TOPO SOLITARIO CRAFTS’ CHICHARRA UTILITY HOPPER 3D PRINTING & BUILDING MANUAL First of all, we really want to thank you for your support on our first Kickstarter Campaign. You surpassed our expectations with an awesome accomplishment of 463% of our goal. We thought that our fifth stretch goal will be the end (best case scenario) of the campaign, but you raised the expectations far above and beyond and we had to add another two goals for you. What really surprised us was the distribution between pledge levels. We thought that Warbird level would be the one most of you will choose, but most of you went for the full level instead: Civilian Pilot: 1 supporter Warbird: 18 supporters Full Set: 115 supporters Nothing else to say but THANK YOU! Now, let’s get down to business! This manual is about printing and building for the parts included in Civilian Pilot and Warbird level pledges. It covers the first release for all supporters (May 2018), including: Chicharra civilian version (for all supporters) Stretch goal 1 (for all supporters) Stretch goal 2 (for all supporters) Chicharra Warbird version (for Warbird and Full Set supporters) Later (June 2018) we will release the rest of the models, that is, other stretch goals for Warbird and Full Set, and all the scenery for Full Set. This manual will have directions for proper printing, but 3D print settings, speeds, layer height, raft and supports differ from one printer to another (even if it is the same model), so this manual will have hints but not detailed settings. All testing has been made using the Fabrikator Mini v2 printer, a very low end FDM machine (150-200€), so all things will probably go much better on your machines out there These are the parts needed to create the Civilian version of the Chicharra. Labels are the names of the STL files for faster reference: These are the additional parts for the Warbird version of the Chicharra, Labels are the names of the STL files for faster reference. Note that you’ll need the following parts from the Civilian version: HULL BACK.STL LEG FRONT RIGTH.STL, LEG FRONT LEFT.STL, LEG REAR RIGTH.STL, LEG REAR LEFT.STL RIGHT NACELLE.STL, LEFT NACELLE.STL THRUSTERS RIGHT.STL, THRUSTERS LEFT.STL At the previous part listing you can see the suggested printing orientations for the parts. This orientation focuses in using FDM printers, having a nice and flat part below that will be obscured either because it is glued to another part of the model or because it lays flat below the model where it is not noticed. Supports and raft No part needs supports, but as we will describe later, some parts can be tricky if your printer doesn’t work fine with overhangs. We tried to avoid overhangs over 45 degrees (the famous 45 deg. rule) but even at 45 degrees some printers may need supports. Our tests were made using hotbed printers so no rafts were used, raft mostly depends on printer characteristics. Specific piece settings On next pages it is described every single part detailing the most tricky zones, and some advice after printing tests. We will focus on Overhangs and printing Speed along with some other comments. Do you need something else? Your machine may support more complex settings. So we are including complete joined parts that don’t need gluing. We will not include hollowed parts (for SLA printing) but there are plenty of resources online to deal with it. If you have any other request, just ask: toposolitariocrafts@gmail.com CIVILIAN HULL FRONT.STL Printing settings: Medium speed, it will take a long time to print but it is the most important part of the model Tricky parts: It has a big overhang (about 43 degrees) but it can turn into weird results if you print too fast as rounded corners can wrap up during printing Comments: Bottom is partially hollowed to allow a better base release after printing without losing adherence HULL BACK.STL Printing settings: Medium speed, it will take a long time to print but it is the second most important part of the model Tricky parts: This one should print like a charm, I recommend to go first for this one as it is less risky than the hull front Comments: Bottom is partially hollowed to allow a better base release after printing without losing adherence XX NACELLE.STL Printing settings: Medium to slow speed is highly recommended Tricky parts: There is a overhang down there that can be tricky, in the end piece will print well, but watch for temp and speed settings. The air intake to the left could look weird too if layers start to wrap a bit Comments: Nacelle shaft will print pretty well, even if you get some wrapping or an uneven surface, the shaft hole has enough tolerance to work properly. Later I will explain the option I like most to work with that tolerance in your benefit THRUSTERS XX.STL Printing settings: Medium to slow speed is highly recommended Tricky parts: Engine burners are spiky and detailed, so even if all the piece prints well, getting the desired detail level is something you will have to tweak during slicing Comments: Printing at 0.1mm layer height is good, but if your printer can go thinner it is worthy to give it a try LEG XX XX.STL Printing settings: Medium speed is ok Tricky parts: There are no tricky parts here Comments: The junction with the hull may be a little blurry. I’ve included a special “omni-bot” to help gluing the legs properly (explained later) WARBIRD HULL FRONT.STL Printing settings: Medium speed, it will take a long time to print but it is the most important part of the model Tricky parts: Just like the civilian model, the gas tanks on sides has a big overhang to deal with Comments: Bottom is partially hollowed to allow a better base release after printing without losing adherence SENSOR POD.STL Printing settings: It is pretty small, so go for a slow speed Tricky parts: You want the lenses to be sharp, reduce layer height and speed for better results Comments: Nothing else to say LAUNCHER XX XX.STL Printing settings: They’re pretty small parts, so go for a slow speed Tricky parts: It will print pretty well Comments: Nothing else to say RAILGUN XX.STL Printing settings: Layers are really small as barrel goes up, so you better go slow with this one Tricky parts: Base (where gun attaches to hardpoints) is a bit small so take care when removing this piece from the bed Comments: You’ll notice that it prints like Pisa tower, that’s because how the gun attaches to the hardpoints on the craft RAILGUN MAGAZINE XX.STL Printing settings: It is advised to go slow for this one too, the ammo feeding links, near the base, go into a really steep overhang. As the piece is really small it prints pretty well, but don’t go fast on this one. Tricky parts: I found that oozing may appear between feeding chain and the main body even if your