding 8-1
Heat Ducts 30-2
Heat Exchanger 28-10, 28-12, 28-13
Heated floor 22-3, 22-6
Heater 19-3
Heating Elements 28-14
Heat Loss 30-2
Heat Tape 17-1, 17-2, 17-3, 17-4, 17-5
Hole in Wall 30-2
Hot Water 15-3
HUD 14-4, 25-2
Humidity 30-1
Ignition Control 28-6
Ignitor 28-6
Induced Draft Motor 28-2, 28-6
Insulated Skirting 24-13, 24-14, 24-15, 30-3
Insulation 11-2, 11-3, 13-5, 22-5
Interior Door Adjustment 7-9
Jacking 21-9, 21-10, 21-11
Jack Stand 21-3
Laminated Flooring 4-1, 4-2, 4-3, 4-4
Limit Switches 28-2, 28-7, 28-10
Load Bearing Walls 6-2
Lower Limit Switch 28-10
Main Water Shut-Off 13-1, 13-2
Metal Siding 8-1, 8-2
Metal Roof, New 11-1, 11-2, 11-3, 11-4, 11-5, 11-6, 11-7, 11-8, 11-9
Metal Roof Maintenance 10-1, 10-2, 10-3
Metal Roof Rattle 10-2
Metal Skirting 24-10, 24-11, 24-12
Mildew Clean-Up 30-7
Neoprene 10-1
Nibco Heater 19-3
Oiling Furnace 28-7
Outdoor Faucet 13-1, 13-2
III
Outlet Box 27-6, 30-5, 30-6
Outlets 30-4, 30-5, 30-6
Outriggers 1-3
Overhang, Roof 11-8, 11-9
Painting Insulated Skirting 30-3
Paneled Ceilings 9-4
Paneled Walls 6-1, 6-2
Partical Board Floors 16-3
Periscope 2-1, 2-2
Pex 13-3, 13-4, 14-1, 14-2, 14-3, 14-4, 14-5
Piers 21-2, 23-1, 23-2, 26-2, 26-3
Pilot Light 28-4
Pitched Roof 11-7
Polybutylene Waterlines 13-4, 14-1, 14-2, 14-3
Polyethylene Underbelly 1-2
Polyvinyl Roof 10-3
Pop-Up Tub Drain 16-8, 16-9
Purge 28-2, 28-6
Plywood Floors 16-3, 16-4, 16-5
Punch 24-8
Pressure Relief Valve 15-2
Releveling 21-1 thru 21-13
Ridge Cap 11-7
Rock Skirting 24-4, 24-5, 24-6
Rodent Removal 2-1, 2-2
Roof Coating 10-2
Roof Rattle 10-2
Roofs 10-1, 10-2, 10-3, 30-2
Roof Vents 11-5, 11-6
Rotten Floor Repair 3-1, 3-2, 3-3, 3-4, 3-5, 3-6, 7-8
Rubber Roof 10-3
Rumble Buttons 10-2
RV Antifreeze 20-3
Sagging Sealing 9-1, 9-2
Sealing an Addition 26-4, 26-5, 26-6
Sealing Roof 10-1, 26-4, 26-5
Seam Strips 6-1
Sequencer 28-14
Sewer Pipes 16-5, 16-6, 16-8, 19-2, 19-3, 21-8, 22-3, 22-6
Shaking Floor 18-1, 18-2, 18-3
Sheathing Under Siding 8-2
Sheetrock Ceiling 9-2, 9-3
Shims 21-2
Siding 8-1, 8-2, 8-3
Site Preparation 22-1, 22-2, 23-1, 23-2, 23-3
Shut-off Valves 13-1, 13-3, 13-4
Skirting 21-9, 24-1 thru 24-16
Skirting Access Door 24-15, 24-16
IV
Skirting Vents 24-12, 24-15
Smelly air from register 29-4
Smelly Hot Water 15-4, 15-5
Snail Shell 28-9
Snow Removal 30-2
Soffits 11-8, 11-9
Solar Heating Panel 27-1, 27-2, 27-3, 27-4, 27-5, 27-6, 27-7, 27-8
Squeaking Floors 30-3, 30-4
Squirrel Cage 28-7
Stabilizer Plate 25-3
Stairway 22-5
Steps 26-2
Storm Door 7-7
Suction Cups 7-5, 7-6
Suspended Ceiling 9-1
Swamp Cooler 29-4
Sweating Windows 30-1
Temperature Switches 28-10, 28-11
Textured Ceiling 9-2
Texturing Paneled Walls 6-1, 6-2
Thawing Sewer & Waterlines 19-1, 19-2, 19-3
Thermocouple 28-2, 28-4, 28-5
Thermal Skirting 24-13, 24-14, 24-15, 30-3
Thermostat 28-3, 28-4, 28-7, 28-10, 28-11
Toilet Flange 16-5, 16-7, 16-8
Toilets 16-2, 20-3
Transformer 28-5, 28-10
Trim Board 7-1
Tub Drain 16-8, 16-9, 16-10
Tub Installation 16-6, 16-7
Tub Surround 16-7
Underbelly Repair 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4
Upper Limit Switch 28-10
Vent, Roof 11-5, 11-6
Vibrating Floor 18-1, 18-2, 18-3
Viewing Hole 28-12
Vinyl Flooring 16-6
Vinyl Window 7-1, 7-5
Vinyl Rock Skirting 24-4, 24-5, 24-6
Vinyl Siding 8-1, 8-2, 8-3
Vinyl Skirting 24-7, 24-8, 24-9, 24-10
Walls 6-1, 6-2, 30-2
Walls, Load Bearing 6-2
Wall Seams 6-1
Washing Machine Vibrations 18-1, 18-2, 18-3
Waterline Blow-Out Adapter 20-2, 20-4
Waterline Level 21-3, 21-4, 21-5, 21-6, 21-7
V
Waterlines 13-2, 13-3, 13-4, 14-1, 14-2, 14-3, 14-4, 14-5, 15-2, 21-8
Water Heater 15-1, 15-2, 15-3, 15-4, 15-5, 20-1
Water Heater Door 7-10
Water Shut-Off Valves 13-1, 13-3, 13-4
Wax Ring 16-7, 16-8
Wind Rods 24-8
Windows 7-1, 7-2, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 7-6. 7-7, 22-4, 30-1
Winterizing Drain and Waterlines 20-1, 20-2, 20-3
Wooden Basement 22-1, 22-2, 22-3, 22-4, 22-5
VI