printer doesn’t ooze much Comments: My printer did the job with not much degradation on the lower feeding links, you can see the printed and painted pieces, but yet this is probably the only piece that may need some support if things go south. Model is easily assembled using a power glue adequate for the printing material you’re using. I’m getting great results in PLA with super-glue (preferably a good brand instead of cheaper anonymous ones). During the painting process of the showcase model at Led&Minis, they needed to take apart the already glued front legs, and instead of breaking the bond or the leg piece itself, it was the leg support part from the hull the one that got broken. That can give you an idea about how hard the glue works. STEP 1 – The Hull Glue front hull and back. Pieces should fit perfectly, there are no hole or protuberance to align them properly because they’re not really needed. Union between front and back has a small crevasse on the top shield to help on hiding the union. STEP 2 – The Legs Gluing the legs is the most tricky part of all the steps, so you have to take care about them. It is important to glue them all in the right position and angle. To help gluing them, there is a “Taxi Omni-bot” included to keep the hull at the right height above the ground prior gluing the legs. That little omni-bot is used to move around parked Chicharras to the launch pads and vice versa, and is perfect to help with the leg positioning. Remember that the omni-bot just lies down there, you don’t have to glue it to the hull. Then you can glue the legs one at a time and let them dry properly. Don’t rush this step. STEP 3 – Engine nacelles Engine nacelles are pretty easy to get together too, but you must take care of gluing the left and right burners on the proper (left or right) nacelle. Gluing surface is pretty massive, so once you glue them, it is very unlikely you will be able to take them out; it is important to glue them right on the first attempt. STEP 4 – Adjusting nacelle rod tolerance Nacelle rods to keep them joined to the hull have a BIG tolerance (about 0,25mm less diameter that the hole), that’s because depending on the printer they can be too tight to be able to insert them. So the best procedure to build them is to use a little piece of tape on the rod to keep the nacelle in position and have good resistance to rotation. Using a small 2cm piece of transparent tape is just enough. I tried using blue painters tape and it works too but it tends to wear and tear quickly. Using this method, you’ll notice that nacelle keeps perfectly well into position, allowing a nice and soft rotation with not undesired changes in position. This is the final step on the Civilian Chicharra, next steps apply for the Warbird version. STEP 5 – Sensor pod If you were building the Warbird version, you should be using the Warbird front hull instead. After gluing the legs you have to install the Sensor Pod. STEP 6 – Rocket pods Rocket pods are printed in two pieces (if your printer allows better supports, there is a complete rocket pod piece included). First you have to build them together. Depending on which rocket pods are you going to install (left, right or both) maybe you don’t have to print them all. Now you have to put them below the side fuel tanks. Gluing position is not fixed so you can adjust to your preferences. Ideally they should align with the hardpoints below. STEP 7 – Gun Pods The huge rail-guns are printed in two pieces (if your printer allows better supports, there is a complete rail gun piece included). First you have to build them together. It may be a little tricky to align the gun properly, make sure to not mix left and right parts. Now you have to put them front and below the side fuel tanks. The gun pods are fixed to the hardpoints in front of the fuel tanks and below the fuel tanks (to keep proper alignment and control recoil). It is easy to keep them in the right position. And this is the final step of the Warbird version, now it is time to go for another printing and building a “gunslinger” version with two rail-guns, or maybe a heavy support one full of rockets. Color Schemes is something pretty personal, and they should adapt to your own armies or gaming board themes. But there are some details that we can suggest to enhance the color patterns you’re looking for. Shaded belly: even if in present days, a shaded belly color schemes are abandoned, this is something that will look great in the model. Top and bottom parts are very distinct so it is easy to paint the belly on a lighter color or something closer to sky blue/gray. It will not help much about camouflage but looks cooler. Top Shield camouflage: For the top shield (the thicker part that goes all along the hull upper plate) you have plenty of space to decorate with painting camouflage patterns or working out some kind of graffiti (a quick search on Elyseum movie ships will turn out with lots of great ideas and schemes). For the display model on the campaign Led&Minis went for a pre-cut painting hex patterns that worked amazingly well. Decals are VERY important: As you can see in the photos or at the suggested schemas, decals are very important and makes the difference between a good model and a great model. You don’t have to spend hours on them, just profile them to be good to see on distance. The best ones you can apply are the yellow rescue pointers (which mark the spot for hidden panels to help on a emergency extraction of the crew), the inverted red triangles (which marks exhaust ports and thrusters), and the red chevron (that marks the air intakes of the engines). Keep it coherent: If you paint the top shield and the thicker part of the legs using the same schema, it will look much much better. Make some art on the nose: Even if the painted model used during campaign has no nose art, if you’re using the Warbird version, you have plenty of space to paint your own designs, a shark jaws, a luchador, a baby shark or the pinup you like most… that is the place to paint it! Take into account engine rotation: If you are using different colors for the belly, or if you’re painting stripes all along the hull… take into account that engines can rotate. I found out that painting them in the way you can see at the suggested schemas works pretty nice. If you are low on ideas, go to a color scheme generating tool!: places like coolors.co are great for some quick inspiration, sometimes exploring random color sets took you to new ideas and different approaches. Don’t underrate exploring new options! These are some color schemes you can use as inspiration. The first one was the color suggested to Led&Minis for the campaign painted model you can find at the first page of this manual. Results were amazing!
